Dometic NDA1402 (1202?) Freezer side not cold enough - Residential replacement questions?

[jimmcpheters]

We removed our NDA 1402 through the entry door after removing the co captain chair as well as the refrigerator doors, the cooling unit on the back and the metal frame around the top and sided of fridge with a Sawzall.  Walked it to entry door, put a 1/2 inch plywood ramp over entry steps and had a weightlifter at the bottom of the ramp that nearly got hurt when the thing finally started sliding down the ramp. There were 2 of us inside the coach. Replacement was a Haier 14.5 or 15.0 cf double door refrigerator with 2 slide out freezer doors below the refrigerator portion. Had to take out old floor, redo all insulation and cabinetry. Plugged it into old icemaker plug after putting a remote controlled outlet into the old receptacle.  The new Haier fit through entry door after removing its doors and both drawers and laying it on its side. 2 delivery guys got extra$$ to put it inside. Using bungee cords and cup hooks in cabinetry to keep doors and drawers closed til we find something better that we like.

Jim McPheters 08 Dip 40pdq

 

[rpasetto]

We finally got the NDA 1402 out, most of the power was my very strong grandson; I took the lighter part of the load, I think.  Right out the front door and onto my utility trailer.  If someone needs any parts, PM me; it's off to the dump first thing next week.

[Tom Cherry]

1 hour ago, rpasetto said:

We finally got the NDA 1402 out, most of the power was my very strong grandson; I took the lighter part of the load, I think.  Right out the front door and onto my utility trailer.  If someone needs any parts, PM me; it's off to the dump first thing next week.

DON'T BE TOO QUICK TO DUMP AND DISGUARD.  We salvaged the Bins or the TWO bottom Plastic trays.  I put two strips of WHITE Duct tape on the bottoms of the plastic Bins.  I then put two mating strips on the bottom glass shelf.  MY WIFE LOVES IT.  She keeps water in the RIGHT one and Soft Drinks (adult beverages as well) in the LEFT ONE.  We carry the bins inside and then fill them and tote them OUT... COLD.  The tape keeps them from sliding around.

I also SOLD, in 2017, on EBAY....ALL THE INTERIOR parts.  All the plastic clips and such and the racks.  If the ICEMAKER WORKS....it will bring $75.  I did NOT pull it out.  BUT, all the other hardware, less the two Plastic Bins or drawers were sold. I got over $200 out of them. If you go to Ebay, then put in Dometic 1402....there SHOULD be a LOT of ads.  They were SNAPPED UP Quick. I can't remember but I divided them up and sold the clips and such as a lot.  The shelves were divided.  Packaging was a piece of CAKE.  I just took a piece of cardboard and scored the inside and folded it over the shelves.  NO BIG DEAL.

I also know others that have pulled the MAIN Board (I don't remember if there is one main on or a main and a supplemental.  They go for about half the price (and you will NOT BELIEVE the replacement costs).  SO, if you want to recover several hundred $$ and are EBAY Conversant....it is like FREE MONEY.

Just passing this along.  Be sure to use the POWER COOL as well as the ENERGY setting....when boondocking and TURN OFF the icemaker when boon docking.

You are FINE with your POWER setup  The ICEMAKER circuit is on a STANDARD Breaker....due to the DUAL IN DUAL OUT Subpanel configuration.....so no TRIPPING due to the GFCI circuits.  MOST make the mistake of now reconfiguring the 20 A GFCI on the lower ends....USUALLY, you can move the ICEMAKER line to the LINE SIDE of the GFCI.  I have coached at least 25 in doing that and solved the false tripping issue...

Good LUCK..  Glad it is going well.  DO insulate the UPPER and LOWER Vent covers.  OTHERWISE, you LOSE all your HVAC AIR (Hot and Cold).  Also assumed you ripped off all the insulation....may have been on the REFER or sometimes on the side walls of the cavity.  THAT IS A MUST....NO INSULATION and Insulating the covers...

Thanks for the post.

[96 EVO]

4 hours ago, rpasetto said:

We finally got the NDA 1402 out, most of the power was my very strong grandson; I took the lighter part of the load, I think.  Right out the front door and onto my utility trailer.  If someone needs any parts, PM me; it's off to the dump first thing next week.

It made it out the door only removing the refrigerator doors?

[rpasetto]

9 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

It made it out the door only removing the refrigerator doors?

Correct. there was plenty of door clearance once the door check strap was removed.  It was tough going, mainly because the guy on the inside (me) had trouble lifting it high enough to get it at 45 degrees so it missed the dash and driver seat.  I only took the passenger seat off; taking the driver seat off might have made it a little easier.

[cbr046]

I had to remove the refrigerator doors or no way to get it out (Norcold 1200) or in (Dometic RM1350) through the entry door (with door strap removed).  I found it pretty easy to remove the seats.  Four bolts and done, and moving the drivers seat out of the way to make the turn made it a lot easier.

2 people muscling the beasts wasn't really enough.  We got it done but 3 would have been better.

- bob

 

[rpasetto]

39 minutes ago, cbr046 said:

I had to remove the refrigerator doors or no way to get it out (Norcold 1200) or in (Dometic RM1350) through the entry door (with door strap removed).  I found it pretty easy to remove the seats.  Four bolts and done, and moving the drivers seat out of the way to make the turn made it a lot easier.

2 people muscling the beasts wasn't really enough.  We got it done but 3 would have been better.

- bob

 

Yep, doing it with two was tough and my strength is not what it used to be.  At my age, I am happy to still be vertical.

THe NDA1402 weighs in at around 330 lb.  Taking doors off, icemaker and all the shelves out comes to about 100# so we're still handling about 230lb which I think is heavier than the Norcold 1200's.

 

[Rich Cutler]

I just had to throw in a comment to the thread.  I also, years back made the switch from the Norcold to Samsung and Frig-Fixer.  Love them both.  I used the driver side window, with hired help from the local RV shop to do the install.  I also use spring loaded shelf guards to insure at a stop nothing drops out unexpectedly.  These are removed quickly for stays and are reinstalled when we travel.   The Norcold was working, not the coldest refrigerator, but working acceptably.  We did all the recalls, but for peace of mind, pulled the unit (using the class action funds), and gave away whatever folks on this site wanted.  Only the electronics were taken.  I think a switch to residential is a great move, even for a boon docker.  We found at rallies that the refrigerator draw is minimal, and battery recharge is done in an hour or two.

Regards,

Rich Cutler, 2006 Windsor 

[MIRIAM]

On 6/9/2024 at 3:15 PM, Patricia Ferrara said:

Hello Rich,

We also have the Dometic 1402 in our 2008 Diplomat (ice maker & dispenser died so we just recently removed both). We’ve also had some issues from time to time with both fridge & freezer not getting cold enough. Found that the automatic defrost cycle was not functioning, so we ended up with major frost on fins in fridge, & the freezer had solid ice in the top rear & right side. Took all day with a hair dryer to melt all of the ice & another 24 hours to get temps down enough to load in food.

Long story short: make sure you don’t have frost/ice buildup, and that your defrost cycle is functioning. Otherwise, you will have to do as we now do, and start a manual defrost cycle on a regular basis to keep it running properly. Eventually, we’ll end up replacing it with a residential unit similar to one that Tom Cherry put in his.

Best of luck!

Patti

Hi Patti - I don't use my ice maker in my NDA1402 (wouldn't trust water) and want to remove for more space, but wasn't sure if it's as easy as unscrewing and taking it out.  Anything you can share for how you did it?  I'm currently defrosting (completely defrosting by shutting down for days while I'm away) and will reset the unit because we have been experiencing the not so cold freezer for a few days, which I know is due to high humidity and frost (august in FL) -- so, before we turn it back on to start cooling on Tuesday, I'd love any pointers.  And, you just run a manual defrost with no issues?  Daily?  Once I get past summer, it won't be so bad, but my first summer in the coach and wow - I'll end up with residential eventually, but $6K is too much to just spend for an inconvenience. Haha 

 

Edited August 23 by MIRIAM

[96 EVO]

Miriam, there's a little rectangular plastic cover on the back wall of the freezer, right above where the water comes out to fill the icemaker. Has one screw holding it on.

Remove it and check the two sets of wires that it covers, has plenty of sealant around the two holes. 

If those two holes aren't sealed well, that's warm, moist air entering the freezer, developing frost.

[Rich Cutler]

Miriam,

You will be surprised by how little the cost of a residential replacement is.  Of course, we had the head start of the $1000 class action lawsuit settlement, but for the quick cooldown and basically unlimited ice and reliable freezer and refrigeration, it is well worth the expense in my opinion and that of most all that converted.   Also, for us at the time, the removal of the fire hazard was the biggest benefit.  Check out the Samsung French door model, RF18 as I remember, using the FrigFixer to keep the door closed.  For us, the installation was $1000 and that included all labor, woodwork, window removal and replacement, and disposal of the Norcold.  I do not recall the total cost of the stainless RF18 refrigerator at the time.  Since it is an inverter compressor, it runs on modified sine wave.  Not sure about the newer models.

[MIRIAM]

31 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Miriam, there's a little rectangular plastic cover on the back wall of the freezer, right above where the water comes out to fill the icemaker. Has one screw holding it on.

Remove it and check the two sets of wires that it covers, has plenty of sealant around the two holes. 

If those two holes aren't sealed well, that's warm, moist air entering the freezer, developing frost.

I saw that box earlier while looking how to take the ice maker out.  I thought it may have been another thermistor (looks similar box) - I did see sealant, but will check that out tomorrow.  What do you recommend to seal better, even just as precautionary because it's good idea either way?

8 minutes ago, Rich Cutler said:

Miriam,

You will be surprised by how little the cost of a residential replacement is.  Of course, we had the head start of the $1000 class action lawsuit settlement, but for the quick cooldown and basically unlimited ice and reliable freezer and refrigeration, it is well worth the expense in my opinion and that of most all that converted.   Also, for us at the time, the removal of the fire hazard was the biggest benefit.  Check out the Samsung French door model, RF18 as I remember, using the FrigFixer to keep the door closed.  For us, the installation was $1000 and that included all labor, woodwork, window removal and replacement, and disposal of the Norcold.  I do not recall the total cost of the stainless RF18 refrigerator at the time.  Since it is an inverter compressor, it runs on modified sine wave.  Not sure about the newer models.

Wife went by a place here in Largo, FL the other day and they wanted $4K for the unit and $2K for the install.  I pulled the plug on that fast....and, I'll shop around.

you're not nervous about using the ice machine?  We buy (refill 5gal jug) a couple times a week with CG water being unreliable.  I've seen green at some and just don't trust it enough to drink or use for ice.  I do have great filtering, but still won't drink it.

how long ago was yours?  Didn't happen to be in FL perhaps, huh?  I could use some leads for honest places not trying to be too ridiculous for pricing.

[Rich Cutler]

Sorry, it was pre-covid, so memory is not that great.  I do remember the purchase was at Home Depot and had it delivered to the repair shop for our RV here in Conroe, TX.  We drink bottled water but use ice cubes our water supply.  We keep a supply of chilled bottles in the refrigerator.  Before we leave, I normally fill up with half tank of water, and that makes ice the day before in transit and overnight, gives us ice for a week or more.  If water is ugh, buy 10lb ice and fill the ice tub.  It holds a bunch.

[96 EVO]

23 minutes ago, MIRIAM said:

I saw that box earlier while looking how to take the ice maker out.  I thought it may have been another thermistor (looks similar box) - I did see sealant, but will check that out tomorrow.  What do you recommend to seal better, even just as precautionary because it's good idea either way?

 

I just made a couple little balls of butyl off of a roll of butyl tape I had.

Worked great, and I was able to use the ice maker again, without a big block of ice forming on the back wall 👍!

[MIRIAM]

7 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

I just made a couple little balls of butyl off of a roll of butyl tape I had.

Worked great, and I was able to use the ice maker again, without a big block of ice forming on the back wall 👍!

Thanks for the tip.  I definitely have that problem and, last week, when we first discovered the issue, the ice tray was completely'stuck' and iced over (couldn't get it out) against that back wall.  I took a hair dryer for a while to thaw the ice along the back wall and over to the right where air comes out with fins/vent, but I'm guessing I didn't thaw it all (couldn't see behind that side wall)  it was a lot of ice.... A LOT....so, this time, I'm letting ut sit for 2-3 days and will do a hard reset/reboot when I start it up on Tuesday.  Praying that does the trick.....I'll do the sealing, remove the ice machine and start thawing daily going forward.  I pray this buys me a couple years before I'm ready for residential upgrade.  I've just gotta find one reasonably priced and less than $2K to install - that's just ridiculous.

7 hours ago, Rich Cutler said:

Sorry, it was pre-covid, so memory is not that great.  I do remember the purchase was at Home Depot and had it delivered to the repair shop for our RV here in Conroe, TX.  We drink bottled water but use ice cubes our water supply.  We keep a supply of chilled bottles in the refrigerator.  Before we leave, I normally fill up with half tank of water, and that makes ice the day before in transit and overnight, gives us ice for a week or more.  If water is ugh, buy 10lb ice and fill the ice tub.  It holds a bunch.

Thanks - I'm going to shop around and it's on the shortlist for the next couple years.  I thought about using the ice machine (putting bought ice in) the same way and just decided to buy a countertop ice machine for as little as we use anyway.  I only use a little bit each day in summer because I prefer my water chilled or room temperature, not cold.  So far, this seems to do the trick and we are in August, so won't get hotter than this 🤣🤣

Edited August 23 by MIRIAM