Tom Cherry Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 3 hours ago, John C said: Yesterday the ground is still wet because of the rain on Saturday so I didn't get a chance to crawling under the coach. Just test it today. The battery started at 1.35v (right after I unplugged it from shore power) Pushed the generator,it dropped to 12.68v and stayed there for 4-5 seconds. I heard the crank, the voltage drop to 9.68v for one second Generator start!!! The voltage came back 12-13v(didn't pay too much attention this point so I don't have the exact number). So after two days charging, it started under 6 seconds The inside keypad switch works now, I believe that was not "working" because I made the same mistake by releasing the keypad too soon(Just like I released the switch outside the generator too soon). The only problem right now is the keypad light is reversed, the generator light on keypad is one when generator is not started, and it is off when Gen Started. It looks like a wiring issue and I am not going to worry about that for now because I have so many major things to work on the coach now. Thanks again for all your help. John John…..you MUST test the cranking a TOTAL of FOUR times. One at the Chassis….need at rest and then what it read…when your wife holds the switch…. Then…..at the FRB where the cables from the Generator are connected.. Then….on the Generator battery studs….under or on the back of the Generator FINALLY….hook up a pair of Jumper cables from the point where the Generator cables are connected up front…..and then connect the other ends to the studs on the bottom back. We NEED the AT REST voltage. The where does it drop to snd stabilize before it cranks….finally, what does it drop down to when the starter finally kicks in….in yiur first test….that was a little under 10….NOT GOOD. What we know now. Your Chassis batteries are being drained too much. ODDS ARE….that is from the cabling issues up front. Unless you want to spend, I think, needlessly money and put in a new set….ONLY to find the same issues….then you have to run the tests. Pure and Simple. This topic is at a standstill until you do the testing. What we NOW KNOW…your Chassis Batteries are dropping below the critical point and each time you start the genny, that harms them. Many folks say that if the cranking voltage at the batteries drops below 10.5 VDC….new batteries. Yours went below 10. BUT…if you complete the tests….the final test will simulate what is going to happen with the RIGHT SIZE Generator cables….again…this is a common issue…. Odds are….with a 2/00 pair of NEW cables from the FRB to the Generator….you will have great voltage at the generator and you won’t see the large voltage drop. So, for all practical purposes, this topic is on hold. You need to run the tests and report back. Please decide if you are going to do that or just let it continue to be an issue. I don’t think your Chassis Batteries are ready for replacement….and even if you do, then in a year or so you will have the same issues….so….lets troubleshoot now and then you can fix it, Thanks… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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