thomasgibbens Posted August 12 Share Posted August 12 Lately my front air compressor for our Valid leveling runs for over 30 minutes before shutting off after we have leveled the motorhome with air only. In the past it would shut down within a few minutes occasionally. Does this indicate a leak in the system or something else? I can start the motorhome and put it in the travel mode and then relevel it and that lasts about a day while parked but then starts the lengthy run time again. And recommendations are welcome. Tom Gibbens ’15 Dynasty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnC3 Posted August 12 Share Posted August 12 I have a valid 320c (if I remember correctly) It has about 1.5 gallon ping tank that it can bring from 0 to 115psi in about 2 minutes. From 85 to 115 is about 30 seconds. Valid makes lots of pumps so YMMV. I would think that you either have a leak or your pump needs some attention. If you don't have a leak your pump output has dropped by 90%. Your pump COULD be shutting down due to overheating. Not sure what brand pump they put in for 2015. You may have to get underneath and use a soapy water spray to eliminate leaks. Is the front air Guage low (<90psi) when the pump comes on? In 2008 I had a separate small tank for the aux pump to fill. That tank would allow the coach to level several times before needing to be pumped back up ( unless the bags were deflating in which case it might only adjust once. The system was segmented to keep air from coming out of the airbags unless you pressed the dump valves. If you don't find leaks, you might try to either rebuild the pump or replace it with a heavy duty or constant duty pump from viaair. They make good stuff. I might order an appropriate replacement from Amazon, then compare the output of the old pump (you can find specs online from the part number on the pump. If the new pump pumps 3-10 times more air the the one one your coach (and you get a via air model that had a similar output) then swap them out. Otherwise, you need to find the leak in your air system. Hope this helps at least a little. I found it easier once I got underneath and saw how it was setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solution Tom Cherry Posted August 12 Solution Share Posted August 12 1 hour ago, thomasgibbens said: Lately my front air compressor for our Valid leveling runs for over 30 minutes before shutting off after we have leveled the motorhome with air only. In the past it would shut down within a few minutes occasionally. Does this indicate a leak in the system or something else? I can start the motorhome and put it in the travel mode and then relevel it and that lasts about a day while parked but then starts the lengthy run time again. And recommendations are welcome. Tom Gibbens ’15 Dynasty Turn off the AUTO LEVEL. Many of us never use it. I personally lower the MH...then level mine manually to get the step closer to the ground. THEN...I do NOT LEAVE IT in AUTO. The compressor comes on at night and is a distraction. Many other seasoned or experienced members do the same. We don't like the constant tweaking and the "OMG...somebody is walking or the wind is blowing". Now that is an exaggeration. BUT...here is the REAL TEST. Level however you want to... Manual or AUTO. Do NOT LEAVE IT IN AUTO. Turn OFF the Valid unit. THEN wait a few days. My rig and many others, since day one (I and others bought them new) will experience a LOW AIR...as in the main tanks will leak. In the winter when the temps at night are in the 40's...It might take 3 days for the tanks to drain. AS IN...when I start, there is ZERO air pressure...and then the compressor and governor take over. BUT, in the summer when the temps are above 90...it will go for almost a week. BUT...the MH NEVER SAGS OR CHANGES. The Leveling System is NOT leaking. So, as long as a corner doesn't sag... What's the POINT. NOW.. I do have my air system "LEAKED TESTED" every few years by the OTR shop that does the engine and chassis maintenance. I DO watch the gauges when I drive....and I have a DIgital display. I KNOW that my governor will keep the pressures in the 105 - 110 range...and it (Compressor) cycles on occassionally. I can drive hours without using the brake and the tanks stay exactly at the same pressure. YES...you have a LEAK. Where....god only knows and it will take a LOT of testing to find it. BUT, as long as the MH doesn't sag or such and you have the MAIN system tested...I and OTHERS see no benefit...other than an annoyance, to the AUX compressor. That's my thoughts and I'm channeling a lot of members of the same mindset. NOW...OTHERS SWEAR BY IT...and if it is running that much... YES, you have a leak...but the MAIN TEST....DOES THE MH SAG? Are my Brake Pressures and the MAIN air system OK..? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomasgibbens Posted August 12 Author Share Posted August 12 I have turned the leveling OFF and will see how it does. I will also get some soapy water and spray on the fittings to see if I have an obvious leak in the compartment with the auxiliary compressor. Thanks. Tom Gibbens ’15 Dynasty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96 EVO Posted August 12 Share Posted August 12 30 min run times will burn that little compressor out quickly. They aren't designed for that kind of duty cycle. Like a previous poster mentioned, it usually only takes 30-45 seconds for them to top up the leveling tank from 90- 120psi. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amphi_sc Posted August 13 Share Posted August 13 As I recall, unlike the HWH system, turning off the Valid system does not stop the compressor. That only stops the system from keeping the coach level as bags change inflation levels. The compressor is on a separate fuse in the front run box. Could be the check valve is leaking past the pump, and also the pump may be getting tired. I'd check for air leaks between the pump and ping tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96 EVO Posted August 13 Share Posted August 13 40 minutes ago, amphi_sc said: As I recall, unlike the HWH system, turning off the Valid system does not stop the compressor. That only stops the system from keeping the coach level as bags change inflation levels. The compressor is on a separate fuse in the front run box. Could be the check valve is leaking past the pump, and also the pump may be getting tired. I'd check for air leaks between the pump and ping tank. That was my initial thought as well, but he doesn't mention the compressor running frequently. Just runs for a long time when it does run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Dinwiddie Posted August 13 Share Posted August 13 Not really on subjest but does anyone been able to download a operators manual for the Valid system. I've done a lot of research and keep coming up with the hyd. system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdshill123 Posted August 13 Share Posted August 13 Replace the check valve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomasgibbens Posted August 14 Author Share Posted August 14 As an update to my original post, I sprayed the fittings around the compressor and found no leaks I do turn off the system and after about 24 hours, the coach was out of level (the bathroom door closes by itself), so apparently when you turn off the Valid leveling it does prevent the compressor from running. I will see if I can find a new check valve and replace it. Here lately, the compressor will turn on about twice a day and runs excessively when it does. As the temperature cools overnight it seems like the compressor runs more often I have turned the leveling OFF and will see how it does. I will also get some soapy water and spray on the fittings to see if I have an obvious leak in the compartment with the auxiliary compressor. Thanks. Tom Gibbens ’15 Dynasty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill R Posted August 14 Share Posted August 14 As others have mentioned, could very well be your compressor is just gone. Or have you considered the pressure switch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amphi_sc Posted August 15 Share Posted August 15 If I turn off my Valid system at the key pad and then bleed air from the tanks via one of the drain valves by the engine, the compressor still comes on. I have to pull the circuit breaker in the front run box to stop the compressor from coming on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank McElroy Posted August 15 Share Posted August 15 1 hour ago, amphi_sc said: If I turn off my Valid system at the key pad and then bleed air from the tanks via one of the drain valves by the engine, the compressor still comes on. I have to pull the circuit breaker in the front run box to stop the compressor from coming on. Yes, that is completely normal. The valid system will not turn off the aux air compressor. That compressor turns on when the pressure sensor detects low tank pressure and yes, the only way to shut it off is to pull the circuit breaker. My coach stays level for months and my aux air compressor circuit breaker has been removed for well over ten years. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grizzly Posted August 15 Share Posted August 15 When mine did that it was because the compressor was worn out inside. I took it apart and it was completely worn to the point that I had to buy a new one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96 EVO Posted August 15 Share Posted August 15 5 minutes ago, grizzly said: When mine did that it was because the compressor was worn out inside. I took it apart and it was completely worn to the point that I had to buy a new one. Good chance that's Tom's issue as well! 30min to top up about a 1.5gal air tank is well.......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted August 15 Share Posted August 15 OK... Frank and I talked and I had drained my tanks recently and also leveled yesterday. Frank is CORRECT (OMG?), the AUX pump is HOT WIRED or will always come on.. It has a 90 - 120 PSI pressure switch. You can jumper it, as I did, and test anytime, NOW...here is how I do my leveling and my experience and it is close to what Frank, I think, does. You can level in the AUTO or MANUAL modes. I prefer Manual as I dump and then raise. I did that yesterday. TYPICALLY, I would do it when I park....but yesterday, I was outside verifying that the camper next to me had access and I was NOT encroaching on his site. SO, I DUMPED and then leveled. The AUX Compressor did come ON. That meant that the VALID's AIR SYSTEM was below 90 PSI. It went off and I finished up my leveling. After Frank and I texted this morning, I turned off the VALID...as in SHUT IT DOWN. Then I cracked open the Drain Valve and the compressor started. OK....the switch works. NOW....in my system, I leave the VALID OFF after leveling. It WILL turn on again if I turn the key on.... or obviously start. BUT, OFF, there is NO AUTO TWEAKING or fritzing with the level control. SO, my PUMP does NOT COME ON... WHY.... My Valid Leveling system has no leaks. I have NEVER seen the corners or a slide or front or whatever DROOP. Now, my main tanks will go to zero in several days....6 or so in the summer....quicker in the cold. There is probably a fitting or two that when if is cold, there is a slight leak. It is common and they rework or fix the fitting. My DRIVING PSI is fine and I watch is as I drive. NO BRAKES....it stays a constant number... SO... There MUST be a leak somewhere. Maybe the CHECK Valve... BUT, mine only runs 2 - 3 minutes...if that long. Hope this helps and also explains things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malewis11 Posted August 16 Share Posted August 16 On 8/13/2024 at 1:46 PM, Jim Dinwiddie said: Not really on subjest but does anyone been able to download an operators manual for the Valid system. I've done a lot of research and keep coming up with the hyd. system. Here is the one that matches my coach. Valid Trueline Leveling ERH Service Manual J1939 Version 2017.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Dinwiddie Posted August 16 Share Posted August 16 Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivylog Posted August 17 Share Posted August 17 Fortunately I have a dash switch for the compressor which was worn out. Replaced with a $100 twin cylinder and moved next to the generator. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomasgibbens Posted August 17 Author Share Posted August 17 On 8/15/2024 at 12:33 PM, grizzly said: When mine did that it was because the compressor was worn out inside. I took it apart and it was completely worn to the point that I had to buy a new one. The coach is 45’ and we are currently sitting on the REV lot in Decatur, IN. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malewis11 Posted September 8 Share Posted September 8 A lot of helpful stuff here. For now I wish I could just find the fuse. I even pulled some wires connect to the house batteries, turned off both the house and chassis disconnects, and it still runs! Does anyone know where it is wire into? When my main tanks drop after a few days the aux compressor begins cycling with the leveling “off”. If I level my coach high, the drivers side will drop. If I dump air and level it seems to hold ok. I’m going to do some searching for leaks but I wish I could just kill the power so it will stop waking us up at night. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96 EVO Posted September 8 Share Posted September 8 Usually in your front electrical bay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill R Posted September 10 Share Posted September 10 @Malewis11 There is no fuse I could find for the aux compressor on our "twin" coaches. Trust me, I spent weeks researching, and there is no fuse I could find. If you end up finding one, I would like to know. When my aux compressor was running every 17 minutes, I just disconnected at the pressure switch until I was able to fix all the system leaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
windsorbill06 Posted September 10 Share Posted September 10 (edited) @Bill R @Malewis11Check fuse #6 in FRB. Monaco labeled mine 'spare', but it's the aux compressor. I added a switch to turn it off, but lately it only comes on about every 3rd day. Edited September 10 by windsorbill06 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malewis11 Posted September 10 Share Posted September 10 @Bill R I may have found it for my snowflake. Interesting @windsorbill06 #6 on the drawing I have says it’s on the chassis battery. That would be surprising for an aux compressor. I pulled #6 as well but it still ran. I have been focusing on the legend on the cover of the fuse box and a downloaded owners manual. After digging through some original owners manuals, I discovered a hand written note on a drawing that said the aux compressor is fuse #68. It’s wired to the house batteries and is listed as a spare on every other document I have. I pulled it today after getting some tire work done so I can’t confirm that it is the culprit but after a few days when I reinstall the fuse I will know for sure. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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