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entry door doesn't close tight


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I've tried searching for info on this but all I can find is latch actuating rod adjustment.  My problem is that the door won't close tight enough.  I've tried moving the striker posts in as far as they will go, but that didn't help.  Once the door is fully closed/latched, you can still push the door in tighter.  I've made sure that both upper and lower latches are both clicking in to both clicks.  The door closes in to both clicks very easily without having to slam it.  There is a very noticeable air leak while driving.  I can hear it from the drivers seat.  It sounds like there's a window open.  My coach is a 2007 HR endeavor.  Thanks in advance for whatever help you can provide.

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2 minutes ago, Doug and Nicki said:

There is a bladder seal that inflates when the door is closed and the rv is running. Is this seal not inflating?

Nope….or at least the Manual says NOTHING about an air seal.  I pulled the manual.

That was my first thought.  BUT if he can look behind the door frame and find a 1/4” rubber line going to a MAC Valve and a Regulator…if he has that….yes.  An air seal.  No air line,…none there…which would be consistent with the manual. The Dynasty and up….as well as the Camelot have them. There is a complete page in mine, and your Dynasty discussing…none in the 2007 HR Endeavor manual…but strange things have happend.

Maybe a Diplomat owner can chime in.  DIP and Endeavor are the same.

read this.  It discusses ans has info on the air seals….who knows….just only the manual to use as Gospel….

 

 

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1 hour ago, Doug Hoegh said:

My 06 Diplomat does not have an air (bladder) seal.  Doubt the posters does.

Correct - My endeavor does not have an air bladder type door seal.  Any other suggestions?

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1 hour ago, snoracer said:

Correct - My endeavor does not have an air bladder type door seal.  Any other suggestions?

That was what I suspected after downloading and reading your manual.  Have you looked at the striker plate?  Is the door flush on the outside compared to the frame?

I’d look carefully at the gaskets.  Some had dual as in on frame and on door.  The top one(s) are vulnerable if someone “tweaked” the scissor bar…as i bending it up or down.  It will abrade and destroy the seals..don’t ask how i know.

Read the topic on the air seal I posted.  Towards the end, there is a post on the best gasket “grease/preserver” know to “gearheads”.  That will cut down on squeaks…

BUT a rushing sound. NOW….again, from experience.  I had an “Air Noise” on the driver’s side.  It was the front joint of the driver’s side window frame. The black RTV (Windshield sealer) had popped out of mitered corner.  Put blue tape over ot.  BINGO…no noise.

You MIGHT want to try a really ODD BALL fix.  Get s friend to tape the door to the frame while you and wife are inside.  USE BLUE PAPER PAINTER’S TAPE…1 - 2” wide.

DRIVE it.  Still got a noise….it AIN’T in door.  You can open the door easily when you end your test drive.  NOW, if it does GO AWAY…. Repeat test.  Seal off the right vertical seam (Buddy helps).  Drive and test.  Peel away one strip (left and right seams and top and bottom.  Peel ONE OFF….Drive and TEST.  You’ll home in on where it is…

Good Luck

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