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Magnum Inverter/charger gremlin/issue


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I purchased my 08 dynasty new.  I am the original and only owner.  I have never had a problem with the inverter/charger until recently.  As a prelude, I never used the inverter function.   We are always pulgged in to shore power or on the generator.  If you are familiar with the wiring, the a/c power goes first to the transfer switch then to the main panel;  from there there are two 30 amp lines that go to the inverter; from the inverter/charger two 30 amp lines go to the subpanel which of course has the circuits that work off the inverter when it is engaged.  When there is shore power or genny power the inverter "power in" circuits  simply bypass the inverter/charger and go directly to the subpanel.  If there is no ac power coming in to the coach then the inverter switches to dc power and "inverts" it to ac power to the subpanel.  Here is my problem;  while plugged in two weeks ago there was a torrential rainstorm.  While I still had ac power coming into the coach (all non subpanel circuits were working) the circuits in the subpanel quit;  there was no ac power coming to them from the inverter.  Keep in mind there was ac power going into the inverter but none coming out.  (I checked with a volt meter after tqking the side panel off the inverter).  Now to solve the problem temporarily (becasue the fridge iis on the subpanel) I simply bypassed the inverter by taking the hot in lines and commecting them directly to the lines going to the sub panel.  Now I left it like that for several dry days then reconnected the lines back to the inverter and voila it worked for a week.  Then came another rainstorm and the problem resurfaced.  I talked to some folks at Magnum and after doing a few tests they concluded I need a new inverter.  i hate to do this if there is a simple solution--especially after the d*** thing worked for a week with no problems.  Then it rained.  Anybody  have a similiar problems or am I doomed to buy a new one.  Oh, and when I bypassed the inverter, I loose my battery charge function so I am on external chargers.

 

Thanks and sorry for the lengthy post but I felt I needed to explain

 

Bob L, 08 dynasty

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I'm wondering if it is a humidity issue, a failing internal transfer switch relay / pin breaker, an issue with the control board or a control software glitch.

Have you already done a hard reset?

Has the pin circuit breaker on the Magnum ever tripped?

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Bob, during the rain storm did the inverter on board circuit breaker trip? Assuming the inverter is not getting wet it sounds like you may have a inverter component that is effected by humidity. As a test you might place an open bowl of water or perhaps if you have a portable steamed or steam iron you can place in the bay with the inverter, when it is working to to see if the moisture causes the inverter to cut out. Sadly, inverter companies are quick to recommend replacement once out of warranty and unless you are lucky enough to be near the mfg or their service center the cost of shipping makes repair not cost effective.

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3 hours ago, Frank McElroy said:

I'm wondering if it is a humidity issue, a failing internal transfer switch relay / pin breaker, an issue with the control board or a control software glitch.

Have you already done a hard reset?

Has the pin circuit breaker on the Magnum ever tripped?

Frank:  I did a hard reset to no avail;  the circuit breaker on the Magnum did not trip.  The inverter is mounted (upside down) on the roof of the first bay after the fuel tank and there has been no moisture in that bay.  I just don't know since it worked perfect after a few dry days then stopped after the rainstorm we had down here yesterday.  I am not that familiar with the internal workings of the inverter but I assume there is an internal transfer switch that switche to battery inut when there is no ac input.  However I had ac input to the inverter but it would not allow the ac  to "pass through" to the subpanel.  When  I bypassed the inverter completely no problem everything on the subpanel worked.  Of course I no longer have the charger function thus the external trickle chargers.  I guess there is a failure of an internal compotent.  A new one costs $2,000.00 so I guess I am going to have to suck it up and make the purchase.

Thanks,  Bob L

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Well, as one who thinks he has "heard it all" on the Magnums...  I am also surprised.  NOW, my fix would be (Cheap OLD ME is talking).

Since you are obviously electrically literate...and scored high on your "Forum Electrical Section"...as in you KNOW about the Dual IN and DUAL OUT and know what a VOM is...  Here is my logic.

First.  Totally Bypass the Inverter.  You are doing that, essentially now.  TAKEE APARTEE.  I would get inside and then use WD-40 and spray the ATS ( I can't recall if it is a relay on the board or whatever. You can identify it....you can also good Magnum Circuit Board Repairs.  There are YouTubes and such. I would also spray the Two Circuit Breakers.  Since you did not, I THINK, specify that only ONE of the OUTPUTS was going, then, I agree with Frank...it is in the internal ATS.  The WD-40 was a NASA product.  NOW, for those that are PURISTS, then you CAN spray with a light duty Electronic Parts (NOT ELECTRICAL) cleaner and a smidge of compressed air.  Folks think that the small amount of the kerosene based WD-40 will wreak havoc....never has for me.

THEN...  Reinstall.  THIS, in effect, is also a HARD RESET.  The older techs, unfortunately that are not longer on the phones at Magnum, said to leave the inverter OFF for an hour...not the OK, turn back on.

So, that is about ALL you can do.  ONE THING...  You can use the TECH setting for and see, if it happens again, what the temps look like.  Monitor it and write down all of them (2 or 3?) and then see if there is an elevated situation when, or hopefully, NEVER trips out again.

I would ALSO use a hand lens and a good LED light and look at the back traces and the method (soldering NOT SMD) on the relay or ATS.  Maybe just a smidge of corrosion....and then when it gets humid again...it GOES OUT.  Also, while you are in there.... are the FANS working and free wheeling.  IF NOT, then they might be an item to replace.

That's about it...  Please keep us posted.  I have helped at least 10 or so members salvage their Magnum's...so maybe there is a bit of luck left in my tool bag...but the HUMIDITY kills it is a bit of an issue...

OK....got CURIOUS.  We are FAMOUS.  This showed up from GOOGLE...

Scroll down to the Jan 29 Post by RICK.  BINGO.  Guess what he found.  I would do some SERIOUS looking while in there...

Good LUCK.

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3 hours ago, 1nolaguy said:

Bob, during the rain storm did the inverter on board circuit breaker trip? Assuming the inverter is not getting wet it sounds like you may have a inverter component that is effected by humidity. As a test you might place an open bowl of water or perhaps if you have a portable steamed or steam iron you can place in the bay with the inverter, when it is working to to see if the moisture causes the inverter to cut out. Sadly, inverter companies are quick to recommend replacement once out of warranty and unless you are lucky enough to be near the mfg or their service center the cost of shipping makes repair not cost effective.

The circuit breaker did not trip;  I weighed (cost wise) the idea of trying for a repair but as you say the idea is not cost effective.  Shipping is tough since the thing is not light.  Thanks for your suggestion.  I will give it a try when things dry out;  unfortunately if it is moisture I don't know the solution since there is no humidity in the bay.  Just very aggravating since I have never had a problem with it since I bought the coach almost 16 years ago.

 

Bob L

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11 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Well, as one who thinks he has "heard it all" on the Magnums...  I am also surprised.  NOW, my fix would be (Cheap OLD ME is talking).

Since you are obviously electrically literate...and scored high on your "Forum Electrical Section"...as in you KNOW about the Dual IN and DUAL OUT and know what a VOM is...  Here is my logic.

First.  Totally Bypass the Inverter.  You are doing that, essentially now.  TAKEE APARTEE.  I would get inside and then use WD-40 and spray the ATS ( I can't recall if it is a relay on the board or whatever. You can identify it....you can also good Magnum Circuit Board Repairs.  There are YouTubes and such. I would also spray the Two Circuit Breakers.  Since you did not, I THINK, specify that only ONE of the OUTPUTS was going, then, I agree with Frank...it is in the internal ATS.  The WD-40 was a NASA product.  NOW, for those that are PURISTS, then you CAN spray with a light duty Electronic Parts (NOT ELECTRICAL) cleaner and a smidge of compressed air.  Folks think that the small amount of the kerosene based WD-40 will wreak havoc....never has for me.

THEN...  Reinstall.  THIS, in effect, is also a HARD RESET.  The older techs, unfortunately that are not longer on the phones at Magnum, said to leave the inverter OFF for an hour...not the OK, turn back on.

So, that is about ALL you can do.  ONE THING...  You can use the TECH setting for and see, if it happens again, what the temps look like.  Monitor it and write down all of them (2 or 3?) and then see if there is an elevated situation when, or hopefully, NEVER trips out again.

I would ALSO use a hand lens and a good LED light and look at the back traces and the method (soldering NOT SMD) on the relay or ATS.  Maybe just a smidge of corrosion....and then when it gets humid again...it GOES OUT.  Also, while you are in there.... are the FANS working and free wheeling.  IF NOT, then they might be an item to replace.

That's about it...  Please keep us posted.  I have helped at least 10 or so members salvage their Magnum's...so maybe there is a bit of luck left in my tool bag...but the HUMIDITY kills it is a bit of an issue...

OK....got CURIOUS.  We are FAMOUS.  This showed up from GOOGLE...

Scroll down to the Jan 29 Post by RICK.  BINGO.  Guess what he found.  I would do some SERIOUS looking while in there...

Good LUCK.

Thanks Tom:  I did look at the post and pic by Rick.  That will be my next step;  take the cover off and "see what I can see".  I have electrical contact cleaner as well as the standby WD.  Hopefully the problem will be staring me in the face. Or not.  As I mentioned to Frank I assume there is an internal transfer switch and that may have corrision.  Anyway, the saga continues and I will keep you posted as to what I find.

 

 

bob L, 08 dynasty

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Bob

If you’ve never made use of the inverter in 16 years why would you consider spending $2000 to replace it? How many sets of batteries have you wasted money on in 16 years? Bypass the inverter and get rid of the batteries. When/if you decide to sell you could spend the money and sell it with brand new inverter and batteries thereby enhancing your sale price.

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46 minutes ago, MurrayD said:

Bob

If you’ve never made use of the inverter in 16 years why would you consider spending $2000 to replace it? How many sets of batteries have you wasted money on in 16 years? Bypass the inverter and get rid of the batteries. When/if you decide to sell you could spend the money and sell it with brand new inverter and batteries thereby enhancing your sale price.

I think you are still going to need coach batteries even if you don't have/use an inverter.  They power a lot of stuff (lights, water pump, thermostats for heat-A/Cs) etc.  I agree you could remove the inverter and in its place install a smart battery charger to maintain the batteries, but he will still require some coach battery power.

  -Rick N.

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2 minutes ago, waterskier_1 said:

I think you are still going to need coach batteries even if you don't have/use an inverter.  They power a lot of stuff (lights, water pump, thermostats for heat-A/Cs) etc.  I agree you could remove the inverter and in its place install a smart battery charger to maintain the batteries, but he will still require some coach battery power.

  -Rick N.

100% CORRECT.  Rick NAILED it.

All the interior lights, water pump, exhaust fans, etc are 12 VDC.  Get rid of the Inverter...and then bypass or wire the internal outlets directly.... YES...that would work.  Folks do it an emergency.

BUT...  You WILL have to have batteries....and they WILL have to be charged...unless you get a GOOD 3 Phase or Step Charger.  MAYBE you will run your engine.  Also, in the 2008 Dynasty, the Chassis Start the Genny.  OPPS....if they go down....you are DEAD in the water...NO GENNY...NO START.

You can NOT put in a large enough "120 VAC Powered" Converter....to 12 VDC to start the engine...

So, Batteries are a NECESSITY...  BUT, one could spend several hundred dollars....or maybe MORE for a nice charger.  Put in a cheap $50 Charger and you will boil the batteries and they will be toast in a few months. 

SO...  Just understand, as Rick points out... WHY we have the NICE Inverter Charger... 

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Magnum has an extensive repair network as well as parts available.  I've had Magnum inverter repairs performed both on the east coast and in Tucson AZ.  

Where are you located?  

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On 6/20/2024 at 10:07 AM, MurrayD said:

Bob

If you’ve never made use of the inverter in 16 years why would you consider spending $2000 to replace it? How many sets of batteries have you wasted money on in 16 years? Bypass the inverter and get rid of the batteries. When/if you decide to sell you could spend the money and sell it with brand new inverter and batteries thereby enhancing your sale price.

Murray:  For all the reasons Rick and Tom said, I need house batteries for lights, water pump, thermostats, etc.  Wish it was simple as geting rid of batteries.  I intend to take it apart this weekend and " see what I can see".  Hopefully something simple.

 

Bob L, 08 dynasty

On 6/20/2024 at 11:18 AM, vito.a said:

Magnum has an extensive repair network as well as parts available.  I've had Magnum inverter repairs performed both on the east coast and in Tucson AZ.  

Where are you located?  

Vito:  I am located south of New Orleans a few miles.  The nearest repair facility I could find was in Tennessee.  If you know of one closer please let me know.  I intend to take it apare this weekend and if I can't find the problem then I will have to choose between getting a new one or trying repair.  Thanks for your suggestions.

 

Bob L, 08 dynasty

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18 hours ago, MurrayD said:

Bob, all those could easily be run from your chasis batteries.

Yes…anything can be done with enough “creativity”.  But, you are going to be more than upset when you camp for a while and then the chassis is dead and you can’t start the engine.

From a “Forum Staff” perspective where we add footnotes or caveats….trying to be creative and recommending something that goes against the original design and manufacturer’s prints and build and traditional logic is footnoted with….the following caveat.

Eliminating house batteries and an inverter is not recommended.  Do this at your own peril and the staff and site are not liable for any damages or lack of functionality of other adverse effects.

Let’s move on to solving the issue as the poster requested and then suggested again...

Thanks….
 

 

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19 hours ago, vito.a said:

Try this web site: Sales & Service Locator | Magnum Dimensions (magnum-dimensions.com)

You can try these guys, but they may just be distributors: Stepper RV Services, Harvey LA, Phone: 504-361-7744

Houstin TX or Whitehouse TN may be your closest service center.  

Good luck!

 

Thanks:  unfortunately, Stepper, which is only about 5 miles from me, closed their doors last year.  The Houston or TN service centers are almost equidistant so if necessary I will try them.

18 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Well, at minimum you could get by with one 12V house battery.

You will still need your two 12V chassis batteries!

Correct, but then you would have the issue of charging them.  I am going to try to solve my problem this weekend or shell out the $$$ for a new one.  Thanks,

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11 minutes ago, Bobbyboy said:

Thanks:  unfortunately, Stepper, which is only about 5 miles from me, closed their doors last year.  The Houston or TN service centers are almost equidistant so if necessary I will try them.

Correct, but then you would have the issue of charging them.  I am going to try to solve my problem this weekend or shell out the $$$ for a new one.  Thanks,

Bottom line....YES, we need to focus on getting your issue resolved....

Second.  Based on what I know and have read and has been reported.  If the Board's ATS is toast... Just found this.

@Frank McElroy Don't think we have this in the files....might be a good addition. So, as step by step, should you need it on getting the board out....WELLL GUESSSS WHATTTT?

OK....my curiosity is well known....  Here is something that might be of real value....  I had NOT seen this done before nor remember reading about it.

I am not the expert of desoldering...but have replaced many components and rebuilt power supply boards on LED TV's.  I would be worth giving this a try.  I have a nice Weller soldering station.  You don't need the really nice vacuum desoldering iron....you purchase the dewicking mesh and that will "suck up" the excess solder and leave the board ready for popping in the new relays.

I worked for the Cooper Hand Tools division and was their "on site" consultant for a variety of areas. I spent a LOT of time in the USA Weller plant and built the replacement facility in Mexico.  I know a LOT about the Weller line and had many devices for evaluation.

Weller Digital Soldering Station - WE1010NA

If you put the above in Amazon, the price amazed me...they used to be over $200 or so.  You might be able to use a 15 Watt iron and you just "file or rework" the tip to fit your needs.  I believe this is doable.  And the cost would be well worth it.

Just passing this on as it was new to me and I don't think it has been posted here before.

Good Luck.

64-1003, Control Board Removal and Replacement _8.5X11_ _7-06_ (2).pdf

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So glad to have found this recent thread.  While sitting and 'doing nothing' the cabin lights flickered and I was confused because the washer and AC are still going.  The fan and lights went out for a few seconds, but came back on and washer never missed a beat (same with AC)

 

im on 30amp now - and frequently use the same things, so it's not a draw issue.  What I THINK I just learned, my lights are actually running off batteries and I didn't even know it.  I checked my Magnum remote and I see it's showing absorb charging where it generally shows float.  Is it that the fans and other outlets throughout the night (and really possibly for the last day or so) have used the batteries with the overcast (over in Amelia Island and weather is yucky today and part of water day) with not getting enough actual sun to the roofsolar panel to charge them back at the rate they're being used.  My batteries are new (all 6) about 2 months ago, so I know they're good and just want to make sure there isn't a newbie miss I'm not realizing I should do, like turn the inverter ON.  I do have the charger on, so am I right in understanding this is (now) charging batteries from the 30amp?  I've never really used the inverter always plugged up to power, BUT, I am somewhat familiar having read the manual and watched a couple videos when we got the coach to just better understand my equipment.

thanks, in advance!

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7 minutes ago, MIRIAM said:

So glad to have found this recent thread.  While sitting and 'doing nothing' the cabin lights flickered and I was confused because the washer and AC are still going.  The fan and lights went out for a few seconds, but came back on and washer never missed a beat (same with AC)

 

im on 30amp now - and frequently use the same things, so it's not a draw issue.  What I THINK I just learned, my lights are actually running off batteries and I didn't even know it.  I checked my Magnum remote and I see it's showing absorb charging where it generally shows float.  Is it that the fans and other outlets throughout the night (and really possibly for the last day or so) have used the batteries with the overcast (over in Amelia Island and weather is yucky today and part of water day) with not getting enough actual sun to the roofsolar panel to charge them back at the rate they're being used.  My batteries are new (all 6) about 2 months ago, so I know they're good and just want to make sure there isn't a newbie miss I'm not realizing I should do, like turn the inverter ON.  I do have the charger on, so am I right in understanding this is (now) charging batteries from the 30amp?  I've never really used the inverter always plugged up to power, BUT, I am somewhat familiar having read the manual and watched a couple videos when we got the coach to just better understand my equipment.

thanks, in advance!

OK... sort of to summarize....  

First, all your overhead lights are DC as well as the fans and pump.  NOW....there is also a LOT of other DC powered devices...such as the power to the HVAC control modules...without DC...AIN'T gonna work.

Now the OTHER thing you might not KNOW.  All your internal outlets are "fed through" the Inverter.  You know that the ATS switches power from Shore to Genny and feeds the main panel. There is a 30 Amp breaker in the main panel. that provides AC power to the Inverter. If there is 120 VAC being FED or supplied to the Inverter, from the 30 amp in the Main Panel, then IF you have a DECENT (not great, but can be charged) House Batteries, then there is an INTERNAL ATS in the Inverter. That then feeds, directly, the incoming 30 Amp power to the internal outlets.  They work off the GFCI and the other circuit is the Microwave. 

SO, flickering LIGHTS are NOT an INVERTER issue....and the FLICKERING is NOT a sign of BAD Batteries.

There is a Salesman or Battery Cut Off switch (read the manual).  That is a FIASCO.  Most of us have ABANDONED that switch. It works like this.  Push the Spring Loaded Switch UP (it pops back), that LATCHES in a Solenoid in the Rear or maybe Front Run Bay.  That LOCATION and hopefully a Diagram or picture is in your MANUAL.  The two wiring sections ( 8 & 9 ) explain it.  Probably SECTION 8...but read 9 for your continuing electrical education.

NOW when you push the button DOWN, that DISENGAGES or disables all DC power.  Those Solenoids are the ISSUE.  They fail.  People use them as crutches and don't turn off power.  They will shut you down in a HEART BEAT.

The FIX...either remove ONE cable (the LARGE ONES) from one side and put it on the other.  THAT will work and usually there is ENOUGH slack.  BUT, if the cables are TIGHT...then you go to NAPA and get a 781144 Jumper. Attach it to both studs....the switch will click the solenoid...but the circuit is 100% jumpered.  

THAT IS THE USUAL... OMG...LIGHTS FLICKERED...

NOW>>>> There is a VERY IMFORMATIVE and, for YOU, Timely discussion on the pitfalls of 30A service.  You will learn ABOUT the Magnum and there is a file there on how to set it up and also learn about batteries.  THIS IS A MUST READ....

It also cautions you about pulling high loads and the funky things that can happen if you don't set up your inverter...  BIG TIME HEADACHES...

good luck

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1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

OK... sort of to summarize....  

First, all your overhead lights are DC as well as the fans and pump.  NOW....there is also a LOT of other DC powered devices...such as the power to the HVAC control modules...without DC...AIN'T gonna work.

Now the OTHER thing you might not KNOW.  All your internal outlets are "fed through" the Inverter.  You know that the ATS switches power from Shore to Genny and feeds the main panel. There is a 30 Amp breaker in the main panel. that provides AC power to the Inverter. If there is 120 VAC being FED or supplied to the Inverter, from the 30 amp in the Main Panel, then IF you have a DECENT (not great, but can be charged) House Batteries, then there is an INTERNAL ATS in the Inverter. That then feeds, directly, the incoming 30 Amp power to the internal outlets.  They work off the GFCI and the other circuit is the Microwave. 

SO, flickering LIGHTS are NOT an INVERTER issue....and the FLICKERING is NOT a sign of BAD Batteries.

There is a Salesman or Battery Cut Off switch (read the manual).  That is a FIASCO.  Most of us have ABANDONED that switch. It works like this.  Push the Spring Loaded Switch UP (it pops back), that LATCHES in a Solenoid in the Rear or maybe Front Run Bay.  That LOCATION and hopefully a Diagram or picture is in your MANUAL.  The two wiring sections ( 8 & 9 ) explain it.  Probably SECTION 8...but read 9 for your continuing electrical education.

NOW when you push the button DOWN, that DISENGAGES or disables all DC power.  Those Solenoids are the ISSUE.  They fail.  People use them as crutches and don't turn off power.  They will shut you down in a HEART BEAT.

The FIX...either remove ONE cable (the LARGE ONES) from one side and put it on the other.  THAT will work and usually there is ENOUGH slack.  BUT, if the cables are TIGHT...then you go to NAPA and get a 781144 Jumper. Attach it to both studs....the switch will click the solenoid...but the circuit is 100% jumpered.  

THAT IS THE USUAL... OMG...LIGHTS FLICKERED...

NOW>>>> There is a VERY IMFORMATIVE and, for YOU, Timely discussion on the pitfalls of 30A service.  You will learn ABOUT the Magnum and there is a file there on how to set it up and also learn about batteries.  THIS IS A MUST READ....

It also cautions you about pulling high loads and the funky things that can happen if you don't set up your inverter...  BIG TIME HEADACHES...

good luck

Thanks, Tom - you're always helpful.  I actually did learn about the 30amp & inverter for outlets, but totally by accident a couple/few months ago, so that was my first check when it happened this time.  I checked my 30amp breaker SNF straight to my inverter remote.  I've never used that salesman switch intentionally because I learned my lesson with that early on. (Playing with switches learning in the beginning)  it's a switch right inside the door labeled coach power or something.  We don't use that and don't plan to. (Read about it and most everyone shares your viewpoint) 

we just left for the day and batteries have charged back up with remote back to 'float'

It's the first time it happened and the lights just flickered a second, but I always like to learn - never assume anything is 'nothing' so I always come to 'my peeps' and start reading what you all have shared from experience.  I learn so much constantly reading these threads (whether it's anything I'm experiencing or not) and really appreciate the support when I have a question.  I'm going to read what you shared and leave this for now and just triple check my settings in my inverter remote for the ATS piece.  I remember seeing that when I went through all settings (literally one-by-one) a couple months ago with manual explaining what does what.  I may have missed something, but I'm pretty sure it did exactly what it was supposed to and kicked in to charge my batteries.  (They charged and back to 'float' status)

PS, while on inverter settings, I've always been so curious about the auto start feature for genny and it just never kicked on yet. (No reason for it to, but so wanting it to HA!)  
 

I just want to learn EVERYTHING--slow and steady....this forum is invaluable resource.....

 

happy Saturday from the gloomy Amelia Island area today!

 

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8 minutes ago, MIRIAM said:

Thanks, Tom - you're always helpful.  I actually did learn about the 30amp & inverter for outlets, but totally by accident a couple/few months ago, so that was my first check when it happened this time.  I checked my 30amp breaker SNF straight to my inverter remote.  I've never used that salesman switch intentionally because I learned my lesson with that early on. (Playing with switches learning in the beginning)  it's a switch right inside the door labeled coach power or something.  We don't use that and don't plan to. (Read about it and most everyone shares your viewpoint) 

we just left for the day and batteries have charged back up with remote back to 'float'

It's the first time it happened and the lights just flickered a second, but I always like to learn - never assume anything is 'nothing' so I always come to 'my peeps' and start reading what you all have shared from experience.  I learn so much constantly reading these threads (whether it's anything I'm experiencing or not) and really appreciate the support when I have a question.  I'm going to read what you shared and leave this for now and just triple check my settings in my inverter remote for the ATS piece.  I remember seeing that when I went through all settings (literally one-by-one) a couple months ago with manual explaining what does what.  I may have missed something, but I'm pretty sure it did exactly what it was supposed to and kicked in to charge my batteries.  (They charged and back to 'float' status)

PS, while on inverter settings, I've always been so curious about the auto start feature for genny and it just never kicked on yet. (No reason for it to, but so wanting it to HA!)  
 

I just want to learn EVERYTHING--slow and steady....this forum is invaluable resource.....

 

happy Saturday from the gloomy Amelia Island area today!

 

Whilst OUT…buy the NAPA jumper.  I think the solenoid is failing….and it will get worse. Having the $10 part and  knowing how to fix is invaluable. There is programming instructions and use of the AutoStart.  Bare in mind…you have the older and now obsolete 5 knob AGS and it was prone to failure….but it either works…or you get a new one.  I recall a topic where someone was gonna fix it… but no feedback, at least that I recall, on parts availability and/or success….

Flickering is only going to get worse.  Also NOT good for your AC’s nor W/D.  This is like a power company spike and you get surges and the PCB in each are NOT happy….

Way more to eliminate with a 15 minute and $10 fix a problem than can cost you big time.

The solenoids fail due to USE as in the contacts will arc and pit. $10 to bypass a way more expensive but srupid idea solenoid is a good deal.

Maybe the weather will change. Know exactly where you are…been there a few times….

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On 6/19/2024 at 1:56 PM, Bobbyboy said:

Frank:  I did a hard reset to no avail;  the circuit breaker on the Magnum did not trip.  The inverter is mounted (upside down) on the roof of the first bay after the fuel tank and there has been no moisture in that bay.  I just don't know since it worked perfect after a few dry days then stopped after the rainstorm we had down here yesterday.  I am not that familiar with the internal workings of the inverter but I assume there is an internal transfer switch that switche to battery inut when there is no ac input.  However I had ac input to the inverter but it would not allow the ac  to "pass through" to the subpanel.  When  I bypassed the inverter completely no problem everything on the subpanel worked.  Of course I no longer have the charger function thus the external trickle chargers.  I guess there is a failure of an internal compotent.  A new one costs $2,000.00 so I guess I am going to have to suck it up and make the purchase.

Thanks,  Bob L

Any chance rodents nested on there? 

They like the heat coming off the inverter!

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If you are going to consider replacement you may be able to upsize. My wife is not as outdoorsy as i am she likes to build quilts even on dry camp trips. The Knight is much simpler electrically then the larger coaches. She runs sewing machines, fans , ect at the same time and i beg her to wait to use the genny when she irons (ouch).

Protection coordination with the existing system is close ....... but have not developed any know problems. I replaced the 2000 with the 2500 which meant some additional parts. External protection instead of the the inverter mounted trip buttons. Added 4\0 to the batteries and xtra plugs at the inverter for me to enjoy. The solar contrabution along with the batteries allows longer day use. I am noy an expert, but my trade was electrical lineman\ substation electrician dispatcher ... i can study prints and understand some things.

 

batteries.jpg

inverter.jpg

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3 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Bottom line....YES, we need to focus on getting your issue resolved....

Second.  Based on what I know and have read and has been reported.  If the Board's ATS is toast... Just found this.

@Frank McElroy Don't think we have this in the files....might be a good addition. So, as step by step, should you need it on getting the board out....WELLL GUESSSS WHATTTT?

OK....my curiosity is well known....  Here is something that might be of real value....  I had NOT seen this done before nor remember reading about it.

I am not the expert of desoldering...but have replaced many components and rebuilt power supply boards on LED TV's.  I would be worth giving this a try.  I have a nice Weller soldering station.  You don't need the really nice vacuum desoldering iron....you purchase the dewicking mesh and that will "suck up" the excess solder and leave the board ready for popping in the new relays.

I worked for the Cooper Hand Tools division and was their "on site" consultant for a variety of areas. I spent a LOT of time in the USA Weller plant and built the replacement facility in Mexico.  I know a LOT about the Weller line and had many devices for evaluation.

Weller Digital Soldering Station - WE1010NA

If you put the above in Amazon, the price amazed me...they used to be over $200 or so.  You might be able to use a 15 Watt iron and you just "file or rework" the tip to fit your needs.  I believe this is doable.  And the cost would be well worth it.

Just passing this on as it was new to me and I don't think it has been posted here before.

Good Luck.

64-1003, Control Board Removal and Replacement _8.5X11_ _7-06_ (2).pdf 1.23 MB · 4 downloads

Tom:  If I determine a faulty relay I may take you up on your offer;  have nothing to lose.  Will keep you posted once I get into it.

 

BobL

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