Smaller AC in bedroom?

[96 EVO]

1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

 

Let us know if you add one.  

Very unlikely Tom!

I have no issues running all 3 of my current HP's on generator power.

The thread has drifted a bit, which I don't mind.

Original question was about switching out a 15K to a 11K A/C (when one fails), and whether that would drop my amp draw enough to run the 11K and one of the 15K's on 30A shore power.

[Paul J A]

On 7/14/2024 at 12:22 PM, Robert92867 said:

I like the 11k BTU unit in my bedroom.  It's a lot quieter than the 13K in the front.

Is the hole in the roof the same size for each of those? Duct alignment??

 

T Y.

[Paul J A]

On 7/11/2024 at 11:57 AM, Tom Cherry said:

Not quite sure what the objective is or the final solution.

• All three of the units are working now...? Confirm Please
• You want to replace NOW, the working 15K unit in the bedroom with a 11K unit....Heat PUMP, I assume? Confirm Please
• Therefore you will need to install the DUMB DOWN adapter or Controller (AC Board) and keep the OEM so that your 5 Button CCC MPX will work with the present control system.
• When one or more....of the OTHER TWO units FAILS...you will replace with the new CCC2 Penguins...and replace the Bedroom controller so that they all work off the CCC1 MPX system.

NOW a question...OR A THEORY...  Based on looking at YOUR 42 PDQ and MY 20 PDQ, the SHOWER SIDE has the DUCT WORK RUN BROKEN.  Hence the ROAD SIDE, where your Shower is, has the Bedroom Run Duct SHUT OFF at the wall (adjacent to the SHOWER.  THAT causes you to have the "Meat Locker effect in the Bedroom. 

Now, that also has a GOOD SIDE.  The Heat Pump in the Bedroom is WAY MORE efficient.  Not having the FULL Length duct work caused your Bedroom unit to run HOTTER...regardless of mode.  If you go up and pull the covers.  Use a Thermal (laser do) pyrometer.  Measure several points on the compressor and lines and such.  I can NOT remember the exact numbers...but the temps were at least 10...maybe 15 or more hotter in the REAR than in the FRONT.  PANICKED, was I, and Dometic said....NORMAL for a MONACO rig where they SHUT DOWN or closed ONE SIDE of the Full Length RUN. 

Will give you a LOT MORE Heat in HP mode....and you KNOW it overcools as it is.  I set my Bedroom about 2 or 3 degrees higher in cooling.  You HAVE THE LUXURY of 3 units.  So, you have 42.5 K in 42 Feet or about 1K per Foot.  Mine is way under that. I have 30K in 40 feet...or 0.75K per FOOT.  That is MARGINAL...

OK, from a THEORETICAL stand point.  The EMS is kicking or shutting OFF your Rear AC when you exceed the 30 Amp set point.  That is measured off the White Neutral.

If you really want to run BOTH AC's, then you need to rethink your Magnum setup.  When you are on 30 Amps...  turn DOWN the CHARGE PERCENTAGE (or whatever it is called) from 80% (which is where I run mine to keep from overworking the 15 YO Inverter.  Magnum sets it to a DEFAULT of 90%.  OK, on a NEW inverter....you can do 100%.  WHY?? All you are trying to do on 30 AMPS is "MAINTAIN".  One does NOT NEED 100%....  That only heats up the FET's and such and your Inverter runs WAY HOTTER....and HEAT is the death of them... PER MAGNUM.

SO, crank down the % Charge Rate to 30%.  Then, you SHOULD pull less current as the Magnum knows to SLOW DOWN..  

I'd experiment with that...  

Beyond that, and I have never had the need or the inclination to be TOTALLY Selfcontained and LIVE OFF THE GRID as well as NOT running the Genny.  I'd leave the AC's alone.  I'd spend the extra minute when I have to exist on 30 Amps cranking down the Magnum...and if that was NOT enough, I'd get rid of the crappy OEM solar. We have either 60 or 65 Watts...and it ain't NOWHERE near that (look at the controller)...60 Watts, in theory, gives you 5 Amps.  BUT, if you look at the Losses and such...a 60 probably only give a smidge, NEW, over 4 Amps.  Replace the old panel and add another one.  SAY 120 Amps.  You could THEN actually SHUT OFF the Charger (you can experiment right now...or set the Charge Rate to 10 or ZERO (if an option)...

You maintain your batteries.  The inverter doesn't PULL or use any power.  The incoming AC is being PASSED THROUGH the internal ATS. You give your old Charger a REST...It appreciates that and it runs COOLER.

That's my take.  We had one really "out there" member that added a 110 VAC Window Unit to his 06 Dynasty.  He HAD also added the SAME Intellitec 750 EMS like we have.  We THINK that is the ONLY Dynasty with the EMS....and NOT OEM.  SO, his solution.  He ran, while driving, the smaller window unit.  

Just a thought.  NOW....why NOT really go FAR OUT?  Replace the Bedroom.  Downgrade the rest.  That is a TOTAL of 38K...or you have 0.904 K per foot.  That is 21% MORE than the shorter TWO Foot SHORTER rigs..  If I had 20% MORE, I would be thrilled...and It would be comfortable.

SO...downsize....go ALL THE WAY..., you could EVEN downsize all of them to 13.5K and have 40.5 K or 0.964.  That would, with a reduced Charging Rate, I predict...even lay a small wager, solve your issue...

Things to think about.  

Your topic is interesting...but it involves just more than a "GUT FEEL" analysis and the idiosyncracies of the Monaco Ducting have to be taken into account...as well as whether you need the HP or the AC more or equally...BUT...the REAL solution.  Put the MH on a DIET...and turning down the Charging Rate is the simplest and most effective...

We had one really "out there" member.  ?????  

[96 EVO]

On 7/11/2024 at 9:57 AM, Tom Cherry said:

  

SO...downsize....go ALL THE WAY..., you could EVEN downsize all of them to 13.5K and have 40.5 K or 0.964.  That would, with a reduced Charging Rate, I predict...even lay a small wager, solve your issue...

 

I'm actually thinking Gary Cole may be right, and the 13.5K and 15K Dometics share the same compressor, which would make that change pointless.

I'm seeing no difference in amp draw on my EMS panel whether I have the center 13.5's, or one of the 15K's running!