saflyer Posted August 31 Share Posted August 31 2005 HR Ambassador Does anyone know who the manufacturer is for my slides? Is it Lippert? Can’t find the answer in the manual. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr4Film Posted August 31 Share Posted August 31 The three sides in my previous 02 Windsor are all made by Power Gear who was since acquired by Lippert. As for the slides in my 06 Windsor, I haven't taken the time to research what brand they are or who manufactured them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted August 31 Share Posted August 31 Only way to really know it to find a label on the slide motor/mechanism. Seems like Monaco used what was available at the time. My front LR slide is a Power Gear, my BR slide is a Dewald. Lippert bought the rights to both of them. You can still get parts for the Power Gear but the Dewald is pretty much obsolete. I was having concerns on my BR slide mechanism, found it was a DeWald and contacted Lippert. They said that the do not support the slide an more, all parts are out of production. I did a pretty thorough search for my BR slide motor and gear reducer and came up blank. Luckily turned out mine was OK, I did take the time to lube real good and make sure all the bolts were tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted August 31 Share Posted August 31 2 hours ago, saflyer said: 2005 HR Ambassador Does anyone know who the manufacturer is for my slides? Is it Lippert? Can’t find the answer in the manual. Thanks First….identify….which slides are electric and which are hydraulic. Lippert is probably the vendor….UNLESS….you have the OUTSIDE CABLE type on the Bedroom wardrobe slide, that is a BAL ACUSLIDE (google it). HWH was too upscale ($$$) and only used on the Dynasty….and that was in recent years. Find the SLIDE contriller. That will be a clue. Some of your year were NOT a Lippert SLIDE controller….but a different board and that board is no longer available The solution was to install individual controllers…..as one section of the board would die. Exactly WHAT is the ISSUE and why do you need to know…..that will help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr4Film Posted August 31 Share Posted August 31 Jim is correct, my bedroom electric slide is also a Dewald Slide-out. Memory lapse. The two slides in the salon area, Flush Floor Roadside Slide and the Flat Kitchen Slide are both Power Gear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saflyer Posted August 31 Author Share Posted August 31 3 hours ago, Tom Cherry said: First….identify….which slides are electric and which are hydraulic. Lippert is probably the vendor….UNLESS….you have the OUTSIDE CABLE type on the Bedroom wardrobe slide, that is a BAL ACUSLIDE (google it). HWH was too upscale ($$$) and only used on the Dynasty….and that was in recent years. Find the SLIDE contriller. That will be a clue. Some of your year were NOT a Lippert SLIDE controller….but a different board and that board is no longer available The solution was to install individual controllers…..as one section of the board would die. Exactly WHAT is the ISSUE and why do you need to know…..that will help. I’ve had trouble with the passenger side living area slide since we bought the coach used about 12 years ago. It extends fine but retraction is usually but not always a problem. It will start in then stop after 1-2 inches. At that point we have to push the slide while holding the button. After it moves another inch or so it finishes retracting on its own. Occasionally plugging into shore power or starting the generator produces a successful retraction. Once or twice extending the right rear leveling leg has made for a successful retraction. However I don’t have a feel for the amount of lifting of the right rear that does the trick. A couple of years after getting the coach the slide motor was replaced. Seemed like a good idea but it didn’t help. If I knew the manufacturer of the mechanism I might take it to their service location or one with factory trained personnel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted August 31 Share Posted August 31 15 minutes ago, saflyer said: I’ve had trouble with the passenger side living area slide since we bought the coach used about 12 years ago. It extends fine but retraction is usually but not always a problem. It will start in then stop after 1-2 inches. At that point we have to push the slide while holding the button. After it moves another inch or so it finishes retracting on its own. Occasionally plugging into shore power or starting the generator produces a successful retraction. Once or twice extending the right rear leveling leg has made for a successful retraction. However I don’t have a feel for the amount of lifting of the right rear that does the trick. A couple of years after getting the coach the slide motor was replaced. Seemed like a good idea but it didn’t help. If I knew the manufacturer of the mechanism I might take it to their service location or one with factory trained personnel. WHOA….what you just described is PROBABLY a high resistance connection. Without all the explanations and also seeing the circuits….you have either a BAD Motor (assuming it is electric) or a bad control board or a bad relay. When you have a high resistance connection…and you lose a volt or two….to the motor. It then tries to run….but it has to draw MORE amps to meet the “wattage” or the power needed. On some systems, there is a SLIDE control board…and there is a EXTEND and also a RETRACT relay. Time to start with prints. Some of the more “exotic” slide control boards have relays on the printed circuit board(s) I would start by finding how power is delivered to the motor. There are two or three types of motors. Some have reversing relays….so the motor just runs backwards and forwards. OTHERS have two sets of windings. So…extend goes to one set….retract to the other. Then…there is a 3 WIRE motor. One is common….tricky little suckers. Then one is extend and the other wire is retract. BUT….having to PUSH…and “it works better” on AC or Genny”….a classic case of a voltage issue. The old trick. Turn OFF both disconnects. Hook up a jumper between the positives in house and chassis. Then turn back on disconnects. If that slide runs great in each direction and no pushing….you have a VOLTAGE issue and the controller is NOT getting a full 12VDC. The Cranking battery has a bunch. I KNOW. I have a bad house switch…..took me forever to find it. But it and a high resistance connection burned up my hydraulic motor . I put in a selector switch….chassis or house…for the pump. I have been running on chassis for 2 years….then last fall, I found the bad house switch….gonna replace it. Jumpering will tell you a LOT….easy to do… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saflyer Posted September 1 Author Share Posted September 1 (edited) 20 hours ago, Tom Cherry said: WHOA….what you just described is PROBABLY a high resistance connection. Without all the explanations and also seeing the circuits….you have either a BAD Motor (assuming it is electric) or a bad control board or a bad relay. When you have a high resistance connection…and you lose a volt or two….to the motor. It then tries to run….but it has to draw MORE amps to meet the “wattage” or the power needed. On some systems, there is a SLIDE control board…and there is a EXTEND and also a RETRACT relay. Time to start with prints. Some of the more “exotic” slide control boards have relays on the printed circuit board(s) I would start by finding how power is delivered to the motor. There are two or three types of motors. Some have reversing relays….so the motor just runs backwards and forwards. OTHERS have two sets of windings. So…extend goes to one set….retract to the other. Then…there is a 3 WIRE motor. One is common….tricky little suckers. Then one is extend and the other wire is retract. BUT….having to PUSH…and “it works better” on AC or Genny”….a classic case of a voltage issue. The old trick. Turn OFF both disconnects. Hook up a jumper between the positives in house and chassis. Then turn back on disconnects. If that slide runs great in each direction and no pushing….you have a VOLTAGE issue and the controller is NOT getting a full 12VDC. The Cranking battery has a bunch. I KNOW. I have a bad house switch…..took me forever to find it. But it and a high resistance connection burned up my hydraulic motor . I put in a selector switch….chassis or house…for the pump. I have been running on chassis for 2 years….then last fall, I found the bad house switch….gonna replace it. Jumpering will tell you a LOT….easy to do… Tom, you’ve probably come through again. However I don’t know much about anything after “WHOA”. Just kidding, I understand a little. I will, however, copy this to a couple of shops and query if they have a tech with a solid understanding. Now I’m wondering about this in relation to the slide sometimes operating when on shore power or generator but not always. I have lithium house batteries. The bulk charging voltage is set to 14.6v and float is 13.3v. Now could it be the slide works properly when the charger is in bulk mode with the extra voltage? I don’t know as I just thought of this scenario. Will have to wait for the opportunity to test this theory. I’ll try jumping the chassis batteries to the house this week and will report back. Edited September 1 by saflyer Typing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul J A Posted September 2 Share Posted September 2 Do you mean the actual slide "box"/ Or the various power systems for Extending and retracting the slide?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saflyer Posted September 10 Author Share Posted September 10 Does this help identify the slide manufacturer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted September 10 Share Posted September 10 I did a bunch of searching and none of the sources for this motor list the manufacturer of the slide itself. There are numerous companies that offer this motor with a wide range of prices. Lippert does have this slide out motor, you might give them a call and they might be able to help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted September 10 Share Posted September 10 On 9/1/2024 at 9:39 AM, saflyer said: Tom, you’ve probably come through again. However I don’t know much about anything after “WHOA”. Just kidding, I understand a little. I will, however, copy this to a couple of shops and query if they have a tech with a solid understanding. Now I’m wondering about this in relation to the slide sometimes operating when on shore power or generator but not always. I have lithium house batteries. The bulk charging voltage is set to 14.6v and float is 13.3v. Now could it be the slide works properly when the charger is in bulk mode with the extra voltage? I don’t know as I just thought of this scenario. Will have to wait for the opportunity to test this theory. I’ll try jumping the chassis batteries to the house this week and will report back. Sorry I speak in tongues.....working on that. Bottom LINE. When there is a difference in the rate of travel when on Batteries or SHORE or GENNY Running.....only ONE THING. The Batteries.....AIN'T CUTTING IT. That is why you need to JUMPER. The Jumper will allow you to use the Chassis Battery also. RUN THE TEST THREE WAYS. FIRST....NO Genny or NO Shore.....HOUSE only. Note or try to time or get a feel for how long it takes to go IN as well as OUT. Second... On Genny or SHORE. Repeat above. Really NEED a "time value....hopefully not to the nearest TENTH of a second... LOL. Third... JUMPERED. It that puppy moves like greased lightning...or substantially faster. SOMETHING IS A MISS in the Lithiums or the HOUSE electrical system. It MAY be a bad CONNECTION.....and that would be in the HOUSE wiring. OR....it may be FUNKY (low capacity...as in DRAINED DOWN) batteries.... BUT...when you supply the FULL cranking amps of the Chassis....that will be MORE than enough to offset the "Problem" ODDS ARE.....and this is not good news....your have issues. NOW.....that presents a BIG PROBLEM. The ONLY WAY TO FIND OUT is to DRAIN and TEST and then TEST AGAIN the Lithiums. You can NOT carry them, or an ABM or a GEL or a Flooded to a shop and say.. HEY....is this GOOD. That only works for CRANKING batteries. As Yoda might say... "Luke... Battery 101 must you read....therein lies the KNOWLEDGE of the Force.....seek it out....." You have to DRAIN and then recharge the batteries......THEN you measure the VOLTAGE. NEXT UP....you have to calculate the DRAIN RATE and then drain them for X hours at Y Amps. THEN....you stop....unhook.....let them recover (all batteries, after the load is removed...will POP BACK or Recover.... THEN...measure the Voltage. NOW....pay attention to the math and the amps or watts of draw. For EXAMPLE... If you use a 450 Watt Quartz halogen light (Lowes and all sell them).....if the voltage is 120 VAC....then the current draw is 450 W divided by 120 or 3.75 AC AMPS. NOW....if you are running that off the INVERTER....there is the SAME WATTAGE or ENERGY Consumption. SO....if the Batteries are averaging say 12.5 VDC. 450 divided by 12.5 = 36 DC AMPS. NOW....if you drain the battery for 3 hours.....that is 36 AMP times 3 Hours or 108 AMP HOURS. If you have a 400 Amp Hour bank (that would be FOUR (4) batteries times the Amp Hour Rating...and 100 is TYPICAL for a LOT of 12 VDC Lithiums (assuming you have FOUR 12 VDC in Parallel.....you have 4 X 100 = 400. NOW....with Lithiums....you CAN drain them down to 20%....that is a "SALES POINT"....but for us.....we use 50%. SO...if you have 400 AMP HOURS...and drain down 108 AMP HRS...that is 108 divided by 400 or 27%. SO, if you have GOOD 100% SOC (they charge back up to the FULL...as NEW voltage)...then you have drained them 27%...or they are at a 73% SOC (after you drain them for the 3 hours). If you look at the chart.....then the voltage for 70% should be CLOSE to what they are....they should be a few hundredths HIGHER....you can, if you understand interpolation, calculate that.... Take the 80% VDC and subtract the 70% VDC. Divide that by 10... Then Multiply by 3. ADD that value to the 70% VDC. That is the PRECISE or exact voltage that the Lithiums should be....assuming they are still capable of getting 100% Charge. The math and the physics are NOT complicated. It is basic laws of electricity since Galva invented the Wet Cell. NOW....if you don't get the right voltage....then....the batteries are either defective or they have been "improperly charged". UNFORTUNATELY.....this is the case most of the time....as the "inverters" are NOT MATED nor doing the proper charging....and then the cells are damaged. I HOPE NOT....but be aware that is does and has happened.....many times....that is what some folks were "reluctant to purchase replacement Lithiums....". Sort of like only 50% would, according to a national survey....buy an EV again... It happens... GOOD LUCK... There will be a chart on the Lithium manufacturer's web page...probably instructions. You have to know HOW MUCH Charge they will accept. As the cells get weaker....they will not charge back up to the original VDC Value.... THEN....you drain them for a specified and calculated time....and measure....after they recover. That tells you what percentage you took out. If I read correctly....they do NOT have the capacity that they need... OR there may be a high resistance connection. Either way.... YOU GOTTA FIND IT....and the FIRST SUSPECT....ask any RV TECH....is the BATTERIES....COUNT ON THAT.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saflyer Posted September 11 Author Share Posted September 11 15 hours ago, Tom Cherry said: Sorry I speak in tongues.....working on that. Bottom LINE. When there is a difference in the rate of travel when on Batteries or SHORE or GENNY Running.....only ONE THING. The Batteries.....AIN'T CUTTING IT. That is why you need to JUMPER. The Jumper will allow you to use the Chassis Battery also. RUN THE TEST THREE WAYS. FIRST....NO Genny or NO Shore.....HOUSE only. Note or try to time or get a feel for how long it takes to go IN as well as OUT. Second... On Genny or SHORE. Repeat above. Really NEED a "time value....hopefully not to the nearest TENTH of a second... LOL. Third... JUMPERED. It that puppy moves like greased lightning...or substantially faster. SOMETHING IS A MISS in the Lithiums or the HOUSE electrical system. It MAY be a bad CONNECTION.....and that would be in the HOUSE wiring. OR....it may be FUNKY (low capacity...as in DRAINED DOWN) batteries.... BUT...when you supply the FULL cranking amps of the Chassis....that will be MORE than enough to offset the "Problem" ODDS ARE.....and this is not good news....your have issues. NOW.....that presents a BIG PROBLEM. The ONLY WAY TO FIND OUT is to DRAIN and TEST and then TEST AGAIN the Lithiums. You can NOT carry them, or an ABM or a GEL or a Flooded to a shop and say.. HEY....is this GOOD. That only works for CRANKING batteries. As Yoda might say... "Luke... Battery 101 must you read....therein lies the KNOWLEDGE of the Force.....seek it out....." You have to DRAIN and then recharge the batteries......THEN you measure the VOLTAGE. NEXT UP....you have to calculate the DRAIN RATE and then drain them for X hours at Y Amps. THEN....you stop....unhook.....let them recover (all batteries, after the load is removed...will POP BACK or Recover.... THEN...measure the Voltage. NOW....pay attention to the math and the amps or watts of draw. For EXAMPLE... If you use a 450 Watt Quartz halogen light (Lowes and all sell them).....if the voltage is 120 VAC....then the current draw is 450 W divided by 120 or 3.75 AC AMPS. NOW....if you are running that off the INVERTER....there is the SAME WATTAGE or ENERGY Consumption. SO....if the Batteries are averaging say 12.5 VDC. 450 divided by 12.5 = 36 DC AMPS. NOW....if you drain the battery for 3 hours.....that is 36 AMP times 3 Hours or 108 AMP HOURS. If you have a 400 Amp Hour bank (that would be FOUR (4) batteries times the Amp Hour Rating...and 100 is TYPICAL for a LOT of 12 VDC Lithiums (assuming you have FOUR 12 VDC in Parallel.....you have 4 X 100 = 400. NOW....with Lithiums....you CAN drain them down to 20%....that is a "SALES POINT"....but for us.....we use 50%. SO...if you have 400 AMP HOURS...and drain down 108 AMP HRS...that is 108 divided by 400 or 27%. SO, if you have GOOD 100% SOC (they charge back up to the FULL...as NEW voltage)...then you have drained them 27%...or they are at a 73% SOC (after you drain them for the 3 hours). If you look at the chart.....then the voltage for 70% should be CLOSE to what they are....they should be a few hundredths HIGHER....you can, if you understand interpolation, calculate that.... Take the 80% VDC and subtract the 70% VDC. Divide that by 10... Then Multiply by 3. ADD that value to the 70% VDC. That is the PRECISE or exact voltage that the Lithiums should be....assuming they are still capable of getting 100% Charge. The math and the physics are NOT complicated. It is basic laws of electricity since Galva invented the Wet Cell. NOW....if you don't get the right voltage....then....the batteries are either defective or they have been "improperly charged". UNFORTUNATELY.....this is the case most of the time....as the "inverters" are NOT MATED nor doing the proper charging....and then the cells are damaged. I HOPE NOT....but be aware that is does and has happened.....many times....that is what some folks were "reluctant to purchase replacement Lithiums....". Sort of like only 50% would, according to a national survey....buy an EV again... It happens... GOOD LUCK... There will be a chart on the Lithium manufacturer's web page...probably instructions. You have to know HOW MUCH Charge they will accept. As the cells get weaker....they will not charge back up to the original VDC Value.... THEN....you drain them for a specified and calculated time....and measure....after they recover. That tells you what percentage you took out. If I read correctly....they do NOT have the capacity that they need... OR there may be a high resistance connection. Either way.... YOU GOTTA FIND IT....and the FIRST SUSPECT....ask any RV TECH....is the BATTERIES....COUNT ON THAT.... WHEW! That’s a lot to deal with but I’ll give it the old college try. You sure put a lot into your responses and I really appreciate that. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul J A Posted September 11 Share Posted September 11 (edited) On 8/31/2024 at 7:14 PM, Tom Cherry said: WHOA….what you just described is PROBABLY a high resistance connection. Without all the explanations and also seeing the circuits….you have either a BAD Motor (assuming it is electric) or a bad control board or a bad relay. When you have a high resistance connection…and you lose a volt or two….to the motor. It then tries to run….but it has to draw MORE amps to meet the “wattage” or the power needed. On some systems, there is a SLIDE control board…and there is a EXTEND and also a RETRACT relay. Time to start with prints. Some of the more “exotic” slide control boards have relays on the printed circuit board(s) I would start by finding how power is delivered to the motor. There are two or three types of motors. Some have reversing relays….so the motor just runs backwards and forwards. OTHERS have two sets of windings. So…extend goes to one set….retract to the other. Then…there is a 3 WIRE motor. One is common….tricky little suckers. Then one is extend and the other wire is retract. BUT….having to PUSH…and “it works better” on AC or Genny”….a classic case of a voltage issue. The old trick. Turn OFF both disconnects. Hook up a jumper between the positives in house and chassis. Then turn back on disconnects. If that slide runs great in each direction and no pushing….you have a VOLTAGE issue and the controller is NOT getting a full 12VDC. The Cranking battery has a bunch. I KNOW. I have a bad house switch…..took me forever to find it. But it and a high resistance connection burned up my hydraulic motor . I put in a selector switch….chassis or house…for the pump. I have been running on chassis for 2 years….then last fall, I found the bad house switch….gonna replace it. Jumpering will tell you a LOT….easy to do… Should the Post subject be changed to Slide Extend and Retract Mechanism?? Moderator comment DID & DONE Thanks. Edited September 11 by Tom Cherry Changed title to reflect overall issues Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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