Generator CRANKS SLOW...Power Source ? 2004 Monaco

[Kris G]

MODERATOR EDIT.  This new topic was started and is a common problem. Our Guidelines for a new topic request that a search is done. If the GENERATOR STARTING key words had been used, then there is a recent topic that details the issue and the solution. HOWEVER...since it also involves a HYRAULIC PUMP .... with the SAME Cabling...leaving this as a NEW TOPIC was allowed.

INADEQUATE OEM CABLING is or may be PART of the issue...  There is a post below that references the original discussion (5 pages) and the solution...as well as a real world test.

It is requested that a key word search, as required by the guidelines be done... The problem is well known as well as the proper solution....perhaps this new post will also alert members to the issue.

END of EDIT.

I have a 2004 Monaco Executive 40 PBT. Which Batteries Start the Generator ??? I’m having some slight issues with Generator starting, Have to use the boost and my front 2 slides as well as the generator slide are moving super slow ??? Wondering if this could be an issue with the Chassis batteries or the house Batteries ???? Does anyone here have any idea ????

[klcdenver]

Ginny is normally on house batteries. You can verify by turning your disconnects one at a time and try cranking.

[Ivan K]

The Executive could be the same as our Signature in this aspect and generator as well as hydraulic pump would run from chassis. Ours does so from factory. Easy to check as above.

[vito.a]

It could be either but should be the chassis batteries.  The idea is you run your house systems until the house batteries are low and then start your generator from the chassis battery to recharge.  

Because it's such a long cable run many of these coaches require you to start the main engine first and put it on fast idle.  Then crank the generator.  

Some folks have installed another battery up front in the generator compartment to shorten the cable run.  

[Kris G]

If the Chassis Battery is running weak would that affect the Slideouts ???

I want to thank everyone for the info. We bought this 4 years ago and have had to learn everything on our own. I think we have done wonderfully, but it’s only because of websites like this. It’s saved our butts so many times…..

[Tom Cherry]

10 hours ago, Kris G said:

I have a 2004 Monaco Executive 40 PBT. Which Batteries Start the Generator ??? I’m having some slight issues with Generator starting, Have to use the boost and my front 2 slides as well as the generator slide are moving super slow ??? Wondering if this could be an issue with the Chassis batteries or the house Batteries ???? Does anyone here have any idea ????

OK....lets address the GENNY STARTING....as that is an ISSUE....with a known fix.... NEXT...since I wrote the following.....first and it would be a massive edit....SCROLL DOWN TO THE END for the REST OF THE STORY....

See the PRINT.  The Dynasty and above are the same.  CHASSIS.  Follow the wiring.  Start at the Genny.  That goes to the BONDED STUDS.  Then chase the 4/0 cable to right side of the print.  It does to the TOP Resettable Circuit Breaker.  Then follow the WIRE from the CB.  It foes to the "BIG SOLENOID" stud.  IF you follow that 4/0 cable back to the left... the DISCONNECT SWITCH.  THEN...the OTHER side of the DISCONNECT...CHASSIS BANK...

OK...NOW WHAT IS THE ISSUE.  DUMB MONACO.  Your Genny has the STUPID undersized Cables.  They work for SOME FOLKS....but there is a GROWING number of folks that think they need an AUX battery. This was finally discussed and DEBUNKED... and TESTED.  The FIX..  Replace the 2 Gauge (#2) cables...BOTH GROUND and POSTIVE with 2/0 (00).

See the topic below...it is almost a thesis on this.  Do that..  NO ISSUES.  NOW, the Caveat...  It DOES take a GOOD pair of CHASSIS batteries to start the Genny.  One would WONDER....My ENGINE STARTS.  The Engine has a short, relatively speaking, 4/0 (0000) run.  BUT, even with the 4/0 (0000) run UP FRONT...the REAL voltage drop issue is in the #2 Gauge CABLES.  There is a calculation on Voltage Drop in the thread. 
 

The member changed out the cables.  BINGO... It works.  NOW, whenever a member put in an AUX Battery, up front....the FIRST thing they did...abandon the #2 Gauge cables.  IF the cables had been replaced, as has been suggested for the last few years, the AUX Battery would not have been needed...

Remember I said THESIS.  The SOLUTION to this was posted back in October...but it kept coming up again and again.  OK...scroll up on PAGE 5.  The Problem was posted around JUNE 15.  Read from there....and you will understand that the issue is inadequate cabling...

 

OK>>>>> NOW AS TO THE GENNY and HOUSE SLIDES.  There is a VOLTAGE issue with the SYSTEM.  IF you follow the PRINTS...the "Hydraulic" Motor is also wired with a #2 Gauge cable.  Now the Pump PROBABLY only required say 100 Amps of so.  The Genny pulls over 200 Amps.

SO....there are TWO, IMHO, issues.

Genny....common issue.  REALLY GETS BAD when the Chassis is LOW. 

Hydraulic.  There can BE TWO ISSUES....so before we write off your CHASSIS... I would do THIS.  FIRST look at the studs or the connections  up front.  Check the 4/0 (0000) feed.  CLEAN THEM ALL.  Then go to the Pump.  CHECK the connections on the Solenoid.  CLEAN and tighten. NEXT UP...a COMMON ISSUE...chase the GROUND back to the Chassis.  There is a GROUND STUD.  Remove the cables and clean it.  THEN....

GO to the BATTERY BANKS.  Behind the box or somewhere around there...there are TWO GROUND STUD CABLE connections...maybe more...chase the GROUND cables ( 4/0000) and remove the cables and clean it all up. I had a similar issue on my Genny.  NO START. Batteries were FINE.  The GROUND Studs were the issue.  Cleaned....and never an issue.

IF you do all this...then still have the issue with the Hydraulic....there is only one SURE WAY...  And it is a bit time consuming...

First.. You will need someone to help.  Put your VOM on the CHASSIS bank...in the BOX.  Then start to extend or retract a slide.  NOTE the VOLTAGE.  THEN GO UP FRONT.  Chase the 2 Gauge line from the STUDS to the PUMP.  There will be an INCOMING line.  Do the TEST AGAIN.  If you get a big voltage drop....from what the Chassis Batteries were reading...UNDER LOAD (moving the SLIDE) and the INCOMING to the Pump Solenoid....then you have a problem in the cabling...and it can be anywhere.  I would say that if there is a volt or so....problems.

BUT, now lets DO IT ANOTHER WAY.  TURN OFF BOTH house Disconnects.  Use an Auto Jumper Cable and JUMPER and THEN connect the Positives of the HOUSE and the Chassis.  TURN back on the Disconnects...THIS IS IMPORTANT to do it this way...Start the Genny. This is the SAME as the BOOST.  NOW...let the Genny RUN for awhile....maybe 5 minutes.  The Inverter will be pumping current.  

NOW...repeat the test again.  Put the VOM on the Chassis...  It will be the SAME as the HOUSE...  Run the Slides...  GO UP FRONT....go to the PUMP.  check the INCOMING VOLTAGE...  If the DROP is way LESS, then the Chassis are the problem.  If the DROP is about the same... then there is a cabling problem.

That is the ONLY way to isolate and test. 

I personally would let the Genny RUN for about 4 hours...with the JUMPER.  That will fully recharge the CHASSIS.  THEN TURN OFF the DISCONNECTS...remove the Jumper and see how the Chassis performs.

Good Luck...

 

 

High Current Battery 2004 Dynasty - Signature 38010014.pdf