Battery Tending over the winter

[MTpanther]

2003 Safari Panther

The rig is new to me and I’m in the process of getting it situated for winter. I’d like to plug it into shore power to keep the batteries in good shape, however I have not installed my RV pad with 30/50amp plug ins.
 

The manual advises against using light duty extension cords. It’s a good 100ft that I would have to run an extension cord with adapters.

I also noticed that there is an option to lower the charge rate on the house battery/solar/inverter panel. 
 

Any advise would be helpful 

Thanks

Drew

[96 EVO]

Buy a heavy duty extension cord.

Charge your batteries fully with your gen, then plug in to your 15A.

Set your 'max shore' on your inverter remote to 10 or 5A.

Should be fine. Keep an eye on things, including your battery water levels.

[Benjamin]

My 95 Safari came with three 12"x36" panels of 40w each that charge the house bank.  At least one is still working and will keep up with the self discharge, but not much more. The 12" x 12" panel for the chassis battery probably didn't even last a year.  If it's in the sun, then solar can easily keep the batteries in good shape. 

Or plug in with whatever cord you have with the lowest setting.  You won't run an A/C or water heater, but a couple amps of AC will be 20A DC and run the lights or water pump if you use it occasionally.  Even if the power went off for a week and the charger came on at 50A, it wouldn't last long enough to heat up an extension cord.

[MTpanther]

Thanks 96 Evo,

I appreciate it! Just needed some confirmation I think.

[folivier]

What about turning off both battery switches, chassis and house?

[Benjamin]

Typically there are still circuits hooked up that bypass the battery shut offs, and the solar would not be hooked up.  But you can confirm that.  Removing the ground cables will disconnect the battery completely regardless of what is connected to the positive terminal, and leaving the battery over winter with the ground cable off should have plenty of power left in the spring, but still charge before starting.  And check voltage before charging if you want to avoid being stranded. 

[Tom Cherry]

Here is what MANY of us do.  It WORKS for us....regardless of whether we have POWER at Storage....or the type of Motor Home Charging system.

GENERICALLY...

A Charger will only pull upwards of 100 DC Amps at an MAX Charging rate of 14.5 (Bulk).  That is 1,450 Watts.  SO, divide 1,450 by 120 VAC.  That is 12 Amps.  BUT, most will use at LEAST a #14 (15 Amps) supply cord...  Some will use a #12.

NEXT.  DEPENDS on your CHARGING SYSTEM.

This works for ALL.  We DISCONNECT the Control Wires (small wires) to the Battery Boost Solenoid.  That is WHAT is used to CONNECT or JUMPER the Battery Bank when the Charging System is working.  In the Safari, the system is PROBABLY...  Inverter will CHARGE the House when ON SHORE.  The Alternator will charge BOTH when driving.  SO....

Disconnect the small wires to the BOOST.  Turn OFF the DISCONNECT SWITCHES.  Place a Car Jumper Cable between the Positives of the HOUSE and CHASSIS.  OR, use a HARD WIRED JUMPER.

For Dynasty (circa 2005 and up)....  @Frank McElroy has posted a picture of his COPPER TUBING JUMPER.  He also "kills" the #6 Board so the Bi-Directional Charging control is NON FUNCTIONAL. That Jumper allows him NOT TO USE, or WEAR OUT THE CONTACTS, in the Big Boy Boost.  Then the Inverter is charging BOTH....

I use a similar system.  I connect a #2 Battery Cable.  I use a 36" Cable with 3/8" Holes in the terminals.  I then ATTACH the JUMPER from one of the House Positive Studs and one of the Chassis Positive Studs.  THE NEGATIVES or Grounds are connected on the GROUND CHASSIS STUDS.

I pull off the Big Boy control wires.  THAT keeps the Big Boy from being energized.  I KNOW where the SOLENOID wire is on the Intellitec Diesel2 BIRD Module.  Doesn't matter.

SO....ordering a simple $10 cable from Amazon would be MY CHOICE for the Safari.  NOW, the inverter keeps them CHARGED.

BUT....regardless of HOW YOU DO IT....You MUST check the Electrolyte about every THREE months.  NEVER use a cheap Battery Charger....you will damage the batteries.

SOME FOLKS also will use this....if they have power.... 

I set up my neighbor's bass boat and his truck.  He has FOUR batteries.  It works GREAT.....

PulseTech XC400 Xtreme Charge 4 AMP Smart Battery Charger Maintainer

First....CHARGE UP BOTH BANKS....using the Inverter or the Alternator.   THEN TURN OFF the Disconnect Switches....BOTH.  Use the #2 Cable and CONNECT the Banks (Positive to Positive).  Attach the PulseTech XC400 Xtreme Charge 4 AMP Smart Battery Charger Maintainer,

This is a full 4 AMP Charger/Maintainer.... and it is HIGH QUALITY....multi-stage.  With NO LOAD (the Banks are DISCONNECTED), the ONLY circuits are the ECM (Chassis) and Propane & CO alarms (House), FOUR AMPS is way MORE than enough. 

BUT you MUST Pull the 120 VAC AC plugs on the Refrigerator, Microwave, all TV's, all Entertainment systems, etc.  I have a POWER STRIP....so that is easy.

The OTHER WAY.....and MANY DO THIS.

They FULLY CHARGE the Banks.  THEN, they PULL off the NEGATIVE (and I would do the POSITIVE) Cables from each BANK.  Thus, the Batteries are OFF.  They will hold a charge for several months.  You then go back, occasionally and drive and/or run the Genny and recharge...  Many folks use this.

That's what works....  READ THIS....all MH owners should understand HOW batteries work.  This is the NUMBER ONE ISSUE...and many do NOT understand HOW TO TAKE CARE OF...as in KEEP THEM WORKING...  MAKE THEM LAST LONGER....SAVE BIG DOLLARS...  LOL. That is why it was written...

 

[cbr046]

I've used a 2 wire 100 ft / 14 ga extension cord in the past.  1A through my cord gave 10A of DC charging, enough for the inverter to float charge the batteries.  It wasn't long enough so I had to add a 50 ft cord.  Nine years of doing this I eventually broke down and bought a 150 ft 10 ga cord from Amazon so I could do more than just charge batteries - 100 ft 10 Gauge Extension Cords 10 3 Contractor Grade

While I don't recommend 2 wire cords it's what my dad used to power our cabin cruiser while traveling in the 1960's.  Ungrounded 120VAC on the water, what could go wrong?  It didn't kill us then (somehow) . . . . plus it has sentimental value every time I use it.

- bob

 

[birdshill123]

The one winter I stayed home (covid) I bought a Heavy duty battery maintainer. I think it has 4 outputs. About 2 amps each.  I disconnected the ground cables. Battery shut offs in off position. I have 8 6 volts so connected them to the charger in pairs. Worked perfectly. Amazon has those maintainers. Not cheap but works well.

[Tom Cherry]

1 hour ago, birdshill123 said:

The one winter I stayed home (covid) I bought a Heavy duty battery maintainer. I think it has 4 outputs. About 2 amps each.  I disconnected the ground cables. Battery shut offs in off position. I have 8 6 volts so connected them to the charger in pairs. Worked perfectly. Amazon has those maintainers. Not cheap but works well.

YES....they work well.  Don't know the brand nor the cost.  The one that I have used and other members also is PulseTech

https://pulsetech.com/products/quadlink-kit

Amazon has it.  I called PulseTech to make sure.  Here, in ENGLISH and Understanding is how it works.  It is ALSO a Pulsing Desulfonator.  A GREAT FEATURE...

• Kit has the Charger; Quad Link Brain; Battery Tester; TWO 25 Ft. Extensions; TWO 5 Ft Extensions.  
• I would use it, with 120 VAC as follows:  Disconnect Switches OFF; LABEL ALL CABLES AND JUMPERS.
• Chassis.  Disconnect the Positive and Negative cables...as.  Remove the TWO Jumpers (run from Positive to Negative).  NOW the batteries are ISOLATED.
• House.  Disconnect all the Positive and Negative Cables.  Remove the SIDE Jumpers...that run from ONE SET of TWO Six Volt Batteries.  Assuming you have a 2 Bank set.  
• Now you have FOUR "Batteries".  Lets say..  Channel 1 Battery goes to Chassis 1; Channel 2 to Chassis 2; Channel 3 to House SET 1 (two 6 VDC in series) and Channel 4 to House SET 2.  ALL HOOKED UP.
• NOW, ALL FOUR "Batteries" are being PULSED or Desulfonated....FULL TIME.  That is GREAT.
• The QuadLink works like this.  Battery 1.  Stays connected for 15 Minutes.  The 4 Amp Charger will put out MAX or whatever is needed....If the Battery is fully charged or in the FLOAT MODE....then the QuadLink throttles down to 0.2 AMPS.  That is to MAINTAIN it for 15 Minutes.
• NEXT UP....the QuadLink then switches to Battery 2, 3 and 4.  THUS, every HOUR....a battery gets up to 4 Amps or float or in between...BUT, they are ALL desulfonated.

That's it.  The Founders recommended the PulseTech Defulfonators.  I run three.  ONE for the CHASSIS and TWO for the HOUSE.  They DO add life as the plates do NOT sulfonate up.  Google Battery Desulfonate for more info.  AI will tell you all about it...  LOL.

That's ONE system.  There are others....just UNDERSTAND what they do.  

NOW....a new member recently asked me offline and I recommended that he DISCONNECT and CHARGE from a 120 VAC source.  He did the FOLLOWING.  He disconnected the Big BOY...  on a 2008 or so Dynasty.  He bought TWO of the these....XTREME CHARGER 4 AMPS.  He has FOUR amps CONTINUOUS on each bank and it Defulfonates....  SO TWICE the system.  He turned OFF the Disconnects....and just put the RINGS and Plug on....More than one way to skin the cat...and it cost less.  They are on sale NOW for $70....so $140 for a KIT that will do the same...

https://pulsetech.com/products/xc400-xtreme-charge-4amp-battery-maintainer-charger

 

[folivier]

But what about LiFePO4 batteries?  In my case my coach will not have power available and will get below freezing often so charging my LiFePO4 battery is not practical, and it will be covered. My plan is to disconnect my solar charger, turn off both chassis and coach batteries and hope for the best. 

Edited 20 hours ago by folivier

[cbr046]

13 hours ago, folivier said:

But what about LiFePO4 batteries?  In my case my coach will not have power available and will get below freezing often so charging my LiFePO4 battery is not practical, and it will be covered. My plan is to disconnect my solar charger, turn off both chassis and coach batteries and hope for the best. 

If I understand correctly, LiFePO batteries can be stored but can't be charged below their low temperature.  I COULD BE WRONG!  Plus, some LiFePOs have different low (and high) temperature specs . . . . and some have built-in heaters. 

Depending on where you are (mild freezes to long hard freezes) you can install a "heater" in your battery compartment from something like an incandescent light bulb to a heater similar in the wet bay.  Even a heating pad around the LiFePO . . . . .  It wouldn't take much. 

Worst case scenario is you remove your LiFePO and store it at home. 

- bob

[Tom Cherry]

7 minutes ago, cbr046 said:

If I understand correctly, LiFePO batteries can be stored but can't be charged below their low temperature.  I COULD BE WRONG!  Plus, some LiFePOs have different low (and high) temperature specs . . . . and some have built-in heaters. 

Depending on where you are (mild freezes to long hard freezes) you can install a "heater" in your battery compartment from something like an incandescent light bulb to a heater similar in the wet bay.  Even a heating pad around the LiFePO . . . . .  It wouldn't take much. 

Worst case scenario is you remove your LiFePO and store it at home. 

- bob

PRACTICALLY SPEAKING...

There are "Freeze Protection" Thermostats.  Many of us use them for various functions.  I have one inside my well enclosure.  Only plug it in when a hard, as in below 15 deg, freeze is predicted.  Amazon has them.  Typically, they come on around 35 deg and go off around 40 deg.  These are NOT digital....nor capillary tube controlled, but less than $15.  You MUST have an Incandescent bulb....which, since such are VERBOTTEN, cost more than the Control.  Amazon also has them.  I have a supply of 60 and 100 Watt INCANDESCENT bulbs....and I use a DUAL light fixture...for redundancy.  

Depending on the volume, you can, or COULD, still get Ceiling Fan or Decorator bulb that were lower wattage, but INCANDESCENT.

The Cube Thermostats have TWO outlets.  They plug into a standard 120 VAC receptacle.  Thus, you had a DUAL Gang (Amazon sells them) to the Supply line.  Plug in the charger to one and the Freeze Protection device into the other...then plug in your bulbs.  Easy to make the bulb as you can buy a "wired bulb socket" and put on an AC plug.

Don't know about the SPACE limitations...but, in theory, that is how it is done.  I keep a trouble light in the MH and can plug it in if needed in storage.  Can be either ON or controlled by the Freeze Protection.

If the day time temps stay low....it will be on.

From a practical standpoint, I always winterize.  The ONLY instance I ever had, since 2009, was one winter where the day time highs were in the mid teens.  USUSUAL for NC.  But, I have covered storage (ala Carport) with neighbors on each side.  BUT, I get NO Solar warming during the day.  Thus, the Camelot "SOAKED" for several days.  That meant that each night, the REAL or maybe down to ZERO temperatures were INSIDE the MH.  Cracked the flush valve, which had BEEN WINTERIZED...  simple to replace and the Thetford lady said...IT DOES HAPPEN....just the least amount of water...even though I THOUGHT it was OK.  I air purged then flushed the wand with PINK and FLUSHED several time.

SO...if we anticipate several sub freezing days...I leave on the AquaHot.

Just my experience and thoughts on FREEZE protection...

[cbr046]

Or motorcycle hand warmers.  Some are simple flat heating pads the user installs under the grip, and they are 12V.  Attached to the side of the battery with a freeze protection thermostat it would be perfect solution. 

- bob