Rthomp1122 Posted June 7 Share Posted June 7 We have a Dometic NDA1202 Refrigerator in our 08 Diplomat 40SKQ. The refrigerator side temp is adjustable and is working great on both Gas and electricity. we're having trouble with the freezer. It runs around 25 to 30 degrees, and it is not adjustable. It is supposed to come preset from the factory at 0 degrees when using elect. and 7 degrees when on gas. It was working fine until about a month ago. There are no codes We keep the coach plugged into shore power when sitting at home. Does anyone have any experience with this model? Thanks, Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96 EVO Posted June 8 Share Posted June 8 16 hours ago, Rthomp1122 said: We have a Dometic NDA1202 Does anyone have any experience with this model? Thanks, Rich Never heard of it. Thinking you may be talking NDA 1402? Is the fridge level where you park? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96 EVO Posted June 8 Share Posted June 8 https://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/dometic-freezer-temp-sensor-647379.html#post6798242 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diplomat don Posted June 9 Share Posted June 9 Don't know which Auburn your in but I would call ES Appliance Repair in Mesa AZ. Eric has been great to us and anyone we have recommended him too. Tells you straight up whether fixable or not. 480-207-8999 call or text. Good Luck, Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted June 9 Share Posted June 9 Assume you might mean the 1402. Had one. It was not always the coldest and was very vulnerable, as to recovery, when you loaded the fresh side. Replaced with a Samsung. DID a LOT of things to it to improve it.... Attached is the Service Manual...the latest one. You may or may not have run through the entire reset or reboot. That should give you some codes....or at least it did on mine on occasion. Do the complete reboot and diagnostic routine.... Good Luck. This is also in our FILES. Use Dometic as the Key Word Search. Two Choices... Click on Everywhere and choose FILES. Then you will find the manual there. BUT, if you want to search the TOPICS. Use the Following DOMETIC 1402 or DOMETIC FREEZER... maybe some others. This time us TOPICS and you will get all the topics and posts. Don't remember if this has come up, but this would be the best research approach here. BTW, if is a requirement of starting a new thread, to do a SEARCH. This is how you do it, for future reference. NEW & Released Dometic-NDA1402-Service-Manual.pdf 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patricia Ferrara Posted June 9 Share Posted June 9 Hello Rich, We also have the Dometic 1402 in our 2008 Diplomat (ice maker & dispenser died so we just recently removed both). We’ve also had some issues from time to time with both fridge & freezer not getting cold enough. Found that the automatic defrost cycle was not functioning, so we ended up with major frost on fins in fridge, & the freezer had solid ice in the top rear & right side. Took all day with a hair dryer to melt all of the ice & another 24 hours to get temps down enough to load in food. Long story short: make sure you don’t have frost/ice buildup, and that your defrost cycle is functioning. Otherwise, you will have to do as we now do, and start a manual defrost cycle on a regular basis to keep it running properly. Eventually, we’ll end up replacing it with a residential unit similar to one that Tom Cherry put in his. Best of luck! Patti Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rthomp1122 Posted June 10 Author Share Posted June 10 Thank you all for the help. I've got some research and testing to do. Oh! My bad! It is a Dometic 1402. (Fat Thumbs) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpasetto Posted July 19 Share Posted July 19 On 6/9/2024 at 12:29 PM, Tom Cherry said: Assume you might mean the 1402. Had one. It was not always the coldest and was very vulnerable, as to recovery, when you loaded the fresh side. Replaced with a Samsung. DID a LOT of things to it to improve it.... Attached is the Service Manual...the latest one. You may or may not have run through the entire reset or reboot. That should give you some codes....or at least it did on mine on occasion. Do the complete reboot and diagnostic routine.... Good Luck. This is also in our FILES. Use Dometic as the Key Word Search. Two Choices... Click on Everywhere and choose FILES. Then you will find the manual there. BUT, if you want to search the TOPICS. Use the Following DOMETIC 1402 or DOMETIC FREEZER... maybe some others. This time us TOPICS and you will get all the topics and posts. Don't remember if this has come up, but this would be the best research approach here. BTW, if is a requirement of starting a new thread, to do a SEARCH. This is how you do it, for future reference. NEW & Released Dometic-NDA1402-Service-Manual.pdf 3.05 MB · 5 downloads Hello Tom, Getting to the point with our Dometic NDA 1402 that I am planning replacement. I had replaced a Notcold 1200 with a Samsung RF197 years back so am thinking in that direction again. Looked over the 1402 to see how it differs from the 1200; I want to get it out with as less hassle as I can. Looks like step 1, after removing doors on the NDA 1402, is getting the plastic trim around it off; then Not sure what I'll find after that. Was there anything unusual/difficult in pulling out the 1402? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted July 21 Share Posted July 21 There are MEGA discussions about replacement here. I edited the title to have that as an option as there have not, memory, been any recent ones. Ordinarily if you searched, as below, you would have found info below and then started a new topic for you model. However, adding replacement is allowed due to the overall interest...as the gas units die.. Here is one searches.... Refrigerator Replacement in the search box. Click on Everywhere. Select Topics. This provides all the posts where those two terms are used. Here is the result. https://www.monacocoach.com/service-and-repairs/ Next, use Refrigerator and from Everywhere, choose Files. https://www.monacoers.org/search/?q=refrigerator&quick=1&type=downloads_file In the TOPICS, start scrolling and reading. The ones with 25 - 60 posts are chocked full of information. The FILES dates back to one of our founders. It also has information as you will need a DOOR LOCK...since none of the RES REF come with such. Having done mine...here is an bullet outline of what I know, others have posted, and my own experience. Measure MANY TIMES. You probably has an Aquahot. That simplifies it. The Res Ref were common in the 2008 Dynasty, so this is NOT as big a deal as early models. You have a subpanel, so you use the ICEMAKER receptacle. SIMPLE. Others in lower models have a more difficult issue in that the single GFCI controls the ICEMAKER. NOT GOOD. That is prone to tripping. RESEARCH IT. But the fix is to isolate the Icemaker line by pulling the LOAD Romex off the GFCI. Replace the GFCI, out of general maintenance, as well, as the AGE POORLY. If the OUTLETS near the sinks are on ONCE piece of Romex and the Icemaker is on the other (with other ones up front), then you move the ICEMAKER Romex to the LINE side. Problem solved. Still SAFE and meets NEC. The factory units, circa your year, came with a 2,800 Watt Inverter. The stock 2,000 Watt works. SO, USE IT. Most of the Modified (Magnum ME Series) work OK with the RES REF...Samsung is fine. Read the manual or call other vendors and ask is a PURE SINE WAVE inverter is required. REMOVE ALL THE INTERIOR insulation attached to the walls or the gas refrigerator. DO NOT PUT ANY insulation back. Air Circulation is needed for proper operation. The insulation was to keep your conditioned HVAC inside and prevent possible CO fumes. FOLLOWUP ON THE ABOVE. You have to INSULATE the Bottom Refer Access panel. Also the SIDE louvers, if they are in the side Frame. Simply...the NEW Energy Star REF were NOT DESIGNED for outdoor use...COMMON COMPLAINT. Lowes sells all sorts of Styrofoam insulation...and also Garage Door panels. Use a Serrated knife and cut blocks to go inside the louvers. A dab of Gorilla glue with laminate if you need more layers. When the Foam in the louvers is flush with the backside...you can use a THIN Panel of Styrofoam (cut out for the latches to work) and also metallic HVAC tape. Be Creative...we all have done this. Use a layer of tape on the backside of the frame if louvers are there. Do the TOP VENT, if you have one. Otherwise, pull the Roof Vent off and stuff in the PINK Stuff. You have GOT to shut off the outside air. NOW the sides and top and bottom must be CLEAR so that the interior conditioned HVAC air circulates. JUST LIKE AT HOME. MOST installers pull out a side window and use a lift and slide the refrigerator INSIDE...doors OFF. Some folks will manhandle in through the door...often having to pull the passenger seat. USE THICK Quilts (Packing) to pad the dash. Tape in place. Many have wedged them in and destroyed the dashes...but OTHERS do it with ease. Once inside and assembled...extend the SIDE, if on one, and then fit in the refer. NOW if NOT on a slide, the UPPER VENT on the side is your FRIEND. You have to secure through it. Pull out all the sheet metal as that was for the FLUE...not needed. Next is SECURING. Many ways. NEVER, EVER drill into the side panel of a modern refrigerator. COILS in there. I had a vertical strip (1X1) and then added a second on the other side. I used a short piece of SS (had that...Aluminum would work) of "ANGLE. I had TWO pieces of the angle. One was cut down so that when you would PULL, if needed, the RES REF out, the top of the angle would clear the top frame. USE 3M VHB tape, the CLEAR...not the Black Auto. Has more PEEL BACK (180 deg) strength. I used an Oak 1 X 1 that was the width of the interior compartment, less 1/2". Then it gets tricky to explain. You are going to put in the REFER. You put the cross piece on TOP of the refrigerator...and it goes or rests against the BACK SIDE of the Vertical side strips. OR just move the cross piece towards the front of the REF...and the side vertical strips with stop it. NOW...The Angle was maybe a 1" X 4". The angle fits UNDER the cross piece with the 1" side up. If you SLIDE each piece under the cross brace or piece.... A small squeeze clamp for small C clamps are used to keep the short side of the cross piece attached to the front side of the cross brace. NOW, with the Cross Piece pushed forward...against the vertical strips... MARK the FRONT EDGE of the ANGLE on top of the Refrigerator. BINGO. NOW pull it our. You then use Double Stick Tape and laminate the angle to the top. TOTALLY COVER IT. Then, you fit the cross piece in place. The ends are against the back edge of the Vertical pieces. The back edge or side of the angle is against the cross piece. Drill TWO Holes in the angle. Put in two #10 Wood screws (Hex head) and screw in. The REF is locked so it will NOT MOVE FORWARD. Then, dealer's choice on the back bottom. You can use angle on the sides or wooden blocks...just secure it so it doesn't move BACKWARDS or towards the outside wall. NOW...on MINE (the Camelots) the Dometic was on a SHELF. Then UNDER that shelf, on the inside, was a drawer. The shelf had to come out...so that the Samsung would fit. AGAIN...Plan and MEASURE. I KNEW that if the drawer was removed and the cross rail cut off flush with the sides of the cabinet frame...it would FIT. BUT, the installer FORGET to take it all OUT. He cut the shelf off and used it as a BACKSTOP for the Refrigerator. GREAT... OPPS... AIR Circulation. I used a 2 or 3" hole saw and cut holes, maybe with 1" separating the sides, on that shelf. AIR can circulate and all is well. NEVER, as they did back in the dark ages when a conversion was done....DO ANY FACADE or dressing up the front cabinet. THAT restricts air flow. Some folks had auto trim shops make up vinyl strips and such. Others made finished frames. BAD...DOUBLE BAD. The Refrigerator runs TOO HOT. Don't sweat the sides or top. ALLOW FOR AIR. Next, there is a file on DOOR Locks and many have fabricated. I chose to order one from Amazon. The individual that made them has a web site and we talked. https://www.rvtechmag.com/tech/91_fridgefixer.php https://www.facebook.com/FridgeFixer/ He is great. He now sells on Amazon. I will tell you, as many will, it WORKS and is easy to install. MANY folks use other methods....so whatever floats your boat. That's IT...now.. You WILL need to run the Genny about 2 hours every 24 Hours. You WILL need to replace, assuming you boondock or spend a night or so in a Walmart or other....the PUCK Lights. LED draws WAY LESS. You will NEED to operate the REFER on an ENERGY SETTING (reduced power). You will NEED to turnoff the ICEMAKER. Doing the above keeps your batteries a LOT stronger. You will be OK with a Four Bank House set...assuming, as usual, you maintain them. Here is a FILE on Battery in the Files section that describes how to get up to 10 years from Flooded. AGM is nice, but if you abuse or don't set the Inverter properly...they die quicker. LITHIUMS are a whole different planet... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpasetto Posted July 24 Share Posted July 24 I remember taking out a Norcold 1200... removing (prying?) the plastic trim around it exposed screws, if I recall. However on the Dometic NDA 402 there looks like the exterior trim piece wraps around behind the doors and, somehow? is fastened to the case of the refer. Any suggestions on how to pry the trim away to expose the screws... if there are any. Also where else it is fastened in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96 EVO Posted July 24 Share Posted July 24 Rick, I'm sure there are members that have removed that exact fridge, but they are not responding! I have that fridge, but I'm not prying off that trim piece just for a look! Hopefully bringing your thread back to the top will get a response. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpasetto Posted July 24 Share Posted July 24 28 minutes ago, 96 EVO said: Rick, I'm sure there are members that have removed that exact fridge, but they are not responding! I have that fridge, but I'm not prying off that trim piece just for a look! Hopefully bringing your thread back to the top will get a response. I thought someone would remember or have the installation docs... But I found it here, Instructions for installing into enclosure starts on page 5. The fastening locations ae not where I'd thought. Might be useful for others. https://documents.dometic.com/media/download/103912?templateId=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96 EVO Posted July 24 Share Posted July 24 Good find! Let's hope Monaco followed the manufacturers mounting directions, which I found while removing a Sharp microwave, they didn't always do! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted July 24 Share Posted July 24 12 hours ago, rpasetto said: I remember taking out a Norcold 1200... removing (prying?) the plastic trim around it exposed screws, if I recall. However on the Dometic NDA 402 there looks like the exterior trim piece wraps around behind the doors and, somehow? is fastened to the case of the refer. Any suggestions on how to pry the trim away to expose the screws... if there are any. Also where else it is fastened in? The Dometic slides OUT. You push it from behind or pull it out. There is NOT, at least on mine, any MONACO facade. Just an opening. Then you take off the doors. Then get it out (window recommended). Bring in the new one...doors OFF... Remove the insulation or the walls or if it was on the Dometic...it is GONE. Add the vertical strip...my "interior cabinet" had one...NO REASON..but it was what made mine WORK with thy custom designed brackets. The installer said that the shop (it was a BIG shop...maybe 30 bays) was going to do this from now on and they took pictures and a video. They were NOT aware of the need to INSULATE and close off the outside access panels. As long as you can SLIDE OUT or pull or get the Dometic out....go from there. YES...been there... MEASURED....designed the holding system....drew up a sketch....told the installer to use this..but if there was a better way...do it. It worked...the only issue was they did NOT cut the shelf that the Dometic was on correctly. They should have realized to take it all the way back to the outer wall. I saw that...and just fixed it myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottknight Posted July 24 Share Posted July 24 Just to mention I found from other document's solutions (Norcold) that changing the location of the clip on thermoststate from one fin to another changes the cooling in the freezer \refrigerator, freezer getting the first cold energy then the regulation is in the refregeration portion . There is a method to retrieve error codes from digital readout on front of refrigerator temp readout. My risk is the firebox on these units. I discovered color changes of inside liner when cleaning bottom bin inside refrigarator which looks to be close to location of propane firebox. At that time i increased the space between the firebox and the wall of the refrigarator and keep that lower bin full of water bottles ( not too proud of this solution water bottles fire suppression) but keep looking at the efficient of going electric only. I read where people remove slides\ windshields 2 piece and i need to replace gaskets due to age \ partial dissemble \ front door and remove passenger chair use moving blankets conversion kits ect. I have a window next to the front door that might work. I have also seen burned up MH carcasses parked. I do have concerns about propane refrigerators. May need chair lift for wife so i dont want to use window option yet. 05 Knight . 37 ft MH, furnace under refridgerator . The rv industry has made improvments in some of their products that help with decisions we as owners know it is how much $$ it takes to do it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpasetto Posted August 12 Share Posted August 12 Finally started the NDA1402 removal and shut off gas main. Now looking for the "Tee" that splits propane gas feed between the stove and refrig. Anyone know if there's a gas piping diagram available? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viper04 Posted August 13 Share Posted August 13 Attention All: Tom is dead center on target, highly recommend Replacement over mods and repairs. The wife and I were at East lake RV park in Kissimmee Fl in 2010. Our Dynasty had ALL recalls and safety mods installed by at that time,the factory Monaco dealer at the villages of Fl. They were a super top notch service center. I was getting my slides serviced and a new wyneguard sat system installed and couldn't help but notice that three coaches parked side by side in the service bay were getting new Samsung French door refrigerators installed. I enquired and found out about a known rash of not so cold NORCOLD (pun) units catching fire 🔥 I had already ran thru 2 ice makers and at that time, put the Samsung on the top of the coach, to do list. The following week our fridge litterly burned up half the coach total loss. Luckily, the wife and Dog and I,got out that night thru the smoke and grabbed the wallet and purse going out the door. I just couldn't stand custom ordered walnut cabinets burning 🥵 The neighbors called the fire and rescue. I used 2 of the provost size fire extinguishers I carried under the front bay next to the entrance door but the smoke and heat ran me out. Nevermind that the propane line was acting as a blow torch and I just had filled the coach propane tank up. Its an investment but I sleep sound and safe with the Samsung in our new to us at the time, 2000 Dynasty with Cherry cabinets and interior. I joined the lawsuit against NORCOLD but in 10 years have never heard a word from the firm representing the class action lawsuit with several hundred claims pending. REPLACE IS MY MOTTO for the double door NORCOLD 🔥 firetrap with ice maker, smoking from a real painfully hot experience, not to mention the mess with the insurance company claiming what was left was a delam issue (really give me a break, I just lost my favorite toy) I like my beer cold and my ice cream hard and ask anyone that has a residential and you'll get the same reply--should have done it sooner! and the love it Tim 2000 Ralph Lauren edition Dynasty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpasetto Posted August 13 Share Posted August 13 I agree with TIm. Years ago I had a Dynasty with a Norcold... one day my wife told me she smelled Ammonia. I shut the Norcold down and started the removal... This time it's a Dometic NDA1402, though. It's about "half out" now; thanks to Tom and others for advice. On 7/23/2024 at 9:16 PM, 96 EVO said: Good find! Let's hope Monaco followed the manufacturers mounting directions, which I found while removing a Sharp microwave, they didn't always do! Posting this for anyone else who plans a removal of the NDA1402. As it turned out, there were four front screws, two in the bottom... ... and two in the top .... But three screws in the base at the rear. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpasetto Posted August 13 Share Posted August 13 The NDA1402 is out of its "cubby", sitting on a dolly inside the coach. Will be taking it out as soon as my helper is available, probably this weekend. Then it's off to the trash. PM me if you're interested in parts or the whole thing. I located the gas pipe "tee" that splits off between stove and refer feeds. It's in the water compartment on the upper wall between the 'manablock' and the air tank for the water system. Monaco could not have made a tighter place to get into. I'm planning to remove the gas line going to the refer compartment and plug it off. Will appreciate suggestions from anyone who has done this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96 EVO Posted August 13 Share Posted August 13 8 minutes ago, rpasetto said: The NDA1402 is out of its "cubby", sitting on a dolly inside the coach. Will be taking it out as soon as my helper is available, probably this weekend. Are you pulling a window, or, trying to squeeze out the door? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpasetto Posted August 13 Share Posted August 13 (edited) 48 minutes ago, 96 EVO said: Are you pulling a window, or, trying to squeeze out the door? I measured, removed passenger seat. I should be able to get it out the front door once I remove door check strap. I was thinking about removing the refrigeration unit on the back. That'll make it lighter. Edited August 13 by rpasetto Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96 EVO Posted August 14 Share Posted August 14 One part of that fridge I know is sought after is the freezer ribbon defrost heaters! They aren't available anymore, and burn out frequently causing the dreaded E-13(?) error. I had to replace mine several years ago (luckily they were still available), and found the original with a kink in it, which will kill them! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viper04 Posted August 14 Share Posted August 14 Took my drivers side window assembly out. It's easiest to reseal. Laid cardboard ( what the new fridge was shipped in) on the floor and slid it to the front and got four of us to pick it up and pushed it up thru the drivers side window. Slid the counter depth French door Samsung up thru the drivers window and reversed the process. Be sure to cover and pad especially around the drivers cockpit. Put in a new window seal and calked. takes some work go slowly and you'll have no issues. You'll be amazed the difference now full gallons of milk and 2 liter sodas fit, no issues. Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96 EVO Posted August 14 Share Posted August 14 10 minutes ago, Viper04 said: Took my drivers side window assembly out. Heavy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viper04 Posted August 14 Share Posted August 14 Easy with 1 on each side and a guy on the ground in the middle. We put a ladder on each end of the window and I had a short 2X10 in between the ladder rungs to make like a small scaffolding. Again the turtle wins the race. Go slow and easy. I had a piece of carpet to lay the window on the ground. The ladder was in the way to lean it against the tdrivers side tire. we also had the pickup truck to put the NORCOLD in. I stripped it down doors off. put the new fridge up in the back of the truck and backed up to the coach. Myself and brother in law and 2 husky friends got it into the coach. put it on its side and slid like silk on the cardboard to the opening and it took some manhandling to walk it into the opening but we got er done. don't forget to let the airbags out. I did not remember and it just made things harder on us. Again just excited to fix a safety issue and have a for sure supply of frosty ones no mater how hot it was outside in July! Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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