Chad A Posted June 11 Author Share Posted June 11 Thanks again for all the good advice. I want to make sure I am clear on one thing. The threads just hold the fitting into the pump, the nut with the gasket is what creates the seal correct? If I can get the hose tight and then lock the nut tight I should be good. Please correct me if I am wrong in my thinking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan K Posted June 11 Share Posted June 11 2 minutes ago, Chad A said: Thanks again for all the good advice. I want to make sure I am clear on one thing. The threads just hold the fitting into the pump, the nut with the gasket is what creates the seal correct? If I can get the hose tight and then lock the nut tight I should be good. Please correct me if I am wrong in my thinking. Yes. The oring is the only seal. There are typically no torque settings for boss oring as there should be a mechanical stop. Just make sure the oring is good, should be boss type even tho for just an emergency repair anything goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad A Posted June 11 Author Share Posted June 11 Do I even need to mess with trying to thread that fitting back into the pump? Will straps hold it enough. Do I need to use loctite etc? Just get the fitting in there and strapped down as tight as possible and then tighten the oring? Make sure it won’t go anywhere and hope for the best. Is there any pressure in this side of the pump? It seems to be gravity fed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vito.a Posted June 11 Share Posted June 11 Yes, you need to thread the elbow back into the pump deep enough to catch some undamaged threads. The deeper the better. Clean the elbow and pump internal threads well. Use some Loctite 545 hydraulic sealant or even JB Weld. https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Pneumatic-Hydraulic-Sealant-36-Milliliter/dp/B003XZB54O/ref=sr_1_2?crid=11F7E35V8RD7Q&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.vKWo9CSsDWCS6wdn9swOuGS-xHDwW2cBePvi1Sw3epAQ_TBhcTcS35Ue9aTH8CSFCtReHz4dHz4qP6ONt1CcWh27GmoZnJYW79bWPWij_fxWbK3DjF5Rde4Ex11HSopi38N_ZmuxGWk_Y5AX11MHY0QLj6xN4M2ejqGy32OwoJqVDDHbB61klrKhUKbFtsklqK5gU2Gqur2SnmVHKoj0gNLIIUZc3SGcSU3kGKv9Qa0.W9lemA8kZJzunIP2bF2gb-qyKhjvtP8qe-NivA5aUEo&dib_tag=se&keywords=hydraulic+sealant&qid=1718120191&sprefix=hydraulic+seal%2Caps%2C73&sr=8-2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craggar Posted June 11 Share Posted June 11 2 hours ago, Tom Cherry said: I had to do a LOT of analysis of Loctite as Ford wanted us (we made carburetors) to use it on some critical applications. In addition, we had to do gauge control adjustments and needed to be be able to LOCK down a gauge...but then adjust or calibrate it later on.... I was also in charge of Maintenance and had to help decide DO WE REALLY WANT TO USE LOCTITE.... Here is what I know... Green. You can always BREAK this loose. Green is used, as we recommend it, for electrical fitting. That means it is in the 4 - 5 FOOT POUNDS (the ATS Terminals are where it is to be used....you put about 40 Inch Pounds). It is mean for vibration, as in a fastener or fitting like an electrical one...or one you can pull apart. An average man could easily break loose GREEN (like on an electrical terminal) with a BIG handle Screwdriver (wrapped with a rough shop towel). Blue... That is used for a SEMI Permanent application. Such as a bolt or fastener that is hand tightened...or you use normal wrenches or short ratchets. You can (PER LOCTITE) break the joint loose with normal hand tools... like a longer ratchet or even with a long handled combo wrench. RED. The PERMANENT. This is recommended, for us, for installing the Base Plates on the Toad or critical components on the suspension (think adding a Watts Link or a steering stabilizer. READ "can be broken with an IMPACT wrench and or HEATING". My Carburetor company always used RED on the gauges. BUT, this was on very small fasteners. SIMPLE. We had a 150 Watt soldering iron. Put that on a 1/4" allen head or a bolt. 30 seconds later....it is liquid. I ONCE made the mistake of using RED on a Telescopic mount on a rifle. NEVER AGAIN.. BLUE. BUT, I used a small propane pencil torch. BINGO removed easily... That's MY Loctite knowledge and experience....over 30 years... Not disagreeing with you because I’m no expert but I do know that our service truck guys used it in a pinch and it usually worked. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vito.a Posted June 11 Share Posted June 11 Loctite products are designed to be disassembled using heat. A heat gun on high usually works well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benjamin Posted June 11 Share Posted June 11 yes, there's a chance of contaminating the hydraulic system, it could already be contaminated by being open while driving for whatever distance, and whatever fell in already. If you were doing this on your own without the service guy, then putting it back with tape and a hose clamp or ratchet straps, OR removing the nut, washer and oring and screwing it in deeper, would both be reasonable emergency fixes. With the service guy there, a big part depends on his skill level and tools available. Long term, I agree that hose is too stiff, that pump was designed for a hose barb and suction hose, not a stiff hydraulic hose and strong fitting. I would probably get an extended ORB fitting made up, locktite it in place, with a short straight hose barb and a spiral wire suction hose instead of threaded two wire hydraulic hose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad A Posted June 11 Author Share Posted June 11 Mobile guy is picking up fittings at the hydraulic store now before he heads this way. I should know in an hour or so what fix we will go with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad A Posted June 11 Author Share Posted June 11 So, the only way to put that fitting back in is to take the pump out. It won’t turn because it hits the transmission. The mechanic took the pump out, which took about 15 minutes, but could not get the fitting off the end of the hose. He is going to drill and tap new threads and look for a new fitting for it, while also grabbing the correct tools to get the existing fitting off. What a nightmare. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoadTripper2084 Posted June 11 Share Posted June 11 Well, if nothing else it sounds like you've gotten ahold of skilled mechanic who should be able to properly resolve your issue. And this is an excellent life-lesson for your daughter, that sometimes things don't go as planned and it's important to face adversity head-on, etc. etc. 😁 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad A Posted June 11 Author Share Posted June 11 The mechanic just texted me that he is making some brackets to mount to the pump to hold the fitting in place in case the threads give way. It sounds like he has a plan. My daughter has been through this before, we lost the lift pump in Montana a few years ago! She just wants to get back to school to finish her finals! Thanks for all the help and encouragement. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benjamin Posted June 11 Share Posted June 11 39 minutes ago, Chad A said: The mechanic just texted me that he is making some brackets to mount to the pump to hold the fitting in place in case the threads give way. Maybe he gave up on the new fitting and threads, and decided to go with putting that fitting back deeper? In his hands now. I'll watch to see how it turns out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted June 11 Share Posted June 11 You should consider covering the area in case the hose blows loose. Could have a potential for hydraulic oil hitting exhaust, not a good situation. If you travel with a small portable grill maybe the lid would fit. If you can get the fitting to thread further into the port and get the O-ring nut snugged down you might get lucky but I've seen similar failures and never had any luck improvising a temporary fix. Oil is probably in excess of 2500 psi and can play havoc. After you get it connected and ready to test don't put your hand down around it feeling for leaks. A small pin hole leak in a hydraulic line can be injected under the skin, not pretty and requires major surgery with long recover. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad A Posted June 11 Author Share Posted June 11 Luckily it is on the low pressure side. The threads on the fitting were pretty bad too. He was confident that he could tap the new threads but not confident in being able to find a new 90 elbow for it. The strapping is a just in case I hope. I want to get home where I can fix it right. I don’t need to be $1000 lighter and have the same problem crop up an hour after I set off down the road. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Cole Posted June 12 Share Posted June 12 (edited) Chad if your mechanic is going to remove the pump then I would suggest that he separate the end housing and braze the fitting in place. Sounds like your pump is good so this would be a permanent fix for you for the life of the pump. Brazing is relatively simple such that even I can do it. Good luck. Edited June 12 by Gary Cole 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad A Posted June 12 Author Share Posted June 12 Just got home, the fix held. He chased the threads, we backed the nut off all the way down so we could get to the last good thread. He cleaned everything with brake cleaner. Blew it out with compressed air. Added some sticky stuff to the threads. Screwed it all the way in. Tightened the nut, put a hose clamp around it for extra protection. It felt pretty solid. Didn’t leak a drop the entire way. Now I need to tear into the entire system. While under there noticed a drip from the PTO where it attaches to the tranny and some really bad sealant job on it. Source a new pump, get a new hydraulic line made and then get it all out back together. By the way, if you are ever broke down along I84 in Oregon between Hood River and Pendleton I highly recommend Stanton Towing and Repair. He was honest, did a good job, checked in on us last night when he couldn’t make it out, asked if we needed anything from town this morning before he came in, did not overcharge and was very competent. He worked quickly and did a good job. He listened to me and asked questions so we worked together on the best solution for the supplies we had access to. Great guy Josh Thank you to you all for your help and support, a lot of ideas that I puke not have come up with on my own and we discussed about all of them. 8 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmw188 Posted June 12 Share Posted June 12 That’s great to hear, always good to hear a happy ending.🍻 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted June 12 Share Posted June 12 6 hours ago, Chad A said: Just got home, the fix held. He chased the threads, we backed the nut off all the way down so we could get to the last good thread. He cleaned everything with brake cleaner. Blew it out with compressed air. Added some sticky stuff to the threads. Screwed it all the way in. Tightened the nut, put a hose clamp around it for extra protection. It felt pretty solid. Didn’t leak a drop the entire way. Now I need to tear into the entire system. While under there noticed a drip from the PTO where it attaches to the tranny and some really bad sealant job on it. Source a new pump, get a new hydraulic line made and then get it all out back together. By the way, if you are ever broke down along I84 in Oregon between Hood River and Pendleton I highly recommend Stanton Towing and Repair. He was honest, did a good job, checked in on us last night when he couldn’t make it out, asked if we needed anything from town this morning before he came in, did not overcharge and was very competent. He worked quickly and did a good job. He listened to me and asked questions so we worked together on the best solution for the supplies we had access to. Great guy Josh Thank you to you all for your help and support, a lot of ideas that I puke not have come up with on my own and we discussed about all of them. GREAT. Don’t sweat the hydraulic system and any minute contamination. Any excess sealer (sticky stuff) will dissolve and be 0.0001% or so of the total volume. Now, if he had dumped in a can or two of the “miracle” (some say miracle it runs after you add that crap) sealers for oil and transmission and such….yes, BUY LOTTERY TICKETS. You can PICK ‘EM. Happy trails….you’re good to go… 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgecederholm Posted June 12 Share Posted June 12 I’ve held off replying until the short-term fix was in place. In terms of replacement, I’d say that your CPB-1033 was replaced once already as it has the QCC label (original would have been Sauer Danfoss). I replaced mine in early 2022 directly from QCC by phone. Recommend you call them as web searching may not deliver the quickest results. Another member here, Rick N, found another option in 2020-2021 at a place called Farwest Hydraulics, I think somewhere in SoCal. I think that they figured out a way to modify a more common pump (Parker?) to fit the original connections, orientation, and location. You might try researching them. In terms of the PTO, I tried having the seals done but there was still an issue (cracked housing) and I ended up using an outfit called PTO Sales out of Fontana, CA. I think they’ve been absorbed by a larger company but may still be operating these days. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad A Posted June 12 Author Share Posted June 12 Thanks George. That is a great direction to point me in for both the pump and the pto. I will be calling them The pump that I have was date coded 2017 so it did not last long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HHITom Posted June 13 Share Posted June 13 Call visone in KY for the part. They are the largest salvage yard in the USA. Ask for jimmy. Very knowledgeable. 606-843-9889 visonerv.com tom treharne 843-540-3535 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted June 13 Share Posted June 13 1 hour ago, HHITom said: Call visone in KY for the part. They are the largest salvage yard in the USA. Ask for jimmy. Very knowledgeable. 606-843-9889 visonerv.com tom treharne 843-540-3535 If I purchased a used pump and such, I’d make sure that I had a good hydraulic repair shop lined up and get it rebuilt. They will also check the clearances and such…and if it is worn past rebuilding….make sure you can return it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad A Posted June 17 Author Share Posted June 17 UPDATE 6/17 I reached out to QCC pumps this morning. They still manufacture the CPB-1033 pump that I have. That is the good news. The bad news is the cost of the pump is $1595.50!! I am thinking about taking my pump to a hydraulics shop and seeing what they think about taping a bigger intake and going with a larger fitting and new hoses. The pump works fine so I would like to save some cash if possible. Is there a downside to this plan? Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted June 17 Share Posted June 17 23 minutes ago, Chad A said: UPDATE 6/17 I reached out to QCC pumps this morning. They still manufacture the CPB-1033 pump that I have. That is the good news. The bad news is the cost of the pump is $1595.50!! I am thinking about taking my pump to a hydraulics shop and seeing what they think about taping a bigger intake and going with a larger fitting and new hoses. The pump works fine so I would like to save some cash if possible. Is there a downside to this plan? Thank you The DOWNSIDE...Your pocketbook will NOT BE DOWNSIZED. If a good shop and find one that most of the lift truck and construction companies and repair shops trust....will do it...and they can get parts...then let them do it. I WOULD...but that' my Heavy Scottish DNA... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan K Posted June 17 Share Posted June 17 I would do it too, maybe there is a helicoil of that size, don't know but they do work and this is not a sealing thread. They might also have or can fabricate a screw-in insert to reuse the hose. Probably a number of ways to work around it for much less. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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