Surge protector questions. Locations? Hard wired vs Pedestal plug in? Discussion and advice needed.

[MIRIAM]

Another Newbie question - since I'm 50amp coach and have a 50amp (progressive industries) surge protector, does it matter that I have the surge protector plugged to an adapter into 30amp.  Should I be using a 30amp surge protector while on 30am?  I've only been on 30amp 2x in a year and never had a problem, so never considered it......

....until today.....I've had the coach for a little over a year and never really had an issue with power until today......the power flickered (later learned it was NOT just in RV, but in the actual host house on the property) and, while everything is 'fine' and working normal, I happened to notice the red light on the progressive industries 50a surge protector is LIGHTLY illuminating, but not very bright like the green and blue are, but it's there.  Could it  be I am a 50amp coach and plugged in to 30amp?  I wouldn't think so and just seems 'new'  we have been here 5 weeks with zero problems until today.  I've tried troubleshooting and resetting everything removed the plugs, reset breakers inside and outside, but just can't figure out why it's saying there is "an open negative" on the surge protector.

to be clear, the way I plugged in - I plug in the adapter (50 to 30) into 30 pole - then, the 50amp surge protector (which doesn't show red) - then - plug in my 50amp plug and the red comes on, BUT it's not bright like the green and blue. You can't even see it unless you're standing RIGHT in front of it and the blue and green you can see clearly from a distance and inside the coach) I don't THINK it's been there and just happened to notice when I was there after power flickered and my AGS kicked my generator on, so when power came back (almost immediately) I shut down generator.  (Thinking too much power with genny and plugged to shore, so panicked and ran to turn off genny - BTW is that even true? Does running genny on shore matter?  I've read conflicting opinions and I just never do it, so never really mattered until today when AGS kicked it on and shore came back.  It's the first time it happened and I'm a newbie, so looking for experience.  **i did read prior post about it possibly being a bad adapter and I carry spares, so I tried a different one and no change.  My cord reel is not even 1/4 of the way out, so no stress...I've read SO MANY posts in electrical using search for surge protectors and nothing was a hit, so I decided to just create new and ask.

BTW - I have an SurgeGuard auto transfer and it has been working flawlessly while I was trying different things, too.  While on the SurgeGuard, because that is so great, I do feel protected and just not sure if even that is a false sense of security. 

Thanks, in advance!  

[Tom Cherry]

13 minutes ago, MIRIAM said:

Another Newbie question - since I'm 50amp coach and have a 50amp (progressive industries) surge protector, does it matter that I have the surge protector plugged to an adapter into 30amp.  Should I be using a 30amp surge protector while on 30am?  I've only been on 30amp 2x in a year and never had a problem, so never considered it......

....until today.....I've had the coach for a little over a year and never really had an issue with power until today......the power flickered (later learned it was NOT just in RV, but in the actual host house on the property) and, while everything is 'fine' and working normal, I happened to notice the red light on the progressive industries 50a surge protector is LIGHTLY illuminating, but not very bright like the green and blue are, but it's there.  Could it  be I am a 50amp coach and plugged in to 30amp?  I wouldn't think so and just seems 'new'  we have been here 5 weeks with zero problems until today.  I've tried troubleshooting and resetting everything removed the plugs, reset breakers inside and outside, but just can't figure out why it's saying there is "an open negative" on the surge protector.

to be clear, the way I plugged in - I plug in the adapter (50 to 30) into 30 pole - then, the 50amp surge protector (which doesn't show red) - then - plug in my 50amp plug and the red comes on, BUT it's not bright like the green and blue. You can't even see it unless you're standing RIGHT in front of it and the blue and green you can see clearly from a distance and inside the coach) I don't THINK it's been there and just happened to notice when I was there after power flickered and my AGS kicked my generator on, so when power came back (almost immediately) I shut down generator.  (Thinking too much power with genny and plugged to shore, so panicked and ran to turn off genny - BTW is that even true? Does running genny on shore matter?  I've read conflicting opinions and I just never do it, so never really mattered until today when AGS kicked it on and shore came back.  It's the first time it happened and I'm a newbie, so looking for experience.  **i did read prior post about it possibly being a bad adapter and I carry spares, so I tried a different one and no change.  My cord reel is not even 1/4 of the way out, so no stress...I've read SO MANY posts in electrical using search for surge protectors and nothing was a hit, so I decided to just create new and ask.

BTW - I have an SurgeGuard auto transfer and it has been working flawlessly while I was trying different things, too.  While on the SurgeGuard, because that is so great, I do feel protected and just not sure if even that is a false sense of security. 

Thanks, in advance!  

OK...from the TOP.  I had a SURGE GUARD 50 Amp plug in.  I didn't realize that there were better ones out there. I actually had MY surge suppressor HARD WIRED IN.  I installed a MALE and a FEMALE fittings....UPSTREAM of the ATS. So, I plugged in the Surge Guard THERE...where is SHOULD BE. I hated the PLUG IN and UNPLUG.

There is also a fallacy.  IF you have an OPEN Neutral DOWN STREAM...the Plug IN Adapater ain't gonna catch it.

NOW....about the 30 Amp.  I use 30 all the time.  That line is UPSTREAM.  SO, all the 30 does is take the single Line 1 Hot and split it to Hot 1 and Hot 2.  The NEUTRAL goes to the NETURAL.  SO, bad power....it is caught.  BUT, the Remote on the Progressive reads Line I and Line 2 as EXACTLY the same VOLTS.  Since the Protector is right before my ATS...then if there is a LOAD on Line 1 and NO load on Line 2....the Surge Protector reads 120 VAC and 20 Amps Line 1 and 120 VAC  on Line 2 and ZERO AMPS.  If there was a load on both...it would be displayed.

In you case, I can't tell you now much you are at risk.  You are ACTUALLY double protected....two sets of MOV's for Surge.  BUT some major high level EE's think that is BAD.  If there is a surge or spike then it might be DIVIDED and neither one will absorb it.  The INDUSTRY for Home USE....says NEVER plug ONE surge suppressor into another ONE.  NEC and UL agree.

NOW, does your Surge Guard ATS protect you from an OPEN NEUTRAL?  IF SO, then you have protection.  BUT, if it  doesn't...then you are at risk.

If the ATS does NOT protect or SHUT DOWN AUTOMATICALLY when there is an OPEN NEUTRAL, the MY recommendation.  Purchase a male and female 50 Amp connectors.  Then pull the INCOMING LINE (Shore) out of the ATS. Hook that up to a FEMALE 50 AMP plug.  Then take the OUTGOING to the MAIN PANEL.  Hook that up to a MALE 50 Amp PLug.  NOW, plug in the Progressive.  Your INCOMING line, including the SHORE Cord and the PLUG can get an open NEUTRAL.  The Progressive will now protect that.  SO, you don't have to fiddle with plugging in the Progressive. It is exactly WHERE the HW50C is supposed to be....right before the ATS. You have all the features there.  The SurgeGuard ATS is also protected.  You and use 30 or even 120 VAC 20 AMP power.  JUST remember to always keep the Remote on 30 unless you are on 20 AMPS.

That is the ultimate protection for your situation.  My PLUG went out.  I had an OPEN neutral.  Had that happened in your situation...you would have incurred major damage and the Progressive would have been fat dumb and happy.  MAYBE the SG ATS would have shut down or warned you.  I don't know.  BUT, if it allowed an Open Neutral to exist....and the Progressive shuts down and you have to OVERRIDE it manually...then issues.

Hope this helps... 

[MIRIAM]

54 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

OK...from the TOP.  I had a SURGE GUARD 50 Amp plug in.  I didn't realize that there were better ones out there. I actually had MY surge suppressor HARD WIRED IN.  I installed a MALE and a FEMALE fittings....UPSTREAM of the ATS. So, I plugged in the Surge Guard THERE...where is SHOULD BE. I hated the PLUG IN and UNPLUG.

There is also a fallacy.  IF you have an OPEN Neutral DOWN STREAM...the Plug IN Adapater ain't gonna catch it.

NOW....about the 30 Amp.  I use 30 all the time.  That line is UPSTREAM.  SO, all the 30 does is take the single Line 1 Hot and split it to Hot 1 and Hot 2.  The NEUTRAL goes to the NETURAL.  SO, bad power....it is caught.  BUT, the Remote on the Progressive reads Line I and Line 2 as EXACTLY the same VOLTS.  Since the Protector is right before my ATS...then if there is a LOAD on Line 1 and NO load on Line 2....the Surge Protector reads 120 VAC and 20 Amps Line 1 and 120 VAC  on Line 2 and ZERO AMPS.  If there was a load on both...it would be displayed.

In you case, I can't tell you now much you are at risk.  You are ACTUALLY double protected....two sets of MOV's for Surge.  BUT some major high level EE's think that is BAD.  If there is a surge or spike then it might be DIVIDED and neither one will absorb it.  The INDUSTRY for Home USE....says NEVER plug ONE surge suppressor into another ONE.  NEC and UL agree.

NOW, does your Surge Guard ATS protect you from an OPEN NEUTRAL?  IF SO, then you have protection.  BUT, if it  doesn't...then you are at risk.

If the ATS does NOT protect or SHUT DOWN AUTOMATICALLY when there is an OPEN NEUTRAL, the MY recommendation.  Purchase a male and female 50 Amp connectors.  Then pull the INCOMING LINE (Shore) out of the ATS. Hook that up to a FEMALE 50 AMP plug.  Then take the OUTGOING to the MAIN PANEL.  Hook that up to a MALE 50 Amp PLug.  NOW, plug in the Progressive.  Your INCOMING line, including the SHORE Cord and the PLUG can get an open NEUTRAL.  The Progressive will now protect that.  SO, you don't have to fiddle with plugging in the Progressive. It is exactly WHERE the HW50C is supposed to be....right before the ATS. You have all the features there.  The SurgeGuard ATS is also protected.  You and use 30 or even 120 VAC 20 AMP power.  JUST remember to always keep the Remote on 30 unless you are on 20 AMPS.

That is the ultimate protection for your situation.  My PLUG went out.  I had an OPEN neutral.  Had that happened in your situation...you would have incurred major damage and the Progressive would have been fat dumb and happy.  MAYBE the SG ATS would have shut down or warned you.  I don't know.  BUT, if it allowed an Open Neutral to exist....and the Progressive shuts down and you have to OVERRIDE it manually...then issues.

Hope this helps... 

I think I got lost there, but I'll re-read SNF google to better understand some of your mentions.  I thought I did have a hard-wired surge protector, so maybe that was a mistake.  I went and took a couple photos to see if you're familiar with this equipment.  Maybe I need something else.

if I have an open neutral in my cord, how does that happen?  I assume they just go bad, but it wasn't moved or anything.  How can I fix the cord or is that a shop thing?  Familiar with anyone in the Amelia Island or close in FL?  I have a shop in Eustis, so I guess I may have to go home early and get this looked at.  I don't want a small problem becoming a big one and I'm going to buy a 30amp portable surge protector to see if that changes anything, too.

[cbr046]

14 hours ago, MIRIAM said:

......the power flickered (later learned it was NOT just in RV, but in the actual host house on the property) and, while everything is 'fine' and working normal, I happened to notice the red light on the progressive industries 50a surge protector is LIGHTLY illuminating, but not very bright like the green and blue are, but it's there. 

Following . . . . Anyone want to address the lightly illuminating red light?

- bob

[Dr4Film]

@MIRIAM

What is the model number of the PI device plugged into the pedestal?

Your Surge Guard 40350RVC Transfer Switch is an excellent one providing you have the remote display that shows how well your power pedestal is performing. It does not talk to the Aladdin System though if you have that on your coach.

Edited June 23 by Dr4Film

[MIRIAM]

3 hours ago, cbr046 said:

Following . . . . Anyone want to address the lightly illuminating red light?

- bob

You have the same issue, Bob?  It's the craziest thing - I took photos and just not really reflective in photos.  The other 2 lights are bright and the red is lit, just not bright like you'd think and yet lit enough to know it's not backlighting - I have tried everything - and - everything works perfectly.  I'm going to get a new surge protector (just to check) and even change my cord plug, but that's the only 2 things I haven't done.  

[cbr046]

14 minutes ago, MIRIAM said:

You have the same issue, Bob?  It's the craziest thing - I took photos and just not really reflective in photos.  The other 2 lights are bright and the red is lit, just not bright like you'd think and yet lit enough to know it's not backlighting - I have tried everything - and - everything works perfectly.  I'm going to get a new surge protector (just to check) and even change my cord plug, but that's the only 2 things I haven't done.  

Not having that issue but I believe I have the same surge protector. 

What does your manual say?

- bob

[MIRIAM]

3 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

@MIRIAM

What is the model number of the PI device plugged into the pedestal?

Your Surge Guard 40350RVC Transfer Switch is an excellent one providing you have the remote display that shows how well your power pedestal is performing. It does not talk to the Aladdin System though if you have that on your coach.

Hi 👋🏻 - I have the SSP-50XL - I felt it was sufficient for the pedestal with my ATS/SP onboard hardwired and really use it to test the pedestal before I plug in....just extra layer of caution. 

My set up - 50 to 30 adapter plugged into pedestal with my SP plugged to that adapter then my cord reel plugged to SP.

First photo is from standing up - blue and green bright with red not really noticeable until you're direct (eye level) and it looks illuminated (2nd photo) and looks brighter in the photo than in person.

all outlets (everything) works like normal.  The red light just makes me nervous and I'm not one to just "oh, it's fine" to find out it's not (overthinker) so I've reset EVERYTHING - breakers inside, outside, changed 50/30 adapter reset genny breaker....nothing stopped the red.

I checked my magnum remote in my electrical bay and all good there.  I even slid the genny out to reset those breakers because I THINK it started when the power flickered (not related to our coach and house on property flickered - host confirmed)  when it flickered, the AGS kicked genny on, but I shut it down not needed.  I went and disabled my AGS just in case anyway.

I've read magnum 

[cbr046]

Looks like an open neutral.  Maybe it's a resistive neutral.  What does it show with coach unplugged?

- bob

[96 EVO]

Red's don't look illuminated to me 🤔!

I would think if it actually sensed a open neutral condition, it wouldn't allow power to your coach!

That's the way my older PI EMS works.

Edited June 23 by 96 EVO

[MIRIAM]

31 minutes ago, cbr046 said:

Not having that issue but I believe I have the same surge protector. 

What does your manual say?

- bob

I searched and couldn't find the 40350-RVC manual; however, did find troubleshooting and nothing matched.  That said, I don't even really have a 'problem' except that pesky red light illuminates when I plugged in my cable. Not there if just pedestal to portable surge protector - but lights (some) when I plug in my cord.  Making me nuts!

32 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Red's don't look illuminated to me 🤔!

I showed the property owners (they were over chatting) and said the same thing, BUT they are....and, clear as day when at eye level - making me feel gaslit a bit.....

41 minutes ago, cbr046 said:

Looks like an open neutral.  Maybe it's a resistive neutral.  What does it show with coach unplugged?

- bob

It does say that description "blue on red on" on the front of the unit - but, the red is  just not bright like the other two light, yet it's definitely lit.  With coach unplugged - no red.  I'm going to take a photo later; it's 93 outside now and high humidity, so don't want to unplug the coach while we need AC and I'm doing laundry. (Story of my life)

[cbr046]

OK, so we know the problem isn't upstream (campground side).

Here's a shot in the dark:  When it cools off, or better yet early tomorrow morning, unplug your coach from shore and turn your generator off.  Do you have AGS?  If so disable it. 

Pull the cover off your 40350-RVC Transfer Switch and re-torque the lugs where the feed cables connect to the relays.  Re-tighten all lugs (as in back them off and re-tighten).  I forget the torque, but it's about as much as you can do with a screwdriver (square tip). 

Make sure your inverter is off and do the same with the distribution panel inside the coach - feed cables only. 

Re-install all covers, plug in the coach and see if that nailed it. 

An alternative would be to "borrow" someone elses surge protector.  Another owner might be hesitant to let you do that. 

- bob

[MIRIAM]

38 minutes ago, cbr046 said:

OK, so we know the problem isn't upstream (campground side).

Here's a shot in the dark:  When it cools off, or better yet early tomorrow morning, unplug your coach from shore and turn your generator off.  Do you have AGS?  If so disable it. 

Pull the cover off your 40350-RVC Transfer Switch and re-torque the lugs where the feed cables connect to the relays.  Re-tighten all lugs (as in back them off and re-tighten).  I forget the torque, but it's about as much as you can do with a screwdriver (square tip). 

Make sure your inverter is off and do the same with the distribution panel inside the coach - feed cables only. 

Re-install all covers, plug in the coach and see if that nailed it. 

An alternative would be to "borrow" someone elses surge protector.  Another owner might be hesitant to let you do that. 

- bob

When you say 'turn generator off' - not to sound stupid, but could you clarify because it's not running and I did disable my AGS yesterday, so good there.  Do you mean the switch on the generator (beside start) that is the on/off for the 35amp switch?  (I saw that today and switched it while trying to reset)  so that I can do.  Then, I can go to tighten the suggested wires and that's an easy try, so worth a shot.  I may wait until Wednesday because I ordered a new surge protector (same one) from Amazon and figured that could be something and worth a shot, too.  It will be here Wednesday.  

What I also think I may try....I have a 50 to 30 amp extension cord (bought for last place I had 30)  -- so, reeling my cable back into the bay (not that length matters just because no sense in being out of it doesn't need to be) - then, connecting the 50/30 extension and putting a 30amp surge on that end before it's connected to pedestal.  I just thought that might be overkill (which I'm certainly not above And I have a tendency to do HAHA)

I'll try anything....I'll check back when I have had the chance to try the mentions.

[Dr4Film]

2 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Red's don't look illuminated to me 🤔!

I would think if it actually sensed a open neutral condition, it wouldn't allow power to your coach!

That's the way my older PI EMS works.

@96 EVO  I agree, the Red LED's don't look lit up at all. A better frontal photo would be beneficial versus one angled from the top.

The SSP-50XL is only a power quality indicator plus surge. It does not provide the protection from the better EMS units. His Surge Guard Transfer Switch model 40350-RVC does provide the protection from errant power conditions but he needs the remote display to actually  see what is happening with the power.

@MIRIAM Do you have the Surge Guard Transfer Switch Remote Display inside your coach?

Also, my guess is that your portable unit took some sort of a power glitch and is not working as it once did previously. That unit is still good for surges but I would not rely on it for anything else. Trust your Transfer Switch for that!

[Tom Cherry]

OK….back to basics….

READ THE Progressive Manual

https://www.progressiveindustries.net/_files/ugd/113429_d0cb9ff80bc84b20b0a03107ceb441f9.pdf

page 3.  DANGER….You have an OPEN Neutral.  Do NOT USE this pedestal.  Your Progressive has saved you.

You need to understand….the Progressive is monitoring what is UPSTREAM.  The Pedestal is defective….notify the CG and have them move you.

Next.  You do NOT need a special surge suppressor for 30 AMPS.  You plug in the 30 - 50 Dogbone.  Then you plug the Progressive into the 50A female.  Then you plug the shore 50 Amp into it.  It will work.

Next up.  Sorry for too much information.  There is NOTHING wrong with your MH….

BUT….you need to understand this.  The recommended LOCATION of a surge suppressor is just before your ATS.  In your hookup, there is ample opportunity for wiring or connection problems from your shore line plug or the shore cable or the reel (if you one) or the Junction box(s).  There are all these….then there is a 50A cable that runs to the ATS.  The Progressive is upstream.  It has NO IDEA what is GOOD or BAG from that point on.

My recommendation was to move the Progressive into the bay where the ATS is and put it right before the ATS.  The Pedestal Power will still be monitored.  But all of the MH cable and connections will also be monitored.  This is NOT a job for a NASA electronics tech.  Any qualified HOME electrician can do it.  It is a “RESIDENTIAL WIRING JOB”…stuff they do EVERYDAY…or a friend that understands basic house wiring.

THEN…like the OPEN Neutral that you have…if it happens on your side of the pedestal….you are protected.  That is what happened to me…

That is the basics and my conclusions. Call me when you get back to the MH tonight after dinner….

Good Luck.

[Tom Cherry]

3 hours ago, MIRIAM said:

I searched and couldn't find the 40350-RVC manual; however, did find troubleshooting and nothing matched.  That said, I don't even really have a 'problem' except that pesky red light illuminates when I plugged in my cable. Not there if just pedestal to portable surge protector - but lights (some) when I plug in my cord.  Making me nuts!

I showed the property owners (they were over chatting) and said the same thing, BUT they are....and, clear as day when at eye level - making me feel gaslit a bit.....

It does say that description "blue on red on" on the front of the unit - but, the red is  just not bright like the other two light, yet it's definitely lit.  With coach unplugged - no red.  I'm going to take a photo later; it's 93 outside now and high humidity, so don't want to unplug the coach while we need AC and I'm doing laundry. (Story of my life)

Read this.  This gives you ALL the specs on the ATS.  40350-RVC

 

YES….your Surge Suppressor ATS does have OPEN Neutral Protection.  See page 12.  As .Richard said, it would be GOOD to have the remote monitor.  Then you could check and understand.

NOW….we are getting somewhere.  The Progressive you have is somewhat redundant.  It MAY provide more or supplemental protection or NOT or might not be recommended.

I can’t answer that and neither can all the “experts” I talked to many years ago.

THE BEST approach.  Call Southwire.  Ask for Tech Support.  Tell them…I have the 40350-RVC.  I’m a WORRIER.  I want to double up proetection….I am considering buying a 35550 plug in pedestal protector.  
 

Will that give me MORE protection?  I have been told it might conflict??

Is it OK to buy one and use both?  Will i have more protection? Will they conflict?

What is Southwire’s OFFICIAL POSITION on doubling up??

THEN YOU WILL KNOW….post what they say.

Based on what your ATS says it will do….if you unplugged the Progressive, then the ATS should not give you power as the Pedestal is the problem….you KNOW THAT from the lights….

[96 EVO]

You may be better off just using your portable to check the pedestal, then leave it out, and trust the Surge Guard to protect the coach.

I use a portable P.I EMS, but I don't have a surge suppressing ATS behind it.

 

Edited June 24 by 96 EVO

[MIRIAM]

4 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

@96 EVO  I agree, the Red LED's don't look lit up at all. A better frontal photo would be beneficial versus one angled from the top.

The SSP-50XL is only a power quality indicator plus surge. It does not provide the protection from the better EMS units. His Surge Guard Transfer Switch model 40350-RVC does provide the protection from errant power conditions but he needs the remote display to actually  see what is happening with the power.

@MIRIAM Do you have the Surge Guard Transfer Switch Remote Display inside your coach?

Also, my guess is that your portable unit took some sort of a power glitch and is not working as it once did previously. That unit is still good for surges but I would not rely on it for anything else. Trust your Transfer Switch for that!

Hi guys - I thought the same and it's really odd because you can see it so much brighter straight on.  I thought I had a photo of both, so here is the one at eye level again. You can see the red - but - it's just not bright like the other two (looks brighter in the photo than in person) 

considering i have no power issue, so the portable (progressive industries) surge protector is allowing power to pass - and - the internal ATS/Surge Guard (which checks for open neutral) is good to go, I'm debating if my PI SP is just time to replace.  I think it's a 2016 anyway.  (Came with coach from original owner)  I just wonder if the blip yesterday was enough to kiss it goodbye. (If not at least I'll know)

thanks for helping me think through.  Im a worrier, for sure, and rather be safe than sorry.

 

1 hour ago, 96 EVO said:

You may be better off just using your portable to check the pedestal, then leave it out, and trust the Surge Guard to protect the coach.

I use a portable P.I EMS, but I don't have a surge suppressing ATS behind it.

 

That's a good idea, but I was just told it needs to have a load, so I would have to plug by cord into the PI SP, right?  (Maybe I misunderstood)  I almost got the PI EMS, but opted for this one (again) because I have the surge guard built in already.... same thing.

[96 EVO]

4 minutes ago, MIRIAM said:

 

 

That's a good idea, but I was just told it needs to have a load, so I would have to plug by cord into the PI SP, right?  (Maybe I misunderstood)  I almost got the PI EMS, but opted for this one (again) because I have the surge guard built in already.... same thing.

No, it doesn't need a load to tell you if the pedestal is wired correctly!

Mine has a digital readout. Checks pedestal wiring, then transfers power to the coach. When I add a load, it will tell me what the voltage drops to on each leg. Voltage drops below something like 104V, it kills power to the coach.

I believe your Surge Guard ATS does the same.

[Bill R]

9 minutes ago, MIRIAM said:

Hi guys - I thought the same and it's really odd because you can see it so much brighter straight on.

Maybe look at the lights at night when it is dark outside to confirm the red light is illuminated by the bulb and not a reflective pseudo illumination.

[MIRIAM]

9 hours ago, Bill R said:

Maybe look at the lights at night when it is dark outside to confirm the red light is illuminated by the bulb and not a reflective pseudo illumination.

I did do that and took a photo, too.  I went ahead and bought a new one, just on the chance it's my unit.  I'll know when that comes in from Amazon and I think I'll buy an EMS one to try that, too.  I can return it, if ends up not being needed, but worth a try. 

again, because it's allowing power AND my coach surge guard (which checks for open neutral) is allowing power and I have no power issues, it's the weirdest thing and making me feel like I'm being gaslit HA!  I see it and I know it's there, but not acting like it.....so, I'm just going to buy a new one to check.  It's not lit up when plugged into the pedestal by itself, but I plug my cord and it lights up (lightly)  - I'm going to video it today....just because it's the craziest thing and you can see the difference.  At least I've learned so much while trying to figure this out, so that is my silver lining.....
 

[Dr4Film]

1 hour ago, MIRIAM said:

I went ahead and bought a new one, just on the chance it's my unit.  I'll know when that comes in from Amazon and I think I'll buy an EMS one to try that, too.  I can return it, if ends up not being needed, but worth a try. 

again, because it's allowing power AND my coach surge guard (which checks for open neutral) is allowing power and I have no power issues, it's the weirdest thing and making me feel like I'm being gaslit HA!  I see it and I know it's there, but not acting like it.....so, I'm just going to buy a new one to check.  It's not lit up when plugged into the pedestal by itself, but I plug my cord and it lights up (lightly)  - I'm going to video it today....just because it's the craziest thing and you can see the difference.  At least I've learned so much while trying to figure this out, so that is my silver lining.....

You are not understanding the function of the SSP-50XL. That device will ONLY check the quality of your power. It will NOT shut down any errant power condition from entering your coach. You have to have one of the more expensive Progressive Industries EMS devices for those added and necessary functions.

However, you should not need a new EMS one either as that's exactly what your combination Southwire Surge Guard EMS Transfer Switch does, it will shut down any errant power conditions from going further into your coach.

However, you have yet to answer whether you have the Surge Guard Remote Display which will tell you what your transfer switch is doing WRT the quality of the power and what is happening inside your transfer switch. I am not familiar with the Southwire error codes that the display will show or what it actually displays versus the Progressive Industries error codes and its display.

[MIRIAM]

37 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

You are not understanding the function of the SSP-50XL. That device will ONLY check the quality of your power. It will NOT shut down any errant power condition from entering your coach. You have to have one of the more expensive Progressive Industries EMS devices for those added and necessary functions.

However, you should not need a new EMS one either as that's exactly what your combination Southwire Surge Guard EMS Transfer Switch does, it will shut down any errant power conditions from going further into your coach.

However, you have yet to answer whether you have the Surge Guard Remote Display which will tell you what your transfer switch is doing WRT the quality of the power and what is happening inside your transfer switch. I am not familiar with the Southwire error codes that the display will show or what it actually displays versus the Progressive Industries error codes and its display.

I thought I answered that - I do not have the surge guard remote, so I assume original owner opted out of that piece.

either way, when going out this AM to check and take a video (was going to show how the PI lights red as soon as I plug my cable in from MY coach - but NOT when it's just in pedestal by itself)

would you believe that red light is no longer illuminating at all.....I feel like I have been gaslit for the last 3 days, but I learned so much in the process, so I guess it's not all bad.

see - and compare - it had the light and light is gone now. Fluke or not, I have a new PI on the way and will keep a spare just in case anyway.

again, with just the PI plugged to the pedestal, it was NOT red and red lit lightly when I plugged in MY cable (from my coach) to it.....was that way since Saturday.

as of this AM - no longer showing red - it's the damndest thing.

im not crazy and have photos to prove!  HA!
 

this photo is NOW :

this was yesterday:

 

[CAT Stephen]

@MIRIAM,

 

You asked about best approach for surge protectors, but I suggest expanding it to electrical RV protection.  Aside from the multiple pedestal wiring faults that are detected by most surge suppressors, another extremely harmful pedestal condition is low voltage.  Low voltage (i.e. < 100VAC) from the pedestal caused by undersized campground wiring infrastructure and / or heavy campground grid load due to summer heat (Lots of A/Cs pulling heavy loads exceeding the campground grid design capacity) will result in RV electrical motors, such as RV A/C motors, overheating, burning out,  and potentially catching on fire.  Also, many electronics such as microwaves and televisions, can be heavily damaged and rendered scrap with low voltage.

The root cause of low voltage in campgrounds is that most campgrounds have existed for more than 50+ years and were wired during an era where there were no fifth wheels and large class "A"s with each having two to three rooftop ACs.  The solution, especially with federal and state owned campgrounds, has been to simply upgrade the pedestals above ground without addressing changing our the wiring infrastructure within the ground due to high replacement cost.

 

So, there are two approaches to protecting your RV against low voltage:

- Verify that the RV surge protector that you are purchasing will shut down the power to your RV in the event of low voltage

• Although this protects your RV against dangerous low voltage, it does not address low voltage

- Same as above, but also add a Hughes Autoformer Voltage Booster between your RV Surge Protector and your campground pedestal:

• https://hughesautoformers.com/voltage-boosters/

The Hughes Autoformer boosts the voltage up to 10% as needed which helps you continue to run your AC motors and other electronics without risk of damage. The Hughes Autoformer also adds the benefit of additional surge protection for your RV. 

 

 

[Dr4Film]

@MIRIAM I would highly recommend purchasing the remote display for your transfer switch. Search the Internet as the prices vary significantly from hundreds of dollars to less than ten dollars.  You need model #40299 Remote Display.

https://www.southwire.com/power-management/recreational-power/remote-display-rv-pwr-monitor-for-ats-w-lcd-navig/p/40299

Here's one for less than $10 plus shipping. https://tinyurl.com/mszwf3hj

Install it in a convenient location where you can view it throughout the day or night.