Norcold 1200 Observations

[swmorgan]

I'm sure most people are sick of reading about norcold issues.  I've found lots of helpful tips as I've read the forums trying to figure mine out so maybe this will help someone in the future. 

We're driving a 2005 Diplomat that we purchased used a couple years ago.  Fridge worked fine on the first handful of outings the first year.  Late last year and so far every single trip this year we've had issues, mostly the NO CO code when trying to start up the unit before a trip.  I've replaced the sensor that was part of a recall after finding the red light on and not being able to reset with a magnet.  A few trips ago I learned how to reset the no co by jumping a wire on the board to reset.  What we've ended up doing since mostly we're just going for a couple days somewhere is put a few bags of ice in the fridge so our food doesn't spoil on the drive and just assumed we'd have to buy more ice along our trip.  After 3 or 4 trips like this we've found that the ice cools the unit down on the drive and once we've plugged in at our destination the norcold works just fine....so it appears the issue we have is cooling down after sitting turned off.  We brought the rig home yesterday to prep for the holiday weekend trip up into montana.  I plugged in last night, filled the fridge full of several bags of ice, and went to bed.  This morning, nice and cold and no errors.  Maybe there's a fix for this out there or maybe not, but if all I have to do is add some ice to help things cool down before we leave, then be trouble free the rest of the trip, I'll be a happy camper.  Much easier and cheaper than replacing the fridge.  

[Jim McFarland]

I’m m so proud for you. Have a great holiday weekend/trip. Drive safe and God Bless. 
Hum McFarland 

[PeterSchweizer]

We have been doing the ice bags on start up for several years. We live in Phoenix  area n it is usually over 100 degrees OAT/ 120+ inside rig, when we load up to leave for parts up north.  Glad you figured it out. It's just a BIG cooler n if it's just a weekend trip ice is all u need.

****Just remember to put ice in a suitable container to catch the melted ice water.

[CAT Stephen]

@swmorgan,

 

The NO CO code is indicative of a low charge on your absorption cooling unit. The root cause is a "micro-pinhole" leak resulting from long term internal corrosion or a failing tubing weld.  As the OEM cooling units have no ports to permit a "weak solution" ammonium recharge for an absorption cooling unit, your only option is to replace the cooling unit to retain your existing refrigerator, or to pursue other options that I introduce later in this post.

There are new cooling unit solutions available for your existing Norcold 1200 that are vastly superior in quality and longevity compared to OEM cooling units:

- Ultra-Safe Helium based absorption cooling unit: https://jc-refrigeration.com/product/norcold-1200-helium-charged-gas-elect-unit-r-c-t/

- Standard Ammonium based absorption cooling unit (This unit is flammable just as your existing cooling unit is flammable: https://jc-refrigeration.com/product/norcold-1200-1201-gas-elect-cooling-unit-new/

- Double-Compressor R134a Danfloss based 12V ocooling unit: https://jc-refrigeration.com/product/norcold-1200-1201-hvac-12v-dc-replacement-unit/

- Double-Compressor R134a Danfloss based 120V cooling unit: https://jc-refrigeration.com/product/norcold-1200-1201-hvac-120v-ac-replacement-unit/

There are also other options available such as a residential refrigerator or a replacement 12VDC Refrigerator.  So, please post pictures of your existing Norcold 1200 install so that our forum members can provide precise guidance on these options because they are very dependent upon your camping style (Boondocking versus grid tied), your availability of solar power and generators, your budget (the residential option is very cost efficient), and your current installation.

[cbr046]

I put the final nail in my Norcold when I parked the RV on a sharp incline with picking up a pizza.  The biggest tip I can offer is keep it level (or near level).

I found a similar Dometic in Facebook Marketplace that was a take-out of a new camper.  The price was right and the guy had it powered up nice and cold in his shop.  Turns out it was winter with temps down to freezing and his "shop" was an unheated 10x12 metal storage shed, but it works fine as absorption fridges go.  Dodged a bullet on that one. 

The Dometic stays on all week as we keep it stocked.  If I start it from scratch it takes over a day to cool down - 2+ days if it's loaded.

But I really don't trust it, so I bought a portable "car" refrigerator for peace of mind - VEVOR Car Refrigerator, 12 Volt Car Refrigerator Fridge.  And it's really handy to have cold drinks up front with the driver!  I tapped into the electric seat with a cigarette plug for 12V power.  It works great!

- bob

 

[Tom Cherry]

14 minutes ago, cbr046 said:

I put the final nail in my Norcold when I parked the RV on a sharp incline with picking up a pizza.  The biggest tip I can offer is keep it level (or near level).

I found a similar Dometic in Facebook Marketplace that was a take-out of a new camper.  The price was right and the guy had it powered up nice and cold in his shop.  Turns out it was winter with temps down to freezing and his "shop" was an unheated 10x12 metal storage shed, but it works fine as absorption fridges go.  Dodged a bullet on that one. 

The Dometic stays on all week as we keep it stocked.  If I start it from scratch it takes over a day to cool down - 2+ days if it's loaded.

But I really don't trust it, so I bought a portable "car" refrigerator for peace of mind - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CB868H1F/ .  And it's really handy to have cold drinks up front with the driver!  I tapped into the electric seat with a cigarette plug for 12V power.  It works great!

- bob

 

OK….3 years with an almost new Norcold….before all the “OMG stuff came out) an then 8 years with a Dometic 1402 (new in our new motor home)…..and doing all sorts of tricks to make it “cold”….plus reading just about every post here since 2009 and being assigned to call Norcold by our founder and write a “report” for the members….here is my opinion….based on facts, experience and being a degreed Engineer….

The Norcold is a potential disaster waiting to happen.  Countless fires and also deaths. CAT nailed it.  There was a materials change, made in a Mexican Factory, without the knowledge or oversight (or that was the PARTY LINE). OK… I was the project manager and built a large factory in Mexico and moved and started up all the operations…..using US personnel to train. 

THEN, the first step is yo get rid of the US Supplier raw materials or subassemblies or anything purchased in the US and find a Mexican or an “Asian” supplier.  I have had to trouble shoot processing lines or machines and 90% of the time….it is a NEW Mexican or offshore part combined with some other items.

Norcold SUPPOSEDLY was not aware that a thinner wall thickness copper tubing was used and a different brazing (the Mexican factory quit doing it as trained). How much one believes or believes that I know…..is a personal decision.  Early on, when the first “FIX” or black box cameout, Norcold tech support told me thinner walled tubing and incorrect brazing…but the BOX made them “safe”.  We all know the REST of that saga.

https://www.happilyrv.com/norcold-refrigerator-recall-need-know/
 

Basically, an ALARM that is a ONE SHOT deal.  Overeat ONCE….shut down and make the unit INOPERABLE. Using magnets and other “tricks”….  I used to have to teach OSHA electrical….”the NEW OMG….we can’t do our job” total rewrite….to 30 year plus electricians who had been trained to do LIVE circuit testing and also LIVE repairs.  I finally got their attention.  Remember these folks are akin to “Fighter Pilots” (Think Maverick).  They have confidence and are “well informed” and there is NO ONE BETTER than them.  I flashed up a Rattle Snake slide….then an arm of a victim that got the FULL LOAD of Venom….it was gross and there was a depression in their arm like a sink hole.  MY Question…..anyone ever picked up a venomous viper or “played or handled it?”  Some would snicker….but in 10 plants…I actually had some.  I told the crew…..that is a Professional Snake Handler….who handles and milks venom.  HE KNEW WHAT TO DO. His luck ran out. Every time you do live testing without using the proper personal equipment or the approved technique….you have picked up a rattle snake and not got bitten….  WHEN is your luck gonna run out?  How bad will it be?

That SAME logic goes for ANY gas absorption refrigerator. BUT, we KNOW that the Norcold WILL fail (NOT IF) and there are more burned out RV’s in Salvage yards than there are…..finish that line yourself.

ONE of the “missions” or charter points for the new site as well as the old one.  Present FACTS.  Make sure posters KNOW the entire ot correct story.  If THEY choose to do something that puts their rig or their family as risk….then, we have TRIED…and they are still gonna keep picking up rattle snakes…

AS TO THE DOMETIC.  Mine was OK for maybe 3 years.  A friend and I kept experimenting.  We changed the Dometic temp sensor (on the cooling fins at the top left) out to a Norcold PN. That was 10 - 15 degrees LESS than the OEM Dometic.  The Norcold came on at say 115 and then shut off at 95. The Dometic snap disk was a 130/110.  Therefore the Dometic stayed cooler.  Dometic told me….YEP….that will work…but you’ll run down your batteries MORE QUICKLY.  

Next we added a Fantastic Fan “motor/blade” fan to the top vent and sucked out more heat so the unit ran cooler.  BUT, eventually, it was more of a hassle. DW had to stagger how much food or such from the grocery store that she put in.  Leave it open while rearranging ….it took its toll. We started packing the freezer with “ice” so that we had NO dead air spaces.  If we ate and didn’t replenish….we bought a bag of ice…

I fritted around with it for 2 years.  ENOUGH IS ENOUGH. Samsung was installed in 2017.  DW was NOT in favor of the “expenditure”….then a month later….WHY DID WE WAIT snd put up with the declining performance of the Dometic.  I used the Dometic crispers…..put a strip of white duct tape on each side on the bottom and a mating strip on the glass shelf.  We take  them out and fill them.  I got $200 for the interior parts on ebay…and never robbed the boards 

 

[jacwjames]

Our Norcold never did a good job, I used two remote temp monitors to track temperatures and if the temp in the refrigerator rose to a questionable level (which happened a lot) we moved freezer block from freezer to fridge to get by.  In 2017/8 I was living in our coach while building our house.  The fridge quite working one day and I found the black box had kicked it out.  I took a chance and used a magnet to reset, next day same thing but this time there was a yellow dust covering the bottom of the fridge outside.   I unplugged the fridge and never looked back.    Over the years I wish we would of kept track of how much food we threw away, I bet it would have been eye opening. 

In the back of my mind I knew the inevitable would happened and one day at Lowes I found a Samsung RF18 on clearance, $865 and I snapped it up and actually put it in the house while it was still under construction to use until we finished the two kitchen areas.  It then was pushed against a wall in the basement.

Then in 2019 we installed the Samsung in our 2002 Windsor, no small feat considering the height restrictions.  When we removed the Norcold we took the cooling unit off to get it out the door.  The cooling unit was poorly installed with a large gap between the metal plates that did the heat transfer, NO WONDER why it didn't cool.

But it is one of the best modifications to our coach I've done.  In 2021 when I was in ND the outside temp got to 105F, I was parked in full sun, would not put out awnings due to wind.  I struggled to keep the coach cool (that's another story) BUT the Samsung stayed cool dropping ice all day long.  Again, one of the best mod's I've done. 

[CAT Stephen]

@swmorgan,

 

Building further on the fire hazard that @Tom Cherry raised, if you elect to continue with a gas absorption refrigerator, NEVER buy an OEM cooling unit because they are a fire waiting to happen.  Case in point is that the #1 cause of RV total loss insurance claims in the RV insurance industry are RV ammonium based refrigerators fires.  Although the manufacturers added a "recall kit" that Tom referenced, the destruction when that device kicks in is complete then the absorption refrigerator cooling unit failure will occur within a few months to a few years later.

 

So, staying with an absorption refrigerator can be safe only under the following circumstances:

- ALWAYS buy and install an ARP Fridge Defender for ANY type of absorption refrigerator:

---- https://www.arprv.com/

---- I installed an ARP Fridge Defender on my ~3 year old OEM cooling unit.  I was not aware that the previous owner ran it out of level before I installed the ARP Fridge Defender .  The cooling unit failed 1.5 years after my installation.  I was sleeping alone in 2019 in my RV while on a business trip and the ammonium started to leak out of the tubing due to a corrosion failure.  The leak resulted in a sudden rise of the boiler temperature resulting in the ARP Fridge Defender shutting down my coolant unit while I was sleeping in the RV.  With just the recall kit installed, that kit would have allowed the leak to fester much long which may have resulted in a fire.

---- The ARP Fridge Defender device monitors your absorption unit boiler so that the boiler never exceeds maximum boiler temperature thus preserving the cooling unit from internal corrosion and failure. (More on how that happens below)

---- All absorption refrigerator fires are caused by compromised refrigerant tubing as Tom referenced

----- When an RV absorption refrigerator is used out of level ONE TIME without an ARP Fridge Defender, the boiler exceeds maximum operating boiler temperature that results in the destruction of the rust preventative solution in the cooling unit resulting in eventual destruction and failure of the cooling unit tubing via corrosion.  The highly flammable ammonium then leaks out of the corroded tubing and hits your refrigerator electric heating coils (120VAC) or your open propane flame then a raging fire consumes your RV.

---- All current absorption refrigerators have the recall kit that Tom mentioned.  The recall kit shuts down the boiler at a much higher temperature which exceeds the maximum operating boiler temperature. So, by the time the recall kit has kicked in, it is too late as the rust preventative has been destroyed and it is now just a matter of time before the tubing corrodes through and starts a fire.

- For an extra measure of safety, only buy a helium based absorption cooling unit if you elect to stay with your current absorption refrigerator.  The helium based units are slightly less efficient, but are completely non-flammable.  I recommend that you still purchase and install the ARP Fridge Defender on a helium unit so that you get the best service life as helium units are subject to the same tubing corrosion as the ammonium based units.  But helium cooling unit failures don't ever result in fires.

[BennieH]

Not wanting to modify the coach (remove furnace) to put in a residential unit, we had the Amish 110volt cooling unit installed. Absolutely wonderful! They are now building a complete replacement in Stainless. I would look at those.

[swmorgan]

8 hours ago, BennieH said:

Not wanting to modify the coach (remove furnace) to put in a residential unit, we had the Amish 110volt cooling unit installed. Absolutely wonderful! They are now building a complete replacement in Stainless. I would look at those.

I'll have to look into those.  Thanks for the tip.