Intellitec Auto Energy Rear AC/Washer Dryer Switch...Splendide WD2100 status light flickers, machine off and on

[joefromperry]

The Spendide washer/dryer, model WD2100 has worked fine in my 2003 Signature, until yesterday. Now when I start it everything seems good: door locks, water starts to fill, etc. But within a minute, it seems to lose power, the red light flickers and goes off, then starts up again where it left off for maybe 10-15 seconds, then repeats the shutoff. I went through troubleshooting section in the service/training/owners manual(s), but it doesn't really speak to this issue. I know the w/d is connected to the third air conditioner for load sharing, but this happens whether the ac is on or off. No matter which setting it's on, wash, spin, dry, etc., it does the same. Drum spins okay, so not belt. It's going to be a pain in the dupa to pull it out, if that's what I need to do. I'll call Westland tomorrow, but I thought I'd first see if anyone here has experienced and resolved similar. Thanks in advance.

[Tom Cherry]

Eliminate first.

Turn off the W/D breaker.  Then chase down the Intellitec AES module….supposedly under the bed. Disconnect the LINE side Romex and the W/D Romex. Temporarily wire nut them together and then test. A failed AES can still be the issue as it is very common failure part due to “misuse”.

If it is the AES, then replace and make a sticky note, if needed, to NEVER EVER attempt to run the Rear AC when using the W/D. This is, per all the posts here, the number one failure.  It also does NOT do the W/D any good to have the AES cutting power on and off repeatedly.

The circuit was never designed for constant switching or such.  The manual warns against this also.  The AES was just a “load sensor”.  Due to the circuit inside the W/D, running both just destroys the AES.

May not be the cause, but is most probable and needs to be eliminated prior to working on a “may not be broke” W/D.

Good Luck….

[Jetjockey]

What does aes stand for,same as ems?

Edited March 10 by Jetjockey

[joefromperry]

2 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Eliminate first.

Turn off the W/D breaker.  Then chase down the Intellitec AES module….supposedly under the bed. Disconnect the LINE side Romex and the W/D Romex. Temporarily wire nut them together and then test. A failed AES can still be the issue as it is very common failure part due to “misuse”.

If it is the AES, then replace and make a sticky note, if needed, to NEVER EVER attempt to run the Rear AC when using the W/D. This is, per all the posts here, the number one failure.  It also does NOT do the W/D any good to have the AES cutting power on and off repeatedly.

The circuit was never designed for constant switching or such.  The manual warns against this also.  The AES was just a “load sensor”.  Due to the circuit inside the W/D, running both just destroys the AES.

May not be the cause, but is most probable and needs to be eliminated prior to working on a “may not be broke” W/D.

Good Luck….

Thank you, Tom. I'll do that today. It was my first thought, but I need to find it. However, in just messing with it now per Splendide's troubleshooting, if I set the dryer to 30 minutes and turn it on, the "auto dry" LED is on, and door lock/status goes on and dryer starts.  Then, as I mentioned, the status light flickers and goes off, but the "auto dry" LED stays on, which tells me that I'm not losing power to the dryer and maybe it's. not the AES. Thoughts?

Edit: I think the W/D is connected to my middle AC unit, not the bedroom. But your point is well-taken. I'll test that out, too.

 

Edited March 10 by joefromperry

[Hancoman]

In my executive you can’t run middle ac and the washer at the same time, switch is either on ac or washer

[Donflem]

Just changed mine a week ago.In my Dynasty it’s the rear ac.

[joefromperry]

On 3/10/2024 at 5:56 AM, joefromperry said:

The Spendide washer/dryer, model WD2100 has worked fine in my 2003 Signature, until yesterday. Now when I start it everything seems good: door locks, water starts to fill, etc. But within a minute, it seems to lose power, the red light flickers and goes off, then starts up again where it left off for maybe 10-15 seconds, then repeats the shutoff. I went through troubleshooting section in the service/training/owners manual(s), but it doesn't really speak to this issue. I know the w/d is connected to the third air conditioner for load sharing, but this happens whether the ac is on or off. No matter which setting it's on, wash, spin, dry, etc., it does the same. Drum spins okay, so not belt. It's going to be a pain in the dupa to pull it out, if that's what I need to do. I'll call Westland tomorrow, but I thought I'd first see if anyone here has experienced and resolved similar. Thanks in advance.

Update: after working through some troubleshooting with Westland tech, it's a real possibility that the problem is a loose wire somewhere in the unit. I won't be able to pull the washer until I get home, but will update then. The only alternative is a control board problem. like broken solder connection. He said boards were no longer available. Thanks for the suggestions.

[joefromperry]

Update: After taking the washer out, opening it, and checking out the wiring, I discovered the surge protector was bad, and it is discontinued. In troubleshooting I also found I need to replace the control board, too, also discontinued. I'm trying to explore my options.

[Tom Cherry]

43 minutes ago, joefromperry said:

Update: After taking the washer out, opening it, and checking out the wiring, I discovered the surge protector was bad, and it is discontinued. In troubleshooting I also found I need to replace the control board, too, also discontinued. I'm trying to explore my options.

Could you “expound” a little. Are you referring to all the internal Splendide electronics.  The reason, which may sound illogical is the variety of ways the Monaco’s are wired.

Many Dynasty’s have an Intellitec “Switch”….usually under the bed. The switch’s function is to allow one breaker to work either the AC unit or the WD.  Many don’t understand it.  A few even think it is a “surge suppressorl”.  When the rear AC is running and the Intellitec unit detects a “load” on the WD…as it is IN USE.  It kills or switches OFF the rear AC.  We get many tooics about the rear AC cutting off.

NOW we also have members woth hardwired Surge Suppressors….we also have members with individual “cube” plug in (Typically Belkin) surge suppressors on every device that has an “LED” screen.  That includes the Home Entertainment System, Microwave, Refrigerator (AC reaidental), ETC.

I’m not an expert on the Splendide…..we used to have one that did repairs and worked with them a s his wife had Youtube videos on proper use and tips.

Just trying to understand how the internal electronics….if that is what you mean, works,

Thanks for the followup and such.  It helps members in the futurre, who post….so glad you have kept this topic going…otherwise the new comment would have been merged into the original…

Good Luck….

[joefromperry]

6 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Could you “expound” a little. Are you referring to all the internal Splendide electronics.  The reason, which may sound illogical is the variety of ways the Monaco’s are wired.

Many Dynasty’s have an Intellitec “Switch”….usually under the bed. The switch’s function is to allow one breaker to work either the AC unit or the WD.  Many don’t understand it.  A few even think it is a “surge suppressorl”.  When the rear AC is running and the Intellitec unit detects a “load” on the WD…as it is IN USE.  It kills or switches OFF the rear AC.  We get many tooics about the rear AC cutting off.

NOW we also have members woth hardwired Surge Suppressors….we also have members with individual “cube” plug in (Typically Belkin) surge suppressors on every device that has an “LED” screen.  That includes the Home Entertainment System, Microwave, Refrigerator (AC reaidental), ETC.

I’m not an expert on the Splendide…..we used to have one that did repairs and worked with them a s his wife had Youtube videos on proper use and tips.

Just trying to understand how the internal electronics….if that is what you mean, works,

Thanks for the followup and such.  It helps members in the futurre, who post….so glad you have kept this topic going…otherwise the new comment would have been merged into the original…

Good Luck….

I'm sorry, Tom. My problem has nothing to do with my Monaco coach,  only with the washer itself. The washer began to "trip" off and on. Working through / troubleshooting with the Splendide tech, we determined that either some wires were loose or it was a problem with the washer control board. After removing the washer from the coach, plugging in to non-coach outlet, I found the above problem(s). The washer power input / 110 plug goes to / through an internal surge suppressor, then to the control board, all inside the washer body. The unit, WD2100, is 20+ years old and has worked fine until now. Parts just not available as there have been two newer models of this washer released since then. I hope this clears things up a little.

[Tom Cherry]

14 minutes ago, joefromperry said:

I'm sorry, Tom. My problem has nothing to do with my Monaco coach,  only with the washer itself. The washer began to "trip" off and on. Working through / troubleshooting with the Splendide tech, we determined that either some wires were loose or it was a problem with the washer control board. After removing the washer from the coach, plugging in to non-coach outlet, I found the above problem(s). The washer power input / 110 plug goes to / through an internal surge suppressor, then to the control board, all inside the washer body. The unit, WD2100, is 20+ years old and has worked fine until now. Parts just not available as there have been two newer models of this washer released since then. I hope this clears things up a little.

Apology not needed.  I thought that was what you meant…and just wanted to clarify….as well as make sure that some members with the SHARED Circuit Switch on the 2005 or maybe a year or two older were aware of the Intellitec Automatic Energy Select switch….

https://intellitec.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/53-00714-000.pdf

This is a HIGH failure item….primarily because members might not have read the manual where it says…..TURN OFF the REAR (typically) AC unit when using the Washer/Dryer.  The constant switching on and off will burn up the contacts.  Members may start a load of clothes and leave the MH…and leave all AC’s ON…so they are never aware that the poor switch is being cycled on and off…AT FULL LOAD and that burns up the contacts. This was an opportunity for a “teaching” moment.

Your info on the internals of the Splendide is GREAT.  Thanks.

[granvillebarker]

EDITED and Combined with the last Topic which is current. END of EDIT

In my 05 Dynasty Countess the rear a/c isn’t getting 120v a/c, the washer still works, so it’s got to be the intellitec automatic load transfer switch, but I can’t find it.

Any ideas?

[Donflem]

Mine is the little drawer under  where The washer and dryer would go pull out that drawer and it’s right there at least on my dynasty it is.

Don

[Jim Stringer]

I suspect you have a bad relay on the EMS circuit board that is located behind the 120 VAC distribution panel. Remove that panel and look for the circuit board. It should have six relays and four of them are used. One for the front AC, one for the rear AC, one for the washer/dryer, and one for the water heater. If you are connected to shore power all the green LED's on your EMS display should be illuminated. All the relays should be passing power. Take a multimeter and use the AC voltage range to check each terminal of the relay board. Attach one lead of the meter to a suitable ground and use the other to move from screw terminal to screw terminal. If you find a terminal that is not passing power you have found your problem. We have years of experience managing power and do not rely on the EMS for that. I simply moved the wire on the dead terminal to the terminal of that relay with power, thus bypassing the relay. Those relays are underrated and tend to get hot and fail. While you are there check the tightness of all the terminals and the terminals of the circuit breakers in the AC panel. Of course make sure to be disconnected from shore power and have the generator turned off while doing this. Also check the screw terminals inside the transfer switch. This is something everyone should do each year.

[granvillebarker]

1 hour ago, Donflem said:

Mine is the little drawer under  where The washer and dryer would go pull out that drawer and it’s right there at least on my dynasty it is.

Don

It was not behind or under the washer / dryer.

1 hour ago, Jim Stringer said:

I suspect you have a bad relay on the EMS circuit board that is located behind the 120 VAC distribution panel. Remove that panel and look for the circuit board. It should have six relays and four of them are used. One for the front AC, one for the rear AC, one for the washer/dryer, and one for the water heater. If you are connected to shore power all the green LED's on your EMS display should be illuminated. All the relays should be passing power. Take a multimeter and use the AC voltage range to check each terminal of the relay board. Attach one lead of the meter to a suitable ground and use the other to move from screw terminal to screw terminal. If you find a terminal that is not passing power you have found your problem. We have years of experience managing power and do not rely on the EMS for that. I simply moved the wire on the dead terminal to the terminal of that relay with power, thus bypassing the relay. Those relays are underrated and tend to get hot and fail. While you are there check the tightness of all the terminals and the terminals of the circuit breakers in the AC panel. Of course make sure to be disconnected from shore power and have the generator turned off while doing this. Also check the screw terminals inside the transfer switch. This is something everyone should do each year.

I looked inside the breaker box that has the breaker for that circuit and there was one unrelated relay in there, I don’t think it has the same EMS.

[Jim Stringer]

Check this out....

[Twomed]

Mine is on the wall behind the Splendide, accessible through the lift out access for the water faucets.  By "access" I mean you can see it.  Pretty sure you will be pulling the washer in order to have room to change it.  Another dumb Monaco install.

[amphi_sc]

On the subject of load sharing the rear A/C and washer via the Intellitect AES  https://intellitec.com/automatic-energy-selector-switch/  Having replaced the AES once and now occasionally catching the washer running with the A/C attempting to run during the minimal low current draw seconds of a wash cycle (when DW forgot to turn off the A/C unit) I have often thought about bypassing it and running the washer from the rear 30 amp subpanel that supplies the dryer. By observation the dryer takes at most 11 amps each leg and the washer 9 amps so the worst load on one leg is way less than the 30 amp feed to that rear subpanel double breaker.  So just add a washer breaker to feed the washer directly thus the rear A/C could run while washing.  What's the down side?  The dryer and now washer would be fed from the rear subpanel which is fed with 10/4 from the front main lugs.

[granvillebarker]

On 10/21/2024 at 8:26 AM, Twomed said:

Mine is on the wall behind the Splendide, accessible through the lift out access for the water faucets.  By "access" I mean you can see it.  Pretty sure you will be pulling the washer in order to have room to change it.  Another dumb Monaco install.

Theres a double electrical  box behind mine too with a high voltage sticker, next to the outlet, and I thought that would be it, but it just had wire nuts connecting wires in there.