2002 Signature - Super Slide. Believe have wrong Battery for house - questions???

[Keith Russell]

02 Monaco Sign. 45ft - purchased over a year ago and been having many electrical issues.  I just checked the house batteries and separated them and had the checked and both are showing bad, one is only 30cca and other was around 300cca.  They have a 2 - BBG-220RT 12volt batteries .  Obviously I need to now change both house batteries but I thought I should have deep cycle batteries for the house side?  What would you all recommend to purchase? what series battery? 

 

Thank you in advance,

Keith

[Craggar]

They don’t seem to be for rv’s but to replace them it’s hard to go wrong with Trojans.

[CLIFF918]

You should have 2 banks of batteries. 

2  12 volt batteries together should be the chassis batteries for starting

The house batteries would be 4ea 6 volt batteries

At least it is that way on my 02 Diplomat

I replaced my house batteries with: https:/.amazon.com/gp//wwwproduct/B00ASCTJNO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They work just fine and don't lack power when boondocking 

[Craggar]

2 minutes ago, CLIFF918 said:

You should have 2 banks of batteries. 

2  12 volt batteries together should be the chassis batteries for starting

The house batteries would be 4ea 6 volt batteries

At least it is that way on my 02 Diplomat

I replaced my house batteries with: https:/.amazon.com/gp//wwwproduct/B00ASCTJNO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They work just fine and don't lack power when boondocking 

It all depends on the previous owner, my Windsor came with 2 12v deep cycles which was actually more than enough us staying in campgrounds with full hook ups. 

[Keith Russell]

The previous owner converted house bank to 2-12v batteries.  Is it ok to keep the 2-12volt set up?  If so which type of battery?

[Craggar]

2 minutes ago, Keith Russell said:

The previous owner converted house bank to 2-12v batteries.  Is it ok to keep the 2-12volt set up?  If so which type of battery?

Like I said for us it was fine because we were staying campgrounds most of the time. For you it depends on what you are going to be doing.

[CLIFF918]

2-12 volt batteries will work just fine as long as they are deep cycle don't pay attention to CCA it is reserve number that you should look for the higher the number the better. 

[timaz996]

Tell us how the coach will be used and if there is any solar on the roof. Do you always stay in campgrounds or do you like to dry camp? do you have a residential fridge or a RV fridge? 

Edited yesterday at 08:10 PM by timaz996

[Keith Russell]

ok, what is a good reserve number to be looking for?  is a 31 series the right size batteries?

us at the races so I guess dry camp mostly, has residential fridge.  As far as solar nothing now. But considering upgrading the charging etc to newer system where I will not need to hook up a charger to the batteries when at the racetrack.  

[cbr046]

You definitely want deep cycle.  If there's a CCA spec you don't want it.  CCA is for starting engines and not designed for long discharge cycles.   

Not all batteries are the same.  Lead purity, plate thickness and I'm sure a few other things go into the making of a better lead-acid battery. 

Unless you plan on 400 - 500 recharging cycles (basically the life cycle of lead-acid battery) the best bang for the buck (IMO) would be Duracell GC2 golf cart batteries from Sam's Club or Costco.  These are 6V deep cycle wet batteries.  You'll need 4.  Plan on water miser battery caps to capture lost electrolyte and a good battery electrolyte tester. 

If money is no object Trojan T-105's are an excellent battery.  The VMAX that Cliff918 mentions also looks to be an excellent battery. 

If you really want to spend some money consider a LiFePO (lithium) battery conversion.  You'll need to replace more than just batteries so it's not for the faint of heart (or inexpensive), but your time between running the generator would be greatly extended . . . . unless you run air conditioning . . . which you can't. 

Good luck with your decision.

- bob

 

[Ivan K]

You will still need a charging source most likely daily, be it a good solar, generator or external with 4 deep cycle batteries and residential fridge. I get by with about an hour of generator while using microwave, coffee maker and cooling down for the night etc. And thats with a propane fridge. When I upgrade the fridge, it will get lithium too, whichever comes first, considering my FLA batteries are at 5 years mark.

[Tom Cherry]

Back to basics.  
 

 

READ and HEED.  Your MH was designed for one bank of FOUR 6VDC Deep Cycle Marine RV batteries.  Two pair of batteries connected in SERIES.  Then the TWO pairs are connected in Parallel.  There  was, I think, an option for a second bank. Download the sales brochure from MonacoCoach.com.  It spells it out.

Your “OEM” Amp Hour Capacity was 450 Amp Hours.  When you series string a pair of SIX VDC, with an Amp Hour Rating of 225 AH, the Amp Hours are the same…..BUT, you have two and fhe Voltage is 12 VDC.  Then when you put the two pair in Parallel, you DO ADD the Amp Hours.  So each pair, which is NOW 12 VDC are ADDED.  225 X 2 = 450 Amp Hours.

Whomever sold or owned the rig was either not knowledgeable or “spiffed it up” to sell.

You NEVER, EVER, under any circumstances use a CRANKING Battery in a Deep Cycle application.  If it says CCA.  Get rid of it.

Next….you can NOT have a shop or dealer TEST A DEEP CYCLE battery with their “meter”.  The meter was designed for a CRANKING battery….or CCA.  If anyone tells you different….excuse yourself and leave….they are NOT KNOWLEDGEABLE….nor trustworthy.

You can ONLY test a deep cycle as outlined in the paper.

NEXT UP.  You can TRY to use a mixed breed setup….it is a recipe for failure.  It will also destroy or greatly shorten the life of YOUR NEW BATTERIES.  That is exactly what every manufacturer states that as well as any reputable marine or RV or Golf cart vendor.

Your trays are structured or designed for GOLF CART batteries. The Trojan T-105’s are the longest lasting and most robust or can take charging abuse or such and be salvageable.  I and a senior staff member and other experienced members run them.  Usually 8 years.  One is now at 10 (TEN) years.  We pay retail and no vendor gives us new ones or discounts.

NOW…AGM has not been mentioned.  AGM!s are more (15 - 30%) more.  They require a more meticulous charging profile.  Often times members don’t know that or choose to ignore or their older chargers do not HAVE an AGM profiles….thus….you pay more and risk shorter life.  The AGM’s do NOT require electrolyte refilling or services.  BUT THEY MUST be exercised (charged, discharged and rechaeged….repeat 2 - 3 times….at least once or twice ANNUALLY).  Same for the WET CELL FLOODED LEAD ACID..  So, you MUST do the maintenance on BOTH…same level.  You save maybe 20 minutes or less each time….not worth the risk nor the additional cost….IMHO.

Bottom LINE….START OVER.  Put it back to OEM.  Buy the Trojans.  Also order Water Miser Caps for them.  The experienced members that do rarely add more than an ounce or two of Distilled Water (pharmacy or supermarket) to each cell.

That’s the easiest and the cheapest, in the long run.  Eventually, if you boondock a lot,,,.convert the puck lights to LED.  

That’s it….

[Benjamin]

The tray was probably sized for four 6V batteries, golf cart type, nearly any size will fit.  ONE 12v would work depending on how you want to be able to use it.  A racetrack typically has generators running all the time, so one marine cranking battery (semi deep cycle...) would work to run the lights and fridge for a few hours between running the generator for cooking.  If you do a few weekends a year, with the generator going most of the day, one marine battery will last fine.  If you go with two, I'd get two 6v golf cart type and hook up in series.  If you want to go longer without the generator, four 6v.  OR at some point you have to consider Li, one huge advantage is the charging rate, you can charge Li faster than lead acid, and they don't care about being cycled between 20-80% capacity for many thousands of cycles.  The many thousands of cycles won't matter to most RV's, but being happy left drained for a few days and charging fast when you start the generator is valuable for RV use. 

[Tom Cherry]

9 hours ago, Benjamin said:

The tray was probably sized for four 6V batteries, golf cart type, nearly any size will fit.  ONE 12v would work depending on how you want to be able to use it.  A racetrack typically has generators running all the time, so one marine cranking battery (semi deep cycle...) would work to run the lights and fridge for a few hours between running the generator for cooking.  If you do a few weekends a year, with the generator going most of the day, one marine battery will last fine.  If you go with two, I'd get two 6v golf cart type and hook up in series.  If you want to go longer without the generator, four 6v.  OR at some point you have to consider Li, one huge advantage is the charging rate, you can charge Li faster than lead acid, and they don't care about being cycled between 20-80% capacity for many thousands of cycles.  The many thousands of cycles won't matter to most RV's, but being happy left drained for a few days and charging fast when you start the generator is valuable for RV use. 

Not PROBABLY…but was.  Check the sales brochure…

OK….here is the real world.  Read the brochure.  Your rig, which you have classified as a “Large Slide” in past posts originally left with FIVE GEL Batteries.  Maybe another member or the prints or your manual will show the layout.  Unfortunately, the more we learn about your rig, then, the more we know that someone really “altered it without any knowledge of the consequences”.

At a minumim….you need four STRONG and dependable Trojan T-105 batteries.  You need to crank the Genny and also install a “Blue Seas” battery selector switch.  This is a $40 300 or maybe 400 A switch.  I’d hook it up so I could use BOTH BANKS for the Super Slide.  That will power it sufficiently.  After the slides are in or out…you turn OFF the switch.  They call it the TWO BATTERY switch.  You just use the OFF or BOTH positions.  I THINK it is s higher amp than the regular but the 300A ON/OFF would work.  Many of us store our rigs with the banks jumpered and charge both.  This would also be a benefit if you have power at storage.

You may even have dual Inverters.  Read your manual and use the prints. Find out what you have.  The larger slide will be a challenge…but my own personal opinion, based on battery knowledge and research….4 flooded and having the “chassis boost” will give you way more volts…as in the voltage will not drop.  You do not want a voltage drop for that slide system. By using an auxiliary “jumper switch”, you have that.  I had a hydraulic slide issue.  Had or have a high resistance connection….so I instslled the switch.  I run my hydraulic slide off the chassis.  There is a 20% increase in “speed” or where they should be.  I CAN use both.  I think I know where the issue is and will fix that.  But for all practical purposes….it is fixed,

I wouldn’t waste money on GEL’s.  I double up on the batteries as in use BOTH. Flipping the switch takes a minute….and the hydraulic motor will be operating at the correct voltage.  You do NOT want to run it at a reduced voltage.  The AMPS will skyrocket and overheat it. On shore….you have the inverter(s) charging.  But when no shore…have the Genny on. SO both banks….with being recharged….you are good to go.  Take that to the bank…