Greg Coffey Posted July 19 Share Posted July 19 I will start from the beginning. I had issues with my aqua hot so I brought it to the dealer to fix, however before taking it to the dealer, I had a Modular Smartwheel Master Controller ordered that I recieved and put on in place of the old one.The older one had burning on the j12 plug and also on the harness. I purchased the harness and replaced the modular and tried it. When I turn the key on I got a chattering in the steering column. I went into the where the modular is and it was chattering in the fuse box as well. I pulled the j12, still chattering. I played with the smartwheel, dimmed my lights and it stopped. I proceeded to the shop to get my aquahot fixed. I got a call from the tech saying he had a chattering in the smartwheel when he went to work on the unit. He pulled the smartwheel fuse and carried on. He fixed the aquahot. he replaced: AH-VAC HI LIM 215 AH- VAC HI LIM 215W WB- BEARING KIT WB BURNER CNTRL BOX TANK TEMP. SENSOR I picked the motorhome, I have no aladdin, no slides, no water pump. I am not sure where to start. I am thinking of putting the old smartwheel controller back on to see if I have the chattering,,, need some guidance please,,, Note: I am electrically ignorant,, but trying to learn,,,, Thank you Greg Coffey 2005 Monaco Dynasty Signature IV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vito.a Posted July 19 Share Posted July 19 I doubt the Aqua Hot has anything to do with it, but anything's possible. First review the wire diagrams to see what's on the Smart Wheel circuit. Then start by removing the J12 plug and maybe the Smart Wheel Master controller. Then reinsert the fuse and see if your other systems power on. Is your Dynasty model a Bishop, Platinum, or Diamond IV? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Coffey Posted July 19 Author Share Posted July 19 I replaced the old smartwheel modular, got rid of the chattering . I can live with no lights for night driving. I got everything working. I had power in my coach but nothing on the alladdin, water pump or slides. I accidentally hit the shut0ff switch at the door and another set of lights came on. My aladdin started working and my water pump as well as my slides. The shut0ff switch at the door was partially connected only. Its was my problem. Thanks to all. Greg Coffey Vito, Thanks for responding. Its a Diamond IV. Regards,\ Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96 EVO Posted July 19 Share Posted July 19 Ha.... Yeah the battery cut-off switch either has, or will, get every owner at some point! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted July 19 Share Posted July 19 2 hours ago, Greg Coffey said: I replaced the old smartwheel modular, got rid of the chattering . I can live with no lights for night driving. I got everything working. I had power in my coach but nothing on the alladdin, water pump or slides. I accidentally hit the shut0ff switch at the door and another set of lights came on. My aladdin started working and my water pump as well as my slides. The shut0ff switch at the door was partially connected only. Its was my problem. Thanks to all. Greg Coffey Vito, Thanks for responding. Its a Diamond IV. Regards,\ Greg NAPA 781144 is your salvation. HERE's the DEAL. The Momentary Contact switch up front controls TWO Solenoids...YES, the DYNASTY has TWO Salesman's Solenoids in the REAR run bay. Look on page 369 of your manual. You will see the BIG BOY Solenoid in the center. Then, to the RIGHT are the TWO Domestic Solenoids... Open you Manual to the Wiring. The first print details them. NOW, if your eyes are not as good as they used to be. The BOTTOM one feeds the Front Run Run Domestic Fuse Block and the Inverter. The TOP one feeds the Domestic Bedroom Fuse Panel...all you HOUSE fuses. MOST of us with ONE bypass that one. We remove the two small wires from the coil contacts and use the NAPA Jumper across the Studs. If YOU HAVE (and it varies as there were TWO TOALLY different 2005 Dynasty...) the Intellitec Lighted Switch (lights and fans and such) system or the Multiplex.. THEN LEAVE THEM ALONE. BUT, if you do NOT have that and have conventional systems...then you COULD Bypass BOTH of them. They are going to FAIL...no IF...but WHEN. I'd probably BYPASS each. That way bumping will be eliminated. Proper method. BATTERY SWITCHS OFF. Them attach a Jumper to each of the STUDS... BUT, if that is NOT what you want to do. BUY ONE of the Jumpers. When the Solenoid FAILS....you are up feces creek sans paddle. YOU CAN then bypass the one that is gone... Your CALL. I;s say that 90% of the experienced members have bypassed...that is NOT from a survey...just 15 years of posting and then moderating for 13. Good Luck. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Coffey Posted July 20 Author Share Posted July 20 Thank you Tom, Great explanation,, much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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