Has anyone REPLACED a Dometic NDA 1402

[Ron Shantos]

I would like to replace my current Dometic NDA 1402 with a 12 volt version. My search for a replacement of the same or close to measurements has not been very successful. Mine is in a 2008 Beaver Contessa.  Thanks in Advance...

 

Ron

[Tom Cherry]

OK....from the TOP.  Ordinarily, since refrigerator replacement is common place, this would have been combined with an older topic.  However, being familiar with the 1402 and your preference is NOT a Residential Unit....which is 95% of the Replacements....I searched and theses older topics have about everything one needs to know.

Not knowing your knowledge base....with regard to the Dometic (GAS) compared to a Res Refer....which is SIMILAR to a 12 VDC compressor model....here are a few points to consider.

FIRST.  The Samsung RF18 is the most popular model.  I had the Dometic 1402.  The RF is taller.  BUT, my Dometic was on top of a DRAWER.  That was easily removed and then woodwork around the sides (where the door glides and such were) was cut flush...thus the Samsung fit perfectly on the floor...  It was a GREAT JOB and we wished we had done it sooner.

Second.  With a COMPRESSOR style unit (not a GAS Absorption) you will need to totally RIP OUT the insulation.  You DO NOT insulate a Compressor Refrigerator.  Mine had the insulation attached to the sidewalls.  That is there....TWO REASONS.  First SAFETY.  In the event of a CO leak....you are protected or not at risk.  SECOND....the insulation also BLOCKS or holds in the HVAC or conditioned air inside the MH.

NOW....you WILL need to totally SEAL and insulate the Lower Vent Cover...including the louvers in the frame...if you have that style.  A Res Refer, if you are out in the low 30's will CUT OFF.  The NEW Energy Star regs do NOT allow them to be used on the back porch or in an unheated garage.  The UPPER vent...sidewall or roof will also have to be sealed.  AGAIN to keep them working....BUT ALSO to prevent you from air conditioning the great OUTDOORS.  This is like it is at HOME.  SO, you have to SEAL UP the MH...

Other than that....it is a MATTER of what will FIT.  MANY times there is a Furnace UNDER the Refrigerator.  IF SO...then you will have to do a LOT of digging to FIND one to fit.  There are some folks that have upgraded to a 12 VDC unit....  Some actually "converted", I think...their Norcolds.

However, MOST opt to go 120 VAC and run the Refrigerator off the Icemaker outlet.  The draw is very low and no one has issues... SOME do opt for a separate inverter....but the HOUSE bank is providing energy (Current) for that.  So, not too much to gain... 

That's about it.... 

Please do your own search... I just pulled up the TWO LONG topics.  There is probably 10 different topics on GAS REFER REPLACEMENT and MOST are conventionals.

If you strike out on dimensions there there are some Brands that have different sizes and you just have to beat the bushes. A J Madison has the BEST selection of units and also ALL the dimensions.  That was or is the GO TO PLACE for members that could not fit in a Samsung.  SOME are pricey....but so is a replacement Norcold or Dometic.  Think over $4K....versus $1K...  That pays for a LOT of install labor...

Good Luck....get a cup of coffee and start reading...  IT IS ALL IN THE TOPICS BELOW.

 

 

RF18HFENBSR_F6 Specifications.pdf

[96 EVO]

Check this thread...

 

[CAT Stephen]

@Ron Shantos,

 

To help you further distill the best solution for you, please share your camping style:

- Do you utilize your RV primarily via grid or are you primarily boondocking (i.e. no-grid)?

- Do you have solar?

- Do you have a generator?

- What is the condition of your Dometic NDA 1402 --> Inoperable due to failed cooling unit for example

[Ron Shantos]

We  very rarely boondock.

We do have solar.

We have a generator.  We only use it on the road when the outdoor temps are real high.

Our Dometic NDA1402 blew the 5 amp 120volt (AC) fuse for an unknown reason.  Replace fuse and did notice the sign of ammonia leakage (orange residue) small amount in the bottom of the refrig.  Unit was working just fine before the fuse blew.

So, is a small amount of the ammonia reside normal??

 

 

[96 EVO]

No amount is normal!

[Tom Cherry]

2 hours ago, Ron Shantos said:

We  very rarely boondock.

We do have solar.

We have a generator.  We only use it on the road when the outdoor temps are real high.

Our Dometic NDA1402 blew the 5 amp 120volt (AC) fuse for an unknown reason.  Replace fuse and did notice the sign of ammonia leakage (orange residue) small amount in the bottom of the refrig.  Unit was working just fine before the fuse blew.

So, is a small amount of the ammonia reside normal??

 

 

NOPE…like saying a small amount of Cyanide in your food is OK.  The Dometics are pretty robust.  I’d call Lippert.  Talk to the techs.  BUT if you see reside then that is a FIRE and PERSONAL Safety issue.  IF you continue to use it, Purchase a COMBO Fire and CO detector….or TWO….assuming the will LINK.  Put one behind or sort of up the flue….above the burner…..and then the “mated or paired” one in the bedroom.  That way you will be alerted to a fire or CO issue.

ASSUME you have a BiDirectional charging system….in that you house is charged as you drive and chassis charged while on shore. A RES REFER will be more energy efficient and you should have a 2000 Watt Inverter/Charger.  Whole LOT less $$. 

Your call….just trying to point out some facts….

[96 EVO]

DON'T continue to use the fridge if there is any signs of ammonia leaking! 

[Ron Shantos]

Really appreciate the information and feedback on this refrig issue.  Sounds like the 2008 Beaver Contessa is going to get a new residential refrig.  Now to find the best fit for the space. 

This forum has very informative CONSTRUCTIVE information and feedback!

 

Thanks to ALL,

Ron

[96 EVO]

3 minutes ago, Ron Shantos said:

Really appreciate the information and feedback on this refrig issue.  Sounds like the 2008 Beaver Contessa is going to get a new residential refrig.  Now to find the best fit for the space. 

This forum has very informative CONSTRUCTIVE information and feedback!

 

Thanks to ALL,

Ron

Yeah, I'm probably not long behind you!

Same yr coach and NDA 1402.

[CAT Stephen]

@Ron Shantos,

 

Given your current use case, here are your options in the order of cost:

Install Residential Refrigerator (See post by @Tom Cherry above): ~$650

- Manufacturers Info: https://www.frigidaire.com/en/p/kitchen/refrigerators/top-freezer-refrigerators/FFHT1425VV

- Lowest Cost Retailer: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frigidaire-13-9-cu-ft-Top-Freezer-Refrigerator-brushed-steel-FFHT1425VV/310378589?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&srsltid=AfmBOorzBaDxUKNo86fSO121VLmYg7VNZxn4bEoBE5zlCuP_YsXbZ-f6Gps

- Pros: Lowest cost, excellent temperature control versus absorption cooling unit : 

- Cons: Requires your inverter to be running full time when not connected to the grid.  Running inverters offgrid substantially increases offgrid power consumption.  Non-Danfloss compressor has much higher watt hour power consumption that 12VDC danfloss refrigerators.  Requires carpentry skill to install.  Requires secure attachment to your RV (Most forum members use racheting cargo straps), other RV modifications required (reference post above by @Tom Cherry)

 

Upgrade existing refrigerator to Amish 12VDC Danfloss Based Compressor unit (See @96 EVO post above): $N/A

- Compressor based Cooling units are not available for your current refrigerator from JC Refrigeration  

 

Install new 12VDC RV Refrigerator: $1170 (Currently discounted 10%for holiday only)

- https://www.recpro.com/rv-refrigerator-10-cubic-feet-12v-stainless-steel/

- Pros: Midrange cost, excellent temperature control versus absorption cooling unit, native product for mobile use but still requires RV modifications (reference post above by @Tom Cherry), Doesn't require your inverter which substantially extends your house battery life and takes full advantage of your solar install potentially resulting in long term off grid usage provided that other electrical consumption doesn't exceed your house battery bank capacity.

- Cons: Requires installation of new two (2) conductor 10 Gauge (Minimum) wiring terminating at your house battery bank.  Less space available versus residential refrigerator applying only to your specific refrigerator cutout. Requires secure attachment to your RV (Most forum members use racheting cargo straps)

Edited August 30 by CAT Stephen

[gaylesmith]

Hello Ron - 

We originally had a Dometic 1210 that struggled for a year so we put in a Norcold Polar Elite 12v. It was pricey but we did not have to modify our existing cabinet. Pretty much plug and play. We were in a time crunch with an upcoming trip and did not want to take on the job of modifying the cabinet. We installed it this spring and have been extremely happy with it so far. Shop around as we found at least $1,000 difference in online sellers.

https://norcold.com/product/polar-n15dc/

Edited August 31 by gaylesmith

[Ron Shantos]

After digesting all this is information I am thinking EITHER a 120V or a 12 Volt??  I really would like the 120 volt residential option.  Here is how we use our Beaver Contessa.

1. We have NEVER boondocked.

2. We use the RV 4 or 5 times a year for typical 2 week trips.

3. We have 4 6 volt batteries on the coach side with a Magnum ME2012 inverter.

4. We do NOT need an ice maker.

5. We are always connected to 120 Volts and are connected to 120 at least two days before a trip at our house.

 

So, I am leaning toward the 120 volt residential unit UNLESS I am missing something??  Feedback appreciated.