Boondocking

[Hancoman]

When boondocking should I turn off chassis battery’s to keep them from running down and eliminate the possibility of not starting. I have had a couple of times the batteries have run down I have not been able to start the generator or the couch. Thanks in advance.

[Ivan K]

Since I suspect yours is similar to ours, you wouldn't be able to start the generator with chassis off. Plus you should have a battery maintainer, so whatever is keeping up your house batteries should top off your chassis, if it still works. For extended boondocking you should have some charging source or run the generator once a while, long enough, even on properly set AGS. Also consider that starting a generator for just a short time consumes more power than maintainer can replenish. If you are away from the rig for days and no charging source at all, then disconnecting batteries might be for you. Just my opinion...

[JOHN McCLURE]

I keep a relatively cheep charger plugged into AC and connected to the engine start batteries. Inexpensive insurance, engine always starts--John McClure

Do not disconnect engine start batteries, could cause computer problems--John Mc

[Tom Cherry]

Due to the age of your rig...I don't know how Monaco put in the CHARGING system or pecking ORDER.  ODDS ARE...since Ivan has, supposedly, the same system...he has a better idea.  BUT, is yours working...  DO you have solar.

If I were Boondocking and did not REALLY know exactly HOW my system works or was working...my shade tree fix.

I'd hook up an AUTO Jumper cable between the POSITIVES of EACH BANK.  The SMALL parasitic load from the Chassis is NOT gonna drain the HOUSE for say.. a week or so.  Then, FOLLOW Ivan's advice.  Run your Generator about 3 hours or so. Watch your INVERTER Remote.  It should be at FLOAT Charge.  

NOW...my experience, which at least 50 or so folks confirmed at various times at our GATHERINGS, AND others like me had a METER.  

If you have a RES REFER, you need to run the GENNY at least 2 hours or more, every day to keep things charged...and we KNEW that our BiDirectional (Charges either set...either way) was working.  BUT, if you are on Propane...then you will get a LOT longer.  We also upgraded ALL our puck (overhead lights to LED) to reduce the draw.  We also, ALL OF US, used the Energy Setting on the RES REFER...but if you have a GAS, then TURN OFF the ICEMAKER.  The Icemaker, if you have one, heats up the mold...BIG DRAW... and that will cut into your battery life.

In the FUTURE, you need to run some tests to determine if your Charging SYSTEM, which probably DOES NOT charge the CHASSIS when on 50 Amp or Genny, is working.  THUS, if you have the ORIGINAL system....you will NOT charge the Chassis when the Genny is running. BUT, if you use the SHADE TREE Trick and connect both...BOTH banks will be charged. Just pull the JUMPER

NOW...the CORRECT WAY.  TURN OFF BOTH BANKS.  CONNECT the JUMPER.  THEN turn back on the BANKS.  You should ALWAYS do this when you have to JUMP START.  Let the DISCONENCT switch do the CIRCUT ON... or off.  OTHERWISE, a spike from a vehicle can wreak HAVOC with your system.  IT HAS HAPPENED..and the $$ was not cheap to fix.

 

2 minutes ago, JOHN McCLURE said:

I keep a relatively cheep charger plugged into AC and connected to the engine start batteries. Inexpensive insurance, engine always starts--John McClure

Do not disconnect engine start batteries, could cause computer problems--John Mc

YES... quite true and many do this.  ONE COMMENT.  a CHEAP CHARGER is gonna FRY and kill or shorten the LIFE of your batteries.  You need a THREE STAGE or THREE PHASE Charger.  You need one (Amazon has them) with at least 2 AMPS of output.  MORE ain't needed.  BUT, if you put a 2/6 Amp and 6/12V cheap charger on, even on TWO amps...odds are...you are BOILING OFF the water in the SEALED chassis battery....and you can NOT replenish.  This is an often stated, but BAD recommendation that a CHEAP CHARGER in storage works great and saves you $$...it COSTS YOU....half or less of your normal battery life is shot...

BTW, the OP said BOONDOCKING....so he can't do that in his situation...but YOUR POST about Storage needs CORRECTION and the site rules state that any misinformation will be called out and correct given...  That is how we all learn... so please don't take any offense or take it personally.  We, the STAFF do this many times...

Thanks for the post....sort of repeating...good idea...but needs to be qualified and CHEAP is NOT a good solution...we have had many folks that only got 3 years as they said...MORE is better...and kept it on 6 amp...even those who used the 2 amps....had issues.

 

[jacwjames]

I have a residential refrigerator so when boon docking I usually have to run the generator a couple hours a day any way and when I do the chassis battery gets charged. 

My original chassis/house charging system included a BIRD, Lambert 415 maintainer, and Isolation relay.  It worked good until 2021 and then I noticed the Lambert clicking on/off all the time.  I did the troubleshooting and based on the voltages it said it was working but I was concerned enough to swap the above with a Bluesea MLacr latching relay, at the time the cost was $170.  Now both batteries will charge when ever there is a charge source >>> Engine, Inverter/Charger on shore power or generator. 

I also wanted to be able to monitor my battery voltage easier/better so I installed a Victron BMV712.  Now I can monitor both house and chassis battery voltage and on the house side I see the amp draw, hours remaining, etc.  It has a bluetooth function so I when I'm in or close to the coach I can check batteries.  When I was boon docking out west last year I'd go to sleep with the furnace off.  If I got cold I'd start the furnace using the Bluetooth MicroAir thermostat from under the covers.  I'd take a quick look at the battery voltage and if necessary start the generator all without getting out of bed.  Can't beat that!!!!

Edited July 12 by jacwjames

[Rocketman3]

We full-time in our 2000 Dynasty and usually boondock. Here are a few things I have learned over the years.

The original 80w solar panel going into the original pwm solar charger doesn’t do much.  I became concerned about the Lambert 415 battery maintainer in my rig, so I pulled it out and added a dedicated 100w solar panel to a Victron mppt 75/15 going just to the chassis/generator starting battery. I have been very pleased. Now that battery gets charged to the exact manufacturer recommended voltages (it’s an AGM Starting battery). I can see exactly how much power the solar adds each day. 100w is a bit overkill for that battery but I used a fiberglass arch solar panel (BourgeRV 10BB) - it is flexible and I can walk on it if I need to (so it fit into one of my remaining spots).  The solar cables go down the back air intake to the engine area then to the rear run bay. The solar chargers is mounted in the same spot as the old battery maintainer.

Also, if you really want to Boondock consider adding a real amount of solar. I started with 800w, then added another 420w, and have added another 300w for the House batteries (plus the 100w for the chassis battery).  Solar is easy to add to our rigs and fairly inexpensive if you do it yourself.

The big thing to ask is Why? 
Why does your Chassis battery run down.
Is it:

1. Because you have more loads on it than replenishment.

2. It is getting old and no longer has the capacity it needs.

3. You (and the design team at Monaco - mostly them) have abused the battery and greatly shortened it’s life.

Figure out your answer and Then fix the issue.

Good Luck

PS. To answer your original question (in my rig) turning off the Chassis battery will also prevent the generator from starting (they are both on the same battery), it also turns off the smoke detector and CO detector - which is NOT recommended if living in the rig. So no I don’t want to turn that switch off when boondocking.

[cbr046]

1 hour ago, jacwjames said:

When I was boon docking out west last year I'd go to sleep with the furnace off.  If I got cold I'd start the furnace using the Bluetooth MicroAir thermostat from under the covers.  I'd take a quick look at the battery voltage and if necessary start the generator all without getting out of bed. 

That's just plain cheating!

Yes, I switch the chassis bank off when I camp (boondock).  My chassis batteries have a residual drain that will drop it below starting after a few days (4-5?) or a week.  I've not bothered to see how much drain or exactly what it's feeding (assuming ECM / TCM). 

OTOH, on our Endeavor I can start and run the generator with the chassis bank turned off.  I run off the inverter until the coach bank gets down to 60% or less.  Rather than run the furnace I have an electric hoodie and electric lap blanket.  The only AC draw is the satellite and TV. 

I've had a pair of these installed over the door to monitor coach and chassis batteries.  I did have to make a frame for them out of sheet aluminum (EZ PZ).  Much cheaper than a Victron controller, but sadly if it's the middle of a cold winter's night I'll crawl out to take a look (not gonna happen). 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V8S9PCX   $10 each and will measure voltage or % of charge for FLA, AGM or Lithium

On ours the voltage test switch is right there.  All I did was tap into that switch for both battery banks.  Keep in mind it's not Fluke / hydrometer accurate but gives me a good idea of battery state at a glance. 

My CO / Propane and smoke detectors run off coach batteries so no issue there. 

- bob

 

[Hancoman]

Maybe the title boondocking was a bit much, when we boondock it’s usually just over night at a harvest host.  Couple times a few years back I don’t think my batteries got a full charge before we turned in and the generator and motorhome would not start in the morning. I pay more attention now make sure I have I am charged up before bed ( that’s my batteries I am talking about ) Always check the state of charge when I get up during the night.  Just thought if I turned my chassis batteries off they would always be full in the morning

[Tom Cherry]

7 hours ago, Hancoman said:

Maybe the title boondocking was a bit much, when we boondock it’s usually just over night at a harvest host.  Couple times a few years back I don’t think my batteries got a full charge before we turned in and the generator and motorhome would not start in the morning. I pay more attention now make sure I have I am charged up before bed ( that’s my batteries I am talking about ) Always check the state of charge when I get up during the night.  Just thought if I turned my chassis batteries off they would always be full in the morning

You've got a lot of good information.  Many folks have stated how they do it and their preferences.  I tried to focus on what you have and how I, as well as others...plus how your MH, is configured and such.

NOW....as a CURIOSITY, as I like to provide specific information for the member's MH and not "GENERIC", I pulled your manual. There is NO REFERENCE to ANY DUAL charging.  It was later in the 2000'sRemember that you DO NOT have any CHASSIS charging when you run your Generator.  That is why I recommended the JUMPER Cable as a "cheap solution". Your manual does NOT have, unless a missed it, a reference to a Lambert 415 Maintainer.  However, we have a copy of the manual prints for a 1999 Executive and that shows it on the HIGH CURRENT PLATE print.

If you REALLY wanted to have BiDirectional Charging, your best and cheapest alternative is to install the Blue Seas ML-ACR.  That is solid and easy.

SO..  The Lambert is a "THEIF Maintainer".  They are out of business.  The AMP-L-Start is the replacement.  I look at the $$ value for one alternative vs another.  The Lambert uses the Battery Boost Solenoid. You do not say if you have tested it or if it is functional. Same for the Lambert, or if it is even connected. The cost of replacing the Boost Solenoid and the Lambert (with an AMP-L) is probably in the $150 Range...and now you have 2000 Technology.  The Blue Seas ML-ACR is around $225.  You get a NEW, much heavier duty Boost solenoid and you get BI-Directional Charging. 

When you DRIVE, there is NO CHARGING of your House.  When you are on SHORE (of Genny), you only maintain...with low amperage, the Chassis with the Lambert

PERSONALLY, I WOULD have my Handy Set of Jumper Cables in the MH...  BUT..that is me.

FWIW, You REALLY need to determine if the Lambert is working. 

Something MAY be amiss if your House Bank and the Chassis DIE OVERNIGHT.  Here is the HOW TO or Understand the House Batteries....it is in our files...might be worth reading or such....

My comments and recommendations are based on what we know about your MH and also what many members are doing and such. Hope this helps...

 

[Hancoman]

Thank You Tom all good information. I forgot to say I have switched to the blue seas works great.  

[jacwjames]

1 hour ago, Hancoman said:

Thank You Tom all good information. I forgot to say I have switched to the blue seas works great.  

Hmmm, and your chassis battery is draining.  Must have one heck of a parasitic draw. 

Prior to installing a Bluesea I never had a problem with chassis battery draining but the battery did get week and had to be replace the battery, on my 3rd one.  First time my wife was driving TN to MI and rig wouldn't started, used battery boost to make it to MI.  The battery was 10 years old, changed the battery with off brand, only one I could find where we were.  It only lasted 2 years.  Replaced with a Duracell from Battery Plus, lasted 10 years.  Replaced it last years, 9 years since last one.  I sensed the battery was getting weak so I replaced with battery from Autozone, hope it lasts. 

[RVerBob]

I'm not good at this so here it goes, shout out to Tom Cherry. I have know idea how you find the time to fix all of us out here.

I have nothing wrong with my coach at this moment but I follow to the best of my comprehension every word you post.

I want to let you and all that help us new RVers how much I appreciate your wisdom and knowledge.

I have a 2005 Holiday Rambler Imperial, I hope I can call myself a proud Monacoer

[Tom Cherry]

2 hours ago, RVerBob said:

I'm not good at this so here it goes, shout out to Tom Cherry. I have know idea how you find the time to fix all of us out here.

I have nothing wrong with my coach at this moment but I follow to the best of my comprehension every word you post.

I want to let you and all that help us new RVers how much I appreciate your wisdom and knowledge.

I have a 2005 Holiday Rambler Imperial, I hope I can call myself a proud Monacoer

Many kinds words…more than I deserve.  We have a great bunch.  Many old timers.  Many newbies, in post count only….that contribute.  Yes, i get a lot of personal satisfaction from helping…but also from “helping a person understand “ so they learn what to do next time…so they will not need continual coaching.

Sort of “Teach a person how to fish”.

Appreciate your comments….that’s what makes it so rewarding….

[Jetjockey]

For maintaing chassis and house batteries xantrex makes an echo charger. It easy to install and bounces charge between both sets of batteries to keep them fully charged. I have a victron shunt that measures and indicates the state of charge.. . One does have to have to be on shore power or generator to do so.. 

 

coaches are like aircraft…if they aren’t broke you aren’t looking hard enough.

 

Edited July 14 by Jetjockey