Fuel Gauge

[jacwjames]

1 hour ago, Just Jim said:

So... did you change your fuel gauge out?  I contacted Holley previously and they told me that my analog gauge would not work with their sender.  

  I don't understand this part, Jim.  Is this an either/or type of thing?  Just use the PVC to calibrate it or do you have to do both?

Thanks,

It worked with my gauge and in the video they show how to set it up with an analog (I think, sure looks like one) and digital type but you have to use a jumper wire with the digital display.   When I was done I could use differnt lengths of PVC pipe to represent depth of fuel from sender and it worked. 

The first thing you have to do is set up the sender, it gives two methods to do this, one is to use the P1 button and then the P2 then P3 buttons.  I wasn't that it work so I reverted to the voltage method whey you adjust the voltage so the gauge reports when the there is fuel in thank.  Three different voltage (2.99, 1.66, .69 from memory) I hooked my volt meter to the ground & sender terminal and then adjust the voltage up and down as you use the P1 button to scroll through Empty, half full, and full levels.  

You then have to program the sender to the depths you want.  In the video they set up a table, mark lines for empty and full, then use the P1 button to scroll through the LED light to the correct flashing color, >> say Blue, you then hold the sender so it is pointing at the a box representing the bottom of the tank, hold for ~10 seconds and then press the programming button again and the LED light flashes 3 times meaning it accepted the programming you were doing.  The suggest doing this using the fast respond dip switch settings.  This is awkward and since I could go look at the gauge on the dash I never knew what it was doing so I didn't have confidence 

So I came up with the concept of using the PVC pipe, and leaving the sender set at the slow response.  I could watch the fuel gauge slowly move to Empty, then full, then marks in between as I used the different lengths pipe.   I wasn't in a hurry and did other things while the dash gauge slowly moved. 

Disclaimer, my tank is full, I have not driven and no immediate plans to do so, but using the PVC pipe system gives me confidence the programming is right but won't know for sure until I drive enough to empty tank. 

Edited July 18 by jacwjames

[jacwjames]

Attached are the installation instructions, not the easiest to follow but watching the video and comparing to the instructions helped.   The important part is that you can press the P1 button until you get to the correct LED color flash sequence. 

I did try to standard and automatic calibration, so not sure if it accepted both,  The voltages I listed were wrong (memory ain't what it use to be). 

Instead of using a box and having to physically hold/move the sender I used pieces of PVC of pipe stacked so I could just put the sender on top and walk away. 

Holley sender installatoin instructions.pdf

[Bobkat11208]

Mine's due in Saturday.  Quick question @jacwjames Seeing 'push 2 or 3' for settings.  Were they like 2='up' and 3='down' (or vice versa)?  Not seeing that explained in the video or I just missed it.

[jacwjames]

P1 is a mode button, this changes what you are trying to program, the LED light changes from Green to another color and if the sender recognizes the programming it flashes red three times and then changes to either a green or blue light depending what you are doing. 

P2  &  P3 are used to program the gauge, (from memory) P2 lowers voltage and P3 raises it. 

There are 2 small (I mean small, I used a tooth pick to change them) that you use to change the speed of the response of the gauge.  It recommends using a fast response while programming and change it back to slow when you install it in the tank.  The second time I programmed the sender I just left it in slow mode.  

[Bobkat11208]

Welp.  Received my Easy Level and installed.Send did NOT touch any other stud (I had it taped up until ready for install.  Ring terminals cleaned. Verified 12v with key On.  First tried Std Calibration.  NO LED showed at all.  Tried, per above, pressing P1 multiple times thinking it would turn on the LED.  Zip, Zilch, Nada.  

Then disconnected SEND and tried "Classic instrument" Calibration.  Meter read ~10.65v and pressing P2/P3 caused meter to bounce around but only settled back at 10.65v.

Verified my replacement gauge is 240-33 ohm.  But I Think the root cause is unit is bad as I am not getting any LED of any kind.

Any thoughts? 

[jacwjames]

26 minutes ago, Bobkat11208 said:

Welp.  Received my Easy Level and installed.Send did NOT touch any other stud (I had it taped up until ready for install.  Ring terminals cleaned. Verified 12v with key On.  First tried Std Calibration.  NO LED showed at all.  Tried, per above, pressing P1 multiple times thinking it would turn on the LED.  Zip, Zilch, Nada.  

Then disconnected SEND and tried "Classic instrument" Calibration.  Meter read ~10.65v and pressing P2/P3 caused meter to bounce around but only settled back at 10.65v.

Verified my replacement gauge is 240-33 ohm.  But I Think the root cause is unit is bad as I am not getting any LED of any kind.

Any thoughts? 

Give them a call to see what they say,

If the LED does not light up it can't be calibrated was you need this to know what mode you are in. 

[Bobkat11208]

Welp-Part 2:  Called Holley Tech Support.  After describing my install, he believes that it probably was a return to Amazon (where I purchased it) and No LED-No Work.  He did say that, if a return, people were constantly causing a 'short' of the control board when attaching the Send Gauge connection (touching either the + or - stud with the Gauge wire or another part of the coach/tank/etc.), then they return it.   Holley actually has redesigned it because of that reason.  Amazon then sends it out to the next customer.  He asked me to write BAD on the box so the cycle doesn't continue.

Just FYI, the new part number is 19-250-1 and comes with sheathed wires.  Here is a link to the revised install instructions.  https://documents.holley.com/199r12481-1.pdf

I have a new one on its way and will return the current/'old' one to Amazon.  Appreciate the advice!

Edited July 23 by Bobkat11208

[Tom Cherry]

34 minutes ago, Bobkat11208 said:

Welp-Part 2:  Called Holley Tech Support.  After describing my install, he believes that it probably was a return to Amazon (where I purchased it) and No LED-No Work.  He did say that, if a return, people were constantly causing a 'short' of the control board when attaching the Send Gauge connection (touching either the + or - stud with the Gauge wire or another part of the coach/tank/etc.), then they return it.   Holley actually has redesigned it because of that reason.  Amazon then sends it out to the next customer.  He asked me to write BAD on the box so the cycle doesn't continue.

Just FYI, the new part number is 19-250-1 and comes with sheathed wires.  Here is a link to the revised install instructions.  https://documents.holley.com/199r12481-1.pdf

I have a new one on its way and will return the current/'old' one to Amazon.  Appreciate the advice!

Amazon does NOT, I've been told or personally experienced....do ANY INCOMING inspection. If the box looks like it has been opened and it is OBVIOUS.. I test.  BAD...I return.  BUT, I write ALL OVER the PROUDCT or put a big piece of tape (White DUCT...I'm MEAN) on the part and write, with a Sharpie.  BAD...Was USED...NOT NEW.

I don't get an flack...nor an commendations..  BTW, If you talk to any UPS store manager...over 75% and it is growing, of their "scans" go to AMAZON...  He said they don't get paid enough...but it sure helps cover expenses...he quipped... Like my Gramma's Butter and Egg money.

PITY...that you did all this. Holley was my main competitor for Carburetors. BUT, I attended a LOT of FORD required supplier conferences.  Holley was there.  We got along great...drank a lot and came away as friends...with certain loyalities...and we traded info on some NO PROPRIETARY manufacturing issues as we all were casting the parts and machining them and assembling and testing...

[Bobkat11208]

Just wanted to update on the Easy Level LIDAR sender.  Got it installed, calibrated to both the Gauge and the tank (although I did not use @jacwjames PVC method; instead used the method in the videos and instructions).  Bottom line:  It worked and was basically pretty darn accurate.  Using our historical MPG, calculated we should need between 65-70 gals of fuel while the Gauge read just above 3/4.  Actual fill was 68 gals.  To confirm, filled when the gauge was at 1/4 empty and 1/2 empty and always within 3-5 gals.  While I installed an after market 240-33 ohm gauge, I might, when I get a flat spot in the road, re-hook up the original dash gauge and see how it works although it is not a priority and I am pretty happy not having to deal with the Centroid anymore.

We have a 100 gal fuel tank.

Next up is installing the BlueFire 'glass dash'

Edited August 21 by Bobkat11208
Added tank size, BlueFire..

[cbr046]

1 hour ago, Bobkat11208 said:

Next up is installing the BlueFire 'glass dash'

Keep us posted.  I'm particularly interested what size how the tablet is physically attached.  Me, Myself and Irene (personally) would consider a used tablet. 

It's something I need to do, and I let that VMSpc get away that was on iRV2.  Bluefire would be the next best thing, but ANYTHING is better than the gauges you can't rely on.

- bob

[Bobkat11208]

Will do.  Planning on (and verified with BlueFire) using my 9" iPad Gen 6.  I reached out to them, gave them the specifics of what ECM connection, what computer I planned on using and they came back (on a Saturday no less!) with actual links to what 6 to 9 connector and where to order as well as what BF unit I would need from them.  All I had to do was find/order the mount from Amazon.  I ordered this Mount as I want to be able to actually hard mount it rather than relying on a suction mount.  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CL6KDQ4Q?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Everything should be here in the next couple of days.  Also, full transparency, I'm using @Scotty Hutto file as my template as we are close corporate-twin wise.  

2X on the gauges!  Even using my current Scangauge-D shows me the existing gauges are not accurate.

Edited August 21 by Bobkat11208
Added shout out

[Bobkat11208]

I promised an update:  completed the BlueFIre update/install and using the dash file (Modified a bit) from @Scotty Hutto, I now have a "Glass Dash" using my 6th Gen iPad.  Used it on a recent trip and cannot begin to relay how much I like it.  Since all the info is directly off the ECM, the data is "actual" rather than interpreted through a set of 20 year old analog gauge(s).  And, yes I get transmission temps.  Between the 12v Amish fridge upgrade, Easy Level fuel sender mod, installing a Victron system, and the BlueFire, it has removed at least one source of "Gee I hope everything is OK" rolling down the road and boondocking-lol.  And a big thanks to all on this forum who advised and or guided in all those upgrades!

One thing I did that is a bit different is I found I could use the existing 6-9 adapter/connector from my ScanGauge-D rather than the BF recommended 6-9 cable that I purchased.  That allows the connector to be firmly attached to the ECM rather than dangling down on the left side of the steering column under the dash or having to be mounted to the dash area.  For those that are replacing the SG with a BF setup, highly recommend doing this.  I verified the about 5-6" long 6-9 cable I did buy can be used with the SG as a replacement (plus, if you don't buy the recommended 6-9 connector it will save you about $50 not having to buy it via eBay or Amazon).