Generator running on it own

[Tom Cherry]

11 hours ago, Chargerman said:

It is a 10k unit which functions fine with the AGS fuse removed

TOO MANY different MH’s involved.

@Chargerman is the OP.  It is NOT his MH, but a friend’s 2004 Dynasty. It does NOT have a Magnum, but a Xantrex….or whatever. It has the RC-7 Remote.  That functions the same as the Magnum Remote.  There appears to be an issue with the AGS (not a Magnum) and it is causing the Genny to cycle.  ODDS ARE….it be BROKE…. My assumption. Either locate a new one (or take a BIG chance with a used one….MEGA big chance).  OR. Just abandon the AGS. There are retrofit kits that will work with the Onan.  Might suggest contacting Flight Systems.  They are the REAL GENNY deal and provide tech support as well as refurbised boards They (probably) have a plug and play Wireless AGS that will work with the Onan and NOT through the “defective” OEM AGS.  This is the most practical, but I’m making an assumption….  

FWIW.  There are NO, and Ivan or folks have, I believe, corroborated that the Xantrex RC-7 is obsolete and no new units are produced. THUS….a Dilemma for Cahrgerman’s friend.  If the remote dies….then uograde, as in replace with the current Xantrex unit…or convert to the Magnum equivalent PSW inverter.  Either way….you have to purchase a NEW remote.  And a NEW AGS.  So….the friend has to be aware of the issues and that we are losing older inverters due to an internal issue….not unique to Magnum,  The FET “chips” are the heart of ANY inverter.  They get HOT. They are “glued” or have a special Electronic Thermal  Conductive Paste (grease.). That is what transfers the FET heat to the finned heat sink.  Internal fans on thermostats then cycle on and off and blow air across the fins (like in a gas refrigerator) and the heat is dissipated.  BUT, when this toothpaste like compound ages…it start to chemically deteriorate and crystalizes…..  THEN it is not a 100% CONDUCTIVE THERMAL path from the FET to the Metal (aluminum?) heat sinks.  The FETS run hotter…and eventually RIP.

So, if the friend is forward thinking and cost conscious…delaying replacement of the AGS and monitoring the Inverter might be a wise financial decision. BUT if the AGS is ESSENTIAL as it to folks with pets and such….then look at the options and replace…but being cognizant that the Inverter is well past it’s published useful life.

@thomasgibbens has a 2015 with a 10K and a service center has determined a bad control board…which is common for the 10 and 12.5.  Had a fellow Camelot owner.  He sold his 5 yr old MH and the nest year…at 6 years total, the new owner had a failed board.  We helped him and finally, a Mobile tech confirmed our thoughts….bad board.  He always carried a NEW Onan or a REFURBISHED Flight Systems board.  The refurbished board is still running.  MOISTURE or a coolant leak is usually the culprit…

Thus, we are all on the SAME PLAYBILL….LOL….

[jacwjames]

My AGS is controlled through the RC7 but I do not have a temperature feature, this was an add on.  I went a different route and installed a ECW30 which used a base unit in the coach and communicates wirelessly.  I use it as a back up when we are plugged in, and if the power goes out and temps reach a set point the generator will start.  I actually have it set up with cold temp so that when power goes out the generator will start after a ~2 minute delay.   I test it occassionally when I'm getting ready to leave and shut off the 50 amp breaker and wait for the generator to start.  The ECW30 is obsolete.

There is a newer option for the Onan AGS, it is wireless and easy install, and you can monitor the status via wifi/phone app.

https://www.cummins.com/generators/rv-generators/wireless-rv-auto-generator-start-system

If I were to do something new I'd install one of these.

 

[BMulvenna]

14 hours ago, Chargerman said:

Ivan

  I don’t know what the RC-7 control panel is. It does have the inverter controller above the drivers window but scrolling thru the menus and looking at the manual, I did not see anything related to a AGS. 

Our 04 Dynasty had a xantrex with an rc 7 remote that controlled the ags. Can you post a picture of the control unit you mentioned?

[thomasgibbens]

20 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

UNFORTUNATELY, the 10 KW and 12.5 KW have a KNOWN main board failure.  MOST folks will contact Flight Systems.  They are the EXPERTS and they sell the REFURBISHED boards.  They will ALSO diagnose and help you make sure that is the problem.  They will also TAKE BACK the board if that doesn't help.

REALLY THE BEST SUPPORT out there.  We have have so many members use then and learn and save money.

https://www.flightsystems.com/

Just passing it along.

Thanks, I will get in touch with them. 

[Chargerman]

6 hours ago, bmulvenna@hotmail.com said:

Our 04 Dynasty had a xantrex with an rc 7 remote that controlled the ags. Can you post a picture of the control unit you mentioned?

Here it is

[Tom Cherry]

2 hours ago, Chargerman said:

Here it is

FWIW.

ANY aftermarket AGS will work.  The Magnum AGS-N will only work with the Magnum system.

BUT all the necessary wiring circuits are in the GREEN harness.  So a Flight System unit or a wireless will work.  The control wires to the ONAN arenthere.  There is a SENSING lead.  If Temp is used, then you snake the Sensor phone cable from some place in the cabin to the new system. This is NOT rocket science.  A wireless would be my choice so you can enable and set the parameters without going to the bay.  That is one feature of the Magnum as it integrates with the remote.

The present inverter and RC-7 remote will not be used or impacted.

[Ivan K]

On 8/17/2024 at 8:45 PM, Chargerman said:

Ivan

  I don’t know what the RC-7 control panel is. It does have the inverter controller above the drivers window but scrolling thru the menus and looking at the manual, I did not see anything related to a AGS. 

Steven, this is what RC7 looks in that era, with Xantrex RV inverter. If it doesn't have the GS appendix, it doesn't do auto start.

[Chargerman]

Thanks. That is what he has. Just didn’t notice the model number. I scrolled thru all of the menus and didn’t see anything related to a AGS. I think he is going to replace the switch that is next to the AC thermostat first since it would seem like that is the most likely culprit. I’m thinking the thermostat that’s located in that switch is possibly bad. I’ll report back when I hear from the owner

[Tom Cherry]

curiosity is additive.  BEST I CAN TELL.   Ridgecreek AutoTemp no longer in business.  You CAN buy a USED unit, without the remote, on Ebay for $178.  NOT SURE ABOUT ANY WARRANTY.

Here is a post.....that gives a little bit of INFORMATION.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/generator-ags-400089.html

Xantrex has a Module, standalone....as is the Ridgecreek, that should work.  There is a also a KNOB type Magnum, STILL MADE, that works like the older ones....prior to the Conversion to the AGS-N.  NO IDEA on reliability.  BUT, the issue with the ONE that failed...it was or could be integrated into the Magnum.  SO, odds are....the Magnum might work.

If your friend can NOT find a Temp Sensor....then the thread above says it was a "KNOCK OFF" of the Magnum as in the wiring for the GENNY was the same....so, it should be easy to adapt and install.

Hope he can find a temp sensor that plugs in.  NOW...

IF I'm RIGHT....and big if....  The Magnum ME-TS60 (AGS 60 ft Temp Sensor) might work.  It has an RJ11 (phone) connector.  If Ridgecreek did a knock off of the Magnum, then odds are....They used the SAME Magnum AGS Temp Sensor.

NO GUARANTEES...but they are available for $22 on the NET.  Amazon, however, does not stock.  BUT, it might beat buying a new module....if the SENSOR is the ONLY issue.

NOW....a WAY TO TEST.   SIMPLE.  Cut off a PHONE LINE...assuming that there is a PHONE connector plugged in.  Look at the pins on the OLD SENSOR.  ODDS ARE....it is only TWO Wires.  Then you match the pins and plug in the phone connector.  Then turn on or activate the AGS.  I don't know if the temp sensor OPENS or CLOSES when it needs to work.  BUT, if leaving the TWO wires BARE open or NOT connected.....if the AGS doesn't start....then Touch the TWO WIRES (Bare) together and HOLD THEM ON.  

The WAY an AGS works.....when the signal is MADE....as in the WIRES are CLOSED.....the AGS is energized or the start signal.  BUT....then the AGS takes over and runs for the time it was programmed to.

I can TELL YOU THIS.  I have a TWO wire lead for my Magnum.  It plugs into the AGS Temp jack.  You can use a TIMER or any SWITCH to start it.  So, I programmed a 24 hour timer to bring it on.  Once it comes ON, the AGS starts and runs...  NOW IF the SWITCH or the CIRCUIT is STILL ON..  after the AGS runs for say the programmed 3 HOURS....it turns off.  BUT, since the Circuit was STILL ON....it will restart again.  I FOUND THIS OUT THE HARD WAY.  I could NOT figure out WHY killing the AGS would NOT stop it from RESTARTING.  OPPS....was in the WRONG TIME ZONE.  Had to disconnect the wires.  

SO, i KNOW that making the circuit or jumpering the TWO WIRES that would have come from the AGS Temp Sensor....will ACTIVATE the AGS and it will run for the prescribed time.....and if you shut it off and the circuit is till MADE or the wires connected....it will restart.

That's all I can find out.  I can NOT find a manual for the AGS.