jegall Posted June 20 Share Posted June 20 My cooling fan running full speed . Bypassed wax valve still running full speed . Need help locating part number for switching valve that’s mounted on the fan hydraulic motor . Or possible rebuild kit . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted June 20 Share Posted June 20 15 minutes ago, jegall said: My cooling fan running full speed . Bypassed wax valve still running full speed . Need help locating part number for switching valve that’s mounted on the fan hydraulic motor . Or possible rebuild kit . Call Source Engineering. They are the experts of cooling fan issues. They sell the “wax valve kits” that some use when the digital ECM driven controller fails. They UNDERSTAND the older systems like yours. Google Source Engineering or add Motor Homes to the search. Jim or Scott are the guys…. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Wightman Posted June 21 Share Posted June 21 On my 2006 HR Scepter there was no rebuild kit, had to change the fan at like $4,500 bucks for just the fan. Mine had different symptoms though, I didn't think mine ever went into the fast fan mode and the motor was running warm. Nobody could tell me if the problem was the fan or the ECU to control it, didn't want to risk hurting the motor so I just swapped it out. It does run in the fast mode now when it warms up so maybe it was bad, and I think that when the fan motor fails it automatically goes into the fast mode to protect the motor from overheating. I had to get mine (through the repair center) directly from REV group. Good Luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chargerman Posted June 21 Share Posted June 21 When a wax valve fails the fan will run full speed. The same thing will happen if you bypass it. Sounds like you need a new wax valve 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted June 21 Share Posted June 21 Mine did the same thing. I contacted Monaco tech, who actually responded to emails, and they had me do two tests. I plugged both lines and the fan ran wide open. I then put a union in between both hoses and the fan ran at an idle. Based on that they said my thermovalve was was bad. I ended up sourcing one from WhiteHouse Products in the UK. PN 553/1/09857/210 Yours may be different, there is a tag on the thermovavle that has the number. Price was much cheaper then USA source, in 2015 ~$230 even with currency Xchange. Got it in ~1 week. You can buy one from NWRVsupply.com https://www.nwrvsupply.com/product/ax-valve-553-1-09857-210/ 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jegall Posted June 21 Author Share Posted June 21 45 minutes ago, Chargerman said: When a wax valve fails the fan will run full speed. The same thing will happen if you bypass it. Sounds like you need a new wax valve With a cold engine the wax valve is in bypass mode so putting a coupling in the two lines the fan should not run mine runs full speed with plugs in both lines my fan runs at full speed . The problem is in the switching valve but I cannot find any information on it . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timaz996 Posted June 21 Share Posted June 21 Look up white hydraulics in the UK. I bought mine for a shade over $200 and they had it to me in three days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted June 21 Share Posted June 21 Here's my parts page showing the motor, it has the Monaco PN & vendor number but in the past I had not been able to find a source when trying to help others. Your best bet would be to remove and take to a good HYD shop to see if it can be repaired, may just be seals. 1 Engine Fan Cooling.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vito.a Posted June 21 Share Posted June 21 Jim, I need more information. Your Imperial (with a Cummins engine) came factory equipped with a Sauer Danfoss electronic fan controller. It worked with your Cummins ECU to control the fan speed. Did you replace this system with a mechanical wax valve from either Source Engineering or White House Products? If so, how long ago was this and when did it stop working? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jegall Posted June 21 Author Share Posted June 21 All original see page from manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superpro14 Posted June 24 Share Posted June 24 well , my problem seems to be at the pump, waxvalve hooked up fan slow on start up and hot, disconnect the two lines plug same think, couple the two line same thing, any suggestions, thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted June 24 Share Posted June 24 Might as well remove the pump and have a look at it. If you can't see any physical damage to the gears and the pump isn't leaking it might just be bypassing internally and just needs a seal kit. My pump has two circuits, one for steering and one for the hydraulic fan. If you steering is fine then it might just be the fan circuit. In my case REVrvparts.com does sell a seal kit for my pump https://revrvparts.com/search?keyword=10488892 If you aren't comfortable with taking the pump apart find a good hydraulic shop. Whitehouse products in the past sold this pump at a reasonable price but as of now they are out of stock. https://www.whitehouseproductsltd.com/products/hydraulic-pumps/hyd-gear-pump/non-standard-dynamatic-gear-pumps/dynamatic-no-550-1-36844-159-160 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superpro14 Posted June 25 Share Posted June 25 Thanks Jim, was considering that, wonder how hard it is to remove the fan blade hub from the motor shaft? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted June 25 Share Posted June 25 To remove the fan motor is a little bit of chore. When I had to have my radiator changed (road debris) they opted to leave the whole box/support in the engine compartment, they simply supported with chains from above. But there was nothing wrong with it so can't blame them. Here's a picture of mine, this is the parts page. There is a cross type support that will have to be removed, the motor and fan blade attaches to it. So you'd have to be careful on taking stuff apart. Besides that there are the main chassis rails, hydraulic/fuel lines, and wiring harnesses to deal with. Fun times NOT!! It's doable, others have so it can be done. What I'd almost recommend is to make some calls to a good hydraulic shop and ask if they can do a pressure/flow test with the system in place. it would consist of pulling the hose off the motor, routing it to the test machine, and then routing a hose from the machine to the motor. The machine registers both flow and pressure. This would confirm what the pump is putting out. If the fan motor doesn't work with correct flow/pressure then you pull the motor. If a shop won't do it there might be a good mobile mechanic, not necessarily an RV mechanic, that can do it. This is pretty much standard operating procedure to troubleshoot/confirm the hydraulic circuit is OK. When I managed mines we invested in one of these machines to diagnose hydraulics, it was a portable tool, saved a lot of guessing as to the problem. Good luck 1 Engine Fan Cooling.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superpro14 Posted June 25 Share Posted June 25 Thanks Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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