Genny First Level Fault code 2

[Ted Carbonaro]

HDKAK spec J, 8000W,

After only 34 hours of operation since oil and filter change, genny won’t stay running. 2 blinks fault code. Oil was about 3/4 way up on the xxxx area of dip stick. It’s now right at the full mark and still won’t stay running. It seems to be very finicky regarding the oil level recently. I’m now planning to change oil and filter again tomorrow. 
Anyone else experience this? 

[Tom Cherry]

 

1 hour ago, Ted Carbonaro said:

HDKAK spec J, 8000W,

After only 34 hours of operation since oil and filter change, genny won’t stay running. 2 blinks fault code. Oil was about 3/4 way up on the xxxx area of dip stick. It’s now right at the full mark and still won’t stay running. It seems to be very finicky regarding the oil level recently. I’m now planning to change oil and filter again tomorrow. 
Anyone else experience this? 

Don’t have the codes committed to memory. BUT…googled…. Mine shut down when the level was just below the crosshatch area.  Added about a quart.  You might want to call Onan.  Many of the oil level sensors have a low as well as a high limit.  So, more is NOT better.  I fixed a neighbor’s Generac because he overfilled the oil.  Don’t know if the Onan has the same on.  Get the code.  Call Onan….good support or was.

I’d drop it down to below 1/2 of the crosshatch area.

 

[Ivan K]

There is no oil level sensor, only a pressure sensor. Could be a number of reasons for the fault. Bad sensor or connection is possible. Can be tested with a pressure gauge on a T-fitting to the sensor. Wrong oil viscosity for temperature an other. If the oil foams due do high level or pump sucks air could be an other. Pump/pickup problem or worn bearings would be mechanical issues, hopefully NOT the case. Fuel leak through pump seals into the oil would be a problem if you smell diesel from the dipstick and would drop viscosity big time.

Edited July 19 by Ivan K

[Ted Carbonaro]

I’ll start by calling Onan tomorrow. I wondered if I could have a faulty oil filter or something in the pickup. Although it ran fine for 35 hours since oil & filter change. 

[Tom Cherry]

13 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

There is no oil level sensor, only a pressure sensor. Could be a number of reasons for the fault. Bad sensor or connection is possible. Can be tested with a pressure gauge on a T-fitting to the sensor. Wrong oil viscosity for temperature an other. If the oil foams due do high level or pump sucks air could be an other. Pump/pickup problem or worn bearings would be mechanical issues, hopefully the case. Fuel leak through pump seals into the oil would be a problem if you smell diesel from the dipstick and would drop viscosity big time.

Thanks for sharing.  The low or high instruction baffled me.  Mine was LOW.  Error as the tech let the oil drain way too long.  Then put back in the “plate amount”.  I had supplied them per the manual.  So, it drained more.  Then it shuts down.  Low oil.  Get it to mid range.  Never has missed a lick.  That is why I used the “sensor level” example.  Your call to Onan would be great.  Share it with us…

[RVerBob]

Just a thought, some engines have a coolant level sensor that will not allow engine to run.

Not sure about Onan GenSet

[Tom Cherry]

11 minutes ago, RVerBob said:

Just a thought, some engines have a coolant level sensor that will not allow engine to run.

Not sure about Onan GenSet

Same deal.  Not the ONAN expert, but when they suggest lowering or raising the level, that WOULD SEEM to suggest that there is a level sensor.  MAYBE there are TWO.  Ivan's knowledge sounds reasonable...but I can't square it with the TRY THIS...and I do KNOW that many newer engines...again...not all engines are the same. do have a "operating range".  

NOW, to further that logic...I will expound on MY Onan issue.  The Genny DID start and RUN OK after I picked it up.  But, after driving the MH with the Genny ON for maybe 50 miles....NO GENNY. OPPS..  Oil level was low and then, after talking to the tech, he did the engine oil change, tranny service and Genny service (I got a Freebie Coolant change that they thought I wanted in the Genny.,.. but didn't order so they knocked that off)....and fuel filter and genny oil change.

He let all the fluids drain.  THEN started to replenish.  The Tranny drained too much.  The 3 or 4 qt of oil (memory...whatever the manual said...that is what he had as I supplied the parts) of Oil were NOT enough the the genny due to the extended drain time.  

SO, I added it the old fashioned way.  about 4 - 6 OZ at a time.  The Genny would restart...and then quit.  

Onan can sort this out.  BUT, I'd try the drain (don't know if you can use a Inboard boat engine drill pump to pump it out through the dip stick?) the level a little lower.

Once I got it to mid cross hatch, it has NEVER  stopped once...maybe 150 hours...

 

[Ivan K]

I don't mean to imply that no generator has an oil level switch but HDKAK (A-K) does not show it in parts list, therefore I mentioned possible low pressure causes.

[Ted Carbonaro]

I have over filled before and had to syphon off. Not fun but it has worked before. Thats why I’m thinking the issue is connected to the oil level. In this instance, it wouldn’t run with the level at 3/4 on cross hatch. It wouldn’t run with it over filled and it won’t run now with it right at the full mark. 

I spoke to Onan and they said it’s either; low oil, a bad oil pressure switch, a bad connection to the switch or bad harness.  Hence I’m on my way chasing down a new switch. I’ll post the results after I change the switch. 

[Keith H.]

A clogged fuel filter caused this reaction on my coach when we first got it. We would drive for a while and it would die on me. It became more often and as we pull Ed into a mechanics garage it died and would not come back to life

[Ted Carbonaro]

So I picked up the new oil pressure switch yesterday and expected to pop off the genny top cover plate today and replace the old switch and be on my way. What a surprise I got when I removed the top cover and found the switch buried deep on the passenger side on the block. There is a heat/cooling shroud covering the entire side of the block leaving barely enough room to get my hand and arm to reach the switch. NO room for tools to operate in this very limited space. It would appear that a major disassembly job is required to replace this switch. I called Onan/Cummins tech and got torques spec and thread sealer info only. No step by step directions on accessing for replacement. 
Has anyone done this job before?

[Ted Carbonaro]

So I have an appointment at Cummins on Monday morning to have their generator tech troubleshoot. 
As previously stated I tried to run genny and it wouldn’t stay running. (2 blinks; low oil pressure code) There was only 34 hours on new oil and filter.
I topped off oil to full mark (it was 3/4 full on hash marks) and it still wouldn’t stay running. Tried multiple times over two week period, no change. I decided to try another oil and filter change. First start produced the same results. Shut down and 2 blink. I tried again and this time it stayed running. So I let it run for about an hour. Didn’t think to try to restart right then. Coach sat for four days and I went to start; same old result. (1 hour on fresh oil & filter) Shut down, 2 blinks. I checked the oil and it was again 3/4 full on hash marks. I added 6 oz oil and it stayed running. And now next day with oil at full mark, it won’t stay running again. I’m thinking faulty oil pressure switch??? I’m afraid a trip to Cummins is in order. 

[Frank McElroy]

On 8/2/2024 at 6:04 PM, Ted Carbonaro said:

So I have an appointment at Cummins on Monday morning to have their generator tech troubleshoot. 
As previously stated I tried to run genny and it wouldn’t stay running. (2 blinks; low oil pressure code) There was only 34 hours on new oil and filter.
I topped off oil to full mark (it was 3/4 full on hash marks) and it still wouldn’t stay running. Tried multiple times over two week period, no change. I decided to try another oil and filter change. First start produced the same results. Shut down and 2 blink. I tried again and this time it stayed running. So I let it run for about an hour. Didn’t think to try to restart right then. Coach sat for four days and I went to start; same old result. (1 hour on fresh oil & filter) Shut down, 2 blinks. I checked the oil and it was again 3/4 full on hash marks. I added 6 oz oil and it stayed running. And now next day with oil at full mark, it won’t stay running again. I’m thinking faulty oil pressure switch??? I’m afraid a trip to Cummins is in order. 

Yep, sure sounds like a faulty oil pressure switch or a oil pressure switch wiring/connection issue.

[jacwjames]

The oil pressure switch is ~$50     185-5492 Factory Replacement Oil Pressure Switch

Even if your generator is on a slide which provides better access the labor cost to replace will be high.  Just to get to the engine is quite a bit of work. 

I did a couple searches on how to check oil pressure and some simply say to add a T where the sensor is and add a pressure gauge there.  If that's the case you'd be better off just replacing the sender and see if it runs.  If it does the sender was your problem.  If not then I'd go the oil pressure check but if you do have low pressure it could be a much bigger problem. 

Do you still have the oil filter your replaced, might pay to cut it open and see if there are any signs of metal.