Jeff H Posted July 3 Share Posted July 3 Will get to work on my homework tomorrow evening, hopefully the dog doesn't eat it before that 🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted July 3 Share Posted July 3 18 minutes ago, Jeff H said: Will get to work on my homework tomorrow evening, hopefully the dog doesn't eat it before that 🙂 10-4. WE will find out...and you WILL know... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VinceB Posted July 3 Author Share Posted July 3 I'm putting it off until fall - to friggin' hot here now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff H Posted July 4 Share Posted July 4 All right had a moment to open the FRB and knowing what to look for (although if I had taken the time to read, it was right there in front of me) I found it right away. It appears to be an IRD rather than a BIRD, which makes sense based on the chassis batteries never charging on shore power. This I assume will change some of the testing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted July 4 Share Posted July 4 11 hours ago, Jeff H said: All right had a moment to open the FRB and knowing what to look for (although if I had taken the time to read, it was right there in front of me) I found it right away. It appears to be an IRD rather than a BIRD, which makes sense based on the chassis batteries never charging on shore power. This I assume will change some of the testing. Everything you need to do was written ORIGINALLY for the person that started this test. You need to read and click on the links and understand how it works... He did and then figured it out. Here is a PDF of the IRD... https://intellitec.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/53-00629-000.pdf NOW....remember...read the manual. Page 239. You have NO WAY of charging the CHASSIS when parked and ON SHORE (likewise the Genny). They are ON THEIR OWN. BUT, the IRD allows you to CHARGE the HOUSE whilst driving... That is what the IRD does. You do NOT have, like the EARLER Windsor's did a BIRD. FINALLY had to pull your manual. Monaco didn't for whatever REASON upgrade the systems. YOU HAVE NO BiDIRECTIONAL CHARGING OR BIRD... Read the PDF. You need to put on a different HAT...though. MAIN for the IRD is the CHASSIS BANK. The AUXILLARY is the HOUSE. Maybe my brain is wired wrong (some say it was never wired at all or right...LOL), BUT, IF Intellitec had said CHASSIS and HOUSE...it would have been easier for me to FOLLOW.... From the TOP....do this... You need, really, 50 Amp power....but you can use the Generator....it will be a bit noiser...but it WORKS. FIRST TESTING.... RECORD the VOLTAGES.. and report. You can copy this and edit and insert or whatever. ALL AC or Genny or NOT Running (Engine) OFF. If you have solar, then find the controller and disconnect EACH BATTER lead...or climb up and throw a Blanket or poly tarp or whatever OVER THE PANELS.... IRD TESTING... PHASE 1....Use a needle or a paper clip or a SKINNY meter probe whatever to get a probe into the Connector. ON THE PCB... BLACK - Should be GROUND. Continuity or OHMS to a GOOD GROUND. RED - Voltage to GROUND (Chassis bare spot or BLACK) ...when I say VOLTAGE that means....around 12 VDC, Expect the SAME as the CHASSIS BANK... BLUE - Voltage to Ground.... HOUSE BANK - Battery Voltage to GROUND IRD TESTING... Phase 2 GENNY RUNNING.... OR on 50 Amp....or 30 amp...just do NOT want a 20 amp hookup... RED - Voltage Blue - Voltage IRD TESTING... Phase 3 Genny STILL running or on AC power.... TURN ON THE KEY....do NOT START THE engine Red - Voltage Blue - Voltage Chassis Bank - Voltage (obviously to GROUND). TROMBETTA TESTING....Phase 1 BOTH BANKS OFF....same DEAL...NO GENNY...NO AC....NO ENGINE... SOLAR covered or disconnected. LEFT STUD - Voltage to GROUND RIGHT STUD - Voltage to GROUND. NOW it gets tricky. You NEED to be able to measure the VOLTAGE on the WHITE and PURPLE wires. I don't know if you can get meter leads under there. If you get two short "Alligator leads"...this is a Jumper with an alligator clip on each end. Amazon has them.... IF NOT...then you are going to have to use TWO needles or straight pins and push them THROUGH the wires. IF you can use a small wrench and get under the Trombetta and loosen the TWO terminals, then Slide a WIRE on to each. MARK obviously...Need to TEST the VOLTAGE on White and PURPLE. WHITE will be GROUND...so if you can JUST get a wire or clip on the PURPLE...that is needed. Purple - Voltage to GROUND. TROMBETTA TESTING....Phase 2 Turn ON one BANK....then repeat the above....except NOT THE PURPLE. All this is....IDENTIFYING if LEFT is HOUSE or CHASSIS. NOW...if you can see this in the cabling...and I can't....you need to know and MARK (piece of Duct Tape with just an H or C) the cables. Purple - Voltage (to GROUND) TROMBETTA TESTING....Phase 3 House (Stud) - Voltage... AC or GENNY ON...to GROUND. Inverter should be SHOWING CHARGE. Chassis (Stud) - Voltage... House Battery - Voltage Chassis Battery - Voltage Stud to STUD - Voltage Purple - Voltage TROMBETTA TESTING....Phase 4 OK....EXACTLY THE SAME AS ABOVE..... EXCEPT...NO AC ON...or Genny of course... ENGINE RUNNING...let it run for maybe 5 minutes...there is a DELAY for the Heaters in the Air Intake to calm down.... House (Stud) - Voltage... AC or GENNY OFF. Inverter should NOT be SHOWING CHARGE. Chassis (Stud) - Voltage... House Battery - Voltage Chassis Battery - Voltage Stud to STUD - Voltage Purple - Voltage It is a busy time for me....Dishwasher just died at home and we have a lot going on. Sometimes I will pop back quickly...others not so. UNTIL we have the above and UNTIL I can read and digest the voltages...just HANG TIGHT... I WILL TELL YOU THIS... HERE is what I EXPECT on the FINAL TROMBETTA TESTING....ENGINE warms up for a few minutes... House (Stud) - Voltage... - SAME as the HOUSE BATTERY Chassis (Stud) - Voltage... SAME as the CHASSIS BATTERY House Battery - Voltage Chassis Battery - Voltage Stud to STUD - Voltage ZERO...as there is should be NO VOLTAGE across the CONTACTS... Purple - Voltage 12 VDC.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff H Posted July 6 Share Posted July 6 (edited) On 7/4/2024 at 9:52 AM, Tom Cherry said: Everything you need to do was written ORIGINALLY for the person that started this test. You need to read and click on the links and understand how it works... He did and then figured it out. Here is a PDF of the IRD... https://intellitec.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/53-00629-000.pdf NOW....remember...read the manual. Page 239. You have NO WAY of charging the CHASSIS when parked and ON SHORE (likewise the Genny). They are ON THEIR OWN. BUT, the IRD allows you to CHARGE the HOUSE whilst driving... That is what the IRD does. You do NOT have, like the EARLER Windsor's did a BIRD. FINALLY had to pull your manual. Monaco didn't for whatever REASON upgrade the systems. YOU HAVE NO BiDIRECTIONAL CHARGING OR BIRD... Read the PDF. You need to put on a different HAT...though. MAIN for the IRD is the CHASSIS BANK. The AUXILLARY is the HOUSE. Maybe my brain is wired wrong (some say it was never wired at all or right...LOL), BUT, IF Intellitec had said CHASSIS and HOUSE...it would have been easier for me to FOLLOW.... From the TOP....do this... You need, really, 50 Amp power....but you can use the Generator....it will be a bit noiser...but it WORKS. FIRST TESTING.... RECORD the VOLTAGES.. and report. You can copy this and edit and insert or whatever. ALL AC or Genny or NOT Running (Engine) OFF. If you have solar, then find the controller and disconnect EACH BATTER lead...or climb up and throw a Blanket or poly tarp or whatever OVER THE PANELS.... IRD TESTING... PHASE 1....Use a needle or a paper clip or a SKINNY meter probe whatever to get a probe into the Connector. ON THE PCB... BLACK - Should be GROUND. Continuity or OHMS to a GOOD GROUND. RED - Voltage to GROUND (Chassis bare spot or BLACK) ...when I say VOLTAGE that means....around 12 VDC, Expect the SAME as the CHASSIS BANK... BLUE - Voltage to Ground.... HOUSE BANK - Battery Voltage to GROUND IRD TESTING... Phase 2 GENNY RUNNING.... OR on 50 Amp....or 30 amp...just do NOT want a 20 amp hookup... RED - Voltage Blue - Voltage IRD TESTING... Phase 3 Genny STILL running or on AC power.... TURN ON THE KEY....do NOT START THE engine Red - Voltage Blue - Voltage Chassis Bank - Voltage (obviously to GROUND). TROMBETTA TESTING....Phase 1 BOTH BANKS OFF....same DEAL...NO GENNY...NO AC....NO ENGINE... SOLAR covered or disconnected. LEFT STUD - Voltage to GROUND RIGHT STUD - Voltage to GROUND. NOW it gets tricky. You NEED to be able to measure the VOLTAGE on the WHITE and PURPLE wires. I don't know if you can get meter leads under there. If you get two short "Alligator leads"...this is a Jumper with an alligator clip on each end. Amazon has them.... IF NOT...then you are going to have to use TWO needles or straight pins and push them THROUGH the wires. IF you can use a small wrench and get under the Trombetta and loosen the TWO terminals, then Slide a WIRE on to each. MARK obviously...Need to TEST the VOLTAGE on White and PURPLE. WHITE will be GROUND...so if you can JUST get a wire or clip on the PURPLE...that is needed. Purple - Voltage to GROUND. TROMBETTA TESTING....Phase 2 Turn ON one BANK....then repeat the above....except NOT THE PURPLE. All this is....IDENTIFYING if LEFT is HOUSE or CHASSIS. NOW...if you can see this in the cabling...and I can't....you need to know and MARK (piece of Duct Tape with just an H or C) the cables. Purple - Voltage (to GROUND) TROMBETTA TESTING....Phase 3 House (Stud) - Voltage... AC or GENNY ON...to GROUND. Inverter should be SHOWING CHARGE. Chassis (Stud) - Voltage... House Battery - Voltage Chassis Battery - Voltage Stud to STUD - Voltage Purple - Voltage TROMBETTA TESTING....Phase 4 OK....EXACTLY THE SAME AS ABOVE..... EXCEPT...NO AC ON...or Genny of course... ENGINE RUNNING...let it run for maybe 5 minutes...there is a DELAY for the Heaters in the Air Intake to calm down.... House (Stud) - Voltage... AC or GENNY OFF. Inverter should NOT be SHOWING CHARGE. Chassis (Stud) - Voltage... House Battery - Voltage Chassis Battery - Voltage Stud to STUD - Voltage Purple - Voltage It is a busy time for me....Dishwasher just died at home and we have a lot going on. Sometimes I will pop back quickly...others not so. UNTIL we have the above and UNTIL I can read and digest the voltages...just HANG TIGHT... I WILL TELL YOU THIS... HERE is what I EXPECT on the FINAL TROMBETTA TESTING....ENGINE warms up for a few minutes... House (Stud) - Voltage... - SAME as the HOUSE BATTERY Chassis (Stud) - Voltage... SAME as the CHASSIS BATTERY House Battery - Voltage Chassis Battery - Voltage Stud to STUD - Voltage ZERO...as there is should be NO VOLTAGE across the CONTACTS... Purple - Voltage 12 VDC.... Posted Thursday at 09:52 AM On 7/3/2024 at 9:57 PM, Jeff H said: All right had a moment to open the FRB and knowing what to look for (although if I had taken the time to read, it was right there in front of me) I found it right away. It appears to be an IRD rather than a BIRD, which makes sense based on the chassis batteries never charging on shore power. This I assume will change some of the testing. IRD TESTING... PHASE 1....Use a needle or a paper clip or a SKINNY meter probe whatever to get a probe into the Connector. ON THE PCB... BLACK - Should be GROUND. Continuity or OHMS to a GOOD GROUND. Yes RED - Voltage to GROUND (Chassis bare spot or BLACK) ...when I say VOLTAGE that means....around 12 VDC, Expect the SAME as the CHASSIS BANK... Yes, with ignition on 12.6 BLUE - Voltage to Ground.... Yes with the engine running on and off for the first couple minutes until stable 0-12 HOUSE BANK - Battery Voltage to GROUND 12.6 IRD TESTING... Phase 2 GENNY RUNNING.... OR on 50 Amp....or 30 amp...just do NOT want a 20 amp hookup... RED - Voltage 0 Blue - Voltage 0 IRD TESTING... Phase 3 Genny STILL running or on AC power.... TURN ON THE KEY....do NOT START THE engine Red - Voltage 13.0 - Voltage 0 Chassis Bank - Voltage (obviously to GROUND). 12.6 TROMBETTA TESTING....Phase 1 BOTH BANKS OFF....same DEAL...NO GENNY...NO AC....NO ENGINE... SOLAR covered or disconnected. LEFT STUD - Voltage to GROUND House 0 RIGHT STUD - Voltage to GROUND. Chassis 0 NOW it gets tricky. You NEED to be able to measure the VOLTAGE on the WHITE and PURPLE wires. I don't know if you can get meter leads under there. If you get two short "Alligator leads"...this is a Jumper with an alligator clip on each end. Amazon has them.... IF NOT...then you are going to have to use TWO needles or straight pins and push them THROUGH the wires. IF you can use a small wrench and get under the Trombetta and loosen the TWO terminals, then Slide a WIRE on to each. MARK obviously...Need to TEST the VOLTAGE on White and PURPLE. WHITE will be GROUND...so if you can JUST get a wire or clip on the PURPLE...that is needed. Purple - Voltage to GROUND. 0 TROMBETTA TESTING....Phase 2 Turn ON one BANK....then repeat the above....except NOT THE PURPLE. All this is....IDENTIFYING if LEFT is HOUSE or CHASSIS. NOW...if you can see this in the cabling...and I can't....you need to know and MARK (piece of Duct Tape with just an H or C) the cables. Purple - Voltage (to GROUND) 0 Identification of wires above (visual) TROMBETTA TESTING....Phase 3 House (Stud) - Voltage... AC or GENNY ON...to GROUND. Inverter should be SHOWING CHARGE. Chassis (Stud) - Voltage... 12.6 House Battery - Voltage 13.3 Chassis Battery - Voltage 12.6 Stud to STUD - Voltage 0.8 Purple - Voltage 0 TROMBETTA TESTING....Phase 4 OK....EXACTLY THE SAME AS ABOVE..... EXCEPT...NO AC ON...or Genny of course... ENGINE RUNNING...let it run for maybe 5 minutes...there is a DELAY for the Heaters in the Air Intake to calm down.... House (Stud) - Voltage... AC or GENNY OFF. Inverter should NOT be SHOWING CHARGE. 13.4 Chassis (Stud) - Voltage... 13.9 House Battery - Voltage 13.9 Chassis Battery - Voltage 13.4 Stud to STUD - Voltage 0.6 Purple - Voltage 12.1 It is a busy time for me....Dishwasher just died at home and we have a lot going on. Sometimes I will pop back quickly...others not so. UNTIL we have the above and UNTIL I can read and digest the voltages...just HANG TIGHT... I WILL TELL YOU THIS... HERE is what I EXPECT on the FINAL TROMBETTA TESTING....ENGINE warms up for a few minutes... No need to digest Tom. The IRD is working as advertised. I can hear the Trombetta click but the voltage on the 2 studs does not equalize. I inadvertently left the dash radio on over night so it drew down the chassis battery making it easier to see the difference. So The IRD Sends 12VDC to the coil of the Trombetta when the engine is running and the voltage is over 13VDC; combining the batteries Otherwise batteries are isolated. Engine Off Engine on with genny or shore (to avoid competing charging sources. As a further test with both banks off I applied 12VDC to the coil of the Trombetta. It clicked but there was no continuity on the big studs. I turned on the house batterie(13.4VDC) and tested the voltage from the studs to ground. House side 13.4, Chassis 0, So I need to replace the Trombetta. Or go all out and get the Blue Sea. Edited July 6 by Jeff H Couple wrong answers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted July 6 Share Posted July 6 13 minutes ago, Jeff H said: Posted Thursday at 09:52 AM On 7/3/2024 at 9:57 PM, Jeff H said: All right had a moment to open the FRB and knowing what to look for (although if I had taken the time to read, it was right there in front of me) I found it right away. It appears to be an IRD rather than a BIRD, which makes sense based on the chassis batteries never charging on shore power. This I assume will change some of the testing. IRD TESTING... PHASE 1....Use a needle or a paper clip or a SKINNY meter probe whatever to get a probe into the Connector. ON THE PCB... BLACK - Should be GROUND. Continuity or OHMS to a GOOD GROUND. Yes RED - Voltage to GROUND (Chassis bare spot or BLACK) ...when I say VOLTAGE that means....around 12 VDC, Expect the SAME as the CHASSIS BANK... Yes, with ignition on 12.6 BLUE - Voltage to Ground.... Yes with the engine running on and off for the first couple minutes until stable 0-12 HOUSE BANK - Battery Voltage to GROUND 12.6 IRD TESTING... Phase 2 GENNY RUNNING.... OR on 50 Amp....or 30 amp...just do NOT want a 20 amp hookup... RED - Voltage 0 Blue - Voltage 0 IRD TESTING... Phase 3 Genny STILL running or on AC power.... TURN ON THE KEY....do NOT START THE engine Red - Voltage 13.0 - Voltage 0 Chassis Bank - Voltage (obviously to GROUND). 12.6 TROMBETTA TESTING....Phase 1 BOTH BANKS OFF....same DEAL...NO GENNY...NO AC....NO ENGINE... SOLAR covered or disconnected. LEFT STUD - Voltage to GROUND House 0 RIGHT STUD - Voltage to GROUND. Chassis 0 NOW it gets tricky. You NEED to be able to measure the VOLTAGE on the WHITE and PURPLE wires. I don't know if you can get meter leads under there. If you get two short "Alligator leads"...this is a Jumper with an alligator clip on each end. Amazon has them.... IF NOT...then you are going to have to use TWO needles or straight pins and push them THROUGH the wires. IF you can use a small wrench and get under the Trombetta and loosen the TWO terminals, then Slide a WIRE on to each. MARK obviously...Need to TEST the VOLTAGE on White and PURPLE. WHITE will be GROUND...so if you can JUST get a wire or clip on the PURPLE...that is needed. Purple - Voltage to GROUND. 0 TROMBETTA TESTING....Phase 2 Turn ON one BANK....then repeat the above....except NOT THE PURPLE. All this is....IDENTIFYING if LEFT is HOUSE or CHASSIS. NOW...if you can see this in the cabling...and I can't....you need to know and MARK (piece of Duct Tape with just an H or C) the cables. Purple - Voltage (to GROUND) 0 Identification of wires above (visual) TROMBETTA TESTING....Phase 3 House (Stud) - Voltage... AC or GENNY ON...to GROUND. Inverter should be SHOWING CHARGE. Chassis (Stud) - Voltage... 12.6 House Battery - Voltage 13.3 Chassis Battery - Voltage 12.6 Stud to STUD - Voltage 0.8 Purple - Voltage 0 TROMBETTA TESTING....Phase 4 OK....EXACTLY THE SAME AS ABOVE..... EXCEPT...NO AC ON...or Genny of course... ENGINE RUNNING...let it run for maybe 5 minutes...there is a DELAY for the Heaters in the Air Intake to calm down.... House (Stud) - Voltage... AC or GENNY OFF. Inverter should NOT be SHOWING CHARGE. 13.4 Chassis (Stud) - Voltage... 13.9 House Battery - Voltage 13.9 Chassis Battery - Voltage 13.4 Stud to STUD - Voltage 0.6 Purple - Voltage 12.1 It is a busy time for me....Dishwasher just died at home and we have a lot going on. Sometimes I will pop back quickly...others not so. UNTIL we have the above and UNTIL I can read and digest the voltages...just HANG TIGHT... I WILL TELL YOU THIS... HERE is what I EXPECT on the FINAL TROMBETTA TESTING....ENGINE warms up for a few minutes... No need to digest Tom. The IRD is working as advertised. I can hear the Trombetta click but the voltage on the 2 studs does not equalize. I inadvertently left the dash radio on over night so it drew down the chassis battery making it easier to see the difference. So The IRD Sends 12VDC to the coil of the Trombetta when the engine is running and the voltage is over 13VDC; combining the batteries Otherwise batteries are isolated. Engine Off Engine on with genny or shore (to avoid competing charging sources. As a further test with both banks off I applied 12VDC to the coil of the Trombetta. It clicked but there was no continuity on the big studs. I turned on the house batterie(13.4VDC) and tested the voltage from the studs to ground. House side 13.4, Chassis 0, So I need to replace the Trombetta. Or go all out and get the Blue Sea. Well, FIRST of ALL.... THANKS for providing us data that CAN be reviewed.... Second... YOU NAILED IT. The Trombetta, and I apologize for not remembering if you had a White Rodgers or Trombetta or BIG BOY, has a pitted or burned set of contacts. NOW FWIW....this was NEVER meant to be used with the Intellitec Big Boy. NOW>>>> FWIW....and PLEASE forgive me for TEACHING.. That IRD is only a ONE WAY Charging System. MANY (we have another topic going) have replaced the board and installed a FULL BIRD (Intellitec Diesels) Module...so they have BiDirectional charging... which is the current system on all Monaco's and was phased in for various models. The Diesel2 sends out a PULSED Voltage. The INITIAL signal is 12 VDC to "Lock IN" the coil. REMEMBER, this was DESIGNED for a Big Boy....but it has worked...even though it surprised several of us on a PURE 12 VDC Solenoid...like the T or the WR. SO, if you wanted FULL TIME BIRD (BiDirectional) Charging...then you would have to replace it...or if it DIED... Installation is easy. You DO NOT NEED the Genny signal. That was an afterthought and Monaco has several different configurations. SOME WITH and SOME WITHOUT the Genny terminal. All the later versions (at least 2008 in the Camelot) have NO GENNY WIRE... SO, the way the Diesel 2 SHOULD work... Either with the ENGINE running or the Genny ON... An initial 12 VDC or CLUNK. That holds it on. THEN the Diesel2 is supposed to start PULSING the solenoid. On the Big Boy, you can actually feel it PULSE....very faint...but it does. If you measure the control (Coil) terminals...it should be at least 3 VDC. The two links or topics that I provided...one in an 2002 Windsor, confirm that. I have measured it on my rig and a few others...and had countless members do the same. IT IS A LOWER voltage.. IF the Voltage is NOT dropping to the 3.4 or maybe above up to 5 or 6 Volts range...then it is NOT operating as designed. OK....the decision, to me...is this. The White Rodgers equivalent was around $65 or so. The Trombetta, for replacement, needs to be UPGRADED. Folks order the "SILVER CONTACTS" model. That is well documented and they last, supposedly, forever. BUT, you still only have HOUSE being Charged while driving. NOW, some use an AC charger for the Chassis when parked...but that needs to be the THREE PHASE or STAGE "Charger/Tender".... not some cheap charger as you will overcharge and boil the Chassis Batteries. NOW...if you want to go FULL BIRD...then you would have to add this...It WOULD work with the Trombetta, I THINK...but you should call Trombetta and tell them it will be a REDUCED Voltage. We KNOW that It will work with the White Rodgers...so you could replace it with the White Rodgers and all would be well...just match the FLA or Current rating.... AGAIN.. $65 or so. BUT, if you want to upgrade, and that is easy...you just cut the wires off the board and use them...You will NEED a HOUSE voltage wire to connect. BUT, that is an additional $85 or so... Google Intellitec BIRD Diesel2 and follow the links. https://www.dyersonline.com/intellitec-battery-isolator-relay-delay-diesel.html?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=shoppingengine&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw1qO0BhDwARIsANfnkv8vJTSOL8AiRAbMbRko9DlrDOPaqc6E2EhrHj3E0Qc12KGrytEPNv4aAq0lEALw_wcB The ML-ACR is around, I was told, $230. It goes in the REAR. NOW....here is WHERE it gets TRICKY...so Follow Closely...I might get LOST...LOL. If there are TWO wires on one of the terminals of the Trombetta...you need to test. ONE would be coming from the BOOST SWITCH up Front. Then the SECOND Wire would be the SOLENOID wire from the IRD...which is up front. I HOPE THAT IS THE CASE...Because. You WILL have to replace the Boost Switch with the one supplied by Blue Seas. GREAT...then the WIRE coming from the REMOTE (New) Boost Control will use that "RED" wire. BUT, if I hope you luck out...The SOLENOID WIRE from the IRD is a separate RUN...then all you have to do is use THAT wire as the YELLOW (see the Install print on the Blue Seas). THUS...you do NOT have to RUN a new wire. The Yellow Wire is used as a Status and ERROR wire. Most have to run the NEW Yellow wire and that is no fun job. SO, you spend $230...which is in reality, only $165 more as you would have spent that on the Trombetta. You NOW have BIRD charging and a really robust system. I personally, as much as I LOVE Intellitec, spend $150 for the total of the BIRD and a NEW Solenoid...I would have opted for the ML-ACR. HOPE THIS HELPS>>> a bit long....as usual... Again, THANKS for the feedback. I also hope, and I KNOW, that you have learned...your summary was spot on. All I am doing is offering you some options as well as telling you that the nicer Trombetta will be needed... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff H Posted July 6 Share Posted July 6 1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said: Well, FIRST of ALL.... THANKS for providing us data that CAN be reviewed.... Second... YOU NAILED IT. The Trombetta, and I apologize for not remembering if you had a White Rodgers or Trombetta or BIG BOY, has a pitted or burned set of contacts. NOW FWIW....this was NEVER meant to be used with the Intellitec Big Boy. NOW>>>> FWIW....and PLEASE forgive me for TEACHING.. That IRD is only a ONE WAY Charging System. MANY (we have another topic going) have replaced the board and installed a FULL BIRD (Intellitec Diesels) Module...so they have BiDirectional charging... which is the current system on all Monaco's and was phased in for various models. The Diesel2 sends out a PULSED Voltage. The INITIAL signal is 12 VDC to "Lock IN" the coil. REMEMBER, this was DESIGNED for a Big Boy....but it has worked...even though it surprised several of us on a PURE 12 VDC Solenoid...like the T or the WR. SO, if you wanted FULL TIME BIRD (BiDirectional) Charging...then you would have to replace it...or if it DIED... Installation is easy. You DO NOT NEED the Genny signal. That was an afterthought and Monaco has several different configurations. SOME WITH and SOME WITHOUT the Genny terminal. All the later versions (at least 2008 in the Camelot) have NO GENNY WIRE... SO, the way the Diesel 2 SHOULD work... Either with the ENGINE running or the Genny ON... An initial 12 VDC or CLUNK. That holds it on. THEN the Diesel2 is supposed to start PULSING the solenoid. On the Big Boy, you can actually feel it PULSE....very faint...but it does. If you measure the control (Coil) terminals...it should be at least 3 VDC. The two links or topics that I provided...one in an 2002 Windsor, confirm that. I have measured it on my rig and a few others...and had countless members do the same. IT IS A LOWER voltage.. IF the Voltage is NOT dropping to the 3.4 or maybe above up to 5 or 6 Volts range...then it is NOT operating as designed. OK....the decision, to me...is this. The White Rodgers equivalent was around $65 or so. The Trombetta, for replacement, needs to be UPGRADED. Folks order the "SILVER CONTACTS" model. That is well documented and they last, supposedly, forever. BUT, you still only have HOUSE being Charged while driving. NOW, some use an AC charger for the Chassis when parked...but that needs to be the THREE PHASE or STAGE "Charger/Tender".... not some cheap charger as you will overcharge and boil the Chassis Batteries. NOW...if you want to go FULL BIRD...then you would have to add this...It WOULD work with the Trombetta, I THINK...but you should call Trombetta and tell them it will be a REDUCED Voltage. We KNOW that It will work with the White Rodgers...so you could replace it with the White Rodgers and all would be well...just match the FLA or Current rating.... AGAIN.. $65 or so. BUT, if you want to upgrade, and that is easy...you just cut the wires off the board and use them...You will NEED a HOUSE voltage wire to connect. BUT, that is an additional $85 or so... Google Intellitec BIRD Diesel2 and follow the links. https://www.dyersonline.com/intellitec-battery-isolator-relay-delay-diesel.html?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=shoppingengine&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw1qO0BhDwARIsANfnkv8vJTSOL8AiRAbMbRko9DlrDOPaqc6E2EhrHj3E0Qc12KGrytEPNv4aAq0lEALw_wcB The ML-ACR is around, I was told, $230. It goes in the REAR. NOW....here is WHERE it gets TRICKY...so Follow Closely...I might get LOST...LOL. If there are TWO wires on one of the terminals of the Trombetta...you need to test. ONE would be coming from the BOOST SWITCH up Front. Then the SECOND Wire would be the SOLENOID wire from the IRD...which is up front. I HOPE THAT IS THE CASE...Because. You WILL have to replace the Boost Switch with the one supplied by Blue Seas. GREAT...then the WIRE coming from the REMOTE (New) Boost Control will use that "RED" wire. BUT, if I hope you luck out...The SOLENOID WIRE from the IRD is a separate RUN...then all you have to do is use THAT wire as the YELLOW (see the Install print on the Blue Seas). THUS...you do NOT have to RUN a new wire. The Yellow Wire is used as a Status and ERROR wire. Most have to run the NEW Yellow wire and that is no fun job. SO, you spend $230...which is in reality, only $165 more as you would have spent that on the Trombetta. You NOW have BIRD charging and a really robust system. I personally, as much as I LOVE Intellitec, spend $150 for the total of the BIRD and a NEW Solenoid...I would have opted for the ML-ACR. HOPE THIS HELPS>>> a bit long....as usual... Again, THANKS for the feedback. I also hope, and I KNOW, that you have learned...your summary was spot on. All I am doing is offering you some options as well as telling you that the nicer Trombetta will be needed... Thanks Tom There is only a violet on one side of the coil and a white on the other. So, I will need to run wires for the Blue Sea option if I go that way. Judging by your reply there is not a wire chase somewhere. I have had issues only a few times after being parked for weeks (4 or more). If I am worried, I have a "smart" charger in the battery bay that I plug into the block heater outlet. I also have one of those GooLoo jump packs I am waiting to use It works so well I haven't had a dead battery since I got it 🙂 ). With the battery disconnect off it has gone months and started like it was running 5 minutes ago. So I will have to give it some thought. Worst case I can put a booster cable between the red on the Chassis and the red on the House as a temporary measure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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