No power to generator

[Dbircky]

Two days ago while traveling my generator needed the boost switch to start.    Today, after parking, the generator doesn't turn over with the boost switch.    Further, there are no lights at the dash or hallway switch.    I hopped underneath, cleaned the terminals, and discovered no 12v current going INTO the generator (10qd).   Additionally the charge light on the magnum panel doesn't light up.   The inverter lights are in    I have four new house batteries coming tomorrow that hopefully will fix the low volt issue

My questions:

Am I missing a fuse or breaker upstream of the generator that could be causing the no switch light problem?    

How do I have no charging but inverting works?

if it's bad house batteries (which I believe I have) why won't the generator turn over on boost?   Or at least activate the switch light?

Will the new batteries fix the problem?    

Minor side note:    I traveled her for my only daughter's wedding tomorrow and am heading back south on Sunday    So I might be changing batteries in a tuxedo.      

Thank you for your assistance, I searched the forum but couldn't find a similar problem     I read both manuals for the generator and transfer switch without finding a solution     

 

 

 

 

 

[Ivan K]

If your house batteries are very low, charger will not kick in and your boost solenoid may not have enough to turn on. Someone will know what powers your dash lights but usual house lights are fed from the house batteries that you suspect dead. How it could be inverting from dead battery, I would have an inverter alarm but with shore power it would not be inverting anyway. Best check the battery bank voltage first.

[Dbircky]

I didn't make it clear.   I have dash lights, I'm referring to the small red light on the generator switch which give codes.    What you said makes sense about weak batteries.   Mine are 5 years old which is probably the end of their life.   Planning to have the new batteries in first thing in the morning.  

[Dbircky]

Well, new batteries in, still no power to generator starter or switch lights.  Took off both 12v lines (neg & pos) cleaned, no power in lines.      Cycled each switch (main cutoffs, salesman, magnum, all three generator start switches) still no power.   Books don't show either a fuse or breaker which is connected to the 12v power line.   

[Frank McElroy]

Have you checked the 125 amp fuse that powers the generator?

[96 EVO]

Yep, you will get no switch light if that 125A ANL fuse has blown!

[Tom Cherry]

2 hours ago, Frank McElroy said:

Have you checked the 125 amp fuse that powers the generator?

If I can expand on Frank's explanation.

There are FOUR BUSSMANN ANL Ignition Proof Fuses in the rear panel. If you order the CHEAPER ONES from Amazon....KEEP your tools handy.  You will HAVE to change them.  They do NOT last.  The OEM is the BUSSMANN ANL Ignition Proof Fuse.  Amazon sometimes has them...and they ARE, if you search, available from on various Supplier.

NOW...I searched in a the Raleigh - Durham area.  There was ONLY ONE Supplier for the ANL's.  It was either NAPA or one of the other well known Auto Parts Supplier.  PERHAP a Car Stereo shop might have them....they put in some heavy amp draw amplifiers and subwoofers.

BUT... ALL ANL "TYPE" Fuses are NOT the same.  I bought one (I had to leave the next day).  Found it on a Sunday.  BUT....it would NOT FIT.  The hole sizes are NOT the SAME.  YES....it said ANL.  But the Bolt holes were NOT correct.  I had to take a hacksaw or a Dremel Tool. The hole in the end was about 1/8" off....as in it needed to be WIDER.  I then cut off the metal between the HOLE and the END of the TAB.  That gave me an ELONGATED SLOT.  Sort of hard to explain....but on each end....there is a HOLE in the fuse mounting tab.  I trimmed (ground) out the metal so that the HOLE turned into a SLOT.  

I had to put a LARGE Washer on TOP of the FUSE tab so that I had MORE surface area.  THAT IS THE EMERGENCY REPAIR.  It worked for 1500 miles....and then the CHEAPER Fuse went KAPOOT.  Fortunately, I had ordered the CORRECT Fuse (mine was the 200AMP...doesn't matter) and had the BUSSMANN.  So, that fixed it.  I carry a SPARE FUSE for every amperage in the panel.  

My advice.  GO BACK and LOOK.  You can, with a good LED flashlight.  You can SEE the fusable link....OR, use your VOM....

OK.....THAT MIGHT NOT BE THE PROBLEM.....SO HERE, yes it HAPPENED TO ME...  The 200 Amp was on the Slide Power...

THEN...THE GENNY WOULD NOT START.  OK....Slide UNDER.  I put Jumper Cables on the terminals.  Cranked it with my car.

BUT....I did NOT have enough voltage.  WHY.  I did a LOT of testing.  HERE IS WHAT HAPPENED on my CAMELOT.  The HOUSE Negative was a HIGH RESISTANCE connection to the GROUND STUD.  My recommendation.  GET UNDER the MH under the Battery BOX.  There are TWO GROUND STUDS behind the box or bay.  ONE is the CHASSIS...  The OTHER is the HOUSE.  If the FUSE is BAD....this ain't gonna work..  BUT, if the FUSE is good.   THEN you CAN get out an AUTOMOTIVE Jumper Cable and JUMPER the HOUSE NEGATIVE to the CHASSIS NEGATIVE.  BINGO....if it STARTS....then you have an ISSUE with the Ground STUDS.  Just because your METER read NO or low VOLTS, the proof is in the CRANKING.  Pull off the GROUND CABLES.  CLEAN the STUDS and the TERMINALS.  Reinstall.

That made all the difference in the world.  That was in 2015.  Have NOT had an issue since then.

OK....NOW unless you have read the posts here....there is a SERIOUS ISSUE with the SLIDE SYSTEM.  YEP...you got PROBLEMS....and it must be fixed.  It is NOT connected to your current problem...but we always post this for 2009 Camelot & Scepter Owner.  Ben's 2008 Scepter is CORRECT.  Monaco PLANNED to add a GENNY SLIDE.  Never got AROUND TO IT...but changed the Circuit Breaker.  BAD....VERY BAD.

Look at the print.  You need to order a 80 Amp Circuit Breaker Switchable with Manual Reset for Boat Trolling Motor Marine ATV Vehicles Stereo Audio Battery Solar System, 12V - 48V DC, Waterproof (80A)

The BRAND is T TOCAS.  I THINK that is the brand that MONACO put in.  THE REASON.  This is the POWER to the Hydraulic System.  It is in the LOWER LEFT CORNER.  The MOTOR for the Lippert Hydraulic Slide is rated at 65 AMPS.  If it gets into a bind or has a high resistance connection....the 150 Amp will let it BURN UP THE MOTOR.  I KNOW....been there.  I had FIGURED out something was wrong and Lippert said.... MONACO GOOFED.  The 2008's had the 80 Amp.  Change it out.

NOW...spend another 15 MINUTES.  Go to the Hydraulic MOTOR.  TIghten the NUTS on the BIG Solenoid.  Remove the CABLES from the MOTOR.  There is a NUT on each STUD.  That NUT will loosen.  What happens is the Brushes are NOT TIGHT to the terminals.  Use a small wrench and SNUG (these are Copper or Brass) don't twist them off.  SNUG is OK.  That then removed the High Resistance connection INSIDE the MOTOR.  Then clean and replace the cables.  TRUST ME....this will FRY the motor.

FINALLY....while you are there.  You HAVE, if it is OEM, the BREAD LOAF Reservoir.  Get under the MH... LOOK UP.  FEEL.  The end of the Reservoir is canerlevered OUT.  NO SUPPORT.  That vibrates and the seal between the Reservoir and the PUMP fails.  UGLY.  Lippert redesigned....and then later changed to a Rectangular tank.  Fabricate a brace or a bracket from some Aluminum ANGLE or something.  Attach it to body or the frame.  SUPPORT the end just dangling there.  Put a couple of thicknesses of HVAC Foam TAPE.  So, it doesn't vibrate.

THAT'S IT.....except, if you have the IOTA 50-R ATS, it was recalled and is a FIRE and Personal Safety ISSUE.  Plenty here....search.  The most popular replacement is the ESCO LPT50BRD....

Good LUCK.  Find a fuse....order the BUSSMANN....  Do the PM on the Ground STUDS....BTW, there is ONE ground Stud upfront.  It provides the GROUND for the Slide and the Generator.  That will pull upwards of 100 Amps.  If the FRONT ground stud is bad....same deal.

YES...this is LONG...but IMPORTANT...

 

 

12V High Current Dist TGC Rev 2..pdf

[Dbircky]

Frank, exactly what I was looking for.   New fuses ordered.  
Tom, thank you, will be pulling the other grounds and checking them. 
 

Currently away from unit, but will do all hopefully this weekend.