Big screw up today. Forgot to disconnect power. Comments on replacement.

[Pduggs]

Already to leave park this morning, but I forgot to disconnect my electrical cord. My neighbor yelled, but too late. Snapped the power cord completely. 
I cut back the insulation and used large wire nuts and electrical tape to get power. 

Can anyone suggest where I can buy a new cord and how to install it?

The DW was very upset.  Now I’ll have to endure lots of questions before we depart. I guess I deserve it  

 

[Rikadoo]

Luckily no one was hurt, its just another day in the life of an rv’r… this too shall pass

[cbr046]

I keep a series of post-its over my transmission selector - "power", "jacks", "antenna" . . . . They all must be cleared before transmission goes in gear.

I realize it's too late now, but also never too late to start a new habit.

- bob

[Rikadoo]

I ise the snap bands on my steering wheel, marked with all my “ alearts” i dont move till there all cleared…

[ktloah]

You can purchase a new cord from Glendinning Co. They are located in SC. They will ship direct to you

[Dr4Film]

I came close one day back in 2012 while at the Everglades Isle Motorcoach resort in Everglade City FL.

Started to back out and my eye caught something in my drivers mirror that wasn't supposed to happen, the electrical door on my Windsor went flying off. I immediately slammed on the brakes then moved forward. I nearly tore their very expensive custom power pedestal off from the base. It was titled ever so slightly.

I stowed the power cable and retrieved my door to fix later. Luckily I did not destroy the hinges on the door and was able to re-install it with a little modification.

I now use the term GOAL before leaving ANY site, Get Out And Look. Plus I walk around the coach TWICE looking at everything, checking storage slides making sure they are locked in position and that all bay doors are closed. Then I lock the bay doors making sure I can not open each one. The very last thing I do is to have my wife get behind the wheel to do a light check with me outside verifying that all lights are working correctly.

The Glendinning Power Cables are some of the best. That's what I would recommend for a replacement.

Edited September 20 by Dr4Film

[Tom Cherry]

Ditto on the going OEM.  Many folks, and this spans 15 years have bought replacement cables that were supposedly "EXACTLY" the same as to the electrical specs....only to be disappointed.  The main issue was the "Flexibility"....as in when the MH was used and the temps were a bit lower....some down towards the 30's or maybe even in the mid 40's the aftermarket cable was so rigid that it did not properly reel in and would not wrap or roll up.

The only other trusted vendor is Camco.  

Your post did not have, or maybe I missed it.. where the cable snapped.  If you have the entire length left over, then you can salvage it.  Purchase a Camco FEMALE end.  Order (Amazon) a tube of Dow Corning #4 insulating compound.  You attach the female end.  Then use if a few times.  Then go back in and retorque the lugs.  Use a Large handle screwdriver with a few wraps of a "shop towel" the red or blue kind that most mechanics were supposed to have hanging out of their back pocket. That friction will give you more leverage. I often PUSH DOWN on the handle with my left hand and torque with my right.  That will give you the proper torque of around 40 or so inch pounds.  SO...you use and then retorque...and then fill the cavity with the insulating compound.  It is the same as a molded one.

I WOULD, since you "stretched" the cable, also purchase a NEW Male Plug.  Some of the plugs would have issues with the crimps being fragile.  SO, you spend maybe $50 and then have an extension that sells upwards of over $150.

YES....that is something that most of us fear.

[Pduggs]

11 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Ditto on the going OEM.  Many folks, and this spans 15 years have bought replacement cables that were supposedly "EXACTLY" the same as to the electrical specs....only to be disappointed.  The main issue was the "Flexibility"....as in when the MH was used and the temps were a bit lower....some down towards the 30's or maybe even in the mid 40's the aftermarket cable was so rigid that it did not properly reel in and would not wrap or roll up.

The only other trusted vendor is Camco.  

Your post did not have, or maybe I missed it.. where the cable snapped.  If you have the entire length left over, then you can salvage it.  Purchase a Camco FEMALE end.  Order (Amazon) a tube of Dow Corning #4 insulating compound.  You attach the female end.  Then use if a few times.  Then go back in and retorque the lugs.  Use a Large handle screwdriver with a few wraps of a "shop towel" the red or blue kind that most mechanics were supposed to have hanging out of their back pocket. That friction will give you more leverage. I often PUSH DOWN on the handle with my left hand and torque with my right.  That will give you the proper torque of around 40 or so inch pounds.  SO...you use and then retorque...and then fill the cavity with the insulating compound.  It is the same as a molded one.

I WOULD, since you "stretched" the cable, also purchase a NEW Male Plug.  Some of the plugs would have issues with the crimps being fragile.  SO, you spend maybe $50 and then have an extension that sells upwards of over $150.

YES....that is something that most of us fear.

Thanks. It snapped just before the cord entered the housing in the wet bay. See picture. 
I removed the power cord motor from the top of the plastic cord storage box. I couldn’t see how the cord is connected to the electrical system. Do you know how it’s connected?

[Dr4Film]

It appears that you have one of the Glendinning Cable Master Systems. That is used only to collect and dispense your power cable. The end normally goes directly into your transfer switch unless they used a junction box after the Cable Master and before the transfer switch.

Are you using a hardwired Progressive Industries EMS-HW50C?

[Tom Cherry]

1 hour ago, Pduggs said:

Thanks. It snapped just before the cord entered the housing in the wet bay. See picture. 
I removed the power cord motor from the top of the plastic cord storage box. I couldn’t see how the cord is connected to the electrical system. Do you know how it’s connected?

OK folks with MORE knowledge than me...but also many who have POSTED BEFORE on the Dynasty.  The cable, I THINK is "pulled" into a well or such...  NOW, on the Camelots....there is a Reel.  The Reel has rotating contacts.  SO, a known...not good...situation.

My understanding of the Glennding is that there is NO CONTACT REEL.  Thus, the Cable is done....same as mine.

There will be a large Junction box in the vicinity.  It will have THREE lugs or terminals....similar to your ATS.  The cable (#6 stranded copper - 3 conductor...and the Ground (supposedly Monaco used #6...but a #10 is OK) is connected inside the J-Box.  I have been in mine.  My cable reel has a "Pigtail".  That pigtail goes into the J-Box.  THEN there is the MAIN FEED or the SHORE (POWER) run to the ATS.  That is the ONLY J-Box or connection.

So....follow the "what's left".  There WILL be a J-Box. it is NOT WIRE NUTTED....or supposedly NEVER WIRE NUTTED.  There is a LUG for INCOMING Line 1 and OUTGOING Line 1.  Each lug has a screw terminal....so all you do is loosen the INCOMING (presumably the sheared cable end) and put in the NEW cable.

YES....AN OEM would be great.....you need to know the length....but if Camco made one the same length and also the same "GROUND" and it was substantially less...I would or might go with that.

OK....good link below.  I did a print search.  HERE IS THE ANSWER...

Pull the Cover off the ATS.  IF the incoming cable is the same "CABLE" as you snapped, then there will be NO junction box.  I don't know the layout or the "reel" or where you snapped it in relationship to the ATS.  If it is CLOSE....then odds are....it is a direct run.

On many units....the power is at the rear...and then there is a J-Box....and the "Romex" of cable used inside the Flex Conduit to the ATS is different.

IF you have the same cable....just inside the flex conduit....then you WILL need a long run.

NOW...as to Home Depot.  YES... a good source...but make sure that the cables "match".  If you take the snapped end to an good electrical supply distributor or such....there is (should) be marking on the side.  That gives all the characteristics and such...including the "plastic rating"

You SHOULD be able to get that from Glenndenning....or off your old cable.  THEN....try to match it up...

[amphi_sc]

I'm not exactly sure what you have but I think you are describing the Glendinning Cablemaster?  If so, here's a link to a topic where I replaced my OEM cable with a Southwire SEOW cable easily obtained from Home Depot (which I see the price has sky rocketed since I did it).  I replaced the original Glendinning cable because it got too stiff in cold weather to wind up.  Anyway, here's a link into the end of that thread, so scroll it back to the beginning:

And the 100' cable I used, cutting the ends of and shortening as required.   End result I have a much longer cable that winds up easier.  https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-100-ft-6-3-and-8-1-SEOW-50-Amp-California-Standard-Power-Distribution-Heavy-Duty-Twist-Lock-Generator-Extension-Cord-19190008/205751569

One more edit to emphasize that the Southwire cable I used has a slightly smaller outside diameter (although appropriately sized conductors internally) so different pinch rollers are required from Glendinning.  Read the other thread...

Edited September 20 by amphi_sc
Got the Home Depot link to post

[LakeBob]

Ouch, should be an easy, but expensive fix.  Cable/wire has become so expensive.   I did the same with only a 110V cord and the dog bone attached.  Tore the 12 gage cord in half. 

I have this Checklist on my Ipad and the wife and I run down it before we take off, every time.   It may seem excessive, but with these big coaches, you don't feel much at the wheel until its too late!

Pre-Departure Check List

1. SET UPPER LOCK ON DOOR
2. PROGRAM GPS FOR TRIP NOW
3. Disconnect Water/sewer the night before
4. Remove Beach Balls!!!- and Slide Flapper Ropes
5. Exterior storage doors locked
6. Raise all Window Awnings
7. Block Rear Sliding Door
8. Lock Shower Door
9. Put Away Scale
10. Rear Toilet Flushed
11. Front Toilet Flushed
12. Secure banging Shades
13. Retract Awnings
14. Lower Antenna
15. Bring in Rugs
16. Bring in Outside Temperature Gauge
17. Remove LED outside lights and store
18. All cabinets secured, anti rattle in place
19. Place small items on bed
20. Move seats up
21. Carpets and mats put away
22. Windshield cleaned
23. Rear view and side view cameras cleaned
24. Tire pressure checked and visual inspection
25. Check turn signals, brake lights, horn
26. Hoses and cables disconnected
27. Steps are cleared and carpet is put away
28. Remove noodles from slides
29. Start Engine
30. Check Air
31. Check Fridge - LOCKED, Power? Inverter on?
32. Move Slides in
33. Walk around coach
34. Travel Height?
35. Look at roof
36. Look Underneath
37. No cords or hoses attached
38. Awnings in
39.  
40. Kitchen secured-water in coffee maker
41. AC TURNED OFF
42. Water pump off
43. Aqua Hot Off
44. Lights off including storage bays and closets
45. Generator off
46. Inverter on
47. Island Locked
48. Doors closed
49. Refrigerator latched, retainer shelves - Towel in Place
50. Windows closed
51. Fuel check
52. Windshield wipers in working order
53. Steps retracted when engine is on
54. Water, coffee and snacks easily accessible by the DRIVER and passenger
55. Tunes!!

 

1. TOAD:
2. Tow car in tow mode
3.  Secure tow car to RV
4.  Check all safety pins
5.  Attach brake line to tow car
6. Check turn signals and brake lights

[cbr046]

Rule 39?  No such thing as a coincidence?

Click 'Like' if you get it

- bob

[det944]

I have arrival, engine start and departure check lists. Then I do as Richard stated Get Outside And Look before the coach moves. I've learned to never be in a hurry with this beast...it's a lot of stuff going down the road! 🛣️ 

[Les Hurdle]

Nope I'm the dumb one 39= ??

[cbr046]

1 hour ago, Les Hurdle said:

Nope I'm the dumb one 39= ??

PM sent

- bob

[6Wheels]

At least it wasn't the filler hose at the fuel station!

[LakeBob]

23 hours ago, cbr046 said:

Rule 39?  No such thing as a coincidence?

Click 'Like' if you get it

- bob

Don’t get it…..

[birdshill123]

Lake Bob. That list is so long I would gave to start in the a.m and leave in the afternoon! Glendenning is expensive but the very best I have encountered.

[LakeBob]

1 hour ago, birdshill123 said:

Lake Bob. That list is so long I would gave to start in the a.m and leave in the afternoon! Glendenning is expensive but the very best I have encountered.

Yes, it’s a little over kill, however the wife covers half the tasks and I cover the rest.  Everything is done( we think!) before we run dowm the list and confirm.  It only takes a minute or two.  It has helped us catch an errant item or two.  😜
 

 

[Les Hurdle]

On 9/20/2024 at 10:04 AM, LakeBob said:

Ouch, should be an easy, but expensive fix.  Cable/wire has become so expensive.   I did the same with only a 110V cord and the dog bone attached.  Tore the 12 gage cord in half. 

I have this Checklist on my Ipad and the wife and I run down it before we take off, every time.   It may seem excessive, but with these big coaches, you don't feel much at the wheel until its too late!

Pre-Departure Check List

1. SET UPPER LOCK ON DOOR
2. PROGRAM GPS FOR TRIP NOW
3. Disconnect Water/sewer the night before
4. Remove Beach Balls!!!- and Slide Flapper Ropes
5. Exterior storage doors locked
6. Raise all Window Awnings
7. Block Rear Sliding Door
8. Lock Shower Door
9. Put Away Scale
10. Rear Toilet Flushed
11. Front Toilet Flushed
12. Secure banging Shades
13. Retract Awnings
14. Lower Antenna
15. Bring in Rugs
16. Bring in Outside Temperature Gauge
17. Remove LED outside lights and store
18. All cabinets secured, anti rattle in place
19. Place small items on bed
20. Move seats up
21. Carpets and mats put away
22. Windshield cleaned
23. Rear view and side view cameras cleaned
24. Tire pressure checked and visual inspection
25. Check turn signals, brake lights, horn
26. Hoses and cables disconnected
27. Steps are cleared and carpet is put away
28. Remove noodles from slides
29. Start Engine
30. Check Air
31. Check Fridge - LOCKED, Power? Inverter on?
32. Move Slides in
33. Walk around coach
34. Travel Height?
35. Look at roof
36. Look Underneath
37. No cords or hoses attached
38. Awnings in
39.  
40. Kitchen secured-water in coffee maker
41. AC TURNED OFF
42. Water pump off
43. Aqua Hot Off
44. Lights off including storage bays and closets
45. Generator off
46. Inverter on
47. Island Locked
48. Doors closed
49. Refrigerator latched, retainer shelves - Towel in Place
50. Windows closed
51. Fuel check
52. Windshield wipers in working order
53. Steps retracted when engine is on
54. Water, coffee and snacks easily accessible by the DRIVER and passenger
55. Tunes!!

 

1. TOAD:
2. Tow car in tow mode
3.  Secure tow car to RV
4.  Check all safety pins
5.  Attach brake line to tow car
6. Check turn signals and brake lights

My wife asked when you might deal with the upstairs toilet ?

[96 EVO]

I haven't 'yet' driven off with something still hooked up, but have almost driven away with my $350 surge protector sitting on the pedestal!

Now, when it gets unplugged, it gets stowed before I do anything else!

[vanwill52]

When looking for a more flexible cord, look for the letter "E" in the description.  SEOW  The "E" stands for "elastomer".  The very worst (stiffest) cord is STW.  "T" stands for thermoplastic.

[VinceB]

A good friend of mine used to own a KOA.

Folks driving off while still connected happened a lot more than one might think. He used to stock spare pedestals because of it.

[96 EVO]

56 minutes ago, VinceB said:

A good friend of mine used to own a KOA.

Folks driving off while still connected happened a lot more than one might think. He used to stock spare pedestals because of it.

Probably a good reason to install the pedestal's with the outlets facing the direction RV's will leave the site.