Lost some house electrical power furnance, monitor panel, bathroom lights

[Knight 40 PLQ]

I have reset GFI and it reads 120v on meter, all batteries are fully charged 6.8v, all fuses look good, no breakers tripped in the rear bedroom electrical panel, what am I missing, thanks Tim 

[jacwjames]

These items might be on the 12 volt distribution system.  Check your 12 volt panel

[96 EVO]

Accidentally hit the 'salesman' switch inside the entry door?

[Tom Cherry]

12 hours ago, Knight 40 PLQ said:

I have reset GFI and it reads 120v on meter, all batteries are fully charged 6.8v, all fuses look good, no breakers tripped in the rear bedroom electrical panel, what am I missing, thanks Tim 

First...  There are TWO "POWERS" in the MH and many folks are not familiar.  As an aside, it would be good for you to read Sections 8 and 9 of your manual.

The overhead lights, exhaust fans, water pump, power to your Thermostat, and many other items are 12VDC.  They come straight from the House Bank....via the Fuse or House Distribution panel.

NOW....it gets tricky.  You INTERIOR outlets and Microwave and power to the Refrigerator (assuming a GAS/Electric) and TV's COME IN on the shore cord....then to the Automatic Transfer Switch (ATS) and then to the Main Panel.  BUT.....then it gets tricky...assuming you have an INVERTER/Charger.  The power for the inverter comes from the 30 A breaker in the main panel.  THEN....the inverter/Charger has its OWN INTERNAL ATS.  It then sends out TWO circuits...of 120 VAC Power.  One goes to the GFCI and that then goes to all the interior outlets....the other is the Microwave.

SO...the OVERHEADS are NOT 120 VAC.

As Ben ( @96 EVO ) says...  you have accidentally tripped.....the BATTERY CUTOFF SWITCH at the entrance.  Usually on the LEFT lower console...but HAS been on the right.  READ THE MANUAL.  Read the part about BATTERY CUTOFF SWITCH.  That switch controls a solenoid that KILLS all the interior 12 VDC circuit.  IT HAS NOTHING to do with the 120 VAC. 

Now to really confuse....some Inverter/Charger MUST "see" or read 12VDC from the House Bank.  If the House is DEAD...the inverter will NOT allow the 120 VAC to be SWITCHED and Distributed.

PUSH the BAT CUTOFF Switch on....press the TOP.  It is a Momentary Contact.  If that does NOT restore power....then you have a defective Battery Cutoff Solenoid or Salesman's Switch as it is called.

That can be jumpered.  Need a NAPA 781144 Jumper   https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/MPB781144

Look on page 221 of the manual.  The Solenoid on the RIGHT is the HOUSE Solenoid.  If you do NOT have power....then find it.  There are TWO Solenoids.  It is the SMALLER of the two... 

Your manual has prints.  Here is the one.  Look at the Batteries on the LEFT.  The BATT CUT OFF or whatever is the one.  You need to find it.  Test it for INCOMING and OUTGOING 12 VDC.  If the Salesmans up front BATT CUTOFF switch has been pushed (Top) in...and there is only power on ONE of the main studs...then jumper it.

OR, if there is enough slack in the cables...  Then move one cable to the other terminal.  This takes it out of the circuit.  At LEAST 95% of the member have removed or Jumpered or Bypassed that idiotic device.

Again....time to read the electrical sections.  

Good Luck.

2006 Knight & Others high current 12 VDC Print_.pdf

[Knight 40 PLQ]

Thank you, Tom, yes it was the salesman switch, somehow it got turned off, I blame the DW 😘 but its back on and all the lights are working, again many thanks Tom

[Tom Cherry]

Save yourself legal fees and counseling fees.  Blaming the DW who may be an indiscriminate BUTTON PUSHER will only lead to less than marital bliss.  I married a “OH GEE….I don’t remember” or “well, I didn’t know what was wrong and I just kept pushing buttons”. 
 

Buy the NAPA and bypass it.  This will only deteriorate and you will NEVER win.  I did….

[96 EVO]

Every RV owner has, or will, press the battery cutoff switch at some time!

Especially when you haven't used the RV in a while and can't remember which of those switches turn on the ceiling lights, and it's dark in there!

As far as wives pressing buttons till they get the result they are looking for. Believe that is universal!

Edited October 6 by 96 EVO

[Tom Cherry]

OK….yes. FOLKS DO IT.

Now…a way to prevent or at least TRY….

Do you have a remote entry lock system.  Never saw it in the manual?  
Do you have a porch light or light over or near the door?

What I did was add an LED Bulb or light (drill 3/16” hole) ABOVE THE INTERIOR LIGHT SWITCH at the entry.  That assumes you have a switch there.  The LED is powered off the Porch Light.  If you have a remote unlock system….that USUALLY lights up the Porch Light for 30 seconds.  If you leave the Porch Light ON….the LED is on.

SO….coming in at night….I have a LED above the INTERIOR LIGHT Switch.  I KNOW then to push THAT SWITCH.  Some inadvertently hit the BATT CUTOFF.  That switch is VERY NEAR the Interior Light switch.  

[Rheine]

This is so relevant and great advise. We just survived the same thing. Thank you @Tom Cherry .  Start simple and understand the system.  We were running a heavy summer load in our 16 year old Diplomat. Boom, power out but not all.   No indicator of shore power in the panel but several outlets were working including frig microwave and entertainment system. I could not make sense of this,  No 12v.  Could not switch to inverter. I thought damaged ATS,  I checked the power pedestal, lit some candles and sat down.  I did have power at the desk so I lit up the PC and went to my goto Monacoers forum to find this thread. Yes, battery disconnect by front door.  Should have a switch cover.   I am still kicking myself. Symptoms did not make sense but the disconnect is a great first stop.  I am servicing same as soon as this trip is over.  No limping home this time.  Thanks again everyone. 

 

R