OK....CONFESSIONS of a QUICK Pressure Pro TPMS Install....and NOW...it is CORRECT. WOW....What a difference!

[Tom Cherry]

First....let me say that I have been a Pressure Pro user since 2010.  That was the MOST purchased brand....OK...there was ONE OTHER...and it was a KNOCK OFF and actually used the Pressure Pro Manual copy and there was a court case...and Pressure Pro.  THERE was not much back then.  The ULTIMATE...as I hope MOST KNOW....was when Monaco was putting in the Smart Tire system.  That is a TRANDUCER mounted on a band....that goes INSIDE the tire...  It works like the Automotive Systems.  Unfortunately Smart Tire got bought out and the new owner stopped making them or went COMMERCIAL.  The Smart Tire system was the GOLD Standard used by all the major tire companies for experimental and monitoring work. It displayed the ACTUAL Pressure...which is what a TPMS external senor will do. BUT, it also measured the INTERNAL air temperature....and THAT IS THE CRITICAL factor.  Typically, if your tires get up to 175 dF, then that the WORRY POINT.  Each manufacture has a "DIFFERENT" temperature...but around 180 dF....the sidewalls and tread are subject to SEPARATION....or BLOW OUT.  The alarms are set based on a complex formula....actually contained in the Smart Tire manual.  I studied that...and then the COST ruled....so I bought a Pressure Pro.  Some of our founders actually did beta testing.  Later on, I also did and worked with PP.  

OK.... Circa June 15, I was one of the original users of their PULSE system.  David Pratt also purchased one.  We found out a LOT...and we actually provided feedback to Pressure Pro.  I can't remember what David did...but I THINK he had an experimental DiPole antenna.  I opted for the EXTERNAL Antenna on a piece of Coax.  That was what the Commercial (Bus and OTR) rigs were running.  THE OLD Pressure Pro had a single antenna on the monitor....and I had a REPEATER (NOW FOR SALE) in the bath room. As the batteries start to decline...then the signals on the TOAD are week.  The repeater worked like a champ.  SO, I ordered one and sold my original system on eBay.

I was IN A HURRY and sort of "HALF WAY" listened...   MY DW says I RARELY, seriously, take the easy way out... BUT I DID.

The IDEAL (look at the Pressure Pro YouTube video 

THIS explained it.  What I did was sort of UNCONVENTIONAL.  I put the ORIGINAL or Older Technology sensors on the Toad....so my Repeater "read them" and transmitted a signal that the external antenna...it was STRONG.  It worked.

OK...  I decided to update (after the batteries....maybe 7 years old) died in the TOAD's sensors.  I KNEW that there was NO REPEATER for the NEW Sensors....as with an PROPERLY MOUNTED antenna....non was needed.

THEREIN....the ISSUE.  OK....I just mounted mine behind the FRONT Axle.  THAT was GREAT for the MH and the NEW sensors...but I did NOT (Correctly) think that the NEW sensors on the TOAD would transmit....for the FULL and useful battery life.

Talked to Pressure Pro.  Kamryn was great.  She sent the video and we both KNEW the technical side.

NOTHING ELSE TO DO.  MOVE THE SUCKER.....NOW, that means....you GOTTA RUN THE COAX.  And WHERE.  The MH in the picture has a NICE Square Tubing (open on each end) "conduit.  My Camelot (and not ever model is the same....has a piece of 1 1/4" angle iron running front to rear under the bays.  UGH... I tried to use a snake.  OPPS....the harnesses and such are inside and above the inside bay roofs.  I really did NOT want to pull all of them.

SO, the Angle IRON has to be used. I fretted around with drilling and putting on cable clamps....and actually ordered some SS screw and plastic clamps.  THEN...I HIT ME.  An ACCO E-12 (medium for documents that are 5/8" THICK) would WORK.  They are about 1 1/4" long....and have a throat of 3/4".  THEY ARE STRONG.  SO, I just popped them on the Angle Iron.  THEN, if you pull the "handles" down...and squeeze....the wire formed handles pop out.  I have used these for wire clips before.  THEN....to be sure... I also put in a small ZIP tie to hold the coax in place.  THUS, no drooping.  I spaced out the clips about 18".  I had to use a piece of 1/2" Foam pipe insulation and some HVAC tape to shield the cable from the AquaHot exhaust.  I Where there was a place where the cable had to go OVER the side supports... I taped them with Duct Tape...then put a clip on each side.  Where there as a GAP... I also used a Zip Tie...and then a smaller one to hold (keep it from slipping either way).

FINALLY....at the FRONT of the bays (the Fuel BAY...  I ran the coax diagonally to the LEFT or towards the outside.  THEN it went VERTICAL (where the FRAME had the steel to support the bay pan).  THEN....over the TOP of the frame....right up to the FRONT>  THEN... I fastened the coax every 12" with three (daisy chained) zip ties...and THEN finally, up to the FRB.  There are TWO ports on the back...I punched a hole in the foam.  BINGO....then up and under the side wall of the Driver's console.  I PANICKED...as I was chewing UP a lot of the 35 Ft coax.  BUT, it worked perfectly.  The Pressure Pro Pulse is mounted above the driver's console (to the left)....it slips under the Panel that has the switches and the shifter and such.....

I had about 2 FT left over.  The ANTENNA WORKS.  The Yukon was in a neighbor's driveway....as I can't get BOTH cars in when the MH is there.  At 150 FT...and the REPEATER OFF.. It read the sensors...

HOW ABOUT THAT.

SO...  Confessions of a QUICK JOB....back in 2015.... It is DONE right.  NOW, there is precious little room.  I had the MP pumped up.  My Roadmaster/Source Sway Bars limit the travel of the air bags...as the shocks also do.

BUT, I easily shinnied under the MH and did the job.  NOT FUN...but running a WIRE back....as we KNOW....is NOT ANY FUN JOB.

I DID do some testing.  Once the clips are in place on the undercoated angle iron...they are NOT MOVING either way...and they Cable should be protected.

That's....

FWIW...  I did FIND OUT....the HARD WAY...why Pressure Pro ships the "Machine Thread" drill screws.  The Frame cross member that is in front of the differential is a piece of HEAVY STEEL Rectangular tubing.  TOUGH to drill.  I drilled a Pilot hole.  THEN use a TAPPING SCREW THREAD Drill Point.  OPPS...these are designed for SHEET METAL penetration.  I carefully torqued with a short 1/4" ratchet...and when I got to the point where the fastener was TIGHT....the HEAD SHEARED OFF.  OK, I used to be Chief Engineer for a Fastener (Bolt and Screw) factory.  WHO....  These are hardened and tempered for SHEET METAL.  NOT for a hunk of steel. The PP fasteners are a THREAD FORMING design....and about a grade 5.  I reused the original PP and the drill points STILL drilled the correct pilot. 

That's it.  Hope this helps....

FWIS...remember...that if one decides to INSTALL the Blue Seas ACR....then there has to be another WIRE (Yellow Status) wire added...as the Batt Boost Wire will be USED for power...so you have to STRING or SNAKE a wire....SO, with a piece of Clear tubing....you could make a small conduit and make this work...

 

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[Dr4Film]

I was wondering how long it would take you to finally move the antenna from the front to the rear just in front of the drive axle. Great job.

I have been ecstatic with the Pressure Pro Pulse TPMS once I got the 35 foot coaxial antenna installed. I have never been without a signal from all 12 tires while towing my Saturn Vue.

 

[Tom Cherry]

16 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

I was wondering how long it would take you to finally move the antenna from the front to the rear just in front of the drive axle. Great job.

I have been ecstatic with the Pressure Pro Pulse TPMS once I got the 35 foot coaxial antenna installed. I have never been without a signal from all 12 tires while towing my Saturn Vue.

 

Wish I had done it earlier.  My old BODY was not happy doing the “Live Fire Survival” routine….  I was black from the elbows on down.  The STUPID rear brake lines were almost overlapping in the center and positioning the drill was a task…requiring 3 hands.  Recommend a NUT Driver bit WITH the magnet.  But is is done…and I’m happy.

ONE POINT…since the air bags are inflated UP FRONT for access to FULL height…then only a little slack needs to be left.  Had to think about that….