Replaced AC Capacitor - Duo-Therm For It Is Blank

[DBRV.0]

My AC unit #3 in the rear bedroom failed to run its fan.  I could spin-start the fan, which indicated a bad capacitor.  I replaced the capacitor and tested to make sure it was 55/15 MFD.  At the Duo-Therm thermostat zone #3, I could set the zone on Cool, but after several seconds, the screen went blank.  Obviously no AC action - and fan alone would do nothing.  But it would still show the number "3" for the zone.  I cycled the circuit breaker for the AC, and the behavior at the thermostat was repeated.

I then read up on https://www.monacoers.org/topic/5492-front-ac/#comment-52249

I reset the DuoTherm.  Now not even the "3" shows up:

Back on the roof, I did some testing.  I have 117VAC.  But when I test for 12VDC between Red and Black, as shown, there is nothing:

Am I testing the correct wires?

The internals of the 3A fuse (circled) were very hard to see, but when pulled, it Ohm'd as good.

Where does the 12V come from?  Is it generated at the board or come from the interior ceiling cavity, or somewhere else?

- Jeff

[klcdenver]

Sounds like you may have lost communication with it. In the back of the thermostat is a rj44 connector. Remove it and clean with a q-tip and alcohol or correct electrical cleaner. Also take that A/C cover off inside the motorhome and there will be 2 rj44 connectors there and clean them. Next do a thermostat hard reset, by turning it off and hold the top and bottom switches down while you turn it back on. If that doesn’t work more experienced people should have a better idea.

[jacwjames]

Not sure on the routing of all your communication cables. 

I have 2 AC's and the routing goes from thermostat to rear AC and then to the front AC, they are daisy chained.  Monaco used a phone cable coupler to connect the cables so any one of those couplers could be the problem. 

On my rig there is a fuse in my 12 volt distribution panel for the AC's

[DBRV.0]

58 minutes ago, klcdenver said:

Sounds like you may have lost communication with it.

I agree - no communication - with that AC unit, but there is communication with all other units.  This is the state after a hard reset.

What I didn't mention is that I cleaned the data wires to the control board 3 times now, as per Tom Cherry's messaging.  I did the same with the interior data coupler.  I did the same with the AC2 control board, which precedes AC3.  Then I did a hard reset.

When I bought the MH two years ago, my son and I discovered that inconsistent operation of the three AC units was caused by the data cabling.  So we cleaned the contacts at the control boards for the units.  That fixed the gremlins.  And in our work, we discovered that it appears that communication goes from the Duo-Therm to AC1 (front), then chain connected to AC2 (middle), then chain connected to AC3 (rear), and if I now understand, AC3 is then chain connected to an unconnected dangler under and inside the air intake of AC3.

But after all of my data connection cleaning, I returned a basic question, which is, "Is there power?"  My understanding is that the units need AC and DC power.  I can confirm AC power, but either there is no DC power or I don't know the test points.  So I think the issue is how to get DC power to the control board inside the unit.  I am uncertain how DC gets there, which is what I tried to ask in my initial post.

- Jeff

[CorinthWest]

Jeff,

I have the same thermostat.  I also have original Penguins (not Penguin II's) and I only have a forward and a rear stateroom zone (A/C unit).  Having said this, I have been working on my A/C units and have decided to  upgrade them to heat pumps, which I am in the process of doing.  Your post caught my eye because I have the wiring schematics for my coach right here on my desk.  Here is what I see on mine..........110V comes from a circuit breaker for each unit respectively.  The 110V goes THROUH the EMS (which caught fire last week, BTW), then to the respective A/C unit.  The forward A/C unit controls the entire A/C system (on mine).  An RJ44 data cable connects the thermostat to the FORWARD unit (only).  Then there is an RJ44 data cable that connects the forward unit to the rear unit.  Each unit ALSO has an RJ44 data cable leading to it's OWN thermistor (one in the front and one in the back).  12V power is supplied via connectors P113/C113 TO THE FRONT UNIT ONLY (see schematic).  The RJ44 data cable that goes from the front unit to the rear unit is what supplies the rear unit's 12V.  I will try to upload a pic of the schematic.  But in your picture, I see the RJ44 connectors on the board are empty.  If you disconnected these cables, this could explain why you don't have 12V.

Edited August 26 by CorinthWest
Typo

[DBRV.0]

54 minutes ago, CorinthWest said:

But in your picture, I see the RJ44 connectors on the board are empty.  If you disconnected these cables, this could explain why you don't have 12V.

Corinth,

Thank you.  In my picture, the phone cables are actually out of the picture frame.  The connectors for them are in the bottom left of the picture.  Connection comes upwards into the sockets, so the cables themselves cannot be seen there.

In the diagram you attached, I see "Phone cable", just as you commented.  This is what my son and I found with ours, and what I called "chain connected".  If I understand some of Tom Cherry's comments with other HVAC topics, he calls these cables as Data Cables because one of the "RJ11" connectors is flipped, making them electronically different than a true RJ11 phone cable.  Perhaps the proper name is then RJ44?  Tom's "dissertation" is covered in https://www.monacoers.org/topic/8808-front-air-conditioning-unit-randomly-shuts-off-leaving-thermostat-blank-for-zone-2/#comment-93382

Other valuable information and commentary by Tom Cherry is found in https://www.monacoers.org/topic/6525-lost-the-duotherm-5-button-connections-completely-blank-2007-diplomat/#comment-64698.  In it, he included an installation document.  That document has what I would consider an example wiring schematic on page 16:

In the above, there are two power connections highlighted: 12VDC and 115VAC.  The 12V is separate, I think, from the RJ11 connectors.  The 12V is identified by red and black connectors, which is what I was trying to test.  See my original entry.

- Jeff

Edited August 26 by DBRV.0

[CorinthWest]

Okay, for sake of argument, let's call them "phone cables"....LOL.  The test point you are using looks like it is an OUTPUT.  I still maintain your 12V is coming from the comfort control circuit ("phone cable") which should come from either the thermostat -OR- the main unit (most likely since this unit is a "slave" because it is zone #3).  But I could absolutely be wrong.

-R

[DBRV.0]

I'm OK with phone cables.  It just dawned on me that I could test those connectors on one of my other AC units.  I'll check later - I hear thunder overhead, but no rain yet.

[CorinthWest]

Jeff,

Keep us posted.  Inquiring minds need to know.

No kite flying today, bud.  Okay?

-R

[cjmikek]

Did you replace the whole roof unit with a new unit or repair the old unit? If you replaced the whole unit you will need the conversion board to work with the old thermostat.

[Tom Cherry]

OK....LETS START OVER....

EDITED as a BLOWUP of the DIP switches was posted.  The NUMBER ONE switch... I FORGOT.  SO, the COUNT or position was wrong.  I have edited and corrected that...  See a subsequent post for the blow up of the switch numbers.

Here is the CORRECT Drawing for your system.  This comes DIRECTLY from the Monaco Supplied CD...

OK....LETS go from here.  IF the board that you have in the picture is the HVAC Board....then it was NOT SET PROPERLY from the Factory.  @Frank McElroy had an issue with his and it drove him crazy. If you are NOT aware, If Steve Jobs and Bill Gates and Thomas Edison and the TOP NASA Electrical Engineer combine their sperm and they had a KID....it would be Frank...  LOL...

There are FOUR Zones on your system.  NOTICE that ZONE 3 on the Print is the REAR bedroom.  The DIP Switch on that BOARD has to set to ZONE 3.  IF I blew up your picture....the DIP is set to Zone 4.

TRY THAT....  

NOW....as to the 12 VDC.  OK....Monaco TYPICALLY ran 12 VDC power to the boards.  However, based on what Frank told...  His ZONE 4 does NOT have any incoming 12 VDC.  NOW....FWIW...  Dometic says that it is ONLY NECESSARY to provide ONE 12 VDC line to a SYSTEM.  A SYSTEM is defined as one WITH a Thermostat.  THUS< if your MH had TWO Thermostats...as MANY DO....then each System would have had to have 12 VDC power to ONE of the Control Modules.

NOW, based on what Frank said, his Hidden Zone (which is labeled as ZONE 4 was NOT labeled properly.  He had to dig around and find it.  IT IS HIDDEN...and he may chime in.  BUT, once he REPROGRAMMED it to Zone 4...and also checked on the OTHER zones to make sure they were OK....all is well. It DID NOT have 12 VDC, but WAS on the Communications Data Cable circuit....as it should be.  THUS, it got ITS power from the Data Cable.  

SO, if you start troubleshooting.  the FRONT AC should NOT have any ZONE dip switch on.  By DEFAULT is is ZONE 1.  There WILL also be the Furnace (or whatever as I can't read the picture) ON.  That is DIP SWITCH position 5  SO, in the front.  Only DIP 5 is ON.  The middle unit. ....this is the WAY at Monaco SUPPOSEDLY did it.  And GOD ONLY KNOWS....how the Assemblers installed or hooked up.  LOOK AT THE PRINT.

Now the MIDDLE Controller should ONLY HAVE DIP 2 ON.  It is for AC only.  NO FURNACE or DIP 5 is OFF.

Rear Bedroom AC.  Dip 3 ON and also DIP 5 ON....as it has a FURNACE or AH zone.

HIDDEN ZONE 4 CONTROLLER.  It should be DIP  4 ON and DIP 5 ON  ...as in the PICTURE of your ROOFTOP...IF that is the ONE you pictures....and it is ON THE ROOF.

NOW, if your picture is the HIDDEN CONTROLLER...then it WILL NOT have any POWER....and DIP 4 and DIP 5 ON.

SO....where was the CONTROLLER? If it is IN THE UNIT on the ROOF....?? THEN, it is programmed wrong.  BUT, if you found the elusive HIDDEN Controller....the it will be ZONE 4 and it WILL NOT have power.

GEE... EVEN I am confused....so 

FRONT DIP 5 is ON (ZONE 1 by Default)

MIDDLE DIP 2 is ON  (Zone 2) and DIP 5 is OFF....as there is NO HEAT or Furnace connected.

REAR DIP 3 is ON  (Zone 3) and DIP 5 is ON

Hidden, NOT in the ROOF TOP UNIT, DIP 4 is ON  (Zone 4) and DIP 5 is ON

That's it.

Check that out...and let us KNOW.  

THEN....  FOLKS reading this should ALSO go to this link....it is a NEW TOPIC....and it relates to HVAC and the Connectors....

 

 

 

 

AquaHot Schematic - 2009 Dynasty and up...probably 2008 also.pdf HVAC 38080368 Layout of HVAC Power and Thermostat connections - 2009 Dynasty...mayb3 2008.pdf

Edited August 27 by Tom Cherry
Correct DIP Switch Settings

[DBRV.0]

Tom,

Excellent information, as always.

Here is another angle of the dip switches:

This issue is for my AC #3, above the bedroom.

To summarize and re-establish perspective, this is summer #2 in which everything was working correctly.  The condenser for AC3 went out, so I replaced the condenser.  That's the only thing I did.  No other changes such as touching dip switches.  When the Duo-Therm could not "see" AC3, I started cleaning phone / data cable ends.  No success.  So I repeated the cleaning a second and a third and in some locations, a fourth time.  AC1 and AC2 have continued to work the whole time.

I ordered a data cable analyzer - hopefully it will be delivered today.  I want to verify that some bad coincidence did not happen to the data cable that feeds AC3.

A couple of questions:  (1) should I try to pursue ensuring that I can measure 12V on the AC3 control board?  (2) should I consider swapping AC control boards, say, between AC2 and AC3 to see if something happened to the board?  Maybe someone will say that a bad board moved to location AC2 will not allow AC3 to work?

Any thoughts?

- Jeff

 

[Tom Cherry]

20 minutes ago, DBRV.0 said:

Tom,

Excellent information, as always.

Here is another angle of the dip switches:

This issue is for my AC #3, above the bedroom.

To summarize and re-establish perspective, this is summer #2 in which everything was working correctly.  The condenser for AC3 went out, so I replaced the condenser.  That's the only thing I did.  No other changes such as touching dip switches.  When the Duo-Therm could not "see" AC3, I started cleaning phone / data cable ends.  No success.  So I repeated the cleaning a second and a third and in some locations, a fourth time.  AC1 and AC2 have continued to work the whole time.

I ordered a data cable analyzer - hopefully it will be delivered today.  I want to verify that some bad coincidence did not happen to the data cable that feeds AC3.

A couple of questions:  (1) should I try to pursue ensuring that I can measure 12V on the AC3 control board?  (2) should I consider swapping AC control boards, say, between AC2 and AC3 to see if something happened to the board?  Maybe someone will say that a bad board moved to location AC2 will not allow AC3 to work?

Any thoughts?

- Jeff

 

THANKS for blowing up the PICTURE.  SHOULD have pulled the DIP switch. I will UPDATE the post since I missed that DIP1 (and NOW, I DO recall it... LOL) so, just add ONE to my post....

NOW...  if YOUR Board (the one in the REAR AC) is NOT showing up...  THEN it could be ONE of TWO THINGS...

First..  Monaco CHEATED and it HAPPENS...  NO 12 VDC.  MY MEMORY....and the prints are sparse...  there SHOULD be 12 VDC to it.  BUT, by the SAME token....if it did NOT have 12 VDC, then there is a BAD connection in the cabling.  MY TAKE.  UNPLUG the danglers (the ones that go from the Control Module to the inside (I think on your Dynasty...wherever the inline connectors are.  Here is WHAT I DO NOT KNOW....the exact Data Cable routing.  It matters NOT that the cabling is run from 1 - 2 - 3 - 4.  When the Thermostat is rebooted....it read the ZONE numbers...and the other DIP switches.  Your REAR may have only one.  It may have TWO if it then goes to the Hidden Zone 4.

SO, unplug and CLEAN the phone connectors on the MODULE.  They are INTERCHANGEABLE and have NO POLARITY.  They are, in reality, a Parallel connection.  The data cable is running along....it feeds INTO the Module and OUT again....and there is a TAP that goes to the Control Module.  Think a parallel switch on a line with a number of parallel switches.  SO... if you have NO incoming 12 VDC....and there is NO 12 VDC on the terminals....then that is the issue.  

Personally, a data analyzer for me a bit of overkill.  You can USE the GROUND cable (bare WIRE) on the 120 VAC as GROUND.  GROUND IS GROUND...  Then run a temp 12 VDC line from any source in the MH....  The CPU area has BIG red cables going to the Intellitec Modules.  THAT is easy to tap into.  An alligator clip will work.  SO, pull the cables off the board.  THEN use alligator clips (watching polarity) to GROUND one and then put the MPX Module's power to the other.  REBOOT.  If that doesn't display it...you have RULED OUT POWER. 

ODDS ARE... the danglers got bumped or are NOT seated.  You need to reseat and clean them on the Control Module.

The Thermostat is NOT seeing the switch settings...  and powering it temporarily will resolve that.  NOW, I don't know of any INLINE fuses for the POWER....it comes off a FUSE (at least on the Camelot's) in the MAIN 12 VDC panel.  It is NOT marked at HVAC one mine.  NOW if Monaco then used TWO different feeds to the front and REAR zones....that would explain it.

You CAN also use a VOM to isolate the two pair.  ONE will be a PURE 12 VDC and if you switch the probes...you will se the polarity change.  THE OTHER TWO...are the MPX Data Buss Signal. That is easy to do and many members have done that....then they found out.  HEY...the FUSE IS BLOWN...and it "LOOKED" OK.  TRUST ME....they admitted that....honesty and experience are great helpers.

I really don't think...and am NOT the expert on how one of these data analyzers works.....how much good. IT WILL tell you, probably, what is going on...but how you tap into it and such...  Is there a "T" connection.

I'd focus on the danglers.  You COULD even steal the danglers from the FRONT and put them back there.  THEY are working.  If that doesn't solve it...after you have cleaned and played around back there....  then odds are  BAD Control Module.  THEN you pull the front ONE....and then REPROGRAM the DIP Settings.  just REMOVE the Danglers from the connectors UP FRONT...and then plug in ONE data cable to the OTHER....you will LOSE the front....but you have bypassed that unit and sent the MPX signal and power to the rear...

That's my logic....others will differ.  We all get there...some different routes...and some faster....some slower.  BUT that is how it works and how to test.

[Bill R]

@DBRV.0  Reading your initial post you are describing that your fan would not start unless you spun it.  So for clarity, what you replaced was the start up capacitor?  You even refer to checking the capacitance rating of 55/15 MFD.  Is this correct?  You have been referring to replacing the condenser, but typically that is not done on these units without replacing the entire unit.  Can you clarify?

You should have 12V at the unit.  As @jacwjames mentioned, you should have a fuse panel for this.  Mine is located under the main 120V panel.  Check your wiring diagrams to locate where the fuse is and check that.

[Tom Cherry]

TWO POINTS.... 

FIRST, I have included the PDF of the Dometic Instruction or Installation Manual on the Data Communications Cable.  There seems to be some "VOODOO Magic" about this.  Now we HAVE many experts...but One picture and one Explanation might be helpful.  SO, all you ever wanted to KNOW about the Dometic Data Communications Cable is in this PDF.  SO, refer to it....

SECOND...Please NOTE that this is a 2009 Dynasty.  It has a unique "configuration" of wiring and boards.  There are maybe 10 boards in the rear and at least 13 or 14 in the front.

The MH is also equipped with Circuit Breakers for many key circuits...NOT fuses for every thing and Monaco also did NOT label the HVAC fuses...or at least on many.  My HVAC circuit is labeled as SAT as in Satellite.  NO mention of HVAC, which is critical.  Go FIGURE....

As to the 12 VDC.  It is NOT necessary to have 12 VDC at ALL the control modules.  Dometic states that very clearly.  ONE is sufficient.  Monaco, though, was redundant.  However, Monaco has "GOOFED" before.  The 12 VDC for the units comes from a common line.

BUT, in the later model Dynasty....there is also a HIDDEN...as they hid in behind or somewhere that requires disassembly.  That unit is a stand alone Control Module.  Monaco DID NOT run 12 VDC to it.  Instead they depended on the 12 VDC pair in the Data Communication Cable.  Technically, as Dometic states....ONLY ONE control Module needs 12 VDC.  Then that sends the 12 VDC to the OTHERS...as well as to the Thermostat. It is a Milliamp signal, I think....could be wrong...but it is running on #22 or 24 Wire in the Data Communications cable.

The PROOF or test will be to measure the voltage across the incoming pins of the Data Communication cables....at the rear unit.  The unit WORKED BEFORE.  After the 120 VAC repairs and such.....then Zone 3 did NOT "boot up".  That is an indication of a Faulty Data Cable....on the other PAIR of wires in the Data Communication Cable.

BEST GUESS....based on at least 15 years of helping and also understanding the issues.  There is a faulty cable connection in either the inline connectors or the short "extensions" or danglers to the Control Board. This is where it GETS tricky.  SOME of the models did NOT, I was told, have the Danglers or the short extension from the Roof top Control Module...and the Data Cables run UP through the Plenum and are plugged DIRECTLY into the Control Board.  OTHERS, like most, had a short "Data Communication Extension Cable....TWO of them.  They hang DOWN in the Plenum and you use the Inline connectors to attach or put them in to the MPX Buss Circuit

Therein, 90% of the time...is the issue.  If there is NOT a positive connection, then that particular Control Module does do the HANDSHAKE with the Thermostat.

Hope that explains it.   This is a complex subject and since Monaco often did things a little strange....there is NOT ONE particular solution that fits all.

BUT, the Data Communications Cable is a 2 PAIR run.  ONE pair is 12 VDC....which powers and if there is redundant power on the Control Module....that is good...but not necessary. The MOST important thing that the single pair Data Buss (I think that is the correct term) or the MPX operated wires MUST boot us and let the Thermostat identify ALL the Control Panels as well as their DIP switch settings.  THEN. that Handshake circuit MUST BE maintained....

Maybe we will get feedback....

Dometic Penguin Data Communications Cable Instructions..pdf

[jacwjames]

On 8/27/2024 at 1:27 PM, DBRV.0 said:

The condenser for AC3 went out, so I replaced the condenser. 

 

 

To be honest I've never heard of anyone replacing a condenser on a roof top AS, not saying it can't be done but not very common. 

Are you sure you mean condenser???  I did a search for a condenser using my old AC's part number and can't find any  in stock.

 

Do you mean capacitor??

[96 EVO]

All I have is ... Report, Share, or Edit.

[DBRV.0]

21 hours ago, jacwjames said:

Do you mean capacitor??

Of course.  I have no idea where that came from - maybe the old days information about "points and condenser" became unmoored in the brain.  CAPACITOR is what I meant to say, wherever I wrote the wrong name.

Rain has ended, so time for an update.  Some of these I am writing as my own notes, so there may be TMI for some.

First, as a reminder, AC3 is the unit that is not working, AC2 does work.  Back in the initial posting, I was thinking that I should be able to measure 12VDC at the "red" and "black" connection points.  There is no voltage there for either AC2 or AC3.  Makes me wonder.  So onto the next point.

The RJ11 (phone/data cable) at AC2 shows 12VDC on the outer wires of the 4 wire cable.  I didn't have a break-out box to separate the wires, so I utilized the circuit board:

On the back of the board where the sockets are soldered, I found +12VDC by touching the negative lead to the AC metal chassis and positive lead to the point shown:

I was able to verify the 12VDC on both AC2 and AC3.

With the new $30 data cable testing tool that I purchased (useful for RJ45 as well), I found or verified the following:

1) I disconnected the RJ11 Phone Cables from AC2 and AC3.  I could not get a [testing tool] signal for that cable between AC2 and AC3.

2) At AC3, there are two RJ11 Phone Cables.  BOTH go from the rooftop AC unit, down into the interior air intake.

3) For my AC3, one of those two interior Phone Cables is connected to nothing.  Just dangles.

4) For my AC3, the other of the two interior Phone Cables is has a coupler.  The coupler has a Phone Cable on each end:

At this point, looking at the diagram(s) from Tom Cherry and others, I realized that the communication goes from Zone 1 to 2 to 4 to 3.  This means Zone 4 needs to be located.  By Tom's words, it is buried in some mysterious location.

As frustrated as I am currently writing all of this up, I re-powered 120VAC to AC3 via the coach circuit breaker.

I hard-booted the Duo-Therm thermostat.

All four Zones were found by the thermostat!  The problem disappeared!  Just like Tom Cherry predicted!  I am of the 90%!

All I can say is that if you mess around enough with the Phone Cables, you may expel whatever gremlin is lurking.

Thank you all for your interest, patience and support!

- Jeff

 

Edited August 29 by DBRV.0

[woodylmiller]

I am having the same issue.  Thought I would check that all 3 A/C's are working before heading south.  Zone 1 is working.  2,3 and 4; nothing.  Screen is blank except for the zone numbers.  Tried the hard reset.  Got the FF code and then a second later I get an "EE" code and now nothing works, not even zone 1.  Has anyone ever seen that code?  How was it fixed?  100 degree weather here so I haven't gone up on the roof, hoping to avoid that.  Maybe first thing in the morning.   I also turned the 3 breakers on/off and the batteries, on and off.  Just stuck with a thermostat that reads "EE".

Woody Miller

09 Dynasty

[woodylmiller]

I'm a little confused.  I want to get some spare couplers for the data cables.  I looked at the couplers from L-Com and the description says "crossed", but I thought a coupler should be a straight thru connection.  I understand crossed in data transfer, but the coupling is what is confusing me if it is labeled as "crossed".  I did read where Tom said the L-Com Modular Coupler, RJ11 (6x4), Cross Wired Item # TDG1026-4R, is the correct part and that it works for some strange reason.  Being a retired electrician I have seen many things that don't make sense so nothing new there.  I have to ask if a phone coupler would work just as well?

As luck would have it, while trying to clean the plugs on the A/C units the little clip the keeps the plugs in broke.  The air around the unit turned blue as I cursed it with a few well chosen words.  Got 20 replacement cable ends on the way.  I just want to make sure about the couplers before I order.  Thanks,

Woody Miller

09 Dynasty

[Tom Cherry]

19 minutes ago, woodylmiller said:

I'm a little confused.  I want to get some spare couplers for the data cables.  I looked at the couplers from L-Com and the description says "crossed", but I thought a coupler should be a straight thru connection.  I understand crossed in data transfer, but the coupling is what is confusing me if it is labeled as "crossed".  I did read where Tom said the L-Com Modular Coupler, RJ11 (6x4), Cross Wired Item # TDG1026-4R, is the correct part and that it works for some strange reason.  Being a retired electrician I have seen many things that don't make sense so nothing new there.  I have to ask if a phone coupler would work just as well?

As luck would have it, while trying to clean the plugs on the A/C units the little clip the keeps the plugs in broke.  The air around the unit turned blue as I cursed it with a few well chosen words.  Got 20 replacement cable ends on the way.  I just want to make sure about the couplers before I order.  Thanks,

Woody Miller

09 Dynasty

Search is your FRIEND.  Posted a topic that gives the EXACT one to order….as well as HOW to test any new ones.  I’m going to state, broadly, that most who order from Amazon…and that includes me….have the wrong spares…

 

There is, to the BEST of my knowledge, no way, except to find a PDF, which I “notated”….pardon my tech drawings skills….to KNOW. NOW…if your connector ain’t a straight thru….it ain’t gonna work.

NEXT UP.  Welcome to the club of DISBELIEVING.  I say this with the utmost respect…but also over 50 or more “cases” where when it is HOT and the family is grumpy….things go south fast.  I cleaned….I had had an issue a few years before.  It took TWO cleanings and many PLUG/UNPLUG’s to get it to RESET. The EE is an error…as in…you got the FF…and then it said…OPPS, my BAD.  Read the Penguin Install manual.  It discusses such.

Second thing….many folks don’t believe that the system will magically work….then FAIL.  MPX and the digital data signal is perplexing.  Few understand it…and I don’t pretend to be an expert.  I KNOW how MPX, from a macro viewpoint works.  The little wires are sending discrete digital codes back and forth at lightning speeds…..and each system is different.  I only recently learnd, thanks to Frank McElroy, the “code and logic” of how a lighted switch on an Intellitec panel works….and might fail his pop quiz.

SO…for all.  Clean and plug and unplug.  Do NOT be of the school that “hey it works….and didn’t have to reboot”….it will fail….at the most inopertune time…on that, you can wager.

Glad it is working.  IF YOU FIND A GOOD ONE….let us know.  BUT the Caveat….Amazon vendors and the pop ups that copy the ad’s and offer a similar product are NOTORIOUSLY INACCURATE.  So…as long as one works….order spares.  The “same” supplier or vendor will change their source for a 1% price difference and they have NO INCOMING INSPECTION nor QC.  Trust me…same for some Lowes Utilitec brands….test every one….

MORE LATER….

 

[CorinthWest]

FWIW:  I have become accustomed to using "Dielectric grease" on just about anything electrical, especially where the connection is exposed to the elements or humidity.  It has never failed to protect an electrical connection for me.  You can purchase it in a fairly big tube (I use CRC).  Small packets of it sometimes come with automotive light bulbs.  I will put a dab of it on my A/C connectors when I install the new units in the coach.  The purpose of the grease is to keep the electrical connections from corroding due to water/moisture while preserving the connectivity.  It works.

[Tom Cherry]

Two comments.  Dometic has never recommended using dielectric or bulb grease.  Since this is a sliding or light friction fit between the tiny contacts…. I don’t know.  If you get a chance, please reach out to Dometic tech support and ask that question.  I have been involved in at least 100, yes…that many…issues and 90% of the time, it is the connector and the RJ11.  I did talk to a knowledgeable telecommunications tech support…who actually found the CORRECT PN or correct or OEM style.  I told him the application.  He advised a “permanent” solution.  In the field….it is common to use a split J-Box. There is a strain relief on each end. You secure the cables on each end….leaving some slack inside. Then you close or secure the two halves….and totally “wrap” or encapsulate with a waterproof foam tape….much like hvac foam tape….then a protective layer or HVAC Metallic tape.  That eliminates the dirt and grit and moisture and the “vibration”.  I thanked him….and then explained WHERE the connector was located….in the HVAC Plenum.  He laughed….

Serioulsy, I have never had a member report the use of Dielectric grease when they cleaned….but who knows.  My comment would be to not do such unless Dometic specifically endorsed it…

A quick google says NO.  The grease is an insulator.  It is supposed to be used on the plastic and glass of a bulb and not encapsulating the contacts.  The “experts”….assuming they KNOW say KNOW.  That it actually makes the tiny wires harder to maintain the mpx or analog connection… Googled Bulb Grease RJ11 Telecommunications Connections….

OK…..NOW for the SECOND.  I don’t know about the rest of you.  I carry spares of spares.  I ordered 5 “phone connectors”….said straight.  I lost them….as I put them somewhere where I WOULD NEVER LOSE THEM.  Side note.  A buddy and his wife spent 10 years cruising on a 40 ft sailboat.  He was ADHD.  His wife labeled every box and cabinet and cubby on the boat.  He horded spares like I do.  She had an inventory of every box…and an alphabetical index or look up reference…..my brain USED to work that way.

SO….found the original 6 pin ones and the 4 pin replacements.  Mr. EXTECH DVOM/AMMETER…with special small long tips….REJECTED every ONE.  They were all CROSSED…but the ad copy said straight.  Trash.  Gonna order new ones….and mark down, on note card, where I hid them.

THAT WAS MY MORE LATER.  I suspected such….but had NOT found them to test.

Make sure you order the correct ones.  Test them. Had my DW put her finger down securely and hold the body securely.  Easy to probe or touch the outside wire on each end….crossed….ain’t gonna work….

BUT…silver lining.  I found a NEW, warranty replacement, TPMS sensor.  Had one die….now all working….did a lot of housekeeping….  LOL

[DBRV.0]

18 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Dometic has never recommended using dielectric or bulb grease.

FWIW, I use dielectric / synthetic grease wherever there is possible corrosion - specifically weather-exposed, and especially "bolt" connections.  I now even smear a thin film on battery terminals.  Light-contact points such as RJ11 plugs might be temperamental, but a little wiggle should allow contact, yet protect.  I changed my MO a few years ago when I purchased a multi-terminal buss bar that had a small sample tube.

[woodylmiller]

Thanks Tom, I have ordered the 6p4c connectors and couplings, straight thru on the couplings.  I will match exactly the color code on the old RJ11 plugs.  

As you note about "grease" it is kind of thick.  Electricians use it all the time on aluminum conductors/connections, but we torque those connections which eliminates any issue with the dielectric grease.  Also used for dissimilar metals connections.   I understand the reason for using it but on the data plugs just wipe off as much excess as you can if you use it.  They make a silicone dielectric grease that might be better, not sure.  My container is 50 years old and I can't remember why I have it.  I have some grease from Isco, I think that was the brand and it was almost runny.  I did have a switch fail that was exposed to the elements that had the grease on it followed by a 1/4inch of Scotch rubber and vinyl insulating tape and it still corroded and failed.

Woody Miller

09 Dynasty