Jump to content

Intellitec MP Switch Pads….Interior Lighting panels 07 Dynasty


Recommended Posts

I have 4 lighting switch panels that are not operating. When I look at the control boards (in the rear closet) There are four that do not have the green power light on. Therefore I assume that is the problem however I have no idea where to go from here. Do the control boxes have a main fuse? Any help with where to go from here is greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Tom Cherry changed the title to Intellitec MP Switch Pads….Interior Lighting panels 07 Dynasty
4 minutes ago, Constwkr said:

I have 4 lighting switch panels that are not operating. When I look at the control boards (in the rear closet) There are four that do not have the green power light on. Therefore I assume that is the problem however I have no idea where to go from here. Do the control boxes have a main fuse? Any help with where to go from here is greatly appreciated.

Fix number one.  ASSUME your Battery Cutoff Switch up front is functional and NOT Bypassed.  Turn OFF the switch (push the bottom).  All Interior lights will go off.  Now wait about 5 minutes.  Whilst waiting….go to each “not working” switch and push in any switch a few times…..naybe hold 5 seconds or so.

NOW….. TURN BACK ON battery.  Push TOP of switch.

That usually work.  You just rebooted the CPU that rins the MPX. Trust me on this. I have the NON CPU system.  What happens….and I did it.  I removed cables from house bank and did NOT kill the Battery Disconnect Switch.   Just the erratic bumping or pulsing on the terminals messed up the Boot Cycle.

OK….the MPX….  Here is how it works. Flaky switches can be a “BAD” Boot or reset….or bad connection to wiring harness (when multiple) …like yours or BAD SWITCH.

 

PROBABLY ONE OFVTHE FIRST TWO.

 

@Frank McElroy & @pwhittle are out resiurced….they can repair boards for 20% of the vebdor

 

do the above.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If when you press the wall light switch the lights don't turn on that implies one thing to me.  The green LEDs on the boards on the closet light up when the circuit is supposed to be on, and are off when the circuit is supposed to be off.  What happens when you command everything to turn on by holding the Master Off switch?  (Not the salesman switch but the wall switch labeled master off typically up front and also by the bed.) Do all the lights turn on in sequence and thus the green LEDs also turn on?  If so I would try carefully pop the cover off the wall switch(es), unscrew the two screws to pull it off the wall, unplug & replug the backside wiring connection.  A bad connection could break the blue or yellow loop serial operation. Check for unusual kinking in the wires.  You could also unplug/replug the edge connectors on the closet boards.  This assumes you have done the CPU reboot mentioned above ... Although not sure why Tom mentions multiplex chassis stuff I wouldn't think you have and I can't think of a connection to the front run box???

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tom, I followed the procedure you laid out and everything came back on. Thanks for you help and expertise! Once again this board comes through for all of us who are much less knowledgeable about the systems in our coaches. 

Dan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, amphi_sc said:

If when you press the wall light switch the lights don't turn on that implies one thing to me.  The green LEDs on the boards on the closet light up when the circuit is supposed to be on, and are off when the circuit is supposed to be off.  What happens when you command everything to turn on by holding the Master Off switch?  (Not the salesman switch but the wall switch labeled master off typically up front and also by the bed.) Do all the lights turn on in sequence and thus the green LEDs also turn on?  If so I would try carefully pop the cover off the wall switch(es), unscrew the two screws to pull it off the wall, unplug & replug the backside wiring connection.  A bad connection could break the blue or yellow loop serial operation. Check for unusual kinking in the wires.  You could also unplug/replug the edge connectors on the closet boards.  This assumes you have done the CPU reboot mentioned above ... Although not sure why Tom mentions multiplex chassis stuff I wouldn't think you have and I can't think of a connection to the front run box???

GOOD CATCH….I did at least 10 of these yearerday.  My iPad will NOT Copy and Paste the links to our files.  I have to paste and recopy (PITA) the link in a email format.  Here is the one that I MEANT to include….Thanks.

Totally agree with you.  Don’t do anything until you reboot or refresh the system.  The problem that @Constwkr or Dan has here is a “CLASSIC” of a faulty reboot or killing power.  I DID THAT.  Took Frank M and myself a few minutes to troubleshoot and analyze.  You will also, possibly, have a circuit that will light up on one keypad,,but be DEAD on another….and all the other individual buttons light and such.  A REBOOT where there is a momentary contact….then off…then on drives a MPX crazy….  TRUST ME. I disconnected the positive on my 16 Vette and added a ring terminal for an external maintainer.  Next service….OMG….the tech paniced…he cleared the 20 or so codes…..all was well.  He wanted to know “How did you do that?”….

One OTHER OMG is that Monaco daisy chained some switches…..instead of putting them in parallel.  My GUT says reboot.  YES…you can loose a switch….but that is usually ONE….and not random on others as the whole MPX Data Buss is a loop.

I will edit the other post.. here is the correct one, that i meant to post.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

Hello all. This is not the same issue as above but related to the intellitec Keypads- Moderators feel free to move and reidentify.

I have an unusual condition with one of my intellitec key pads on my 2006 Dynasty Diamond IV floor plan. This coach has a 6 button keypad in the toilet room. The three top buttons are for rope lights, vanity Lights, and overhead lights. The bottom 3 switches control the water pump, Aqua hot fan and fantastic fan. 

My issue is that the lower left switch for the water pump and lower center switch for the aquahot fan turn themselves on and off by them self. The circuits also turn themselves off and on as confirmed by waterpump operation and aqua hot fan operation when this happens. Pressing the buttons sometimes has no effect. Sometimes just touching the switch panel trim causes the condition.

When the waterpump switch turns on, the amber "on" indicator on the other switch panels illuminates indicating the circuit is active. The green LEDs in the closet module also turn on and off when this happens. I can also hear relays clicking when this happens. 

I have tried the reboot using the salesman switch and house battery switches with no change. Disconnecting the mylox connector to the switch panel stops the errant self activations. This happens at random and has been going on for some time. 

Are there any methods to clean the internal switches or any other options to correct this strange issue? Thanks! Dan. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I saw a similar issue on another coach., an 07 Dynasty.

There is an Intellitec module that reads analog signals and it had failed, putting spurious signals on the PMC bus and turning on circuits.

On that coach it was Module F, anIntellitec 00-00917-416 that was the failed part.

Try unplugging the PMC connector from that module and see if the problem goes away.

if it does, replace the module. 

Paul

image.thumb.jpeg.aa6eeaa939ff7793c2da3b46fe6012c2.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, det944 said:

Hello all. This is not the same issue as above but related to the intellitec Keypads- Moderators feel free to move and reidentify.

I have an unusual condition with one of my intellitec key pads on my 2006 Dynasty Diamond IV floor plan. This coach has a 6 button keypad in the toilet room. The three top buttons are for rope lights, vanity Lights, and overhead lights. The bottom 3 switches control the water pump, Aqua hot fan and fantastic fan. 

My issue is that the lower left switch for the water pump and lower center switch for the aquahot fan turn themselves on and off by them self. The circuits also turn themselves off and on as confirmed by waterpump operation and aqua hot fan operation when this happens. Pressing the buttons sometimes has no effect. Sometimes just touching the switch panel trim causes the condition.

When the waterpump switch turns on, the amber "on" indicator on the other switch panels illuminates indicating the circuit is active. The green LEDs in the closet module also turn on and off when this happens. I can also hear relays clicking when this happens. 

I have tried the reboot using the salesman switch and house battery switches with no change. Disconnecting the mylox connector to the switch panel stops the errant self activations. This happens at random and has been going on for some time. 

Are there any methods to clean the internal switches or any other options to correct this strange issue? Thanks! Dan. 

I had this same issue. I was told that the fluorescent light ballasts can wreak havoc with the Intellec system. I removed all of my ballasts and converted the fixtures to LED strip lights. Never had the gremlins return since.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, det944 said:

Hello all. This is not the same issue as above but related to the intellitec Keypads- Moderators feel free to move and reidentify.

I have an unusual condition with one of my intellitec key pads on my 2006 Dynasty Diamond IV floor plan. This coach has a 6 button keypad in the toilet room. The three top buttons are for rope lights, vanity Lights, and overhead lights. The bottom 3 switches control the water pump, Aqua hot fan and fantastic fan. 

My issue is that the lower left switch for the water pump and lower center switch for the aquahot fan turn themselves on and off by them self. The circuits also turn themselves off and on as confirmed by waterpump operation and aqua hot fan operation when this happens. Pressing the buttons sometimes has no effect. Sometimes just touching the switch panel trim causes the condition.

When the waterpump switch turns on, the amber "on" indicator on the other switch panels illuminates indicating the circuit is active. The green LEDs in the closet module also turn on and off when this happens. I can also hear relays clicking when this happens. 

I have tried the reboot using the salesman switch and house battery switches with no change. Disconnecting the mylox connector to the switch panel stops the errant self activations. This happens at random and has been going on for some time. 

Are there any methods to clean the internal switches or any other options to correct this strange issue? Thanks! Dan. 

BINGO....BEEN THERE.  DONE THAT.  This is commonly called a TACTILE ERROR or TACTILE Defect.

Only ONE THING to do....and I CHASED this for at least a year.  GET A NEW SWITCH PAD. BUT...yours is impacting TWO switches...and mine was ONE....

We have TWO folks can assist you.  One is @Frank McElroy and the other is @pwhittle They both can reprogram the switches.  Frank did mine and I'll elaborate on what a TACTICLE error or broken switch button is.  

I went through the USUAL...   and Paul Whittle is an expert.  DO WHAT HE SAYS.

I would also turn OFF all the Fluorescent Light CIRCUITS.  You can do that TWO ways.  FIRST there may (should) be a side switch on the light fixtures.  TURN THEM OFF.  The second is a bit OVER THE TOP...but it came from the one shop that was working on them. They said to PULL the FUSES on all the Fluorescent Light circuits.  You have a Label or Panel that shows ALL the circuits.  SO, pull the 10 Amp fuses.

NOW....the ISSUE.  That key pad MAY be a MODIFIED key pad.  There is one way to tell.  Since it has the PUMP circuit....it is a suspect for the MODIFED key pay.  IF it is the older style...and the earlier years had them....then it will have a special PUMP CIRCUIT connector.  There may be TWO Connectors.  One is the standard (3 Wire) Intellitec connector.  NOW, FWIW and many folks do NOT understand this.  There is a 3 wire circuit that runs the entire length of the MH.  Each Switch is actually attached....in parallel.  SO, removing or disconnecting that SWITCH does NOT impact any other switch.  The Key Pads are just plugged into the main line.

That Key Pad MAY have another TWO WIRE connector.  The way you VERIFY....other than removing it....Look at the PUMP SWITCH in the Wet Bay.  If it is a LIGHTED KEY PAD, then your Bathroom switch will be the standard, NOT MODIFIED, Key Pad.  BUT, if there is a "push button" stand alone Pump Switch....then there will be the extra TWO WIRES.  The key pad needs to be modified by whomever programs that replacement. They solder on the TWO leads.  SO, when you PUSH the wet bay switch....it is the same as pushing the Bathroom Key Pad Pump Button.  In reality....it is a Parallel Switch attached to it.  Frank McElroy had a spare switch and he modified or soldered on the two wires....with the proper end connector.  He then programmed the replacement for so it was the SAME codes or the same as the OEM switch.  WORKED GREAT.

NOW....again....follow Paul's advice.  Also pull or turn OFF (switches at the fixture or the fuses) ALL the fluorescent fixtures.  BUT, my Tactile Switch (which means....it will just come on.....like someone TOUCHED or pushed it) was a bugger to chase down.  THERE IS A LOT of stray RFI with faulty ballasts.  They DO drive the MPX crazy.  BUT....the errant switch would come on "whenever" it felt like it.

NOW....my GUT does say...PULL THE PANEL off the switch.  I KNOW this sounds screwy...but I would take a cloth or Q-Tip and put a DAB of WD-40 on it.  With the keypad cover off.  Gently and sparingly rub the WD40 around the key pad cover openings. Then around the outside of the switch housings.  SOMETIMES....they will stick....

The WD-40 will not hurt anything.  You MAY have the Module issue...as Paul points out.  ODDS ARE that TWO buttons have the Tactile issue are LOW.  SO, maybe it IS the module or the fluorescent ballasts.  BUT, an ill fitting key pad cover or one that is loose or not seated properly WILL cause issues.

That's it.  Frank did mine and Paul had also replaced and reprogrammed switches.  The TACTILE issue is very rare...but it IS a known issue

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for helping T/S path, I'll start working through the suggestions and report back. Question, are the modules that @pwhittle suggested as possible culprits available and do they need to be programmed? Attached is a picture of the module that has the aqua hot fan and water pump. I've tried removing the respective fuses and issue was still present. Thanks!

IMG_20240826_103852823.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, I have tried the following from the T/S recommendations above and the condition remains:

  •  Disconnected the plug for the water pump and AH Fan on the module pictured above. It's the upper R/H connector.
  • Turned off switches on ALL Florescent light fixtures. 

Some other info- if the water pump touch pads in the coach do not respond to momentary touching, the push button switch in the wet bay will turn the circuit on or off. This is a mechanical momentary rocker switch(Carling?).

Also, just touching the trim around the switch panel in the toilet room sometimes activates both the AH fan and water pump circuits. Maybe the condition Tom outlined above is my problem. I need to investigate the configuration of the Toilet room switch panel with respect to the water pump switch in the wet bay. 

Note, all checks accomplished with the coach disconnected from shore power. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...