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Keyless Entry Short


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As always, I want to start by thanking everyone here for continuing to keep me from going absolutely CRAZY when facing some of the issues with our coaches.

I do realize that this topic has come up many times, and I've read hours of posts on both this site and the other one associated with our RV obsession. However, I can't find the solution to my problem, so I am back asking for your help and patience again. You were very helpful last year when I had to rewire the ECU to chassis connector on my rig so I'm hoping someone out there has some great insight into my current problem, which is:

I replaced the Essex keypad on my coach when I bought it in December of 2021 and it has faithfully locked and unlocked my main door and all my bay doors since then. Until last week. Then it started blowing the p/s act and d/s act 15-amp fuses in the FRB. After reading all the posts, I unhooked the solenoid wires on all bay doors. Still blows the p/s act and d/s act fuses when I type in my 5-digit unlock code. Using a 12-volt battery, I checked the function of the main door actuator and it operates freely in both directions (reversing the polarity to change from lock to unlock, etc.). Based on more reading, I took the dash apart and under the radio area I found four big 5-pin relays. Assuming these were the actuator relays, I removed them one-at-a-time and bench tested them - all seem fine (NC shorted without power & NO infinite, NO shorted with +12VDC applied & NC infinite, etc.). I also removed all four at once and typed in my 5-digit unlock code and blew the fuses again, so these four relays are apparently not related to the lock/unlock function. I do not find any relays located in the FRB, other than the ones that are soldered onto the Intellitec PCB#1 (73-00835), which has the labels for the lock/unlock actuators. I took out this board and checked all connectors, looked for bad solder joints, etc. but find nothing obviously wrong. Do these boards go bad? How would I test it? Is there somewhere else I should be looking for the relays? I obviously have a short somewhere, but don't know where to look next. Please advise.
Thanks very much!
Eric

P.S. - The coach hasn't been moved in over a month - just been sitting at the side of my house hooked up to 30 amp outlet (to keep batteries topped up).

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I have the optional "Viper" security system on my coach and I have located the main module for it (in the rat's nest behind the instrument panel). I have never tried to use the system because I don't have any working key fobs for it. However, I did try to trace the wires from it to the actuator relays but had no luck as the wires all go into a huge bundle and drop through the floor into the FRB. No sign of any removable/replaceable relays. I'm still wondering if on my coach this function is controlled by the PCB#1 board. It has relays on it and labels that indicate it is involved with lock/unlock functions and p/s & d/s actuators. I just don't have any idea how I would test it or any of the components on it. I'm very hesitant to start unsoldering components to test them without knowing if the output from the board is even bad.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • Solution
Posted (edited)

Well, this one sure took a lot of diagnosis! I traced wires from the back of the RV to the front and finally decided the problem was specific to PCB board #1 in the FRB. Took me a while to find a schematic for it but I finally found one from a 2007 Monaco Signature wiring diagram. I removed this board and bench-checked every component and connection on it but found no problem. After doing a bunch of testing on all the inputs and outputs of this board (5 connectors totaling 26 wires in/out) I narrowed it down to the wire going to J5, Pin 6 was grounded and shouldn't be. It went out J3 from the FRB to a "Johny Jumper" on the schematic! Had no idea what that was so the hunt was on again. Finally realized that was the name they gave to the 2-pin connector on the entry door that is spring loaded, which completes the circuit for the front door when it is closed. Removed the 2 screws on that little gizmo and VOILA - mouse-chewed wires! This is the 2nd time the darned mice have gotten to my wiring. Last time they disabled my Magnum Energy Remote (where I monitor battery status, set up AGS, etc.). This time they got the two wires for the front door lock and also chewed through three wires that go to my VORAD anti-collision/adaptive cruise control system. Dirty little buggers. Hope anyone that has this problem in the future looks there much sooner than I did!

Edited by JESPHDUSA
correct typo
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Wow, you are persistent. 

Glad you found it. 

 

When I had trouble with my slide controller I did the same thing.  There were ~10-12 wire on the harness, only one was suppose to be ground.  Checked all of them and found another wire to ground.  Started checking different locations before I finally found the problem. 

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Thanks, Jim.

Most people would say stubborn, but I will take your kind words and just say thank you! 

I almost gave up several times and just used the key, but I really hate when something doesn't work as designed - particularly when it's really handy.

I still have to put the whole cockpit & dash back together, but I'm feeling pretty good right now. 😄

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35 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

Wow, you are persistent. 

Glad you found it. 

 

When I had trouble with my slide controller I did the same thing.  There were ~10-12 wire on the harness, only one was suppose to be ground.  Checked all of them and found another wire to ground.  Started checking different locations before I finally found the problem. 

Besides, when I look back at all the older posts and see some of the AMAZING things you've done with your coach, it inspires me!!

I'm seriously considering removing my carpet and tile and putting in hardwood laminate like you did (I have dogs too). Just not sure if I'm quite that ambitious.

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1 minute ago, JESPHDUSA said:

Besides, when I look back at all the older posts and see some of the AMAZING things you've done with your coach, it inspires me!!

I'm seriously considering removing my carpet and tile and putting in hardwood laminate like you did (I have dogs too). Just not sure if I'm quite that ambitious.

Have not been following this.  But…a comment for whoever might be.

Monaco did a humongous upgrade circa 2005 for the Dynasty and UP.  That wiring, unless one has downoloaded the 200 prints and tried to chase circuits and such is a “Horse of a different PLANET”.

My Camelot is simple.  The takeaway.

There are 13 odd Intellitec Proprietary Circuit boards up front.  Maybe 7 or so.  The ones in the rear have a different chip so you can push buttons and look at lights.  The ones upfront have relays and components.

So, if someone says…hey, go to the FRB…look at a fuse….and have never studied the prints nor realize that these boards are complex….or they have an older Dynasty…..a newbie or such will spend hours hunting for a fuse or whatever that was discontinued 3 years ago.

I have self taught myself to blow up the boards and look for “labels” of circuits.  I was pleased that I helped a member recently get back his Front HVAC due to a bad circuit breaker….

SO….as Jim says….lots of things remain the same…but until one has been in the innards of the two bays…it is to me…a different planet.

Your perseverance and finding the chewed wire is great.  Unfortunately the connectors on the Dynasty are prone to moisture and corrosion. NEVER trust a multipin NEW dynasty mating hookup. Take loose…look and inspect….assuming you have isolated the right fuse…

Thanks for the comments .

 

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