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2005 Diplomat. New DP (to us) Owner. First time towing a crew cab. WONDERFUL.


swmorgan

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Yesterday was our first trip with this rv and truck in tow.  I previously owned a national rv gasser that I pulled an Acura mdx behind and knew the next rv would have to be a diesel.  That national on the hills was a killer.  

Yesterday we drove salt lake city to Dillon montana with my crew cab silverado in tow and had a great experience.   No problem holding 65 mph the whole trip.  Hardly even felt the thing back there.  I'm loving my first diesel experience

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  • Tom Cherry changed the title to 2005 Diplomat. New DP (to us) Owner. First time towing a crew cab. WONDERFUL.

The ride home was just as smooth.  Camping world here in salt lake city did a great job setting everything up for us.  I can have the truck hooked up and ready to roll in 15 minutes or less.  Loving the DP life!

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How were your engine temps on the big climbs?  I have not picked a Toad yet, and am considering a pickup. 

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On 8/31/2024 at 10:19 AM, swmorgan said:

Yesterday was our first trip with this rv and truck in tow.  I previously owned a national rv gasser that I pulled an Acura mdx behind and knew the next rv would have to be a diesel.  That national on the hills was a killer.  

Yesterday we drove salt lake city to Dillon montana with my crew cab silverado in tow and had a great experience.   No problem holding 65 mph the whole trip.  Hardly even felt the thing back there.  I'm loving my first diesel experience

Keep the updates coming! I'm currently considering a full-size Chevy or GMC Toad. What model are you pulling? What towbar system? 

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I have been towing a 2003 GMC 2500 4x4 for over five years. I can top the grapevine on I -5 south of Bakersfield CA at 45-55 depending on whether I downshift. Almost all 18-wheelers grind down to less than 45mph.  I have had no issues with overheating even in the summer heat.

I commonly carry 1/2 bed full of firewood on the way to Quartzsite with little apparent difference.
 

My tow bar is a Roadmaster Sterling and the braking system is AirForce1. 

My friend Paul has the same coach as mine and he tows a 2005 Chevy K2500 diesel PU, sometimes with a Honda Goldwing on a hydraulic lift in the bed. When we’ve traveled together with this configuration, he has had little problem keeping up with me. 

BTW, I get around 10-11 mpg on my 5,300# truck and 7.5-8 on my 33,000# GVW coach towing the truck (but not uphill!).

This is counter-intuitive for sure. These engines are amazing. 

You should have no problem towing whatever you want.

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Only thing I might add.  GM (Chevy and GMC) redesigned the truck chassis and driveline in 2014..  Then, in 2015, they did likewise with the Yukon and Tahoe…as well as.the Caddy Escalade….but Caddy only had one engine that the DL would flat tow.

The PUT flat tow upgrade has “not ready” for Prime Time.  Got LOTS of unfavorable press and it took GM at least “1 or 2” software revisions to make it work and be reliable.  THEN, they also had to UPDATE the instructions and the “steps” to make it work.  

I purchased a 2014 Yukon to get the older (2007 - 2014) driveline.  It works FLAWLESSLY….never a bobble.  I have about 90K on my Toads….a 98 Explorer, a 08 Hummer H3 (GM goofed and had to replace the servo or stepper motors that do the shifting)…but it was then fine.  I have maybe 35K on the Yukon.

In the new drivelines, you MUST disconnect or that was what the revised set of instructions said, the Battery.  It went BACK to a Steering wheel lock and also uses “electric” and not Hydraulic steering.  There was a concern about a backfeed from the MH’s tail lights into the CanBuss (may not be the official name). If you got 12 VDC into the vehicle’s electrical system….the steering wheel lock could engage….and if there was “power” to the power steering motor, the default was to Center the  Wheels…..NOT GOOD.

I have seen many that are towing the 2014 PUT and the 2015 SUV.  BUT, a well known Indy Racing team owner’s almost NEW fully decked Caddy….DID BURST into flames….behind his multimillion Prevost.  Fortunately the driver got it disconnected and drove the bus to safety before things really heated up.

Just passing this along.  It was posted on the old Yahoo site and many had experienced the frustration and upgrades and finally perfection of flat towing.

The solution, and I think E-Trailer mentioned this….install a battery cut off switch.  Some opted for one on Neg and one on Pos.  Can’t recall which GM said to DISCONNECT …. 

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I'm looking to purchase a tow vehicle as well, can anyone give me a good jeep option.

Coach is a 2005 HR Imperial. PS need a good tow package as well.

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Roadmaster has been the choice.  Many experienced mwmbers dating back into the late 90.  The baseplates usually have more fasteners and the fastener sizes (diameter) are larger.  I did a head to head three times with the “other” brand.  Hands down my choice.  Like myself, we have had many graduate engineers some to the same conclusion.

Roadmaster has good basic and reliable and long lasting tow bars.  I put 60K on a Falcon 2….and had the “rebuild” kit installed maybe 50K. It was, per the Hitch Shop supervisor of a large dealership…..same as new.

ALWAYS torque, with a torque wrench the fasteners and liberally use Loctite RED.  Most of us drill out the “hitch pin” hole maybe 1/16” and use Master Padlocks.

Can’t go wrong.  I only upgraded to the Sterling as my Yukon was in the high 5,000’s and the Falcon 2 was good for 6,000.  Never a worry…

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Moderator EDIT to correct typo.

I’ve been towing a 2916  2016 Sierra 2500 4x4 crew cab since new without any issues. Yes the battery needs to be disconnected and the key left on so the steering wheel doesn’t lock. I use a NSA Hercules tow bar due to its 12,000 lb rating and integrated braking setup. 
the Hercules proved its worth when the DW once turned the key off when trying to help me hook up. Thankfully it was raining as I pulled the truck 250 miles before checking it at a stop to find the wheel locked. Tires were about due for a change but that incident sealed it

Edited by Tom Cherry
Corrected the Sierra MY
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Ram towing is easy as well. I really don't know it's back there unless we're on a steep grade or I put the bike in the bed, even with my ISB 5.9.

20240806_095104.jpg

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1 hour ago, Agpopp said:

Ram towing is easy as well. I really don't know it's back there unless we're on a steep grade or I put the bike in the bed, even with my ISB 5.9.

20240806_095104.jpg

Nice! That's my plan as well ... P/U with my BMW 1200 in the bed. 

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1 minute ago, FlynPirate said:

Nice! That's my plan as well ... P/U with my BMW 1200 in the bed. 

Please post a video of getting the BMW 1200 into the Dynasty and onto the Comfortaire Bed.  Thanks.

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On 9/5/2024 at 3:40 PM, 3pedal said:

How were your engine temps on the big climbs?  I have not picked a Toad yet, and am considering a pickup. 

No heating problems at all.  Just did another weekend trip down to central utah to ride ATV's with a group of friends.  Took the truck so at least one of us would have transportation around town.  Easy tow down and back, no heating problems.  2022 silverado crew cab short bed

On 9/6/2024 at 6:46 AM, FlynPirate said:

Keep the updates coming! I'm currently considering a full-size Chevy or GMC Toad. What model are you pulling? What towbar system? 

Hi pirate!  I bought a 2022 silverado z71 crew cab short bed.  Just shy of 7k lbs if I remember right.  Blue ox tow bar and rvi breaking system.  The cool thing about the truck is the tow bar mounts are super easy....remove the gm factor tow hooks on the front and replace with the ones matching the tow bar.  Looks like a super easy install although I paid to have it done.  Cost me about 6 grand for everything at camping world

On 9/6/2024 at 12:43 PM, Tom Cherry said:

Only thing I might add.  GM (Chevy and GMC) redesigned the truck chassis and driveline in 2014..  Then, in 2015, they did likewise with the Yukon and Tahoe…as well as.the Caddy Escalade….but Caddy only had one engine that the DL would flat tow.

The PUT flat tow upgrade has “not ready” for Prime Time.  Got LOTS of unfavorable press and it took GM at least “1 or 2” software revisions to make it work and be reliable.  THEN, they also had to UPDATE the instructions and the “steps” to make it work.  

I purchased a 2014 Yukon to get the older (2007 - 2014) driveline.  It works FLAWLESSLY….never a bobble.  I have about 90K on my Toads….a 98 Explorer, a 08 Hummer H3 (GM goofed and had to replace the servo or stepper motors that do the shifting)…but it was then fine.  I have maybe 35K on the Yukon.

In the new drivelines, you MUST disconnect or that was what the revised set of instructions said, the Battery.  It went BACK to a Steering wheel lock and also uses “electric” and not Hydraulic steering.  There was a concern about a backfeed from the MH’s tail lights into the CanBuss (may not be the official name). If you got 12 VDC into the vehicle’s electrical system….the steering wheel lock could engage….and if there was “power” to the power steering motor, the default was to Center the  Wheels…..NOT GOOD.

I have seen many that are towing the 2014 PUT and the 2015 SUV.  BUT, a well known Indy Racing team owner’s almost NEW fully decked Caddy….DID BURST into flames….behind his multimillion Prevost.  Fortunately the driver got it disconnected and drove the bus to safety before things really heated up.

Just passing this along.  It was posted on the old Yahoo site and many had experienced the frustration and upgrades and finally perfection of flat towing.

The solution, and I think E-Trailer mentioned this….install a battery cut off switch.  Some opted for one on Neg and one on Pos.  Can’t recall which GM said to DISCONNECT …. 

Good point on the battery.  Camping world told me that was an issue with these trucks.  Mines a 2022 silverado.  They installed a battery cut off switch in the dash...very clean install...you hardly notice it.  After putting the truck in neutral and setting up the transfer case, one push of the button shuts all power down.  Push the button again when we arrive at our destination and power is restored and you can adjust everything so you can drive again.  Pretty simple.  I can hook up and be ready to tow in probably 15 minutes

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I’m pulling my 2019 Ram 1500 with my 2004 Monaco Camelot  it now has 11k miles after spending July on the road California to Montana down to Colorado and back .  
7.4 mpg average and no problems towing. 
 

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2 hours ago, Jwalt5000 said:

I’m pulling my 2019 Ram 1500 with my 2004 Monaco Camelot  it now has 11k miles after spending July on the road California to Montana down to Colorado and back .  
7.4 mpg average and no problems towing. 
 

I've never checked my milage....not sure that I want to know

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I have flat towed a 2015 GMC Yukon 7000 miles, and it has worked well for me.  I made a laminated card for the set-up sequence (changed the wording and language.)  I installed a complete roadmaster kit for the lights and installed a remote battery disconnect.  I always make sure I can roll it and check the steering is unlocked before heading out.    It was a lot of work to do a complete install of everything needed on my Yukon.  If I change toads someday I will for sure look into what I takes to set up a specific vehicle. I use the RM nighthawk and RM Brake master set up. 

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32 minutes ago, rustykramermetalfab said:

I have flat towed a 2015 GMC Yukon 7000 miles, and it has worked well for me.  I made a laminated card for the set-up sequence (changed the wording and language.)  I installed a complete roadmaster kit for the lights and installed a remote battery disconnect.  I always make sure I can roll it and check the steering is unlocked before heading out.    It was a lot of work to do a complete install of everything needed on my Yukon.  If I change toads someday I will for sure look into what I takes to set up a specific vehicle. I use the RM nighthawk and RM Brake master set up. 

We aren’t as sophisticated as yours….as in we have the older….twist one knob…..wait.  But, even though the ABS and STABILTRACK shows OFF in the DIC.  I STILL have DW START the Engine.  Put in D and get engine up to 1,500.  Shift into Neutral….then R….rev up.  THEN….let Engine idle.  TURN OFF.  You do NOT want to hear the CRUNCH if you go from N to P….trust me.  Then turn ignition OFF…and pull Key.

DW operates the shifter and key….since she has driven up.  I do the hookup and double check.  She has the window down….and I “issue” the commands.  KEY ON.  SHIFT TO NEUTRAL.  Then I reach in and turn and hold the 4WD Knob to Neutral and HOLD until lights flash….the DIC says OFF.  Then do the engine ON and test D and R to verify NEUTRAL is truly NEUTRAL.

I CAN see the need on the newer system for a “cheat sheet”….and also GLAD that GM’s masserations…..finally got it right.

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