Overheating

[saflyer]

Coming across the Oklahoma Panhandle and NE New Mexico yesterday the local temperature was 101°-103°. Using my ScanD gauge the coolant temp ran about 213-215° on level ground at 65 mph but since we were gradually increasing elevation all along that route I got temps above 220° and even 227° and on occasional 229° triggering the check engine light. I slowed down to 55 and even 50 mph to bring the temps down.

This morning I tried to check the coolant level but it was difficult to see through the translucent plastic. I then tried to remove the cap on the surge tank to look in it  but couldn’t get the cap off. Now it’s not clear if I have the cap secure again. Is there a trick to the cap?

I plan to get some foam cleaner for the radiator. There are two heat exchangers. Am I correct one is for the engine and one the transmission. In the attached picture which is for the engine, the one on top or bottom?

2005 HR Ambassador       
Cummins ISC 330

[bobdinsmore]

You have to push down really hard while opening the radiator cap. I tried cleaning up mine when I finally got it off and spraying with Dry Silicone but that really dod work so I'll buy a new cap. I had to use channel-lock pliers while pushing down on the cap.

One is the radiator and the other is the Charge Air Cooling unit (CAC) for the turbo. I think the CAC is the upper one but you can tell by looking for a drain spigot which is for the radiator.

[Barry W]

The top is Charge Air Cooler

The bottom is radiator.

 

[saflyer]

6 minutes ago, Barry W said:

The top is Charge Air Cooler

The bottom is radiator.

 

Thanks. Is there a foam cleaner to spray on it or do I just use a hise from the back side?

[cbr046]

For the reservoir I take a strong flashlight and shine through the plastic, and it must be done in the dark.

I've used Simple Green, Super Clean (purple bottle) on the inside, outside, applied with a bug sprayer then spraying a hose from the inside and trying to push junk through from the outside.  In the end I've only gotten marginal results.  It's very difficult spraying between the fan blades. 

I would pull the radiator but #1) haven't figured out how the outside plastic shroud is attached and #2) it's a huge job as I've got an oil cooler on the outside of the radiator to deal with.  Cleaning the CAC would be needed also. 

If you use a chemical be sure it won't eat aluminum.

If you use a hose be sure not to use so much pressure it bends the fins (very bad).  Definitely NOT a pressure washer!

Keep us posted . . . I need a solution too. 

- bob

Edited July 15 by cbr046

[Rikadoo]

FYI, though my 2003 radiator sprung a leak that couldnt be repaired, i tried cleaning mine a couple times cause of high temps. Once i got it on the ground i used a flashlight  on one side while looking thru the other. There was very little light shining thru. 

[Benjamin]

top is the charge air cooler, and bottom is the radiator.  I like to use air and water to clean them, first a blow gun with compressed air, then rinse with a strong garden hose nozzle, then soak with detergent, then rinse, then more air.  Repeat until you can see through it and tell it's not plugged, or until you don't get any more debris out.  It helps that they're stacked instead of one in front of the other.  You'll want to at least apply detergent from the other side of the radiator, but you might not need to blow it out from that side.

[saflyer]

56 minutes ago, cbr046 said:

For the reservoir I take a strong flashlight and shine through the plastic, and it must be done in the dark.

I've used Simple Green, Super Clean (purple bottle) on the inside, outside, applied with a bug sprayer then spraying a hose from the inside and trying to push junk through from the outside.  In the end I've only gotten marginal results.  It's very difficult spraying between the fan blades. 

I would pull the radiator but #1) haven't figured out how the outside plastic shroud is attached and #2) it's a huge job as I've got an oil cooler on the outside of the radiator to deal with.  Cleaning the CAC would be needed also. 

If you use a chemical be sure it won't eat aluminum.

If you use a hose be sure not to use so much pressure it bends the fins (very bad).  Definitely NOT a pressure washer!

Keep us posted . . . I need a solution too. 

- bob

Good point about cleaner that’s safe for aluminum. Simple Green is corrosive to aluminum so they make Extreme Simple Green which is OK for aluminum. It’s blue, however so why don’t they call it “Simple Blue”?

[Barry W]

Knowing what I learned when replacing my radiator (Diplomat 40pdq, rear radiator), I would pull CAC and Radiator to clean.

Will be easier to clean and can be sure it is cleaned well.

https://www.monacoers.org/topic/6139-radiator-replacement/#comment-59987

[Rikadoo]

I will add that the main reason MY radiator was plugged was in part due to the road draft tube, in that the oil “moisture” was thrown on the core of the radiator then the road dirt stuck to it making it next to not able to clean out, it was imbeded in layers. If i was to try cleaning it again i would spray soming that breaks grease down like Dawn detergent from the back side let it soak in, rinse an repeat. Remembering these fans push air not pull. One last thing, the side of the radiator I was working on was the clean side, that side looked very clean, the other is what was stopping the circulation.

[Paul J A]

Dawn works great. At night, shine a light from the engine side out, and you will see the blockage, dirt, that is remaining to be cleaned out.

[Rodger]

3 hours ago, Rikadoo said:

I will add that the main reason MY radiator was plugged was in part due to the road draft tube, in that the oil “moisture” was thrown on the core of the radiator then the road dirt stuck to it making it next to not able to clean out, it was imbeded in layers. If i was to try cleaning it again i would spray soming that breaks grease down like Dawn detergent from the back side let it soak in, rinse an repeat. Remembering these fans push air not pull. One last thing, the side of the radiator I was working on was the clean side, that side looked very clean, the other is what was stopping the circulation.

I had the exact thing with mine. I took brake cleaner and softened and washed it down as best I could from the top of the engine and then just washed using a pressure washer from inside then back to outside several times and opened mine up. Just got back from a trip up East coast and never saw more than 185 which is back to normal. 

Edited July 16 by Rodger

[Jim McGarvie]

5 hours ago, Rikadoo said:

I will add that the main reason MY radiator was plugged was in part due to the road draft tube, in that the oil “moisture” was thrown on the core of the radiator then the road dirt stuck to it making it next to not able to clean out, it was imbeded in layers. If i was to try cleaning it again i would spray soming that breaks grease down like Dawn detergent from the back side let it soak in, rinse an repeat. Remembering these fans push air not pull. One last thing, the side of the radiator I was working on was the clean side, that side looked very clean, the other is what was stopping the circulation.

That is the same cause as my radiator problem. I attempted to clean it a few times with Extreme Simple Green with a smidgen of Dawn, but it was not very successful. Finally took it to my local mechanic who used three gallons of Purple Power Degreaser. It seems to have helped but I haven't had a chance to give it a good test.

[frankogrly]

If you can find someone with an old fashion steam cleaner that works very well.

Frank O

01 Endeavor

[scottknight]

Last year i made a summer run into Texas family gathering..... hot. I decided to it was long past due to change radiator hoses, thermostat, radiator cap, OAT coolant. Not sure what benefited me the most but i also looked at radiator cap formula and chose 7#. In addition, I used a HVAC foam spray can cleaner that is friendly to aluminum, and it worked really well. I have the rear radiator on an 05 - 8.3. The origional no clutch fan blade . I intend to use the HVAC cleaner again next time when needed. I could get in-between the fan blades inside and it looked close to new.

 

 

For every 1lb of pressure or (PSI) a cap can hold is equal to about 2.5Degrees F.

So say you go and buy a 15psi radiator cap.

Waters' boiling point at Sea Level is 212 F.

So here is the formula where 2.5 = 1psi cap
x is the amount of psi the cap can hold.

so you take 2.5 x 15lb = 37.5

take that number (37.5) plus the boiling point of water (212) = 249.5 Deg F.

That number is where your ethylene-glycol fluid will begin to boil with the 15psi cap.

*This is at Sea Level*

      +++++++++  just examples of a cleaner and a cap formula ++++++++

 

 

 

 

[dandick66]

19 hours ago, scottknight said:

Last year i made a summer run into Texas family gathering..... hot. I decided to it was long past due to change radiator hoses, thermostat, radiator cap, OAT coolant. Not sure what benefited me the most but i also looked at radiator cap formula and chose 7#. In addition, I used a HVAC foam spray can cleaner that is friendly to aluminum, and it worked really well. I have the rear radiator on an 05 - 8.3. The origional no clutch fan blade . I intend to use the HVAC cleaner again next time when needed. I could get in-between the fan blades inside and it looked close to new.

 

 

For every 1lb of pressure or (PSI) a cap can hold is equal to about 2.5Degrees F.

So say you go and buy a 15psi radiator cap.

Waters' boiling point at Sea Level is 212 F.

So here is the formula where 2.5 = 1psi cap
x is the amount of psi the cap can hold.

so you take 2.5 x 15lb = 37.5

take that number (37.5) plus the boiling point of water (212) = 249.5 Deg F.

That number is where your ethylene-glycol fluid will begin to boil with the 15psi cap.

*This is at Sea Level*

      +++++++++  just examples of a cleaner and a cap formula ++++++++

 

 

 

 

I watched a video made by Valvoline regarding boiling points.  They had pure water start to boil at 208 and when they added 50/50 mix of anti freeze the boiling point changed to 226.   Based on this data, your boiling point calculated above should be around 268 F.  It’s nice to know you have over 50 degrees of “wiggle room” between pure water’s boiling point and the pressurized, 50/50 coolant mix boiling point.  

[RoadTripper2084]

2 hours ago, dandick66 said:

I watched a video made by Valvoline regarding boiling points.  They had pure water start to boil at 208 and when they added 50/50 mix of anti freeze the boiling point changed to 226.   Based on this data, your boiling point calculated above should be around 268 F.  It’s nice to know you have over 50 degrees of “wiggle room” between pure water’s boiling point and the pressurized, 50/50 coolant mix boiling point.  

Assuming your expansion tank cap seal is good, and your radiator pressure cap is good. If either of those fails to seal properly you can run into trouble at much lower temps, I'm assuming.

 

[scottknight]

yah can always be something.... The coach operated mostly in Upper Oregon and Northwest most of its life with annual trips southwest. Living in the Bullhead City area now we are at the bottom of the heat bowl and hot and uphill all directions. I had to pay more attention to lower gears 5th and 4th I think my diesel driving has gotten much better as heat has become real. I volunteered 3rd election cycles now to work ebooks at the poles; primary July 30th. Found August a good time to start some trips because some kids are already going back to school freeing up places like Grand Canyon type areas and other points of interest. My wife and me travel with two dogs .

[dl_racing427]

On 7/17/2024 at 11:38 AM, scottknight said:

yah can always be something.... The coach operated mostly in Upper Oregon and Northwest most of its life with annual trips southwest. Living in the Bullhead City area now we are at the bottom of the heat bowl and hot and uphill all directions. I had to pay more attention to lower gears 5th and 4th I think my diesel driving has gotten much better as heat has become real. I volunteered 3rd election cycles now to work ebooks at the poles; primary July 30th. Found August a good time to start some trips because some kids are already going back to school freeing up places like Grand Canyon type areas and other points of interest. My wife and me travel with two dogs .

Wow, antigravity doggies.  LOL