Rewiring Generator to Chassis battery bank

[96 EVO]

17 minutes ago, dandick66 said:

I think I need to better explain what I have and what I want to do.  My generator is connected to the RRB bus (chassis batteries) with a 2/0 cable.  There is another 2/0 cable running from that bus to the FRB.  I was thinking of running a new 2/0 cable from that stud on the FRB to the generator.  I would then have 2, 2/0 cables running from the RRB chassis bus.  The banks would not be connected unless I pushed the boost switch.  

Got it!

Thought you were planning on using house batteries from the rear, and chassis bank from the front.

 

May help, what you are considering.

[Tom Cherry]

21 minutes ago, dandick66 said:

I think I need to better explain what I have and what I want to do.  My generator is connected to the RRB bus (chassis batteries) with a 2/0 cable.  There is another 2/0 cable running from that bus to the FRB.  I was thinking of running a new 2/0 cable from that stud on the FRB to the generator.  I would then have 2, 2/0 cables running from the RRB chassis bus.  The banks would not be connected unless I pushed the boost switch.  

For background, the cable running to the generator is 2/0.  It was set up to start from the house batteries.  I moved the cable to the chassis batteries and saw no difference in the starting.  Tom mentioned about running a cable from the 4/0 FRB stud.  However, my coach has a 2/0 running from the chassis batteries to the FRB and a 2 gauge (not 2/0) running from the house batteries to the FRB.

I considered adding another battery just for starting the generator, then I came up with this thought.  What if I ran a 2/0 cable from the 2/0 stud on the FRB to the generator?  Then I would have 2, 2/0 cables forstarting the generator.  It would be cheaper and less maintenance than adding a separate starting battery. 

OK, like Ben posted, you could try that.  But, since you have a 2/0 and had problems after swapping from House to Chassis, my gut, plus my experiences say….FIND THE PROBLEM. Swapping the Positive from a deep cycle to a cranking should have made, IMHO,  a noticeable difference. 

The tried and proven method, which many here use and others find “cumbersome” is this….You need to measure the voltage drop, or lack thereof, from the first point….then at every connection or across every cable. Thus, get a spool of #14 stranded hookup wire.  You will need some alligator clip leads or make up one.

Use either battery. Assuming you have 50A, use the house.  Clip the hookup wire to the positive on the battery.  Run the other end and clip to the Negative VOM lead. Now, put your Positive lead on the stud where the positive 4/0 attaches….or the feed into the Buss.  Have someone start the Genny.  Read the VOM.  LOOK AT THE VOLTAGE.  You should NOT see more than a tenth…DROP….ZERO is the value.  

Next…..put the clipped lead (one that was on the battery), on the stud that you just measured….find the next connection….rinse and repeat.  You will find, assuming there is a voltage drop at a connection or in a cable WHERE the problem is.  Otherwise, it is a guess and folks do all sorts of rewiring….some work.  I did this.  Did not find my bad switch.  It vibrated and was good sometimes and bad others.  

BUT, when the Genny wouldn’t start, i jumped it….and did metering.

I assume you have a 10Kw. Before I did much more, clean the grounds in front and rear.  We have ALSO had several instances where there was internal corrosion in the cable and terminal.  You can’t see that.  But once you see a half volt drop across a cable, bingo….the issue.

That’s it.  BORING, but the only way to isolate a high resistance connection or cable…

GOOD LUCK…

[96 EVO]

35 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

 

  Swapping the Positive from a deep cycle to a cranking should have made, IMHO,  a noticeable difference. 

 

It actually does!

Until the temperature drops below freezing.

[dandick66]

2 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Use either battery. Assuming you have 50A, use the house.  Clip the hookup wire to the positive on the battery.  Run the other end and clip to the Negative VOM lead. Now, put your Positive lead on the stud where the positive 4/0 attaches….or the feed into the Buss.  Have someone start the Genny.  Read the VOM.  LOOK AT THE VOLTAGE.  You should NOT see more than a tenth…DROP….ZERO is the value.  

Next…..put the clipped lead (one that was on the battery), on the stud that you just measured….find the next connection….rinse and repeat.  You will find, assuming there is a voltage drop at a connection or in a cable WHERE the problem is.  Otherwise, it is a guess and folks do all sorts of rewiring….some work.  I did this.  Did not find my bad switch.  It vibrated and was good sometimes and bad others

I should only have to measure 2 locations since the cable runs from the rear bus directly to the generator.  I’ll clean/double check the grounds, too.  
Yes, I do have the 10kw.  
I’ll try to get this checked out before I head out of town this week.  Otherwise, it will be sometime next month before I can do any troubleshooting.

[Tom Cherry]

11 hours ago, dandick66 said:

I should only have to measure 2 locations since the cable runs from the rear bus directly to the generator.  I’ll clean/double check the grounds, too.  
Yes, I do have the 10kw.  
I’ll try to get this checked out before I head out of town this week.  Otherwise, it will be sometime next month before I can do any troubleshooting.

YES…but understand the process.  Clean the Grounds FIRST.

The troubleshooting technique is that you start at the battery….then go through every connection or relay or solenoid or wherever the “cables” are bolted or make contact… That ALSO includes the House Disconnect switches, if they are in the circuit. It is sometimes a PITA to get to the back or switches or contacts….but you have “isolate” or check the voltage drop at each point or device.  Study your prints…and the  follow the circuit on paper and then on the MH.

It is probably a connection….but possibly a cable…very rare….but happens.

Good Luck.  Let us know…

[Stephen D]

On 10/27/2023 at 5:20 PM, Tom Cherry said:

YES....that will be evident when you pull open or go into the battery compartment.  NOW...remember....no matter if you have to use a vehicle to jump off the engine or the genny (house bank), you ALWAYS need to turn OFF BOTH BATTERY SWITCHES....THEN ATTACH the Starting Battery (Car or whatever) OR Do the INTERNAL JUMPERING.,....That is critical...

YES....POSITIVE TO POSITIVE (from Each Bank) to Negative.  You have FOUR batteries on the HOUSE.... use the Front or REAR ones....

Since this seems to be a little unfamiliar....I took a page out of your manual.  Still suggest, that as you progress or want to understand, read BOTH the electrical session.

As the SAY...One Picture....10,000 key strokes....  OK...look at the marked up file.  The SOLID Black Lines are the MAIN JUMPERS between the Batteries.  So, any of the ones I marked are OK.  NOW, for your continued education.  See the smaller, grayed out ones between each set of HOUSE BATTERIES.  These commonly are KNOWN as the INTERNAL or the HOUSE Connectors...my terminology.  They connect one 6 VDC to another....thus the TWO, in SERIES are 12 VDC.  BUT the large Black Jumpers, that connect the Chassis to each other and the two "sets of 6 VDC" are the Cable or Jumpers that put the batteries or "set" in parallel.  That means you get BOTH batteries or "sets" in parallel.  The CURRENT from each is added.  SO, if you have 225 Amp Hours in a 6 VDC battery....that is the SAME for the two batteries in series or with the small gray jumpers.  BUT, when you put the TWO sets in Parallel, you have 450 Amp Hours of current.  Many folks don't know that....as they never had to "work with it", so if you knew that....just repeating....but it NOT, then helping you to learn.

Ben responded...as expected. and he is happy with his decision.  He is very experienced and knows how the entire system works and did his own rewiring.  I have the same MH and there is a great print...as well as easy to see cables....  BUT, for curiosity's sake, I went through your prints.  TOTALLY DIFFERENT...which happens.  You have ever piece of pipe and fitting detailed...  BUT there is no where, that I saw, the High Current Print showing the large fuses (presumably) that connect the Generator to the House Buss....  Also went through the Manual.  NO PICTURES or High Current Fuses listed for the rear.....  SO...I'm sure we have a LOT of experienced folks that could easily understand and trace circuits and move things around...  But, I can't find any prints to even offer, as you learn MORE, how you would do it.

That's my take....

JUMPERING HOUSE AND CHASSIS BATTERY DIAGRAM - 2009 KNIGHT...AND OTHERS.pdf 322.53 kB · 33 downloads

Hi Tom I’ve always had a problem starting my Genny on my 2010 dynasty if the house battery’s are not 12.6 it won’t start which is a pain if they start to go down wile travelling running the residential fridge but even though it’s messy I always jump it at the genny end connecting a jump pack to the cables on the genny I was going to add jump points to make it easier would you still recommend turning the batteries off wile I connect as I’ve never done that as I was up front off the coach

thanks Stephen D 

[Tom Cherry]

1 hour ago, Stephen D said:

Hi Tom I’ve always had a problem starting my Genny on my 2010 dynasty if the house battery’s are not 12.6 it won’t start which is a pain if they start to go down wile travelling running the residential fridge but even though it’s messy I always jump it at the genny end connecting a jump pack to the cables on the genny I was going to add jump points to make it easier would you still recommend turning the batteries off wile I connect as I’ve never done that as I was up front off the coach

thanks Stephen D 

@Frank McElroy PLEASE CHIME IN HERE.

Generally, and ESPECIALLY for your Kongsberg CCM Chassis, MY recommendation is that you NEVER hook up any Jumper Cables, whether from another Vehicle, a "Jump Pack" or even internally, with the Battery Disconnect Switches ON.  You should turn OFF the Disconnect Switches.  Then hook up the "JUMPERS". Then turn ON the Disconnect Switches. Then start or accomplish what you want.

If you are trying to recharge one bank....say the Chassis... You leave EVERYTHING as hooked up and let the Engine run for maybe 30 minutes to an hour.  That should restore a surface charge to the Chassis batteries.

THEN....turn off the device (Genny or Engine) that needed JUMPING. Then turn OFF the Disconnect switches.  Then REMOVE the cables or whatever. THEN turn back ON the Disconnect switches.

USUALLY, the Engine will start, but it is NOW SAFE to use the BATT BOOST switch.  Likewise, it is now safe to use the BATT BOOST to start the Genny.

That's MY RULE OF THUMB.  Overkill? Probably? Does it take a little longer? YES.  Do you eliminate the potential for shorting out a component? YES.

This is especially critical on the Kongsberg CCM Chassis.

 

 

[Frank McElroy]

2 hours ago, Stephen D said:

Hi Tom I’ve always had a problem starting my Genny on my 2010 dynasty if the house battery’s are not 12.6 it won’t start which is a pain if they start to go down wile travelling running the residential fridge but even though it’s messy I always jump it at the genny end connecting a jump pack to the cables on the genny I was going to add jump points to make it easier would you still recommend turning the batteries off wile I connect as I’ve never done that as I was up front off the coach

thanks Stephen D 

If you are not able to maintain house battery power while driving, the root cause is your big boy not working to connect the chassis to house batteries so that the house batteries are charged by the engine alternator while driving.  Either big boy needs to be cleaned or the small control board in the RRB needs to be repaired..

This is actually a very serious issue on a Kongsberg chassis multiplex coach.  While driving the house batteries MUST be charged either by the engine alternator or the generator via the Magnum inverter/charger.  If driving at night with the lights on, eventually you will lose all house battery power and all dash and lights will go dead yet the engine will still run.  In your case until big boy is either fixed or bypassed you should always run the generator while driving.  Any time while driving, if house and chassis batteries aren't showing charging voltage, run the generator.

As for using a battery pack to jump start, just connect the positive lead on the battery pack to the house battery lug on the side post in the FRB (Front Run Bay) and the other side to ground.  The generator battery cable connects to that lug in the FRB.  No need to turn OFF the battery disconnect switches (which on most Kongsberg coaches won't power down the FRB anyway).

[Stephen D]

Thanks frank I’ve had the problem of the alternator not charging the house batteries from new and I just thought it was not supposed to because of the size of the bank I also through there was a problem from new with the big boy as when I pressed the dash jump switch nothing happened and the big bog would not disconnect unless I switched the batteries off at the disconnect switch as there’s no techs here in the uk I will probably need help to fix the problem  when I get the motor home out of to winter storage 

thanks again to all stephen D

[Frank McElroy]

5 minutes ago, Stephen D said:

Thanks frank I’ve had the problem of the alternator not charging the house batteries from new and I just thought it was not supposed to because of the size of the bank I also through there was a problem from new with the big boy as when I pressed the dash jump switch nothing happened and the big bog would not disconnect unless I switched the batteries off at the disconnect switch as there’s no techs here in the uk I will probably need help to fix the problem  when I get the motor home out of to winter storage 

thanks again to all stephen D

First follow the big boy cleaning procedure.  Since you hear it engaging, likely all it needs is a good cleaning of the interior contacts.

 

[Stephen D]

Thanks frank my first job of the season 

Stephen D

[Newcsn]

On 2/6/2024 at 8:14 AM, Tom Cherry said:

@Frank McElroy PLEASE CHIME IN HERE.

Generally, and ESPECIALLY for your Kongsberg CCM Chassis, MY recommendation is that you NEVER hook up any Jumper Cables, whether from another Vehicle, a "Jump Pack" or even internally, with the Battery Disconnect Switches ON.  You should turn OFF the Disconnect Switches.  Then hook up the "JUMPERS". Then turn ON the Disconnect Switches. Then start or accomplish what you want.

If you are trying to recharge one bank....say the Chassis... You leave EVERYTHING as hooked up and let the Engine run for maybe 30 minutes to an hour.  That should restore a surface charge to the Chassis batteries.

THEN....turn off the device (Genny or Engine) that needed JUMPING. Then turn OFF the Disconnect switches.  Then REMOVE the cables or whatever. THEN turn back ON the Disconnect switches.

USUALLY, the Engine will start, but it is NOW SAFE to use the BATT BOOST switch.  Likewise, it is now safe to use the BATT BOOST to start the Genny.

That's MY RULE OF THUMB.  Overkill? Probably? Does it take a little longer? YES.  Do you eliminate the potential for shorting out a component? YES.

This is especially critical on the Kongsberg CCM Chassis.

 

 

@Tom Cherry @Frank McElroy I've finally had a chance to dig deeper into our "genny won't start w/o engine running" and the cabling to our generator. It appears Monaco only ran a 4 AWG cable (very small) from the genny to ground & a 2 AWG to positive. I'm planning to run new 2/0 cables for ground from genny to the frame & positive from genny to the stud in the FRB. 

When I compare the size of wires on the High Current Diagram to the actual wires on our Dynasty I'm confused.

The diagram calls out "2GA RED" from the FRB to genny & hydraulic pump. However, those two red cables on the studs in the FRB are 2/0 welding cable. Further, the actual 2 AWG cable from the genny appears to run to the rear of the coach - not the FRB - I don't see a single 2 AWG cable in the FRB..

Am I misunderstanding cable sizing, the diagram or what I'm reading on the actual cables - or perhaps all of it?

Also, if I do run a new 2/0 positive cable from the genny to the FRB, what should I do with the existing 2 AWG cable at the genny? Terminate & insulate near the genny or put back on the positive stud at the genny?

Thanks so much!

[Frank McElroy]

3 hours ago, Newcsn said:

@Tom Cherry @Frank McElroy I've finally had a chance to dig deeper into our "genny won't start w/o engine running" and the cabling to our generator. It appears Monaco only ran a 4 AWG cable (very small) from the genny to ground & a 2 AWG to positive. I'm planning to run new 2/0 cables for ground from genny to the frame & positive from genny to the stud in the FRB. 

When I compare the size of wires on the High Current Diagram to the actual wires on our Dynasty I'm confused.

The diagram calls out "2GA RED" from the FRB to genny & hydraulic pump. However, those two red cables on the studs in the FRB are 2/0 welding cable. Further, the actual 2 AWG cable from the genny appears to run to the rear of the coach - not the FRB - I don't see a single 2 AWG cable in the FRB..

Am I misunderstanding cable sizing, the diagram or what I'm reading on the actual cables - or perhaps all of it?

Also, if I do run a new 2/0 positive cable from the genny to the FRB, what should I do with the existing 2 AWG cable at the genny? Terminate & insulate near the genny or put back on the positive stud at the genny?

Thanks so much!

Look on the outside of the FRB.  That's where the cables feed from the RRB and connect to the generator.

[Tom Cherry]

5 hours ago, Newcsn said:

@Tom Cherry @Frank McElroy I've finally had a chance to dig deeper into our "genny won't start w/o engine running" and the cabling to our generator. It appears Monaco only ran a 4 AWG cable (very small) from the genny to ground & a 2 AWG to positive. I'm planning to run new 2/0 cables for ground from genny to the frame & positive from genny to the stud in the FRB. 

When I compare the size of wires on the High Current Diagram to the actual wires on our Dynasty I'm confused.

The diagram calls out "2GA RED" from the FRB to genny & hydraulic pump. However, those two red cables on the studs in the FRB are 2/0 welding cable. Further, the actual 2 AWG cable from the genny appears to run to the rear of the coach - not the FRB - I don't see a single 2 AWG cable in the FRB..

Am I misunderstanding cable sizing, the diagram or what I'm reading on the actual cables - or perhaps all of it?

Also, if I do run a new 2/0 positive cable from the genny to the FRB, what should I do with the existing 2 AWG cable at the genny? Terminate & insulate near the genny or put back on the positive stud at the genny?

Thanks so much!

See Frank’s post.  The posts are “studs” or connectors from the OUTSIDE to the INSIDE. 
 

NOW…there’s a TOTALLY different and newer and really DETAILED topic.

All you need to know is in this topic.  Before you do ANYTHING….read and understand it.  NOW…after that…I’ll answer you questions below….

Yes…you are misunderstanding the cables and locations and what needs to be done.

You need to make up or have made up TWO new cables.  Negative and Positive.  Find a welding shop.  Pull the GROUND.  Mark the END that attaches to the Genny studs. Take it in…tell them….exact same….including the Holes (the inside diameters) of the terminals.  They MAY have to order ones with the same size holes.  Must be a duplicate.

NOW measure the inside terminals….there should be two BONDED together….LOOK at the prints in the more recent discussion. NOW…I’d use a tape measure and sort of guestimate how LONG the positive is.  It IS LONGER, I’ve been told, than the Negative. Add a foot or so if uncertain.  Measure the stud size (calipers or micrometer) of the inside stud where the #2 AWG is bolted.  You need that exact size.  You know what size ring hole from the Negative…so now you will have TWO replacement cables. 

Install.  I’d pull out the puny #2 AWG.  Hang onto them….never can tell..

READ; COMPREHEND; DO…  LOL  

Good Luck.  This whole topic is now much better understood by all…

 

[Newcsn]

41 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

READ; COMPREHEND; DO…  LOL  

@Tom Cherry Yep - comprende! Thank you & @Frank McElroy for the pics! Makes perfect sense!

This group is amazing!

[Newcsn]

Thanks again @Tom Cherry & @Frank McElroy for you outstanding feedback regarding our "genny won't start w/o engine running".

As suggested, I ordered a 7' 2/0 ground cable & a 14' 2/0 positive cable. I checked around and ordered them from Battery Cables USA - https://www.batterycablesusa.com/00-gauge-2-0-copper-flexible-rubber-with-ends - $145 & they had them to me in 2 days!

Put them on & she cranks right over!

However, it appears Monaco didn't actually do what my High Current Diagram indicates. The diagram indicates the 2GA Red wire to the genny runs to/from the FRB. It does not. They ran it to the rear of the coach. I terminated it up front - wasn't going to try & fishing it out from the back. I sealed/insulated the terminated end of the cable & cable tied it out of the way.

Nonetheless, she's operating like she supposed to! Thanks again for sharing your knowledge!

On to the next project . . . 

[96 EVO]

 So, I take it you tapped +12v power from the chassis stud in the FRB?

[Newcsn]

@96 EVO Yes - I believe that's accurate. I attached it to one of the the two bonded posts in the FRB.

2006 Dynasty High Current.pdf

 

[Tom Cherry]

1 hour ago, Newcsn said:

Thanks again @Tom Cherry & @Frank McElroy for you outstanding feedback regarding our "genny won't start w/o engine running".

As suggested, I ordered a 7' 2/0 ground cable & a 14' 2/0 positive cable. I checked around and ordered them from Battery Cables USA - https://www.batterycablesusa.com/00-gauge-2-0-copper-flexible-rubber-with-ends - $145 & they had them to me in 2 days!

Put them on & she cranks right over!

However, it appears Monaco didn't actually do what my High Current Diagram indicates. The diagram indicates the 2GA Red wire to the genny runs to/from the FRB. It does not. They ran it to the rear of the coach. I terminated it up front - wasn't going to try & fishing it out from the back. I sealed/insulated the terminated end of the cable & cable tied it out of the way.

Nonetheless, she's operating like she supposed to! Thanks again for sharing your knowledge!

On to the next project . . . 

It is ALWAYS SATISFYING when some of your "gee....that's what's WRONG" fixes works.  And I appreciate you trusting and doing this.  This will certainly set some folks minds at ease and also debunk the myth that "GOTTA HAVE THAT UP FRONT BATTERY"

THANKS A BUNCH FOR THE FEEDBACK....Glad, really GLAD, it worked like I calculated....

Ben @96 EVO

Yes, The Dynasty has the SAME 4/0 (0000) cables running up front like our's has.  Now REMEMBER, he ordered BOTH cables....the GROUND and the POSITIVE. He did it right...you might have the crimper.  You need to get the OD of the Genny Studs, the Ground and the up front Chassis (or House if you prefer).  I can tell you, from my shenanigans up there, there is plenty of stud left to put on cables. I THOUHGT that the 2/0 (00) cables would work....certainly a BIG improvement.  If you do the Voltage Drop calculations on our 2/0, then that tells the tale.

OK....curiosity.  Reran using your setup.  That is 2/0 (00) all the way from the back.  BINGO....problem solved.  If you go back to my chart....here is the deal.

Using the 4/0 (0000) stud and a 2/0 (00) cable, you'll get around 11.5 VDC (battery at 12.7) cranking voltage and you'll probably pull close to 200 Amps...which is enough.  SO....that should work.

NOW....what you have NOW.  AIN'T enough.  If you use the 2/0 (00) cable all the way from the back...like it is wired, the cranking voltage, for 200 Amps, will be around 10.9 VDC.  Let's call that HALF A VOLT.  Half a VOLT is a LOT when you are trying to crank a diesel.

SO....  Your OPTIONS.  If you have a crimper....then make up your own.  If you used 4/0 (0000), hardly noticable...but maybe 0.08 VDC more.  Probably NOT needed....but up to you.

NOW...if you REALLY want that puppy to spin....then put in the Selector Switch.  Not a BIG deal....if you have the crimper...  THEN, it will really turn over....as you will be feeding it TWICE, or the AMPS will be sky high (and it will only DRAW what it needs).

That's the skinny and the numbers.

Let us know what, if anything, you do... 

[96 EVO]

1 hour ago, Newcsn said:

@96 EVO Yes - I believe that's accurate. I attached it to one of the the two bonded posts in the FRB.

2006 Dynasty High Current.pdf 200.09 kB · 1 download

 

How did 14' work out?

I realize the gen needs to slide out, but you can't have it dragging down the road.

[Newcsn]

12 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

How did 14' work out?

I realize the gen needs to slide out, but you can't have it dragging down the road.

I routed both cables from the gen exactly as the old ones came off - up the back driver’s side of the gen w/ the fuel lines, across the top of the gen toward the pass side through 2 insulated wire loops that are bolted to the gen and then ran it toward the rear & cable tied it to the cable bundle that exits the top/front/pass side of the gen to the rear.

When I got to the frame cross member where the negative cable attached I made a “right angle” with the positive cable and routed it toward & over the driver’s side frame rail. On the outboard side of the frame rail there’s a large bundle of cables that runs toward the front of the coach to the FRB. I followed that path all the way up to the FRB.

Once I had the cables ran I intentionally left all the cable ties loose until I ran the gen in & out a few times to make certain nothing was binding or rubbing against the exhaust/bolts/edges. I had to make a couple adjustments & then cinched everything down.

14’ of positive cable worked perfectly - no binding & nothing even close to the ground. 

2 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

You need to get the OD of the Genny Studs,

On mine, the pos & neg studs on the gen were 5/16”. The negative/ground stud on the frame cross member was 5/16”. And the stud on the outside of the FRB was 3/8”. I selected these sizes when ordering the cables & they nailed it!

[promontory]

FWIW, just completed replacing he generator cables on my 2008 dynasty for the 10K genny, and I also routed the positive the same as @Newcsn. I ran 4/0AWG welding cable and crimped the ends. I used 14ft for the positive and 6ft for the negative. Studs on the FRB were 3/8" and on the generator were 5/16".

[96 EVO]

5 minutes ago, promontory said:

FWIW, just completed replacing he generator cables on my 2008 dynasty for the 10K genny, and I also routed the positive the same as @Newcsn. I ran 4/0AWG welding cable and crimped the ends. I used 14ft for the positive and 6ft for the negative. Studs on the FRB were 3/8" and on the generator were 5/16".

Cranking over better?

[promontory]

Yes! It has started immediately on every test after finishing today. It is starting so quickly, I have not really been able to hear how fast it cranks? So not sure on cranking speed, but it has never started every time I try to start it. Until the mod, it would usually NOT start, unless the main was running, and then it might take me 2 or 3 tries to get it going sometimes. Now, without main running, it starts almost as soon as it starts cranking.